| [ Total Views: 4499 | Total Replies: 69 | Thread Id: 27844 ] |
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 nbturbo
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| posted on September 10th, 2004 at 08:56 PM |
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Another
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nbturbo
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| posted on September 10th, 2004 at 08:57 PM |
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Mistake-another
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nbturbo
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| posted on September 10th, 2004 at 08:59 PM |
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try again
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nbturbo
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| posted on September 10th, 2004 at 09:03 PM |
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Forgot to check its size-just over 50
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nbturbo
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| posted on September 10th, 2004 at 09:05 PM |
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and my jig for drilling
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seagull
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| posted on September 10th, 2004 at 09:48 PM |
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well done , as for the jig you can use the bearing cap and machine a spigot to fit in the bearing dia for location .
did you get the ford bits new ? or s / hand and recond .
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nbturbo
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| posted on September 10th, 2004 at 10:17 PM |
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No-bought everything new.Could probably take a chance with 2nd hand stuff from a wreck but decided since I had to use new rotors,may as well buy the
lot new. Will strip it all out now and get the arms blasted and powder coated then renew all the bearings and seals.
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seagull
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| posted on September 10th, 2004 at 10:24 PM |
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what was the cost of the bits please , less disks & hoses
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nbturbo
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| posted on September 10th, 2004 at 11:15 PM |
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Only bought rotors and calipers.Calipers $135ea, pads $40, rotors $70 each.Havn't got hoses yet-they shouldn't be to exxy.
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nbturbo
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| posted on September 29th, 2004 at 12:55 PM |
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Totaled up all the costs for this job-Calipers $270-Rotors$140-full set bearings,seals and O rings$144-Pads $40-New brake hoses $60-and machining I
couldn't do $100. All up came to $754 and the calipers brackets,wheel studs and 4 stud drums cost nothing.I now have everything brand new -but if you
kept the Ford pattern it would cost only the secondhand bits(probably around $150-$200) and some machining.Machined an end from an axle so can do the
all of the next one myself.Now have to get my Country Buggy front stub axles out to do a disc conversion on them so will have everything ready to bolt
up once I finish the pan.
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Jenny
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| posted on October 1st, 2004 at 10:41 AM |
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nbturbo,
that $144 was that just for the rear bearings/seals/gaskets/O-rings?
Cip1 in the US http://www2.cip1.com/ sell this as a complete kit (eg 2 x inner
bearings & seals, 2 x outer bearings & seals, gaskets & O-rings) for $49.95 USD with the current exchange rate that's about $70 AUD plus
p/h
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nbturbo
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| posted on October 1st, 2004 at 11:41 AM |
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Yes-2 inner-2 outer bearings-4 seals and 4 O rings.I got the double lip original type seals,but the outer bearings are the dear item-they list at $90
each but got them for $42 each.All bearings were Timken(supposedly Aussie made) The inners were $12 each.That US price is very cheap if all parts are
good quality.
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VWCOOL
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| posted on October 2nd, 2004 at 11:09 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by nbturbo
Some more progress for anyone interested.Drilled the aluminium caliper brackets and machined the VW bearing carrier to finish off my rear brake
conversion using Ford bits.Have clearance issues with the Porsche mags though.Caliper just clears the rim but the bleed nipple rubs.Will need a 5mm
spacer for all to clear(have bolted wheel up with 5mm's of flat washers) In hindsight it would have worked out much cheaper to stay with the Ford
stud pattern and sell the Porsche wheels and buy new Ford type mags.I cut the end from a swingaxle tube and drilled the holes 10.5 mm to use as a jig
to drill the caliper brackets-just fit it to the bracket,clamp it down where you want it and use it as a jig to drill the bracket.Will do the hand
brake cable after I have the suspension arm back in the pan.
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Ford have a different offset/bacspace to Porsche etc - with less 'backspace' the wheels will stick out further and may foul the guards. Have you
dummied up a bare Ford wheel, nbturbo or seagull (or anyone)? AU or BA Falcon might be a better fit under a Bug's guards as they have more backspace
on the wheels, on the same PCD
[Edited on 2-10-2004 by VWCOOL]
Pay your debts, CxxT
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nbturbo
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| posted on October 2nd, 2004 at 12:29 PM |
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This conversion only adds about 6mm per side to the original track.On my other car I am using a Sherman set up which also adds about the same to the
track.With this car I bought a nearly new set of 17x8's from an ED Ford and had big trouble getting guards to cover the fronts(wanted to keep the
early headlights) and needed much wider ones for the rear as well which weren't a problem.I ended up buying Aero guards all round which are less than
20mm wider than standard so had to buy a new set of AU offset 17x7's for the front and 17x8's for the rear.The fronts are perfect for clearance
issues with the suspension arms but may just catch the body on full lock in some situations.Will use slightly longer bolts at the front caliper
bracket mount.The rears were good too,but clearance between rim and front bolt to attach the swing arm to the pivot was only about 2mm and the rim was
not right out on the guard so made up some 12mm spacers-all is good.I could have used early Ford offset on the rear with 17x8's and all would have
been OK.Hind sight-a great tool.There is quite a good selection of rims in Ford patterns that you can mix early and late offsets.I have decided that I
am going to get another set all round with 17x7 fronts in AU offset and 18x8 at the back in early offset(won't need the spacers with these).Lucky my
Mitsubishi van needs a set of new 17x7 up front and 17x8 out back.The first set of ED wheels are going onto my car trailer.I have a mate who went with
Commodore stud pattern for his Sherman brakes and he had big trouble getting wheels to fit.He ended up buying some blank 17's from something else and
getting them drilled Commodore(may have even been Ford offset rims)I believe using Ford combos you could get quite large wheels under stock guards
with no clearance issues.I only used the Porsche wheels because I had them spare and thought a set of Fuchs would look the goods with big offroad
tyres mounted on them.Hind sight again-for all the extra costs to make brakes with 5x130 PCD I should have flogged off the Fuchs and stuck with Ford
Mags.
