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 Kanarienvogel
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| posted on July 29th, 2011 at 09:55 PM |
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Got the Fasty home, after some advice now
Picked up my '70 Fastback last night after 8 Months of searching for a car that fitted my liking. Will be fixing a lot of minor things over the next
few months so that'll keep me busy. After that I want to start upgrading the brakes to discs all round and work on the suspension. The grand plan is
to eventually replace the engine with a decent Subaru unit so want to have the running gear ready by then.
I have a mechanical background, so not afraid of modifications. Ultimately I want the car to drive and handle a bit more like a modern car, but still
to look like what we all love about the type 3. So I'm not into cannibalising the exterior look, needs to be subtle and neat.
Will appreciate advice on which components to best use;
1) Rotors (prefer 5-stud and avoid adaptors) which will fit?
2) Calipers to suit, which can easily be adapted?
3) Suspension upgrades
4) Master cylinder etc
5) Should I go for a Subaru NA engine or a turbo? I'm a bit weary of the additional heat generated by a turbo engine in a not so well ventilated
rear-mount engine bay. Like to hear from people that know.
I intend to fit braided lines for all flexible brake lines.
Obviously everything comes at a price, and I'm happy to spend a few $$, but not going to throw massive amounts of money at it. Total budget limit for
the engine conversion and brakes/suspension and some interior work would be about $10K, but that would be over a few years.
All comments welcome and I'll take some pics this weekend and post up.
Cheers,
Maarten
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Fastie
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| posted on July 29th, 2011 at 10:29 PM |
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I'm doing the same conversion right now. Just upgraded my brakes to the VWCOOL kit sold by Glenn torrens on this site. It is 290mm DBA rotors front
with Holden VS calipers and 270 rear rotors with ea falcon calipers and Porsche 5 stud - it stops beautifully. I've got a ej20t ready to go in and
the Kennedy adapter for vw box, which you will also need to upgrade to handle the torque. Loads of info in the non vw conversion section - have a
cruise through it.
Brakes - don't buy a cheap kit. There is a guy selling Porsche kit in parts section.. Consider it.
$ - you'll spend that budget but that is about right
Braided lines - no real advantage there just firmer pedal.
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Kanarienvogel
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| posted on July 30th, 2011 at 05:36 PM |
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Thanks for the advice, I'll have a look soon at those brakes. Cool that you are doing the same, have you got any photos posted somewhere? Be
interested in what you have done and your progress.
Took a few photos today. Also had to remove the steering column as the ignition barrel wouldn't turn properly. I'm not happy with how the steering
column is mounted to the dash, so the first job will be to fabricate a new mounting bracket to ensure that the whole assembly will be a bit more
rigid. There is a limit of 3 photo's so will have to post some more.
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Kanarienvogel
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| posted on July 30th, 2011 at 05:47 PM |
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Overall the car is in reasonable condition. The only real rust that is visible is the left door pillar that will have to be replaced. There might be
more once the guards are off, but it looks like the guards were all removed when the car was painted. The wheel arches feel quite new on the inside of
the guards so they were either in very good condition, or replaced with new. The interior will need a fair bit of work, but for the time being it will
have to do as I want to start on the door pillar and the mechanicals first.
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vlad01
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| posted on July 30th, 2011 at 07:03 PM |
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What the F! what the hell is that that on the last pic?
If that is rust under the paint !? never ceases to amaze me where rust can be found on a type 3
Pretty nice fasty I hope.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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zocstar
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| posted on July 30th, 2011 at 07:31 PM |
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looks real good (apart from the last pic that looks a bit concerning?)
if you want to dump more photos, just photobucket or a sight like that.
good luck with the plans look forward to see it down the track.
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vlad01
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| posted on July 30th, 2011 at 09:05 PM |
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you know I still have most of that section sitting the shed plus the door hinge brackets. I'll check it to see if I didn't hack it too much.
