| [ Total Views: 2428 | Total Replies: 25 | Thread Id: 84709 ] |
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 crock
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 03:57 PM |
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pushrod tube seals
need some adv on some pushrod tube and seals also on changing the front main seal pulley end do i need to remove the eng also i was thinking about
fitting a set of scat adj pushrod tubes thanks crock
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 Bizarre
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:01 PM |
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Type 1??
Heads need to come off to do push rod seals.
I have never had good luck with the spring type adjustable ones.
I have used the screw type to some degree of success
There is no seal at the pulley end.
It is an oil slinger on the crank
If you are leaking there you have way too much pressure in the crank
Futue te ipsum!!!
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crock
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:08 PM |
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what is the cause of to much pres my oil pres cold is 45 hot about 30
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68AutoBug
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 posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:13 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by crock
need some adv on some pushrod tube and seals also on changing the front main seal pulley end do i need to remove the eng also i was thinking about
fitting a set of scat adj pushrod tubes thanks crock
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THE ENGINE has to be removed to replace the front engine seal
the original type of push rod tubes are recommended...
they are made like they are to help cool the oil as it goes thru them...
the adjustable ones don't do this...
just make sure You use gasket cement on both sides of the seals
and use silicone seals...
You can reuse pushrod tubes by carefully stretching them a few mms each end.. so they will be tensioned when fitted..
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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68AutoBug
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:16 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by crock
what is the cause of to much pres my oil pres cold is 45 hot about 30
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oil pressure in a cold engine [cold thick oil] is very high..
the oil pressure relief valve keeps the pressure down until the oil gets hot and thinner...
the oil then goes thru the oil cooler etc...
I have heard of many metal oil filters/oil coolers being blown apart by the oil pressure in VW engines in the USA..
the relief valve needs to be working correctly....
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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crock
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:23 PM |
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what oil pre shoud i have the eng is a2180 type 1
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Bizarre
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:30 PM |
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what breather set up do you have??
A big motor like that needs to breath
Futue te ipsum!!!
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crock
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:33 PM |
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i have breather pipes from tappet covers plus the main engine filling breather all going to a central breather.
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hellbugged
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:35 PM |
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crank case pressure
Do you have a breather system hooked up that allows the case to vent pressure, or better still vacumn to the carb(s)
Yes if you dont want to pull the heads adjustable tubes will be your only solution
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crock
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:44 PM |
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the engine has twin 44 webbers should i run the standard pipe at the filler to the top of the air cleaner. should this make a difference? .. i have
noticed oil droplets coming out the bottom of the original breather tube cheers.
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hellbugged
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 05:14 PM |
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yeah okay, i would close that one off with a late filler that doesnt have it
Imagine the crank and cam flying trough the oil in the engine its going to mist to a certain extent as well as build pressure....the idea is to not
only relieve that pressure but separate the oil from the air too
All lines should be self draining via gravity to the sump direction and yes vacumn to the breather box you have will add to the capacity to relieve so
long as the box is also baffled to separate the oil from the air
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hellbugged
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 05:22 PM |
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flick up some pics, they will help to no end
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crock
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 05:31 PM |
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the breather box is mounted above the gear box 3 lines in tappets and oil filler and 1 out should i tee in and pipe to the top of the air cleaner to
help with the vacume
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crock
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 05:35 PM |
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shit iam 47 and just learning to type how do i do the photos
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Bizarre
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 08:26 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by crock
shit iam 47 and just learning to type how do i do the photos
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HAH! 47..... spring chicken!!
I have a few years on ya
Read here
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=79671&page=1#pid741291
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=46683&page=1#pid435469
or email the pics to me at barry.agnew7@gmail.com
Futue te ipsum!!!
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matberry
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 09:23 PM |
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Pulley end can also be aftermarket pulley being too small od at the oil scroll, but crank pressure must be relieved. Generally I don't recommend
venting to air filters, they will provide minimal vacume and the oil fumes greatly reduce octane. Get a better breather, the small common aftermarket
ones always leak oil, they are not big enough, they hold about 10mm of iol inside that doesn't drain back so it leaks, the foam filter disentergrates
quickly too.
As for pushrod tubes, the good quality ones are JC or Scat, even Empi have a rip of the JC that is reasonable, they must be the ones with the internal
2 or 3 Orings and spring loaded to deal with the expansion and contraction of the engine.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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hellbugged
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| posted on July 9th, 2010 at 09:36 PM |
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yeah matt hard to stick all the info up when stuck on this bloody phone for the net
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vlad01
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| posted on July 10th, 2010 at 09:24 AM |
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haha spring chicken. whats that make me then? an embryo?
anyway I am thinking you should benefit from a catch can.
