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 badvw68
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 posted on August 17th, 2008 at 06:30 AM |
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I'm now commited to the EJ207 STI
I have had the EJ20T since 2005 as it has been sitting under the worki bench. I have been contemplating this now for a long time, and with the body
of the car already being so nice, I was worried about cutting the apron off and opening up the firewall.
Well, I got the grinder out last weekend and started the project. This morning I finally after 3 years have the motor sitting in the car.
I am now going to have to figure out the all the misc. hoses on the motor and the wiring. I am thinking about just calling up OutFront (OutBack)
Motorsports and going with thier wiring kits and ECU's.
My plan is to do everything I can to get the radiator to work in the back of the car, just infront of the engine above the trans. I have some Ideas
and I think it will work.
Now I have to find a radiator that will fit in the area I have alloted, I am thinking about the Jeep Cherokee rad as it is short and wide.
The trans is currently stock, I have full intensions of replacing it shortly after I get the car up and running. I think I will remove the motor
after its running to give it a good cleaning and at the same time, replace the tranny with beefed up Type 1.
I have some pics below of how the DOHC fits with a swingaxle in regards to the body, apron, and fenders.
More to come later, I am not in a big hurry, I as just enjoy tinkering in the garage.
Wish me luck!
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badvw68
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| posted on August 17th, 2008 at 06:32 AM |
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and a few more
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badvw68
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| posted on August 17th, 2008 at 06:36 AM |
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and the last of the pics for today
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555bug
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| posted on August 17th, 2008 at 09:42 AM |
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good luck i'd consider IRS also but that's just me
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boof2332
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| posted on August 23rd, 2008 at 11:22 AM |
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plenty of help on this site...mine was done 3 years ago now...have changed plenty since first installed, so feel free to bounce any ideas you are
unsure of our way.
good luck, looks like you are well on the way.
matt
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ratbug
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| posted on August 23rd, 2008 at 01:50 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by badvw68
Now I have to find a radiator that will fit in the area I have alloted, I am thinking about the Jeep Cherokee rad as it is short and wide.
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Yeah I got the jeep cherokee radiator for that very reason. Its also very thick so has plenty of cooling power. I got the hose connections modified so
they were on the opposite end to what it came with.
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seagull
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| posted on August 23rd, 2008 at 11:10 PM |
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move the o2 sensor to the dump pipe . This will save a rock flicking the wire off
thats a early legacy / liberty motor , These have issues with the lifters . You would be best prior to start to unplug the carck case timing sensor
& the cam sensor , turn the motor over so it gets oil pressure prior to start up . run some oil flush through it as well .
I have one of these in my liberty , keep the oil changes up & they run for ever .
what turbo is on it ?? Vf10 or Vf12
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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hellbugged
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| posted on August 23rd, 2008 at 11:20 PM |
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might find some ideas for the rear mounted radiator here..........
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=66118
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Gibbo
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| posted on August 23rd, 2008 at 11:36 PM |
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nice progress matey, Im thinking of a subaru lump for either the oval or the 57 at the moment. But by the time I have the money I think we will be
using solar panels or space rocks! keep up the good work!
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badvw68
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| posted on August 24th, 2008 at 12:52 PM |
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Thanks for all the positive replies guys!
Matt - I'm sure I will be having lots of questions. Where I live, there isnt a Subi dealer within 1-1.5hrs... so there are not too many Subarus
simply running around.
I feel confident that I can get the radiator and intercooler mounted, the fuel lines and fuel pump installed, but I feel overwhelmed when it comes to
all the vaccuum lines and electrics.... That will be when I
will start asking LOTS of questions..
| Quote: | Originally
posted by seagull
move the o2 sensor to the dump pipe . This will save a rock flicking the wire off
thats a early legacy / liberty motor , These have issues with the lifters . You would be best prior to start to unplug the carck case timing sensor
& the cam sensor , turn the motor over so it gets oil pressure prior to start up . run some oil flush through it as well .
I have one of these in my liberty , keep the oil changes up & they run for ever .
what turbo is on it ?? Vf10 or Vf12
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Seagull, Thanks for the tip on the O2 sensor, makes perfect sense. Yes, you are right, I belive it came out of a Legacy, it is a Jap spec motor -
maybe thats your spec too, I dont know as I am in the States.
I will definately take note to what you are saying about getting oil pressue first. The issue with the lifters - is that something I can put in from
a later EJ20 to solve the problem? I have read a bit on the Subi engines, would this be an open or closed deck? And what kind of hp would this motor
be putting out? I went out and looked on the turbo, but didn't find any marking regarding a VF10 or VF12... Any help?
Those of you running the Subi's in VW's, anything you would do differently? How is the power?
As I continue work, I will be sure to update this thread.
Thanks Guys!
Alden in Illinois, USA
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seagull
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| posted on August 24th, 2008 at 03:52 PM |
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The motor will be ok , subaru did do a call back on these but in fitting wrx heads you need to change the pistions . This motor is a closed deck case
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should motor had come out of an auto legacy it would have a VF10 , manual Vf12 . The markings are on the front of the turbo in board , Get hold of a
TD05H if you can for good power
If you are going after market ecu , yellow top 440 cc injectors . Not sure if you got the water to air cooler for the turbo ?? did you get a pre
intake ?? ( get the stuff & take a photo & post it up
power will be around 150 / 165 hp there abouts
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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JVLRacing
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| posted on August 24th, 2008 at 09:58 PM |
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Head work is the ingredience for these motors to work!Depending on your $$$$s
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jigga
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| posted on August 27th, 2008 at 07:00 PM |
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whats a "rough" figure for this motor into the baja? even just a cost of parts alone. just curious.
