| [ Total Views: 3236 | Total Replies: 93 | Thread Id: 100629 ] |
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 Bizarre
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 03:34 PM |
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25 degrees full advance?
Seems short for my 2 c
Would have thought it needs at least another 5
Futue te ipsum!!!
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 Lateral
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 03:38 PM |
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so what would that big sensor be for???
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sander288
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 03:44 PM |
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25 deg? All in?
Normally somewhere between 28-32 deg ALL in is ideal for type 1 engines. I have mine set at 29.5 once fully advanced.
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Lateral
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 03:47 PM |
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So what should the timing be set at for a streetable driver?
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hellbugged
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 03:48 PM |
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 .....yep those are the pics i was after.
Figured it wasnt there from your temp PDF believe it or not, just wanted confirmation.
Fix that and you'll be fine I suspect.
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Bizarre
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 03:51 PM |
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A degree before it pings
I would go to 30 for starters
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Lateral
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 04:03 PM |
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Just to confirm that I did NOT unplug the vacuum hose from the ECU...should I have?
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Sides
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 04:13 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Lateral
I have attached a photo of the missing pieces you mention...is it # 3 in the photo?
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Yep - that's the bit we're talkin about. Like Daimo says, the constantly rising temps were a bit of a giveaway.
I wouldn't go searching for new tinware just yet - that single missing piece is likely to be your main problem.
Timing at 30'ish degrees at 3500 rpm with steady throttle is what you want... vacuum to the ECU shouldn't make a big difference since on steady
throttle.
In fact suspect if you disconnect that you won't be able to get 3000 rp - can't see a TPS (throttle sensor) in the pics of the throttle body so
suspect it's tuned on MAP, so no vacuum line == no throttle.
What's the link to the build thread ?
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hellbugged
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 04:15 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
cars not normally have oil temp sensor for the ECU.????
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and you also need the 1600 tinware that goes along the back of motor. the vent sits init to push the air out the bottom.
.
you could mount coil on fire wall.
i still think youll have to open lid a bit to let extra air in.
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Yes but water pumpers have stacks of water to take temps from for the ECU to work from Ian 
In pics from build thread it is the correct rear seal tin with cut out painted up ready to go
Yep coil has to be evicted........
Such a shame such a flashy car has ended up ignoring very basic VW principles........the previous owner that had nothing but dissapointment could have
had a reliable fun car
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 04:21 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by hellbugged
| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
cars not normally have oil temp sensor for the ECU.????
.
and you also need the 1600 tinware that goes along the back of motor. the vent sits init to push the air out the bottom.
.
you could mount coil on fire wall.
i still think youll have to open lid a bit to let extra air in.
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Yes but water pumpers have stacks of water to take temps from for the ECU to work from Ian
In pics from build thread it is the correct rear seal tin with cut out painted up ready to go
Yep coil has to be evicted........
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whats the one in the head for ??
VWs are just my hobby as i am a car enthusiast.
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Sides
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 04:22 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Sides
What's the link to the build thread ?
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Scrub that - found it.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=64212&page=1
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
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hellbugged
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 04:29 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
whats the one in the head for ??
VWs are just my hobby as i am a car enthusiast.
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Sheeez I cant even see that one  
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Lateral
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 04:34 PM |
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Thanks guys, 30 degrees it is!
Yeah, I think the original aim of the car was to build a show car but I may be wrong.
My aim is to fix things so that it can be used as a daily driver and driven from here to Melbourne without any stress if needed.
Dave, my plan is to go to the Dyno first and get everything checked and then pull the engine out and refit everything and any missing pieces.
Who is the best place to go for some good tinware?
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hellbugged
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 04:46 PM |
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Dyno at custom bug and buses in penrith !
Best to get original tinwear and clean/ paint it up. Try vintage vee dub. As per "SIDES" that one piece will make all the difference and can be
fitted with motor in situ provided you can get the coil out of the way first.