If you need them let me know.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Fastie
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| posted on July 30th, 2011 at 09:09 PM |
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Yeah I would start lifting the carpets too for a quick squiz. Rust loves to hang around the heater vents on the floor. Also are you sure it is a
70? Mine is a 70 but has a early dash and yours seems to have a 71/72 interior. Perhaps it is a late 70.
Yeah progress is slow at the mo. I've got the engine all ready to go, brakes are installed and a gearbox ordered - just have to start piecing the
puzzle together. I have pics but no build thread as such.
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Fastie
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| posted on July 30th, 2011 at 09:11 PM |
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A bit of rear disc poking out
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Fastie
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| posted on July 30th, 2011 at 09:13 PM |
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Vented fronts with the Holden setup.
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cam070
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| posted on July 30th, 2011 at 11:05 PM |
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A couple of nice fasty's guys
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vlad01
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| posted on July 31st, 2011 at 09:13 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Fastie
Vented fronts with the Holden setup.
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Nice I will be getting a set of those latter on this year.
I have now determined (still waiting) Bert3 drop spindles will except this kit and actually increases the clearance around the bottom balljoint. Only
problem is I have to move the steering arm up by about 5mm and will most likely lose the use of a speedo cable.
But heck, I never planed on using a speedo cable anyway. 
oh and btw his model is a 70. you can tell by the front firewall. Buts its weird as the brake fluid res is in the 71+ position and the inner guard has
a spring latch as from 71+
This car has been played with I recon.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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L469
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| posted on July 31st, 2011 at 10:03 AM |
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from what you have shown that has been cut and shut possibly through front door pillars
the inner guard in the pic has the bracket for the bonnet hinges on 71 models but the fire wall has the original
torsion hinge . some that i have seen take the front inner guard with sill and join them were your car is rusting
and under the rear guard or part way through the sill .maybe smash repair from the past if only 1 side check the spot welds along the bottom of the
sill for any smooth spots . spot weld should be present the whole length of the sill .check the door striker area and bellow for any uneven lumps
bellow the lock for the door 
looks overall a nice car
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Fastie
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| posted on July 31st, 2011 at 10:43 AM |
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Yeah mate, as long as it's straight now nothing to be concerned with, nice car and interesting colour.
Vlad, I'd be sending the drop spindles to GT for measure before order as they are such big calipers that there is only a mm or 2 on all sides for
clearance.
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Kanarienvogel
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| posted on July 31st, 2011 at 11:05 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by L469
from what you have shown that has been cut and shut possibly through front door pillars
the inner guard in the pic has the bracket for the bonnet hinges on 71 models but the fire wall has the original
torsion hinge . some that i have seen take the front inner guard with sill and join them were your car is rusting
and under the rear guard or part way through the sill .maybe smash repair from the past if only 1 side check the spot welds along the bottom of the
sill for any smooth spots . spot weld should be present the whole length of the sill .check the door striker area and bellow for any uneven lumps
bellow the lock for the door
looks overall a nice car
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Thanx for the tips all, makes it a lot easier for me as I haven't had a lot of exposure to older VW's. Will check some of that today.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
you know I still have most of that section sitting the shed plus the door hinge brackets. I'll check it to see if I didn't hack it too much.
If you need them let me know.
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Would love to take up your offer Vlad, that'll be awesome! Send me a pm on how much you want for it and your address. I'm in Gisborne every second
week and regularly in Castlemaine.
Hey Fastie,
That's a cool car you've got, love what I can see of it! I have been thinking of fitting early type skinny bumpers on mine. Nice colour and wheels.
Where do you live?
I have checked the floor pans and everywhere under the carpets. No major rust anywhere, except for the front passenger side a little, but very minor.
AVWPC in Croydon did the roadworthy on it and repaired it, but need to have a good look at it today as I haven't had time yet.
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vlad01
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| posted on July 31st, 2011 at 07:21 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Fastie
Yeah mate, as long as it's straight now nothing to be concerned with, nice car and interesting colour.
Vlad, I'd be sending the drop spindles to GT for measure before order as they are such big calipers that there is only a mm or 2 on all sides for
clearance.
