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Author: Subject:  Alternator conversion. What is required?
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posted on August 13th, 2011 at 03:09 PM
Alternator conversion. What is required?


I am looking at putting an ALternator into the baja.

What is required for a conversion? Obviously the Alt has a built in Regulator.

Does the backing plate need to be replaced?

What will be the new arrangement of wiring?

Anyone used this kit?

Part No
75-AMP-KIT

Description
New 12-Volt Chrome 75AMP Alternator conversion kit


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posted on August 13th, 2011 at 03:17 PM



Hey!

I just bought the 55AMP Kit, from what I can tell it'll just bolt straight on...
I'll find out when I get it. ;)




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posted on August 13th, 2011 at 03:50 PM



not knowing what the kit come with ill try to answer, when changing from gen to alternator you will need a new stand as the alternator will not fit the genny stand.

the wiring is very easy its just a simple case of reconnecting when the reg has been removed.

From memory (been a while so i mite be wrong) every conversion i have done has a new baking plate with it that i have always used, is it the same as the genni one i dont know....

steff...................




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posted on August 13th, 2011 at 03:58 PM



I bought this one -> https://www.classicveedub.com.au/cvd_new/part_detail.aspx?parts_id=14625 

Will I have to remove my current external regulator? From what I can read though, my kit doesn't have an internal regulator so mine should, hopefully, be a straight bolt on kit.

:)




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posted on August 13th, 2011 at 04:00 PM



Kit comes with a Belt, Pulley, Stand, Clamp, Backing plate, Alternator. Unfortunatly it is a chrome kit. I would much prefer a raw or black finish.

Will i need a new Fuel pump? I have the rebuildable kind atm.

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posted on August 13th, 2011 at 04:07 PM



Turns out you can buy the parts seperately to avoid cheap Taiwan Chrome and come out cheaper.

263.96 including a pump and rod as opposed to 259.99 for the chrome kit not including the pump and rod

I think i know which ill choose. :)




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posted on August 13th, 2011 at 04:10 PM



I'm aiming to strip the chrome off mine and hopefully paint something a little brighter!

Will I need a new fuel pump as well? :l




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posted on August 13th, 2011 at 05:34 PM



The other thing that you have to watch out for is if the fuel pump linkage on the side of your carby is going to hit.

I had an alternator that I installed into my Baja and when I upgraded from a PIC28 carby to a PICT31 or 34 the linkage hit. Required some clearancing with the die grinder.



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posted on August 13th, 2011 at 06:28 PM



So in other words I'm most likely going to have to grab a new fuel pump linkage.

Unless of course, my engine originally had an alternator, albeit I don't know what year a 1500sp would have had an alternator, did it ever?

:)




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posted on August 13th, 2011 at 07:07 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by SebastienPeek
So in other words I'm most likely going to have to grab a new fuel pump linkage.

Unless of course, my engine originally had an alternator, albeit I don't know what year a 1500sp would have had an alternator, did it ever?

:)


The fuel pump linkage is a part of your carburetor. You can't change or modify it because you will alter the amount of fuel it squirts when depressed. Hence why I modified my alternator. You might also have to buy a different main fuel pump. Most places sell a slightly different one for clearance. I had no issues with the old fuel pump but clearance was very close.


Here are some pictures of what I had to do.

Here is a picture of the carby and alternator before I ground the housing. You can see the fuel pump linkage. It is sticking out of the lower right had side of the carby. The pump rod attaches to this and runs towards to front of the carb. When you depress the accelerator this linkage rotates backwards and down, straight into the alternator housing.


http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/ad172/smileyman1968/Alyce%20the%20Baja/P1030795.jpg


The next picture is looking down from above. You can see the section I ground out to clear the linkage.

This picture also shows how close the top of the fuel pump and alternator are, they are almost touching.


http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/ad172/smileyman1968/Alyce%20the%20Baja/P1030851.jpg


I don't know if you will have any of these issues whatsoever, I'm just sharing the problems I encountered. Engine was a single port so that might of been part of the issues with the centre flange on the manifold not being far enough to the left. I think that the twinport stuff is different and there's plenty of room between carby and alternator.



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posted on August 13th, 2011 at 07:20 PM



Well, this is my current generator and carb clearance.
Do you think I'll definitely have an issue?

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/SebastienPeek/IMG_0018.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/SebastienPeek/IMG_0019.jpg

I just want to make sure that everything is going to be okay. I've been informed that my alternator kit is on its way, very exciting times indeed!




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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 12:23 AM



Looking at your picture. I would say you're more than likely going to have contact. The alternator is fatter than a generator. Just mock it up when your kit arrives and see how it is.



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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 12:41 AM



Will do kind sir!

I figured it was going to touch, but really don't want to start grinding away at the alternator. I might have to just replace the whole engine.

Wonder if anyone has any 1600tp that they are willing to sell for a carton of beer :P




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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 08:46 AM



You can buy a spacer which goes between your carb and manifold, which raises your carb to clear the alternator. I may have a spare one or you can buy one.
http://www.justkampersaustralia.com/shop/carburettor-spacer-34-pict-j16928.html
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 08:48 AM



These carbs specifically say they will fir both. http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=Carb+Alt&Search1=Search 
Seems there is some change to the carbs.
Then they sell a spacer to allow the old carb with an alternator, so it’s a common issue. http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C26-127-021 
Blurb says “This spacer fits between your stock 34 Pict carburettor and manifold to raise the carb. and give added clearance between the alternator and carburettor body. With an alternator conversion, the accelerator pump linkage can hit the alternator. This is when you will need this spacer.” I don’t know much about it, just remember seeing this, may be helpful?
Tony




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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 09:26 AM



You're in luck Sebastien, that's a carb from an alternator car, and has the alternator version linkage that doesn't hit.

BTW, looks like time for a new belt too if you don't swap soon, that one is badly worn down.

Nick, just try the alternator with your fuel pump before you go buying another.

I've had one of the old bolt together pumps on one of my bugs with an alternator.
It's close but still a few MM away, but that was a factory Bosch alternator, not an aftermarket one.
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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 09:33 AM



Epicness Joel,
Best news I've heard! :D

Hmm, they replaced my belt about 2000km's ago, but she really does need to be timed since the bigger load on the engine...




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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 09:57 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
I've had one of the old bolt together pumps on one of my bugs with an alternator.
It's close but still a few MM away, but that was a factory Bosch alternator, not an aftermarket one.


My bolt together fuel pump just clears my 75amp alternator as well. :-)




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posted on August 14th, 2011 at 01:58 PM



Good News



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