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Author: Subject:  The last Hellbug
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posted on November 18th, 2008 at 08:43 PM



yes JVL, anytime

along to the bridge and up the hill on the otherside......found the timing down a couple of degrees and a lack of full throttle when i got home as i felt it was lacking some top end while filming this one..........anyways, it will do for now, good fun

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/th_M2U01292.jpg
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posted on November 19th, 2008 at 05:02 AM



this one is again undulating road with some long sweepers, a right angle, then up the hill to yet another rickety bridge............going fast enough by the time i get to fifth, so i'm not asking for anything of it by then

these types of roads are everywhere along my daily travelings :tu:

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/th_M2U01293.jpg
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posted on November 19th, 2008 at 06:54 AM



the ol' bus run hey Daimo!!



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posted on November 19th, 2008 at 04:20 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by hellbugged
this one is again undulating road with some long sweepers, a right angle, then up the hill to yet another rickety bridge............going fast enough by the time i get to fifth, so i'm not asking for anything of it by then

these types of roads are everywhere along my daily travelings :tu:

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/th_M2U01293.jpg


Nice vid...I particularly like the drivers wiper flopping up and down. But seriously it sounds really tight. I bet you could drive it a lot harder. How about some of that Ken Block action like in the hangers eh?

:punk:

Yes, that's right, I want SKIDS! BIG SKIDS! :lol:




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posted on December 25th, 2008 at 06:02 PM



yeah, not yet Pete, line locker, 27mm torsions and kafer bar still sit in the parts fridge

DOH!!!!!!!!!!

emptying out the box of foam packing "chips", what should fall out?.......the two rubber mounts that would have completed the picture for the factory nose cone mount:blush:..........it never made sense that the "5 speed" mid mount would have rubber side mounts, yet solid on the front section..........makes sense that would never have been the case coming from the bergs

anyways, the addition cured the virbrations i was getting at certain rpm/road speeds after the "kombi" rubbers settled in over the first couple of weeks.......live and learn....idiot.

easy fix with a NOS chassis front mount welded in place

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/21122008Medium.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/21122008003Medium.jpg

the bigger story tho is the results........

hard daily driving: fuel economy up 11 %

free way cruising: fuel better 20% PLUS!

i'm getting to 100 km/h 70 meters before i was before when merging onto the highway

and engine temps remain stable below 100 deg.

(interestingly the hoodjax makes more difference when driving hard in the lower four gears,with temperatures rising quicker than with the standard ratios..... but has similar results post 5 speed on the highway, when it only becomes a necessity on the hotter ambient temperature days.........)

for all but the steeper hills, i cruise in fifth gear EVERYWHERE with the torque of the 1776 surprising to say the least (thanx to Jeff for the advice on the GB 309 cam)........mostly overtaking is also done in top, happy days!

5 speeds, an absolute pleasure to drive with the chosen ratios and truely the best of both worlds!
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posted on December 26th, 2008 at 08:21 AM



Merry Christmas Happy Camper;)



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posted on February 7th, 2009 at 10:01 AM



Looks a lot easier then going the porsche box option.
Nice job there. I like the roll cage you have in your bug, Are they available for the public to buy or did you get it custom made?




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posted on February 7th, 2009 at 10:27 AM



Nice job Damo. Great to see and read about it. The vids are sweet too. Love that reving aircooled sound:tu:



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posted on February 13th, 2009 at 08:18 AM



dam that sounds nice, such a tight sounding car, great vids. mmmmm to have 5 gears :fakesniff:



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posted on February 13th, 2009 at 11:28 AM



Looks good, 5 gears seems very tempting :D

Where can I get a pair of those rear caliper mounts?
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posted on February 13th, 2009 at 11:40 AM



sounds great
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posted on February 13th, 2009 at 11:43 AM



Just been reading through this again and watching videos. How stuffin good is that 5th gear, love it :smilegrin:

You must be one happy camper.

Kev




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posted on February 16th, 2009 at 10:05 AM



thanx everyone........didn't notice the new comments for a while.

yep, pictures say a thousand words..........vids say even more!

here's one from Valla show 2008, pre 5 speed......it has a little hesitation out of a couple of corners where it drops 1 or 2 cylinders because of too high float levels in the carbs causing flooding (i think :dork:)........

