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 General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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 posted on September 12th, 2010 at 08:44 AM |
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Finally taking the plunge
G'day.
Hold on to your seats. This isn't a help request thread!
I'm in the process of purchasing / organising shipment of an EA81 conversion.
yes it's old. So? It's dead easy to fit because of the lack of electronics, plus it's within 15% capacity of the original motor so no engineers
cert needed. Things are looking up.
I know it seems weird. My type4 has high compression, blows no smoke and has good oil pressure but I know something is a bit off in the top end and
will take me a lot of time and $ to get it right. Besides I don't want to live constantly in fear of dropped intake seats.
The EA81 will be mated to the early 3 rib 1600 box which is already in there. So it will have a terminal velocity of maybe a shade over 120km/h not
that I'd want to take a type 2 up to that speed anyway.
I'm planning on putting a three way switch in the cabin for the thermo fan. Regulated, off and on. Regulated would be the normal mode. Off would be
for river crossings and similar and on... well why not?
The rad is going to be underneath. That is until I manage to destroy it. I'll probably end up with one mounted behind my roo bar eventually.
I'm thinking of pinching the holley progressive from the VW engine. Although I am also considering finding an old bellhousing and making a setup so I
can work on and repair the VW motor, in which case nicking the carb would be a pain.
I think the motor has a standard sump. This concerns me a tiny bit. I don't know how far below the crank the EA81 sump protrudes.
This is about as close to excited as I get. i want that motor here now.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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 matberry
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 09:23 AM |
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Crikey.....good luck.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Bizarre
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 10:40 AM |
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I am suprised that converting from air cooled to water cooled doesnt involve an engineers certificate regardless of capacity
Whatever - good luck
Futue te ipsum!!!
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 11:17 AM |
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It does in NSW
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
I am suprised that converting from air cooled to water cooled doesnt involve an engineers certificate regardless of capacity
Whatever - good luck
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 11:28 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
It does in NSW
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
I am suprised that converting from air cooled to water cooled doesnt involve an engineers certificate regardless of capacity
Whatever - good luck
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Not necessarily.
| Quote: | VSI Chapter
6"
...
Examples of minor (owner certified) modifications are:
Engine changes where the capacity increase is less than 15% above the maximum size engine available for the
vehicle (providing no major structural modifications are necessary and where noise and/or exhaust emission
ADRs apply, all standard equipment such as carburettors, exhaust systems, exhaust gas recirculating valves,
oxygen sensors and catalytic convertors relating to noise and emission control are retained and operate
correctly).
...
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If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 11:34 AM |
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| Quote: | | Quote: | Originally
posted by General_Failure
| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
It does in NSW
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
I am suprised that converting from air cooled to water cooled doesnt involve an engineers certificate regardless of capacity
Whatever - good luck
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Not necessarily.
[quote="VSI Chapter 6"]
...
Examples of minor (owner certified) modifications are:
Engine changes where the capacity increase is less than 15% above the maximum size engine available for the
vehicle (providing no major structural modifications are necessary and where noise and/or exhaust emission
ADRs apply, all standard equipment such as carburettors, exhaust systems, exhaust gas recirculating valves,
oxygen sensors and catalytic convertors relating to noise and emission control are retained and operate
correctly).
...
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they mean a larger vw engine capacity .
shit in NSW you are supposed to tell the Rta if you even paint your car a different colour
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General_Failure
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 12:23 PM |
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Telling the RTA and getting an engineers are two very different things though.
I can imagine the conversation with the engineer. Especially if I were asked what was altered to make it all fit, and I just say "Uh... nothing
actually." It seems weird in one way, needing certification for a motor which has nearly identical hp, torque, weight and cylinder layout which
doesn;t involve any mods.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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pete wood
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 12:44 PM |
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You need an engineers certificate. once the motor is from a different manufacturer, you need one. I know it seems silly, but they are the rules.
Otherwise your insurance is void and the car is illegally modified. That's why people put chevs in holdens, same manufacturer.
everything else you plan sounds good. BTW, shortening the sump is not that hard. Boof and a few others have just cut 40mm or so off and put a new bit
of 3-4mm sheet on the bottom of EJ sumps. I imagine the EA sump wouldn't be too different. You need to shorten the pick up a little too. If you are
not confident to weld it have a welder or plumber weld it up for you.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 01:00 PM |
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a weighbridge ticket
a exhaust db test
a engineers report
etc
its not a problem, like you said its not much of a change.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 01:01 PM |
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What about Victoria?
The nearest engineer is about 250km away 
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 01:11 PM |
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good luck.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 01:37 PM |
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...maybe some things should be left unsaid.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 03:32 PM |
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Now I'm really thinking. What would work out better for me. Getting the heads recon'd on the type4 and hoping for the best because the bottom end is
in unknown condition, or going for a subie conversion and all it entails, with a motor which is a little worn, and trying to swing sn engineers
somehow.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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matberry
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 06:19 PM |
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Fix the type 4.
Better any day than the EA81 IMO
If your worried about valve seats, get a better head repairer and don't overheat your air cooled engine....easy.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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 helbus
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 06:39 PM |
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I can tell you now that in Vic it will be an $800 engineering cost. The motor is not what the vehicle came out with. I deal with engineering on cars
on a weekly basis. An example is.
EH Holden 1964 change from a 179ci red motor to a 202ci red motor. Same engine except capacity - VicRoads no accept, engineers report needed.
XR Falcon ute was 200ci. They were available in this bodystyle in later years in up to 351ci. - Needs engineers report to change rego papers to V8 to
show compliance to V8 brakes.
In my opinion, you either set the type 4 up well, or go for at least EJ series Suby motor. With EJ The engineering will cost the same, and the
radiator has to be done too.
