| [ Total Views: 18928 | Total Replies: 205 | Thread Id: 78189 ] |
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 bat69
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| posted on August 4th, 2009 at 02:43 PM |
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My 68 BJ/IRS 1916 EFI Twin Plug Race Car. 1st Event
SNEAK PEAK!
Well the build of my new race car is starting to come along now. I thought I would give you a little look.
After a few false starts due to my children being in and out of hospital because of illness and some prick stealing my ute, burning it out and me
having to fork out coin to buy an new one. I now have had some time and saved some MONEY to devote to the new race car.
Phase one was to pull it apart. I completed this a couple of months ago. The shells has been sitting in the shed waiting to be worked on. Well the bug
has got some love and now Im onto phase 2. Roll cage.
I just finished assembling it and Im a little excited so I thought I would show you what it looks like.
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White Knuckle Racing Team
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BeetleJuice
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| posted on August 4th, 2009 at 05:13 PM |
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Nathan,
Are you going to up spec your engine as well?
Regards
Craig
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bat69
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| posted on August 4th, 2009 at 05:48 PM |
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Its going to be an all new car, so why not add a few new mods in the go fast department as well while its apart. 
White Knuckle Racing Team
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colin
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| posted on August 4th, 2009 at 08:11 PM |
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Looking good Nathan,
Can,t wait to see you in it at a hillclimb, maybe if we both get our shit together that will be first round next year.
Cheers Col
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vassy66T1
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| posted on August 4th, 2009 at 08:38 PM |
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Good work Nathan!! Keep it coming. 
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VWCOOL
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| posted on August 4th, 2009 at 08:41 PM |
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Pay your debts, CxxT
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Sides
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| posted on August 5th, 2009 at 08:11 AM |
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Roll cage is lookin cool Nathan... especially having B pillar reinforcements - don't think I've seen that in a Beetle cage before !!!
What sort of side/door bars do you have in it, and will the window winders clear the front legs with the padding on ??? Mine didn't, so ended up
having to go power windows, but I definitely would've preferred normal winders.
Also interested to hear what the your plans are for the go fast department.... esp considering how I know you want to stay under the 2000cc, so it'll
be a hair-dryer free zone !!!
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bat69
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| posted on August 5th, 2009 at 06:51 PM |
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Considering I would like to use the beetle for a mixture of circuit, hillclimb and rally stuff, I thought the B pillar bars were an essential part. It
just adds that extra strength over the the drivers/co drivers head in the case of a roll over, especailly a big speed one. Having had a few big stacks
in rallies I thought Id better add it in.
In relation to door bars. They are just single straight bars running on an angle from the main hoop to the front legs. Winders clear without padding
but wont with. Im not really worried about winding down or up the windows when Im racing it. Go fast bits are only bolt ons and yes, there are no hair
dryers. I like the sound of a roaring N/A car.
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BeetleJuice
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| posted on August 5th, 2009 at 08:01 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bat69
Its going to be an all new car, so why not add a few new mods in the go fast department as well while its apart.
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Be interesting to see the finished product!
Anticipated completion date?
FringeDweller
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reub
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| posted on August 5th, 2009 at 09:36 PM |
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Look forward to seeing the finished product and more video Nathan
Reub
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VWCOOL
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| posted on August 6th, 2009 at 12:57 PM |
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It'll have nice brakes 
Pay your debts, CxxT
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bat69
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| posted on August 6th, 2009 at 05:54 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by BeetleJuice
Anticipated completion date?
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Im still planing to have it ready for the Australian hillclimb championsips in VIC the 1st w/e in November. But like all things they never go to plan
but that is my target date.
Either way I hope to have it on the track for 2010.. More like 2012!