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/th_M2U01242.jpg

oh and i like this one, you can hear it coming and it aint stopping for nothing!:crazy:........not even the corner ahead

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/th_127d8408.jpg


Jen...rollcage is old "bonds", pain in the backside for daily chores, but it's nice to have it when racing.

Cam...rear brakes are modified EA falcon, i sent you a pm about them

Reubs,Boozo, Grogy and Camo........yes the fifth is great, but the first four gears are phenominal:yes:. it was a huge commitment to go the five speed and i would reccomend building and running the engine first as if i had i not known where the power and tourque was delivered from the engine, it could have ended very pear shaped with that .82 top...........the little screamer holds the fifth very very well, however another 300 rpm taller, and the tourque would not have been available at the cruising RPM........YUCK!!.........however, it's all happy days as it did turn out just right

sounds good and tight yes!!!........however the noise was becoming a little too much for some and a new muffler was added just hours after a visit from a well dressed man of authority with a fancy car carrying equally fancy lights on the roof:D...........it was on the to do list after my friends started saying they could hear me, quite litterally from kilometers away:no:.

turned out fine with a "magnaflow" stainless muff sitting on the shelf at a mates......it says on the box "no chambers, no baffles, no louvers, no restrictions!!!".........it's not quiet, but loads better, 2.5 inch I.D.......PHAT!

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/P1020955Medium.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/P1020934Medium.jpg

on other fronts, i've over come a couple of niggling problems........the coil doesn't mind frying dizzy caps and the end of the coil lead was litterally disintergrated!, a green sludge that was formally copper welcomed me when it was popped off the dizzy end......and the clutch peddal hook broke off which had me cringing each flat change with no clutch operation at all, got up and down through all five gears a few times with out a scrape tho, which was actually a lot of fun............it did get me motivated to protect the $$$ in the box as best i could from there in, so the "washington anti shocker" was finally set up.

a job that just didn't look like fun, but turned out very easy........and best of all it works!!!......a slight clunk sensation that could be heard and felt on hard changes is now gone, i can dump the clutch as quick as possible and it's always smooth.

it really only slows the operation for the last poofteenth of travel, so it was important to have the set up of free play just right, then the anti shocker is adjusted against the clutch arm so it is .020 from bottoming out in the engaged position.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/P1020964Medium.jpg

OPEN.........

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/P1020965Medium.jpg

some say it's in the blood, they may well be right!!! this one is a terror, menace, DV8, fun loveing cheeky little ball of energy. she is into everything @ 13 months!

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/P1020969Medium.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/P1020973Medium.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/P1020966Medium.jpg
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posted on February 17th, 2009 at 04:01 PM



another run at Valla with my mate.........can't wait to try this again with the close ratios and no flooding holding the car back out of the corners :no:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQFgnmyoC48 
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posted on February 17th, 2009 at 04:18 PM



:tu::yes:



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posted on February 17th, 2009 at 05:42 PM



The Washington anti-shocker ... where did you come by this Daimo? Great idea but never heard or even thought of it.



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posted on February 17th, 2009 at 05:57 PM



http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/IM000262Small.jpg

http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?name=Wheelie%20Bars,%20Anti-shocker,%20Drag%2...

from the berg site.....


