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Author: Subject:  tuning question
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posted on February 27th, 2011 at 12:22 PM
tuning question


Need to tune engine after hit in rear. It is backfiring something horrid and am having trouble getting enough power. It wouldn't let me run more than 100 meters before no power. Pulley has 2 markings on it. It is a 1600TP. I have a timing light but that is all.
Really need to get car running untill I can get it to mechanic or a proper tune.
Thanks.




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posted on February 27th, 2011 at 12:41 PM



check your exhaust for leaks with the back firing issue.



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posted on February 27th, 2011 at 12:46 PM



a hit in the rear should put it out of tune

I am guessing you now have a hole in the exhaust




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posted on February 27th, 2011 at 12:48 PM



Hey Barls,
Definitely leaking due to the hit. I has caused collapse in some of the tubing. I have an original set of headers ut need to make up some pipeware to a muffler for it. But how do I get the timing and fuel mixture correct?
I know i have to rotate dizzy but which marking do I use as a guide with the join of the case?




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posted on February 27th, 2011 at 02:45 PM



Depends on what pulley you have, there are different markings on different pulleys, also different settings for different distributers. Take some pics of your set up or search Samba tech



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posted on February 27th, 2011 at 03:16 PM



Matt,
I'm pretty sure carb is a solex 34.

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posted on February 27th, 2011 at 04:28 PM



That pulley I think has 0* and 10* markings. To be sure, normally the 0* mark has a shallow scallop marking alongside on the outer rim. Since it looks loke a 009 distributer, I'd start at 10* BTDC (rh mark) but most importantly check full advance by revving the engine to around 3000rpm and noting where the advance stops on the pulley. It should be 30* total BTDC. There is a measurement for this that someone may help with, my timing light has an advance feature and so I don't use that method.
Carb, well thats another story. First set the fast idle lever adjustment (the one on the long lever that hits the choke cam) this is set to just touch the cam when in the operating position so as to not let the butterfly bind in the body/thoat of the carb. Then with the engine running and the ignition timing set, the idle speed is adjusted at the large screw on the lhs, then mixture is the small one under the air bleed, re check/set idle speed and then mixture again and should be good for a test drive.....assuming the dreaded flatspot has already been sorted.......but that's another story.




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posted on February 27th, 2011 at 07:45 PM



If you exhaust is collapsed that could be causing your problem or at least contributing to it.

Too much restriction in the exhaust will cause the motor to stall under load, just like when someone puts a potato up the tailpipe.

Post some pics of the exhaust.
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posted on February 28th, 2011 at 07:14 AM



I have the same pulley on my setup. Line the right-hand mark up with the engine case. If you use the left-hand mark it will leave you under-powered. Also check that you're fuel cut-off solenoid is working, as this can cause the car to shut off after a short run. Also set your carb back to default settings by screwing in the two mixture screws all the way in, and then unscrewing out 2 and a half turns out. That should get it running. As long as there a no major air leaks.
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posted on February 28th, 2011 at 09:29 PM



Car ran ok today for a short run. Timing is as good as I can get it with a S!~44y timing light. Fuel will need to wait till weekend. Still backfiring so deefinitely probs with exhaust. Just waiting for a ggod backfire to blow the cannons off!:lol:
Thanks for help again guys!




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posted on March 9th, 2011 at 09:15 PM



Sorry but need more advice. Pulled off exhausts and there were no holes but was missing a nut from a stud so exhaust was defineatly leaking. Once fixed backfire was reduced but still happening. Any other suggestions, please?



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posted on March 9th, 2011 at 09:43 PM



Did you replace the gasket, did the flange get bent, maybe 2 gaskets will help if the flange is not flat any longer. Otherwise an inlet manifold leak making the engine run lean or just the carb out of tune.



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posted on March 10th, 2011 at 11:26 AM



Thanks Matt. Didn't think about the gaskets they are a little old but still together. Quite possibly carby running lean as I have no way of checking that other than getting a mechanic to adjust it.
Just remembered their was an inlet manifold leak that I had to tape up to get home safely. Found fuel leaking from it. Forgot to fix that one.




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posted on March 19th, 2011 at 12:36 PM



Need some advice again. Was driving and Al was running fine till engine just stopped. Turned over fine but wouldn't start. Fuel seemed to be leaking from inlet manifold rubber boot. After about 10-15 minutes it started as if nothing went wrong. Any ideas as to what I should be checking.



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posted on March 19th, 2011 at 01:07 PM



stuck needle in your carb and flooding



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