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Yeah I already have been talking to him and informing him of the whole spindle development.
I got dimension of both the spindles and the rotors. Bought some VN v8 calipers, made up a mock up rotor and measured everything carefully. It fits
and like I said more space at the lower ball joint then what is on the standard spindle.
Only problem is the upper caliper lug interferes with the upper rear mounting hole of the steering arm by 5 mm or so.
I will send to him after I get them.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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vlad01
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| posted on July 31st, 2011 at 07:26 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Kanarienvogel
| Quote: | Originally
posted by L469
from what you have shown that has been cut and shut possibly through front door pillars
the inner guard in the pic has the bracket for the bonnet hinges on 71 models but the fire wall has the original
torsion hinge . some that i have seen take the front inner guard with sill and join them were your car is rusting
and under the rear guard or part way through the sill .maybe smash repair from the past if only 1 side check the spot welds along the bottom of the
sill for any smooth spots . spot weld should be present the whole length of the sill .check the door striker area and bellow for any uneven lumps
bellow the lock for the door
looks overall a nice car
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Thanx for the tips all, makes it a lot easier for me as I haven't had a lot of exposure to older VW's. Will check some of that today.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
you know I still have most of that section sitting the shed plus the door hinge brackets. I'll check it to see if I didn't hack it too much.
If you need them let me know.
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Would love to take up your offer Vlad, that'll be awesome! Send me a pm on how much you want for it and your address. I'm in Gisborne every second
week and regularly in Castlemaine.
Hey Fastie,
That's a cool car you've got, love what I can see of it! I have been thinking of fitting early type skinny bumpers on mine. Nice colour and wheels.
Where do you live?
I have checked the floor pans and everywhere under the carpets. No major rust anywhere, except for the front passenger side a little, but very minor.
AVWPC in Croydon did the roadworthy on it and repaired it, but need to have a good look at it today as I haven't had time yet.
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I got it and had a look. its 80% ? of that pillar with the hinges cut out. I don't know if it will be usable for you.
I had them sitting on the scrap pile as I though it was vertually imposible to rust this area out. Lol your car proved that wrong.
You can have it for free  I will get some photos tomorrow night.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Kanarienvogel
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| posted on August 1st, 2011 at 06:53 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by L469
from what you have shown that has been cut and shut possibly through front door pillars
the inner guard in the pic has the bracket for the bonnet hinges on 71 models but the fire wall has the original
torsion hinge . some that i have seen take the front inner guard with sill and join them were your car is rusting
and under the rear guard or part way through the sill .maybe smash repair from the past if only 1 side check the spot welds along the bottom of the
sill for any smooth spots . spot weld should be present the whole length of the sill .check the door striker area and bellow for any uneven lumps
bellow the lock for the door
looks overall a nice car
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Thanx.
Checked the sills and all spotwelds are there on both sides and doesn't look like there has been any welding done in the door striker area either.
The base paint of the front inner guards is a different colour than at the rear of the car. Maybe the inner guards have been replaced at some
time?!
I checked the rear bench backrest and that looks like not original as it has release locks on it to fold forward (50/50 split), whilst the car body
doesn't have the pins to lock the backrests into. Maybe someone has tried to make the car look like a later model in it's early days? I'm not too
fussed as eventually I'll re-do or replace the interior properly, with something I like.
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Kanarienvogel
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| posted on August 1st, 2011 at 06:56 PM |
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| Quote: | I got it and had a
look. its 80% ? of that pillar with the hinges cut out. I don't know if it will be usable for you.
I had them sitting on the scrap pile as I though it was vertually imposible to rust this area out. Lol your car proved that wrong.
You can have it for free I will get some photos tomorrow night.
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Photo's would be great, and thanx for the offer, very generous!
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Type3Sicko
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| posted on August 20th, 2011 at 07:30 PM |
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Bloody hell! That's a sweet fasty mate, good score, rust aside you have done well, look forward to progress pics.
How many is enough?
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