For me I would do that then head to CBB to see how the tune comes up......you may well find the motor wont need to come out after all.
PLEASE PLEASE keep us informed of how this pans out, nice to hear the end results
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Sides
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 04:58 PM |
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Yup - very hard to beat original tinware.
Also one of your pics looks like maybe an exhaust leak on #4 cylinder ??? Worth checking and fixing before ya dyno...
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matberry
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 07:22 PM |
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If it's the ECU termp sender (which it looks likely to me) it would work better being relocated to the head at the top of the rocker area. The sump
is a much larger heat sink so doesn't match the temp of the heads quick enough.
Show us a pic of the engine lid and air vents. My feeling is you may not have enough air available. Also I don't like the exhaust heating the tappet
cover/head. Ceramic coating it will help a lot, but it would be better with more clearance and/or some sort of heat shield.
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Lateral
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 09:16 PM |
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Thanks guys, 30 degrees it is!
Yeah, I think the original aim of the car was to build a show car but I may be wrong.
My aim is to fix things so that it can be used as a daily driver and driven from here to Melbourne without any stress if needed.
Dave, my plan is to go to the Dyno first and get everything checked and then pull the engine out and refit everything and any missing pieces.
Who is the best place to go for some good tinware?
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 09:25 PM |
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Greg, why not fix everything first and then go to the dyno ? Apart from the high temps (which is now an obvious tinware issue) is the motor running ok
?
Dyno time is expensive and will put load and stress on your motor, so IMO its best to get all the other things sorted first so you don't have any
probs while dynoing.
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Lateral
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| posted on January 27th, 2013 at 09:47 PM |
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Hi Dave
Which photo makes you think that there is an exhaust leak on # 4?? Can you repost the photo and point out the problem area???
Matt, there is already a sensor located at near cylinder # 1 as per the attached photo.
Regarding the exhaust, I am in 2 minds as to what to do...either fix it up (tidy the welding, tail pipes and ceramic coating) or simply replace it
with a completely new already ceramic coated exhaust). I'll do some $$$ calculations and see what comes out of it......what do you guys think?
I think regardless of what I decide, the engine needs to come out so that all of the tinware can be properly fitted and any other hidden issues
resolved.
Craig, I agree with what you are suggesting but my idea for going to the dyno first is to have them simply check over the entire system including
wiring, sensors and settings etc and to provide me with some education at the same time as I they are happy to have me looking over their shoulder
when they are working on the car. I'm also going to be speaking with them as to what additional sensors they might recommend (eg: oxygen sensors).
I'm not going to the dyno so that they can thrash the crap out of the car.
I think by the time I take the car to the dyno, I'll have sorted out where to get the additional tinware and figured out how to install it etc. In
addition, I would have decided what to do about the exhaust.....can anybody recommend a good exhaust guy in Sydney and a company who can ceramic coat
it? Or can you guys recommend a good new exhaust with a good quiet note?
It's looking like dropping the engine out and fixing everything including any hardware changes recommended for the EFI system all at the same time is
the best way to go. I'm also thinking of removing the external oil cooler from the system but leaving the piping so that I can see if just the
original oil cooler can handle things and then connect the external cooler to see if the temperature drops further...a little bit of R & D
(Research and Development)
Daimo, I will definite keep this thread updated with what's going on....
Regards
Greg
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Bizarre
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| posted on January 28th, 2013 at 01:28 PM |
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What exhaust have you got on there now??
It use to have the stainless OEM VW header type that was like stock
They are actually not bad.
as a mild 1916 I reckon you need a 1 3/8" one - reckon you are better off with the base Vintage Speed
Something like this
http://store.vintagespeed.com.tw/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flyp...
If it is a daily - conside putting heater boxes back in for winter.
BTW
Could you relocate that coil pack?
I know you dont change leads that often - but I reckon you would need to pull the motor to get those ones out
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Sides
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| posted on January 28th, 2013 at 02:50 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Lateral
Hi Dave
Which photo makes you think that there is an exhaust leak on # 4?? Can you repost the photo and point out the problem area???