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VWCOOL
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| posted on October 2nd, 2004 at 01:16 PM |
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sweet. I want to retain the same wheel offset and size all round and am using 15x6 Commodore as they are almost identical offset etc to the 15x6-inch
widened 4-stud Beetle rims I already have (under standard early guards). The availability of a skinny space-saver spare (from a Monaro - will fit in a
Beetle spare wheel well) also gives the Commodore PCD approach appeal for me, too. I will have the wheels on the car (over some big-ass vented
brakes!) within a month - I will let u know how I go!
[Edited on 2-10-2004 by VWCOOL]
[Edited on 2-10-2004 by VWCOOL]
[Edited on 2-10-2004 by VWCOOL]
Pay your debts, CxxT
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nbturbo
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| posted on October 2nd, 2004 at 02:45 PM |
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thats good news-hope it all works OK for you.I thought the Commodore was a different PCD to the early Holdens(Monaro etc) I picked up a rim from an ED
Falcon and had the centre welded into a VW rim so I could also get a spare into the original spot-its a 15inch with a 165 original tyre which is very
close diameter to my 235.45x17's.Don't know how it will go with the 18's when I get them.
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VWCOOL
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| posted on October 2nd, 2004 at 02:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by nbturbo
thats good news-hope it all works OK for you.I thought the Commodore was a different PCD to the early Holdens(Monaro etc) I picked up a rim from an ED
Falcon and had the centre welded into a VW rim so I could also get a spare into the original spot-its a 15inch with a 165 original tyre which is very
close diameter to my 235.45x17's.Don't know how it will go with the 18's when I get them.
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yeah, the Commo is a different offset (more backspace, to mix the terms!) and PCD (metric 120/5) to the old imperial HQ-WBs, Toranas etc. The Monaro
I'm referring to is the current Commodore-based model V2-VZ. It has a 15x4-inch spare and a 135 or something tyre (to fit in the short-overhang boot)
that I can buy from Holden Spares or the wreckers. No need to change rims/centres then!
[Edited on 2-10-2004 by VWCOOL]
[Edited on 3-10-2004 by VWCOOL]
Pay your debts, CxxT
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nbturbo
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| posted on October 2nd, 2004 at 06:33 PM |
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On your wavelength now-thats a good idea using the Monaro wheel.
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VWCOOL
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| posted on October 2nd, 2004 at 07:24 PM |
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Pay your debts, CxxT
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nbturbo
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| posted on October 27th, 2004 at 10:26 AM |
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Finished the job at last.Some info for anybody doing the same as me-I used Ford wheel studs because they are plentiful and cheap but was having
trouble with nuts.The porsche wheel needs a nut with a larger seating area than a Ford and a different angle for the taper.I had investigated getting
nuts made.Yesterday I found these at the Bridgestone dealer by the bucketload and the diameter of the seating rim is 24mm-1mm less than a Porsche nut
but has the 60degree taper.It took me about 10 minutes to remachine the taper to the Porsche angle and now the nut problem is solved.
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nbturbo
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| posted on October 27th, 2004 at 10:27 AM |
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and my nuts
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nbturbo
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| posted on October 27th, 2004 at 10:55 AM |
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About 10 minutes to do the 10 0f them and best part they were 80cents each-wouldn't want to guess what a genuine nut would cost.And these have the
1/2 inch by 20 tpi thread in them.
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Jenny
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 10:21 AM |
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nbturbo,
how did you go with your clearance issues? I noticed in the last picture you posted that the bleed niple, handbrake lever and flex hose all seem to be
very close/touching the rim.
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nbturbo
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 12:50 PM |
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I machined up some spacers from some 6mm aluminium scrap and drilled the holes for a tight fit over the studs.The only worry now is the bleeder
nipple-it may get caught up in sticks that could get picked up off road.Will try and find a shorter one or machine a bit off this one.That pic
doesn't show the true story.Everything other than the bleeder now has plenty of clearance.check these out
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nbturbo
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 12:51 PM |
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and this
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nbturbo
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 12:53 PM |
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and the new brake hoses cost $30 each.
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Special Air Service
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 08:56 PM |
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I thought porsche wheel nuts were radiused not tapered
[size=5] Calling all NSW Mid North Coast Veedubbers
Click Below [/size]
[size=6]Mid North
Coast VW [/size] |
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Jenny
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| posted on November 16th, 2004 at 12:34 PM |
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NBturbo
do you have a pic of how you connected up the VW handbrake cable?
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nbturbo
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| posted on November 16th, 2004 at 09:39 PM |
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Will wait until I get the suspension all bolted in.I have done the cables on the Sherman rear discs though.Machined a bolt where they connect to the
lever and had to make spacers where the cables go into the pan.Will be the same for the Ford brakes.will take a shot tomorrow.Brakes on hold for
now-back into the fuel injection again.
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Jenny
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| posted on November 17th, 2004 at 06:45 AM |
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I found a pic of how Wes did his with the XF callipers, but the EA are a little different. 
Go here for a bigger pic http://www.offroadvw.net/bajawes/V6_baja/images/5th/rear%20disc.jpg
[Edited on 16-11-2004 by Jenny]
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