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Author: Subject:  C-Pillar Rust Repairs on Late Model Bug
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posted on January 3rd, 2010 at 10:48 PM
C-Pillar Rust Repairs on Late Model Bug


Am about to embark on the rust repairs to a 76 bug which has the expected rust in the C-pillar around the black plastic air vents on both sides.

Obviously the offending sponge material will all be removed and new metal will replace rusted sections.

Once this has been repaired, what do people do to prevent future rust?
  1. Weld cover plates over vent holes
  2. Put in new vents with seled back side to prevent water entry
  3. POR15 the interior sections
  4. Other


Also, what do people do to re-fill the C-pillar section to prevent reduce noise into the cabin?
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posted on January 3rd, 2010 at 11:27 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by cam070
Am about to embark on the rust repairs to a 76 bug which has the expected rust in the C-pillar around the black plastic air vents on both sides.

Obviously the offending sponge material will all be removed and new metal will replace rusted sections.

Once this has been repaired, what do people do to prevent future rust?
  1. Weld cover plates over vent holes
  2. Put in new vents with sealed back side to prevent water entry
  3. POR15 the interior sections
  4. Other


Also, what do people do to re-fill the C-pillar section to prevent reduce noise into the cabin?


Hi
You can refill the C-pillar with expanding foam...
which will not absorb moisture etc...
Audis and BMWs etc are full of it...

also, If You see a New Mexican beetle... the last models..
and there are a few in Australia..

You will notice the indent is there for the vent...
but no hole etc...

many people smooth over the vent so there is no indication it was there...

You can use POR15 or fish oil etc...

once the old moisture absorbing material is gone ..

then fill with expanding foam...

cheers

LEE





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posted on January 3rd, 2010 at 11:51 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
Quote:
Originally posted by cam070
Am about to embark on the rust repairs to a 76 bug which has the expected rust in the C-pillar around the black plastic air vents on both sides.

Obviously the offending sponge material will all be removed and new metal will replace rusted sections.

Once this has been repaired, what do people do to prevent future rust?
  1. Weld cover plates over vent holes
  2. Put in new vents with sealed back side to prevent water entry
  3. POR15 the interior sections
  4. Other


Also, what do people do to re-fill the C-pillar section to prevent reduce noise into the cabin?


Hi
You can refill the C-pillar with expanding foam...
which will not absorb moisture etc...
Audis and BMWs etc are full of it...

also, If You see a New Mexican beetle... the last models..
and there are a few in Australia..

You will notice the indent is there for the vent...
but no hole etc...

many people smooth over the vent so there is no indication it was there...

You can use POR15 or fish oil etc...

once the old moisture absorbing material is gone ..

then fill with expanding foam...

cheers

LEE




So its OK to replace the vent and you can add a waterproof expanding foam to replace the water friendly VW stuff? Any suggestions of what brand to use from those who have been down this path before?
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posted on January 4th, 2010 at 06:38 AM



do NOT replace the foam

once you cut it open to do the rust repair scrap and dig out all the foam towards the engine compartment as well

you can disolve the residue with some CRC carby cleaner but it will run down inside the car

use Wurth Wax to protect against futher rust

Put up with the noise its not that bad




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posted on January 4th, 2010 at 08:59 AM



Our cabrio has little triangle shaped pillows that stuff up in to the cavity to reduce the noise. It seems to work well. They are made from offcuts of the headliner material with some padding inside it. Each side of the triangle is about 150mm long if that helps.

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posted on January 4th, 2010 at 09:09 AM



Yep, dont put in more foam, and the pillows is what vw did in the earlier cars, before the moisure trapping foam. The problem isn't the actual foam but the condensation that forms inside the roof and runs down the gutterline can't get out. The vent doesn't cause the rust either, so only remove it if you want the smooth look, when prepped, painted and rust proofed properly, you wont have any drama.



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posted on January 5th, 2010 at 12:43 AM



Thanks for all the feedback guys. It all helps!
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posted on January 5th, 2010 at 09:13 PM



you can shoot foam back in there if you like but just make sure its the new closed cell stuff not open cell

open cell is the old stuff that holds water


it actually does make a fair difference to noise/dust/fumes in the cabin, i dug it out of one of my old bugs years back
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posted on February 13th, 2010 at 12:21 AM



I opend my C pillars up from the inside to get rid of the foam. After getting it out and seeing the damage, I would not put more foam back in - open or closed cell. Either would hold condensation against the metal and the nasty rust would come back again from the inside.

I am cleaning as much of this off as I can with a flap disk, welding in new metal and then giving the inside a good treatment and coat with POR15

Without the foam may be noisier, but at least my bug will be pristine!

