Subject: Engine combo stats vs Expected Horsepower
BiX
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posted on March 27th, 2013 at 08:48 AM
One thing I found with my engines is also the old idea of area below the curve, not just the peak power. My 1999cc, has 130rwhp, but is a more peaky.
I had a old 1776 with (guess) 70rwhp but had a good spread from 1500 to 5000 rpm. The 1776 motor in was easier to drive and more forgiving, though
maybe not quite as fast. I used to be able to mash the throttle and the limit was power not traction, plus it was more forgiving in slower corners,
both of which are great on the street. The new motor is better and probably point to point faster, but needs allot more work to keep it on song and
going. Its a race motor for when (soon!) i get back on the track. If your motor is for street use, the peak power number isn't always the best thing.
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posted on March 27th, 2013 at 09:29 AM
Quote:
Originally
posted by BiX
Its a race motor for when (soon!) i get back on the track.
6 years BiX... getting close to that magical 7 you liked to rib me about so much...
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posted on March 27th, 2013 at 08:01 PM
Quote:
Originally
posted by BiX
One thing I found with my engines is also the old idea of area below the curve, not just the peak power. My 1999cc, has 130rwhp, but is a more peaky.
I had a old 1776 with (guess) 70rwhp but had a good spread from 1500 to 5000 rpm. The 1776 motor in was easier to drive and more forgiving, though
maybe not quite as fast. I used to be able to mash the throttle and the limit was power not traction, plus it was more forgiving in slower corners,
both of which are great on the street. The new motor is better and probably point to point faster, but needs allot more work to keep it on song and
going. Its a race motor for when (soon!) i get back on the track. If your motor is for street use, the peak power number isn't always the best thing.
Very good advice
RAW069
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posted on April 2nd, 2013 at 07:45 AM
Thanks again for all the good advice.
A couple of things that I will look at to start with then;
1. Open up manifolds, tapered down evenly from the carb to the head
2. Is it worth me looking at the venturi size? Or should I leave this at 36mm?
3. I was looking at replacing the rockers as the builder used second hand and the adjuster feet are a bit worn too. Is it worth looking at using 1.25
ratio rather than the 1.1, is there much to gain with the W120 cam?
4. Also I am wondering what the valve clearance should be with HD Aluminium Pushrods. The builder recommended standard 0.006", but I have read
elsewhere the W120 is designed for 0.004"??
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posted on April 8th, 2013 at 01:27 PM
Quote:
Originally
posted by RAW069
Thanks again for all the good advice.
A couple of things that I will look at to start with then;
1. Open up manifolds, tapered down evenly from the carb to the head
2. Is it worth me looking at the venturi size? Or should I leave this at 36mm?
3. I was looking at replacing the rockers as the builder used second hand and the adjuster feet are a bit worn too. Is it worth looking at using 1.25
ratio rather than the 1.1, is there much to gain with the W120 cam?
4. Also I am wondering what the valve clearance should be with HD Aluminium Pushrods. The builder recommended standard 0.006", but I have read
elsewhere the W120 is designed for 0.004"??
Cheers
For those that might be interested, valve lash according to Engle for the W120 and HD Aluminum Pushrods is 0.004".
Does anyone have any input regarding using 1.25 ratio rockers??