Stock VW Beetles are quite reliable in their stock form when they are driven accordingly. However, when the horsepower is increased, and/or the vehicle is subjected to abusive starts and/or power shifting, breakage often occurs. Parts subjected to the highest shock loads which are most prone to breakage are: axles, CV joints, ring and pinions, first gears, and flywheels coming loose, even when all of the proper strength components and building techniques are utilized.
The primary reason that these parts break, is not always just more horsepower, but excessive shock. Whenever the clutch is engaged fast or slammed shut, this shock travels through all of the drive components. The most common situation in which this occurs, is starting out fast in first gear (such as a drag race start). The engine speed is increased to a high RPM and the clutch is engaged as rapidly as possible. When the clutch slams closed and locks up, a large torque peak (shock load) is created which greatly increases stress on all parts. This drag racing type of driving is lots of fun, but it sure is hard on the drive train.
These shock loads are transmitted through the clutch, then 1st gear, spider gears, ring and pinion, CV joints or axles to the tire and will also be transmitted back through the flywheel and crankshaft when full lock up occurs. For street driving with rubber mounts, the parts will withstand some of this type of abuse. However, it will eventually find the weakest link in the chain and that one will fail if you continue to treat it this way.
Generally speaking, when any clutch stronger than stock is used, the shock load to the drive train is increased. One reason for this is because stronger clutches will normally have a narrower working range and engage faster and harder.
The clutch spring diaphragm is also much stronger and will slam closed with much greater speed. Likewise, when a disc that is designed to lock up without slippage is used in a race application, even with a stock pressure plate, the shock is increased in the system. Of course, stronger clutches are required for modified engines that put out more horsepower and torque than a standard stock engine. Which one to use is something your parts suppliers should have a great deal of experience with in order to assist you with the proper choice.
Many people have attempted to reduce breakage by installing a Cush Lok fabric disc that slips each time it is engaged. Unfortunately, there is no way to ever control this slippage. It changes from run to run and the pressure plate and flywheel distort badly from this slipping. Some would slip too much and not even last for one run and another might last for one race. It is impossible to be consistent with the car, and consistency is required to win races. In fact, any combination that cannot be reliably engaged time after time should not be considered for any application where dependability is important.
Don't despair, there is a way to use stronger clutches that engage properly without slipping and will also reduce parts breakage for drag racing. The general idea is to control the speed of closure of a strong enough pressure plate and/or 3 puck disc, to close at the exact rate to have it hook up properly. However, you do not want it to slam closed so fast and hard that it causes breakage. In other words, a clutch engagement shock reducer.
The "Washington Anti Shocker" (™) is an adjustable hydraulic shock absorber. It is about the size of a small cigar, and it mounts on the driver's side of the car, right on the transmission. It is held in place with the upper engine attaching bolt. It contacts the clutch arm. It must have the pressure plate properly adjusted, as in our pressure plate instructions. So the arm is back in its proper operating location and any forging flash must be removed so you have a flat, square surface for the Anti Shocker to contact. The clutch engagement shock reducer is adjustable from zero to maximum shock reduction affect. A numbered dial is on the device, which enables precise adjustment. It is locked in place with a set screw

The following is how it works. When the clutch is engaged and the engine speed is closely matched to the car speed and chosen gear, there is no shock load. If there is a large difference in engine and car speed, such as speed shifting or engaging the clutch fast when the car is standing still (drag race start), at the exact moment the clutch disc locks up, there is a shock peak that is astronomical. If this peak is high enough, it will break parts right away. If the peak is slightly less, parts might break in 100 clutch engagements. If the shock peak is low enough, maybe nothing will ever break.
If the torque shock peak concept is difficult to understand, imagine letting your clutch out slower. Obviously the shock load is less. However, trying to control a fast clutch engagement reliably (so that parts won't break), in racing situations consistently, is impossible. The "Washington Anti Shocker" (™) adds only a few imperceptible milliseconds to the clutch engagement time to greatly reduce the torque shock peak. Because this device only controls the engagement of the clutch and not the disengagement, like most hydraulic devices, it is undetectable to most users and there is no perceptible slipping or difference in the way the clutch works. The clutch handles just as much horsepower with it installed as it does without it. Testing so far has shown no reduction in the life of the clutch. It is reliable and works the same, time after time. On a drag race car, consistent time slips within .01 or .02 second reaction times were still maintained.

This part was developed and tested for a 1969 IRS drag racing sedan that runs in the high elevens at the drag strip. Needless to say the CV joint flange (spider gear) often broke. At the start it did not break parts but as years went by, the car got faster, and more, and more parts broke. One year the car was taken to the track four times and couldn't even make one run as the CV joints or spider gears kept breaking. After the "Washington Anti Shocker" (™) was installed, it didn't break any parts for four years, even after hundreds of runs. It works on swingaxle or IRS, vehicles alike. However, it requires the 1967 and later straight clutch arm on the transaxle and that our copyrighted instructions are followed.