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posted on February 13th, 2010 at 12:36 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by cam070
Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
Quote:
Originally posted by cam070
Am about to embark on the rust repairs to a 76 bug which has the expected rust in the C-pillar around the black plastic air vents on both sides.

Obviously the offending sponge material will all be removed and new metal will replace rusted sections.

Once this has been repaired, what do people do to prevent future rust?
  1. Weld cover plates over vent holes
  2. Put in new vents with sealed back side to prevent water entry
  3. POR15 the interior sections
  4. Other


Also, what do people do to re-fill the C-pillar section to prevent reduce noise into the cabin?


Hi
You can refill the C-pillar with expanding foam...
which will not absorb moisture etc...
Audis and BMWs etc are full of it...

also, If You see a New Mexican beetle... the last models..
and there are a few in Australia..

You will notice the indent is there for the vent...
but no hole etc...

many people smooth over the vent so there is no indication it was there...

You can use POR15 or fish oil etc...

once the old moisture absorbing material is gone ..

then fill with expanding foam...

cheers

LEE




So its OK to replace the vent and you can add a waterproof expanding foam to replace the water friendly VW stuff? Any suggestions of what brand to use from those who have been down this path before?


Hi
I used heaps of good quality FISH OIL in the inside roof gutters etc.... everywhere... let it dry.. do it again... again..
then finished off with the expanding foam...
the expanding foam is water proof....

just remember how long it took the bad foam to cause rust in beetles....
so , good rust proofing, and expanding foam...
and NO noise and no rust etc....

LEE

IMHO... of course..


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posted on February 13th, 2010 at 01:11 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by German Bug
I opend my C pillars up from the inside to get rid of the foam. After getting it out and seeing the damage, I would not put more foam back in - open or closed cell. Either would hold condensation against the metal and the nasty rust would come back again from the inside.

I am cleaning as much of this off as I can with a flap disk, welding in new metal and then giving the inside a good treatment and coat with POR15

Without the foam may be noisier, but at least my bug will be pristine!


That there is ugly....and one of my next jobs on the list.....I hate rust!
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posted on February 13th, 2010 at 06:56 AM



I Know someone who has no rust in his pillars but to rust prevent it to , He drill a small hole on each side under the gutter where the top of the door sits and sprayed fish oil in it untill it was coming out of the back vents but he is also now going to weld up the holes he drilled and weld up the vents. The vents dont do much anyway and i reccon it looks better without them and also no rust that way. From Dylan
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posted on February 13th, 2010 at 08:33 AM



Hi

Jak Rizzo filled his vents but kept the indent, I think this looks better than completely removing it.

On the A pillar cut the very bottom 1 or 2 mm of it, that lets crap fall straight though and stops rust forming.

Steve
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posted on February 13th, 2010 at 02:36 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by DylanTheDubber
I Know someone who has no rust in his pillars but to rust prevent it to , He drill a small hole on each side under the gutter where the top of the door sits and sprayed fish oil in it untill it was coming out of the back vents but he is also now going to weld up the holes he drilled and weld up the vents. The vents dont do much anyway and i reccon it looks better without them and also no rust that way. From Dylan


I also know of a 1965 custom beetle with small holes drilled in front of top door hinges for fish oil...

I actually poured/sprayed many coats of fish oil into that crevice from inside the boot... then filled it with expanding foam...

LEE

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posted on February 13th, 2010 at 04:10 PM



Lee , Is it realy nessesary that you put a picture of your bug in every post. it would be clogging up the forum a bit and wasting bandwidth. Why dont you just put a picture in your signature.

From dylan
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posted on April 5th, 2010 at 08:16 PM



Guys, does the vent actually serve any purpose on late model bugs or is it purely aesthetic?
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posted on April 5th, 2010 at 08:24 PM



its there for 'flow through' ventilation.



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posted on April 25th, 2010 at 05:50 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Craig Torrens
its there for 'flow through' ventilation.

Could this be solved using pop outs?
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posted on April 25th, 2010 at 05:53 PM



OK started work on C-pillar rust today and dug out this materilas that is carcinogenic to bugs.

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posted on April 25th, 2010 at 06:00 PM



OK now my question, I managed to dig out the spongey crap that I could access via the engine bay, but I noticed a slot where it seems to go down behind the wheel well. How do I access that area to get the rest of the spongey crap out? See image for more details.

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posted on April 26th, 2010 at 11:59 AM



You might be able to get at it from behind the trim panel inside.
When I did mine I cut a access hatch on the inside of the c-pillar where there is a ~15mm hole. You would have to remove the hood lining to see it.






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