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bat69
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| posted on August 6th, 2009 at 05:55 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by VWCOOL
It'll have nice brakes
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Who do you recommend 
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VWCOOL
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| posted on August 12th, 2009 at 10:50 PM |
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Well, if you were planning lots of really punishing high-speed circuit work, you could choose a set of my vented and slotted front 290mm discs with
the big calliper matched with a set of big 290mm rear discs, or you could choose my smaller 260mm rear discs and big fronts, or standard VW-sized
slotted front discs with a set of the smaller rear discs (slotted) and good pads all round and then, maybe, upgrade you fronts to vented if you need
to. I reckon for hillclimbs, go for slotted standard VW-sized fronts and the smaller 260mm slotted rears for now, so you can 'super-size me' later,
if you need to 
Pay your debts, CxxT
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VDUBXTC
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| posted on August 14th, 2009 at 03:28 AM |
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Loking good Nathan.
Has John done anything with the sports sedan or has that been moved on?
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bat69
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| posted on August 14th, 2009 at 11:35 AM |
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Hey Jase, Thanks for that. Good to see other people thinks its looking good too.
Yeah we still have the sport sedan. Its sitting in the shed waiting to get looked at. Its the next project car after Ive finshed with the sedan. There
will be a shed swap later in the year. We spent a little time on it last year when the oldies moved, bolting a few bits together. We are just at odds
deciding if we turn it into a car dedicated for the strip or keep it for the circuits. We are more leaning towards the strip as we all ready have one
to go around corners.
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VDUBXTC
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 12:01 AM |
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Good to see he didn't sell it. I think you guys should build it for the strip. The way the VW drag scene is growing at the moment, there will be
plenty of opportunities to race it through out the year.
So with the new engine combo are you going down the injection path like durie & cooky , Heath & christine in their garfield bug?
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bat69
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 08:54 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by VDUBXTC
So with the new engine combo are you going down the injection path?
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Not initially, but I may later on down the track. I will use what Ive got first and if I can justify the $ to spend on a new computer I may bolt on my
throttle bodies. I will be running a big pair of thumping IDA or IDF webbers to start with. I love webbers, I can work on them and I know how they
work. To me they are easy. Either way Ive got all options sitting in the shed.
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westi
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 04:51 PM |
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lookin good.
just a quick one about the cage,is the cage finished.
if so ,please don't take this the wrong way,but why would you run a diagonal bar from the floor to the roof on the passenger side, which realy would
be safe for the passenger.or is it left hand hook please feel free to call me an idiot.i don't mind.
cheers
down sharon.
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HappyDaze
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 05:26 PM |
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See 'Getting closer'!
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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bat69
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 07:25 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
lookin good.
just a quick one about the cage,is the cage finished.
if so ,please don't take this the wrong way,but why would you run a diagonal bar from the floor to the roof on the passenger side, which realy would
be safe for the passenger.or is it left hand hook please feel free to call me an idiot.i don't mind.
cheers
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Not taken the wrong way at all and I dont mind the question westi. And no you are not an idiot. Its a good Q.
The reaons for the main hoop diagonal from the floor of driver to roof of passenger (as opposed to the other way)is for extra side impact support for
the driver.
I have always ran in the past the diagonal from top of driver to floor of passenger, but after consultation with bond roll bars (who have built
literally 1000s of cages) I was convinced to run it the other way.
The idea is the car will mostly be run as a single seater with me driving. Running the bar the way it is offers better side impact protection (for me
as a driver) in a big hit by transferring the force and not having the base of the cage (the weakest point as far as side impact goes) from
compressing in and into the drivers compartment.
As explained to me, the reason for the cross bar in the main hoop is to prevent the hoop from folding across/distorting and not folding as apposed to
bending down in in the case of a roll over, hence why Ive added the 'b' pillar supports to give it that extra support.
From my own experience from crashing a couple of cars in the past in the forrest a side impact is where I've needed the most support. Rally cars up
until the mid/late 90's didnt event need cross bars (hey you didnt even need a cage to do a rally) and up until that point I never ran one (cross bar
that is). I had a couple of massive stacks and roll overs in those times (when my youthful experience far out weighed my ability) and I never had the
main hoop distort. I did how ever have a couple of trees play huggy bear with the drivers compartment. Hence why I have made the cage like I have.
I hope that answers your question. I can post a few pictures and give an explanation as best I can on how and why I built the cage if people would
like to see it.
