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 VWCOOL
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| posted on June 2nd, 2006 at 10:10 PM |
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f-n top chart!
Um, I assume the 'spring plate angle' means 'CHANGE in spring plate angle'?
[ Edited on 2-6-2006 by VWCOOL ]
Pay your debts, CxxT
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type3lover
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| posted on June 2nd, 2006 at 10:12 PM |
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That's great thanks dumone!
How does one "count" the number of splines that are being rotated before sliding the whole lot back together? It just doesn't feel precise to
me...or that may just be the beer factor last time I tried!
More importantly can I reset it to standard height and work from there without too much of a headache. These must be deviations from standard right? I
did not mark the relationships originally...stoopid 
Cheers! T
[ Edited on 2-6-2006 by type3lover ]
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VWCOOL
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| posted on June 2nd, 2006 at 10:15 PM |
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It takes a bit of 'feel'. I do it by placing some 'twist effort' on the bars with your hands at the same time as slowly pulling the bar out of the
splines (inner or outer) AS SOON as the bar is free of its splines, you turn it gently by one spline and feed it back in again.
Pay your debts, CxxT
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nbturbo
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| posted on June 2nd, 2006 at 10:20 PM |
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When you first release the tension from the spring plate and B4 you pull it away from the splines-scribe a line on the flange of the torsion bar
tube-using the spring plate as a guide-this way you will always a reference point of what the spring plate angle was when you started.
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type3lover
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| posted on June 2nd, 2006 at 10:23 PM |
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Well I wish that I had done that when I started to dismantle it all those years ago!
So VW didn't put marks or anything for ease of assembly at the original setting? How did they do it in the factory? Surely they didn't get a
protractor out and measure it??
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humpty
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| posted on June 3rd, 2006 at 03:19 PM |
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The factory had a 'base' setting that was standard. The bars do have markings on them but it is unlikely that the marks ment much in this regard,
the factory just slid the spring plate on, which is aligned at a certain spot.... Prolly with the lower retainer bolt hole or something..... But
because you haven't got a starting point, you haven't got a datum, so really you only have trial and error until you have it where you want.... And
the only way to get exactly is to have everything ready to bolt on.... Wheels, tyres, engine in the car, interior... everything..... Only then can you
hope to have the car set to the correct spot.... But be warned.... You will more than likely have to re-set it after a few miles, as the car will
'settle'.... Im sure someone on here would have an idea of the OE datum for a stock height setting.... Maybe Dallas would know.... He's a stock
TIII dude....
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type3lover
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| posted on June 3rd, 2006 at 06:07 PM |
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Yeah with no datum point I'm clutching at straws!
The engine and glass is installed but there is no interior yet - I'll guess the weight at being 60 kg including front seats. Should I also compensate
for just the driver sitting in the car? 90kg in the driver's seat must place more load on the right rear torsion bars (front too!).
Another question: If I install the torsion bars to the inner pivot points on the subframe does it matter what the alignment of the inner splines is
and will the outer splines be in identical positions? That would make things easier as I could then use the protractor method for the spring plates
but after seeing the chart posted by Dumone I am confused as to where the original positions for the inner splines are!
I really appreciate all the help.
Cheers, T 
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humpty
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| posted on June 3rd, 2006 at 11:32 PM |
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To my way of thinking it makes no difference where the inner spline is positioned.... The inner to outer spline relations hip is the same (ie: the
number of splines will not change as the bar is turned).... Just chuck them in, making sure you have them in the correct side of the car (ie: left one
in the left side of the car, etc...) and adjust the outer spline accordingly.... The only time you need to be concerned about the inner spline is if
you are moving that to make your adjustment..... Dont move it.... Simple!
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type3lover
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| posted on June 5th, 2006 at 04:50 PM |
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Sounds like a plan. I was pretty sure the inners would not matter but there's always that element of doubt...but as you say as long as they are not
moved their relationship with the outers will remain consistent.
Might have another go with my spirit level and $1.30 protractor, but now while it is soooo cold and wet here in Syd!
Cheers, Toby :thumb
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humpty
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| posted on June 5th, 2006 at 05:55 PM |
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Borrowed a camera.... Attached are some images of the rims and tyres I have on my Square..... And the brakes too!.... Should give you some ideas as to
what can be done.... To get this car any lower in the front you will have to do what Im doing to my Notch..... A narrowed LP Bug beam with drop
spindles and suitable mods to make it all fit..... Enjoy!
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type3lover
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| posted on June 9th, 2006 at 07:01 PM |
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That's awesome Humpty! How does it ride? I worry it might get too bumpy to be comfortable.
Also, I realise now that my current rims (the globe bathurst's) are no good to have on when trying to set the best ride height.
I'm on the case trying to get some more suitable rims & tyres.
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humpty
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| posted on June 9th, 2006 at 07:33 PM |
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It rides fine.... And it stops way better too!.... Personally I prefer to feel the road and not wonder all over it!.... Big fat baloon tyres move
about too much IMHO.... A nice firm sidewall is a much better option on the street.... Just make sure you buy the best tyres you can with the correct
axle load rating for your car.... Most tyres are made for cars that weigh a load more than your average VW....Tose sort of tyres tend to be a bit
'stiff' on the road.....These tyres on the Sqaure are the best tyres I have ever owned... They are quiet, sticky in the dry and the wet, don't
'tram track' and are wearing pretty well..... but the car is not low enough for me yet.... The notch will be a lot lower!....
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1500S
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| posted on June 9th, 2006 at 11:15 PM |
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>Another question: If I install the torsion bars to the inner pivot points on the subframe does it matter what the alignment of the inner splines is
and will the outer splines be in identical positions? That would make things easier as I could then use the protractor method for the spring plates
but after seeing the chart posted by Dumone I am confused as to where the original positions for the inner splines are!
I really appreciate all the help.<
If you have them out, you will have to go through the total setting of them from scratch to factory settings with the vehicle level. Once you have
established this setting it is up to you if you only want to rotate the outer spline to lower. You could go straight to dumone's chart if you like
to chance the amounts BUT they must be equal within the limits on both sides. Smile! You have no other choices! How accurate is the $1.30 protractor? You can still borrow the one I have!
DH
[ Edited on 9/6/2006 by 1500S ]
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