Its similar to a breather box but more can shaped and likely bigger. They work in a similar ways but with an addition of an oil return.
So basically the breather line run to it. The baffles condense the mist back into liquid and it all collects at the bottom where is drains back into
the sump via a return line (can must be above engine ).
Just as the breather box has a breather vent so does the catch can, which can be run either filter vent, to intake or a vacuum pump.
Vlad
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Bizarre
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| posted on July 10th, 2010 at 09:35 AM |
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Crock
have a read here
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=118958&highlight=
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Futue te ipsum!!!
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crock
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| posted on July 11th, 2010 at 01:07 PM |
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thanks for all of your replies A LOT TO PONDER OVER its alot different to my old 62 1200 beetle once i learn how to post some photos i will show you
my 71 beast Also i am in the prosses of a body of restro 71 beetle quite a bit of rust heat channels door pillers front and rear wheel arches front
strut holders ect but i am enjoing the challenge cheers crock
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Newt
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| posted on September 15th, 2010 at 12:34 AM |
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Guys, Im curious, Ive not used gasket goo on the pushrod tube seals. Is this a common practice over east?
Cheers
Newt
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on September 15th, 2010 at 01:52 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Newt
Guys, Im curious, Ive not used gasket goo on the pushrod tube seals. Is this a common practice over east?
Cheers
Newt
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I wouldn't put in pushrod tube seals without using permatex no3 gasket cement on them...
if the seals crack the cement stops them from leaking...
a lot of cheap seals about these days...
make sure You get silicon seals...
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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matberry
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| posted on September 15th, 2010 at 08:01 AM |
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I use good quality seals (the slipery feeling ones) and no goo........lucky we're not all the same it'd be boring.....hey Lee?
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Smiley
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| posted on September 15th, 2010 at 11:33 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 68AutoBug
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Newt
Guys, Im curious, Ive not used gasket goo on the pushrod tube seals. Is this a common practice over east?
Cheers
Newt
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I wouldn't put in pushrod tube seals without using permatex no3 gasket cement on them...
if the seals crack the cement stops them from leaking...
a lot of cheap seals about these days...
make sure You get silicon seals...
LEE
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If it got to the point of the seals cracking wouldn't they be old and need replacing anyway?
So a small amount of oil leaking as a telltale would be a good thing so you know to replace the seals.
That's just my opinion.
Smiley 
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bajachris88
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| posted on September 15th, 2010 at 12:37 PM |
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For a 'forced induction' setup... the breather lines would be after the blower, to pressurise the crankcase right? (reduce blow by etc. etc.)... Or
is that something that only the modern engines can handle (i've seen it on a few ricers thats all... pressurised from after the blower into the
rocker cover breather on a few I4's...
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
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waveman1500
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| posted on September 15th, 2010 at 12:51 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
For a 'forced induction' setup... the breather lines would be after the blower, to pressurise the crankcase right? (reduce blow by etc. etc.)... Or
is that something that only the modern engines can handle (i've seen it on a few ricers thats all... pressurised from after the blower into the
rocker cover breather on a few I4's...
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Dear lord no! You want the lowest pressure possible in the crankcase, a lot of race cars even run dedicated crankcase vacuum pumps and will pull
several psi of vacuum in the crankcase to make it easier for the reciprocating assembly to cut through the air/oil mist. That's a bit extreme for
normal engines though, in general you just want to reduce your crankcase pressure to atmospheric pressure. If high pressure was desired then engines
wouldn't have breathers at all, as blow-by past the rings is enough to pressurise the crankcase somewhat, especially in tired engines. Piston rings
seal by being forced against the bore by the cylinder pressure above them, pressurising the crankcase would not reduce blow-by.
On the subject of breathers and venting to air cleaners, the only reason that factory setups on old cars vent the crankcase gases to the air cleaner
is because they were running oil-bath air cleaners, so any extra oil blowing into the intake is caught by the air filter element and drains into the
oil bath. If you vent the crankcase into the inside of a paper air cleaner, you are bypassing the filter element and thus there is nothing to catch
your oil mist before it is sucked through the carb and into the engine, which is bad for performance and engine cleanliness. This is what catch cans
and other types of oil/air separation devices are for, they essentially do the same job as the old oil bath air cleaner, but they are external so you
can run your paper air cleaner instead.
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