You say you have a 1600 box! Have you thought of a strong Type 1? Pobjoy etc?
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rocknrob
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 06:45 PM |
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I thought you were taking the plunge? heheh bit hard to unplunge...i certainly wouldn't bother for an EA81
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Fastie
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 08:51 PM |
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You will also have to pass a brake test - which more than likely means vented brakes.
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Bizarre
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| posted on September 12th, 2010 at 09:06 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Fastie
You will also have to pass a brake test - which more than likely means vented brakes.
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Its an EA 81
I doubt it would need a brake upgrade
Futue te ipsum!!!
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 13th, 2010 at 09:30 AM |
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have you driven a subaru with that motor??
they wouldn't pull a maggot off of a chop.
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Joel
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| posted on September 13th, 2010 at 09:43 AM |
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And a type4 1800 can?
I always thought EA81 were a waste of time too, just a vw motor with a radiator thrown in
that was till i had a ride in gordons yellow bug
everyone who knows gordon knows what he drives like
to see the abuse that engine took and how well it pulled with 4 people in and those big offroad tyres impressed me
That said i still wouldnt instal one but for someone who doesnt want the hassle off ECU wiring its not a bad option
not like its the first EA81 kombi conversion, they were everywhere in the early90s
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Fastie
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| posted on September 13th, 2010 at 04:56 PM |
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If you need a engineers certificate on engine conversion then they do a brake fade test and our standard brakes fail.
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pete wood
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| posted on September 13th, 2010 at 07:16 PM |
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A lot of guys are running much bigger motor than 1800cc, like 3.8l for instance on stock bay brakes. If you really get a rush of blood you can fit
late bay brakes or commode brakes. Brendan at Production automotive does a kit for the commode stuff that is all engineered. But really, they are well
braked standard for a 70s car. So don't stress, it will pass with stock brakes. I have drums and small front discs on my buggy and it passed fine.
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rocknrob
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| posted on September 13th, 2010 at 07:18 PM |
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yeah you will need a set of these...i would never want stanard brakes again no matter what engine i had
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helbus
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| posted on September 13th, 2010 at 07:21 PM |
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Late bay bus brakes passed the brake test easily with EJ22 conversion. Done it.
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rocknrob
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| posted on September 13th, 2010 at 08:16 PM |
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mmmm running brakes designed in the 70's with an engine from the 90's on freeways of the 2010's...and yours is not a camper Pete...factor in an
extra 1000 kilos...
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pete wood
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| posted on September 13th, 2010 at 09:06 PM |
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Rob, my brakes are late 70s vintage at best and work very well. Brakes are about weight and VW designed a reasonable system for the bay. I know people
who have run V8s and blown V6s in bays with stock brakes and no legal dramas...
So let me say again what I always say. Start calling engineers and talking to them. They are wise blokes with sensible ideas. A kombi with a 1.8
carbie motor, heck even a 140hp 2.2l is the least of their worries. Many of them are engineering 900kg hotrods with blown big blocks. General failure,
you have nothing to worry about.
p.s. Rob, red paint doesn't make it stop faster. it makes it go faster! 
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Fastie
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| posted on September 13th, 2010 at 09:13 PM |
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My experience is from talking to my engineer last week. His justification is that even the most basic of Jappa cars have vented discs now for the
reason of safety. If you are going to convert then it isn't a matter of can you stop - but can you stop over and over again without fading your
brakes - and the 70s setup wont cut it.
This could just be my engineer though - and perhaps Victorian rules over other states perhaps?
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on September 13th, 2010 at 10:54 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Fastie
My experience is from talking to my engineer last week. His justification is that even the most basic of Jappa cars have vented discs now for the
reason of safety. If you are going to convert then it isn't a matter of can you stop - but can you stop over and over again without fading your
brakes - and the 70s setup wont cut it.
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I agree.
What I find ironic is the arguement used for converting to a Subaru motor is the fact that it is "new generation" and "latest technology", yet its
deemed acceptable by the same people to use 30-40 year old brake component design and setups.....go figure.
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seagull
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| posted on September 13th, 2010 at 11:32 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by rocknrob
yeah you will need a set of these...i would never want stanard brakes again no matter what engine i had
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I lovbe how you make do with whats close to you at the time
two rims, and a few bits of timber to hold the car up !
neat brakes mate
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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seagull
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| posted on September 13th, 2010 at 11:33 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by General_Failure
G'day.
Hold on to your seats. This isn't a help request thread!
I'm in the process of purchasing / organising shipment of an EA81 conversion.
yes it's old. So? It's dead easy to fit because of the lack of electronics, plus it's within 15% capacity of the original motor so no engineers
cert needed. Things are looking up.
I know it seems weird. My type4 has high compression, blows no smoke and has good oil pressure but I know something is a bit off in the top end and
will take me a lot of time and $ to get it right. Besides I don't want to live constantly in fear of dropped intake seats.
The EA81 will be mated to the early 3 rib 1600 box which is already in there. So it will have a terminal velocity of maybe a shade over 120km/h not
that I'd want to take a type 2 up to that speed anyway.
I'm planning on putting a three way switch in the cabin for the thermo fan. Regulated, off and on. Regulated would be the normal mode. Off would be
for river crossings and similar and on... well why not?
The rad is going to be underneath. That is until I manage to destroy it. I'll probably end up with one mounted behind my roo bar eventually.
I'm thinking of pinching the holley progressive from the VW engine. Although I am also considering finding an old bellhousing and making a setup so I
can work on and repair the VW motor, in which case nicking the carb would be a pain.
I think the motor has a standard sump. This concerns me a tiny bit. I don't know how far below the crank the EA81 sump protrudes.
This is about as close to excited as I get. i want that motor here now.
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if you go water cooled subaru, its worth the effort to put a better / later motor in the car.
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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