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Sure thing - inside the red circle below looks like soot perhaps ???
Often stuff like that is the first sign of an exhaust leak, and leaking where the header bolts onto #4 leaving soot on the tinware is a pretty common
thing really...
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VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners |
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Lateral
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| posted on January 28th, 2013 at 06:43 PM |
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Hi Dave
I just checked the tinware and there's no soot mate....I think it was a shadow/reflection when I took the photo. When I got the car before xmas, the
engine bay was pretty dirty so I gave it a good clean.
Bizarre, I don't know what brand/name/type the current exhaust is but it is stainless steel. The pipes are 40mm (external diameter) and the tail
pipes are 47mm (external diameter). Whils the exhaust is in good condition, it needs some attention especially if I am getting it ceramic coated. For
example, the mufflers are tilted so that you can't remove the rocker covers! and some of the welds need to be tidied up. I have attached a few
photos.
Regarding the heater boxes, whilst it will be a daily driver I have other cars that are more "daily drivers" than this car will be . This car will
be a "special" daily driver and I won't really need to have any heater boxes or heater functionality in the car.
Also, I will need to relocate the coil as it is sitting right where the missing tinware should be! More than likely I will mount it on the
firewall.....
Regards
Greg
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hellbugged
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| posted on January 28th, 2013 at 07:14 PM |
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If you're going to coat that exhaust it would be sensible to "flange" the j pipes to the rest of the system before coating
Doesn't look too bad of a set up
Prolly similar $$ to coating to just get a vintage speed system which would be a better performing set up
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1303Steve
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| posted on January 28th, 2013 at 08:09 PM |
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Hi Greg
It looks like a few non VW mechanics have had a go at this car.
I came a cross a 1600 Kombi once with no tinware, just the generator sitting on the pedestal, needless to say he had vapour lock and was sent home on
a tow truck.
Steve
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Lateral
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| posted on January 29th, 2013 at 06:27 AM |
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Hi guys
I'll get some pricing on fixing the existing exhaust and ceramic coating. I had another look at the Vintage Speed website and saw this setup ( http://store.vintagespeed.com.tw/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flyp...) which I
think may be more suitable as I am not running any heater boxes and don't intend to in the future.
Does anybody is Australia sell the Vintage Speed range? How good are these exhausts and do you know anybody that runs these?
Do you know if the exhaust tips extend out far enough to clear the rear bumper? (This is because my existing exhaust apparently didn't and somebody
"tacked" on some extensions.)
Regardless of what exhaust I run, I will still need to have it ceramic coated as the car still has the original rear apron/beaver panel and the
existing exhaust has been wrapped in some foil like insulation to reduce the amount of "burning" discolouration of the paint.
Your almost correct Steve!, the previous owner used a few VW specialist/expert mechanics over the years....I'll tell you a few stories when we
eventually catch up for that coffee.
I'm also starting to think that the once the engine is out, it will be a perfect time to have somebody pull it down, check it and then put it all
back together again so that I know that it is all ok in side.....
Regards
Greg
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Bizarre
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| posted on January 29th, 2013 at 07:25 AM |
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Vintage Vee Dub Supplies at Campsie sell them
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Lateral
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| posted on January 29th, 2013 at 08:42 AM |
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Thanks Bizarre
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sander288
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| posted on January 29th, 2013 at 10:44 AM |
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If you think the tips on the vintage speed are too short I know the company does make adjustments for customers quite often sometimes without expense
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Lateral
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| posted on January 29th, 2013 at 04:29 PM |
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Hi Sander288
Do you mean that Vintage Speed will make the adjustment or Vintage Vee Dub Supplies??
Regards
Greg
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Lateral
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| posted on January 29th, 2013 at 04:31 PM |
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Next question, 38mm or 42mm Header?
Regards
Greg
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