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badvw68
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| posted on August 14th, 2009 at 01:00 PM |
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Well......it runs!! I have now driven it around the neighborhood a number of times, but am yet to take it out and really romp on it.. I ended up
calling http://www.outbackmotorsports.com and getting an ECU of theirs, it
has worked great and was easy to hook up. I was able to mount the inetercooleer above the intake, yet still under the hood. Pictures to follow.
Thanks guys, Alden
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trickysimon
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| posted on August 14th, 2009 at 01:05 PM |
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Great news! Can't wait to see some videos and pictures of this!
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Mick058
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| posted on August 14th, 2009 at 01:13 PM |
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videos yes - i cant wait to take mine round the blocks!!!
Congrats mate.
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badvw68
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| posted on August 14th, 2009 at 01:17 PM |
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Here are some misc recent pics....
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badvw68
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| posted on August 14th, 2009 at 01:20 PM |
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more....
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badvw68
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| posted on August 14th, 2009 at 01:21 PM |
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more...
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badvw68
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| posted on August 14th, 2009 at 01:26 PM |
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please dont make fun of the sheetmetal intake I made, it will be updated later with a nice alumunim round intake when I have access to a tig welder
again...................
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badvw68
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| posted on August 14th, 2009 at 01:29 PM |
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Last one.. Hopefully we will have some video's in the future!!!
Just FYI, I love the way this thing sounds with the Magnaflow exhaust... Deep, but not too loud!
I'm stoked!!!! Can t wait to get everything buttoned up so I drive it all the time!
More to come in the future......
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Baja Wes
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| posted on August 14th, 2009 at 10:36 PM |
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Very similar radiator set-up to my Baja.
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badvw68
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 12:37 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Baja Wes
Very similar radiator set-up to my Baja.
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Really?? Any issues in keeping it cool? I have not had it out long enough or on the highway to see how the cooling is..... Any suggestions? I was
thinking of making some "air damns" from below the car and try to direct the air up to the radiator if need be.... Any information would be great!!
Thanks, Alden
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Baja Wes
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 12:05 AM |
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Read this thread, it has heaps of good info
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=44693
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badvw68
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| posted on August 25th, 2009 at 03:42 AM |
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Alright Guys, time for a few videos. Please excuse the poor cell phone video quality..
68 Bug with:
EJ20T Intercooled
Ebay Magnaflow muffler
4.0 Jeep Cherokee Radiator behind the rear seat
Small 205/50/15 Tires, not lowered in the rear, stock subaru oil pan with only about 3" clearance from the ground.
OutFront.com Stinger ECU - Starts great and idles without a problem, but the map that they sent me is wayyyy too rich. I need to go and get a cable
so that I can hook the laptop up to in and lean it out...
Today was the first "real" test drive. I took it out for about 30mins. both in town and on the highway. It never even came close to overheating.
Keep in mind, I didn't have the decklid or apron on, nor did I have the radiator enclosed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=df33knkv9u0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ph1hsye_ew
While I was driving down the road, I reached back and was amazed at the amount of cool air that was coming up from underneath the car just infront of
the radiator.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-a9YkAhj2Vg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vCTQGaLxSo
I am so suprised that you cant hardly hear the BOV, as it is pretty loud.
Alden
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Baja Wes
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| posted on August 25th, 2009 at 07:44 AM |
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Keep an eye on those cam pulleys, I reckon they might touch the body when you gas it and the engine rocks around. The sump is bound to hit the ground
too, but I guess you know that
So do you like the dark side, did it give you a smile when you gave it a squirt?
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missing
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| posted on August 25th, 2009 at 06:19 PM |
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Its looking good mate |
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pete wood
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| posted on August 27th, 2009 at 03:14 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Baja Wes
Keep an eye on those cam pulleys, I reckon they might touch the body when you gas it and the engine rocks around.
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I've found that a staggering amount of dust and moisture can get in there with even a little crack. If you can cover those pulleys back again in
again, I reckon you'll be a lot better off. The timing belts on these motors are not very forgiving and the DOHC motors eat valves if you break the
belt.
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badvw68
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| posted on September 30th, 2009 at 11:34 AM |
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Well, its out with the old and in with the new........
The story goes like this, before I knew anything about the Subaru motors, I had came across my current Subaru motor I have and bought it. Come to find
out with the recent research, it came from an early Legacy and is putting out ~150-165hp as what Seagul mentioned above. Now the I have the car up
and running, it didn't hold a stick to a buggy that I got to ride in with an EJ-20T and I have been on the look out for a newer EJ20T that is packing
a punch!! (The tail tail sign of a lower HP Legacy motor is the plug on coil design that takes 2 bolts. See pictures above)
Well, I came across a 01-02 JDM EJ2O7-T STI Version 7 motor that came out of a WRX STI. For what I've read, it comes from the factory with Forged
internals, an 8,250-8,500rpm red line and 280hp in stock form!!!! Needless to say, I bought it, yet I cant complain about the price, it was pretty
reasonable!!
The motor is currently on its way and I should have it mid next week. I hope to have it running within the next few months, we just sold our house
and am in the middle of relocating which means our schedules are pretty hetic!! Oh ya, I am planning on swaping the motors and having it running
without the wife knowing what Im up to as I haven't told her that I bought another motor.....
So, whats this mean..... I have a nice Legacy EJ20-T motor for sale - lower hp but still respectable (Videos of the motor running are linked above
via youtube) and I also have a nice 1835cc with dual Weber Carbs, all chromed engine tin, alternator all for sale... Please let me know if anyone is
interested!
Attached are a few pictures of the new motor.
Thanks, Alden in Illinois
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Klaus
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| posted on September 30th, 2009 at 12:45 PM |
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whats the specs on the 1835 ie 40's, 44's stock valve heads , cam? thanks oh and $$$
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