Be clear that the "Washington Anti Shocker" (™) will not reduce parts breaking due to the rear wheels getting off the ground, speeding up, coming down, and suddenly grabbing. It will also not stop breakage on cars that have the rear wheels spinning in a stationary location and suddenly grab or suffer from wheel hop. It’s function is to stop breakage from severe clutch engagements.
It has been used with great success. We get reports from purchasers of the "Washington Anti Shocker" (™) with miraculous results and the sheer joy of being able to consistently hook their car up without breakage. Many claim the investment has saved them enormous amounts of money normally spent on slipper clutches or broken parts, not even counting all of the work and lost races. Our thanks to you for letting us know and to Howard Washington for the great idea and years of testing
.








search for em on the samba........they were are berg item that's no longer available, but they come up from time to time in the for sales and i did find details for someone supplying them new during a search a while back........

i can help with a template for the mount and instructions if need be as they are often sold without them
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posted on February 17th, 2009 at 11:18 PM



Daimo, I have an anti shocker, but no mount plate. Could you copy your template for me please?



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posted on February 25th, 2009 at 02:27 PM



it's clear that you are finally ready for some big skids. so come one! :smilegrin:

VIDS!!!!! :smirk:




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posted on April 19th, 2009 at 04:45 PM



wow wow wow what can i say just effn awesome



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posted on April 19th, 2009 at 05:21 PM



That anti shocker is a good idea............what are they worth $$



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posted on April 19th, 2009 at 06:04 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
Daimo, I have an anti shocker, but no mount plate. Could you copy your template for me please?


what he said.
Matt if there is any chance of you knocking out and extra for me then I would happily cover any costs and then some, hopefully make the building of yours cheaper at the same time.

let me know....




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posted on April 19th, 2009 at 06:18 PM



yeah, ill get onto the template asap..........

Craig, around US$100 find them on "the samba".......bergs no longer stock them, but NOS pop up from time to time.......i'll check with Dee if she still has the mount plates around in the next few days.....

thanx Kroozzn........just a thread i did as i went really.....i'm sure others take the same time and care too..........

why do these boxes keep arriving on my doorstep with HALTECH written on them :yes: ........we're not done yet :tu:
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posted on April 19th, 2009 at 07:46 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Golde60
Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
Daimo, I have an anti shocker, but no mount plate. Could you copy your template for me please?


what he said.
Matt if there is any chance of you knocking out and extra for me then I would happily cover any costs and then some, hopefully make the building of yours cheaper at the same time.

let me know....


No prob Golde......soon as Daimo finds his round tuit.:lol:




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posted on April 20th, 2009 at 10:11 AM



Daimo,
Could you please tell me where I might purchase "clinkerite". I live in Brisbane but if you purchased the material from a retail chain I should be able to get the gasket material form a local supplier.

Alan:?:
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posted on April 20th, 2009 at 10:15 AM



Alan,it just fell out of a cupboard here........that may not even be it's name coming from Jeff :smirk:........yes i wish i could find more too, it's far superior to anything i have found since :td:....sorry can't help at this stage

i think the round tuit is still under the floodwater guys, sorry.
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posted on April 20th, 2009 at 02:56 PM



Daimo

Thanks anyway. A friend told me about it and said it was great - so it stands to reason that it may not be made anymore!. I did find another one caled Manifoldite (stocked at Repco). Don't know what it is like though.

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posted on April 21st, 2009 at 10:06 AM



damo, I'm still waiting for vids of big skids! are you chicken or something? :smilegrin:



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posted on April 21st, 2009 at 04:38 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by pete wood
damo, I'm still waiting for vids of big skids! are you chicken or something? :smilegrin:


i haven't forgotten Pete........still no kafer bars, too much squat till bigger torsions go in and lacking line locker..............blah blah
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Registered: March 7th, 2006
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Location: Cooroy Qld
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posted on April 21st, 2009 at 09:11 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by hellbugged
and lacking line locker..............blah blah


Thought at least that would be in by now :lol:




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