| [ Total Views: 2369 | Total Replies: 11 | Thread Id: 90614 ] |
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 rob53
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| posted on May 24th, 2011 at 10:36 AM |
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Advice on ISO-Free 2Pak
Hi All,
I'm interested in trying out painting with 2Pak at home (small stuff at this stage). Now I know the original 2Pak paints with cynates were a big no
no without respirator, air extractor and etc.
But is it safe to do with the newer ISO free 2Pak paints? (Ie I'll still wear a mask, but don't have any other equipment)
Thanks
Rob
Thats not rust, it's ah ... orange primer ... yep that's what it is ...
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on May 24th, 2011 at 11:00 AM |
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HI, i just bought a mask and besides the horrible $140 to get the mask and all the seperate filters... i think that is all you need mainly? And to
remove some of the air
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rob53
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| posted on May 26th, 2011 at 10:19 AM |
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Bugger sounds expensive! I looked at the prices for 2pak and got a shock! 
Thats not rust, it's ah ... orange primer ... yep that's what it is ...
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cesiumfrog
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| posted on May 26th, 2011 at 11:00 AM |
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great paint..easy and safe to use if you have done a little spray painting before.
i choose to paint on days when their is slight air movement and position everything so that any overspray is drawn away from me
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rob53
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| posted on May 26th, 2011 at 02:45 PM |
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I've used acrylic for a while so I'm hoping that's enough experience to get started in 2k. Are there any special handling procedures (safety wise)
as well, apart from common sense?
Thats not rust, it's ah ... orange primer ... yep that's what it is ...
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grinderman
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| posted on May 26th, 2011 at 08:05 PM |
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If you have experience in acrylic you will be fine but just take it easy as far as volume of material is concerned. Have a crack at the inside of your
bonnet or doors for starters. The gloss off the gun is light years ahead of acrylic but if you had to paint your car outside I'd still use acrylic. I
have done a couple of resprays under my house which is a LONG way off being a dust free enviroment, but after a good colorsand (1500-2000 wet and dry)
the 2 pac clear come up mirror finish. My health and safety innerself  set up an old bathroom ceiling fan hanging from a bit of string and it worked quite well at sucking out some of the cyanide..ah..sorry...fumes out
of the area,and on to the neighbours washing.... Oh and one more bit of advice when doing the whole car, you can never have enough light. The only
time I get any runs is when you cant see the spray pattern properly so do what I do and grab all the bedside lamps and dodgy old flouro's from
wherever you can get em. When your a painter you dont worry too much about getting the stuff on your hands but I do like to wash my hands before going
to the toilet OOHHHH IT BURNS ...
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cesiumfrog
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| posted on May 26th, 2011 at 09:58 PM |
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x2 what grinderman says.
plenty of light, don't hurry to much especially with larger areas, break it down into smallest parts
measure ratios exactly(you can get little measuring cups that have the ratios marked on the side)
don't use more thinner than specified- adjust your air to get the best finish/lay down? of paint
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rob53
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| posted on May 27th, 2011 at 10:14 AM |
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Great advice, thanks guys. I'm planning to paint bits of engine tinware first and see how it goes. Afterwards probably 2k high build primer.
Thats not rust, it's ah ... orange primer ... yep that's what it is ...
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5PL1TDCS10N
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| posted on May 27th, 2011 at 08:03 PM |
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Gun setup is essential in getting a good finish as well. Check correct air pressure and fluid tip size etc.
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Sunset Garage
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| posted on May 27th, 2011 at 08:57 PM |
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A really good gravity feed HVLP gun, (like a Sata jet or copy) with a 1.4 setup, can spray 2k very well at low pressure, which I would recommend if
you have no booth. Wind your trigger adjustment in about a third of the way to limit the paint which comes out. That way you can do a few coats at
once, like acrylic laquer (if you're good) It's called a double header, and almost always causes runs in 2k without the heat of the booth, without
taking time to set the gun up.
Don't be fooled, even the newer 2K paints are pretty gosh darn toxic. I'd be trying to make friends with a local smash repairer and seeing if you
can persuade them to let you hire their booth. Maybe even just bringing the workers a case of beer may get a foot in the door.
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rob53
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| posted on May 28th, 2011 at 02:03 PM |
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I already have a half decent gravity fed HVLP spray gun, branded as toolex but not idea of what it really is. I'll try the tip with adjusting the
gun.
Thats not rust, it's ah ... orange primer ... yep that's what it is ...
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Lucky Phil
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| posted on August 4th, 2011 at 08:18 PM |
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I just tried EPOTEK from protec which is a 2pac epoxy primer (non isocyanate) and it was fabulous! Sticks like s%#^ to a blanket.
Just remember to rub it down before it fully goes off or you will be there for months.
Gravity feed is the ONLY way to go. Do yourself a favour and dump all suction feed guns like I did.
I bought 1 Gravity feed gun for about $120.00 and it's the only one I use now.
Get yourself a bottle of spraygun lube while you are there. Its essential to keep things working AOK.
As for 2pac, well I don't know about you, but inhaling cyanide just doesn't sound like something I want to do. I think i will stick to acrylic.
Lord knows it's toxic enough as it is.
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