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mactaylor
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 03:44 PM |
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yeah some pics would be great as im in the middle of finnishing my cage and any help or guidence is always welcome regards mac
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 08:57 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by VDUBXTC
So with the new engine combo are you going down the injection path like durie & cooky , Heath & christine in their garfield bug?
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Apparently the new Haltech has launch control..............although that would be cheating if you use it
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 matberry
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 09:46 PM |
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Nice job
I'd give side support to the b hoop with a horizontal bar behind the seat. It doubles as a good point for the shoulder harnesses to mount at the
expense of some more weight and rear access, but the gain in strength is worth it IMO.
m2c.......ka ching
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bat69
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| posted on August 17th, 2009 at 07:06 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
Nice job
I'd give side support to the b hoop with a horizontal bar behind the seat. It doubles as a good point for the shoulder harnesses to mount at the
expense of some more weight and rear access, but the gain in strength is worth it IMO.
m2c.......ka ching
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Hi Mat, Cage already has the hotizontal bar. Its just not in the photos or nor have I weldind in yet due to the very reason you outlined. Its a pain
in the arse to get into the rear while Im still working on it. It will get welded in just before painting.
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hellbugged
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| posted on August 17th, 2009 at 07:11 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig Torrens
Apparently the new Haltech has launch control..............although that would be cheating if you use it
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nice Job Nathan.......got some more pics for us?
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bat69
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| posted on August 26th, 2009 at 10:35 AM |
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After being asked a few times and now having a few minutes to actually post up some pictures with out children interupting I thought I would post
about my roll cage build.
The roll cage build was phase II of the new race car rebuild. I have built a few roll cages in the past so I though I would give this one a go as
well.
The steel Im using is CDW 44.5mm (OD) 2.6mm wall for the whole cage. The reason why Im using this is because its the only steel allowed to be used by
CAM is bascially CDS or CDW or molly.
Im using these diamentions becaase of added strength. The main hoop has to made from 44 x 2.5 and the rest can be made form 38 x 2.5 (CAMS regs). I
thought bugger it and just make the whole cage from 44.5 x 2.6.
I think the extra weight from the thicker OD tube is not an issue when safety is involved. In comparrison the 44mm 2.6mm is 2.7kg a mtr and the 38 x
2.6 is 2.25 kgs a mtr. So in very simple terms its 475g a mtr heavier to use the thinker OD steel. There is nearly 16 mtrs of pipe in the new cage, so
you can do the math at how heavy it all weighs.
MY roll cage buildling skills were taught to me about 15 years ago by a bloke from my car club.(i.e notching etc) I dont profess to be an expert in
the cage buildling depart ment. Not at all. Its just the way I was taught and I love just playing and putting stuff together. The welding of the cage
will be completed by a very good friend from M & J Fabrications here in Newcastle. I dont trust my own welds when it comes to roll cages.
First part of building the cage was getting it bent up. To save some man hours I had the main hoop and front legs constructed by Bond Roll Bars at
Mulgrave in Sydney. They are Australias premier roll cage buildling company having built 1000's of cages (and race cars) for a variety of differnt
vehicles around australia.
The rest of the tube is basically straight (with the exception of a slight bend in the 'b' pillar bar and side bars, so its pretty much mark, cut,
shape, fit and weld for the rest of the cage.
Here is a couple of photos of the main hoop being bent up.
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White Knuckle Racing Team
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bat69
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| posted on August 26th, 2009 at 12:50 PM |
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After that is a matter of placing in the main hoop and marking out where it will go in the car as well has fitting the front legs and marking out
where they will go also.
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White Knuckle Racing Team
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bat69
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| posted on August 26th, 2009 at 12:57 PM |
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When I figured out where the hoop and legs go I marked their positions on the floor. I also mark where the floor plates go
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White Knuckle Racing Team
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bat69
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| posted on August 26th, 2009 at 01:04 PM |
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When the position for the main hoop and legs have been sorted and marked. I then go about drilling/cutting a hole in the floor.
The reason for this is when you the cage is notched together (basically put together), you can lower the cage down through the holes in the floor and
weld the top half of the cage in the hard to get locations against the roof etc.
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