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OvalGlen
Custom Title Time!
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posted on May 15th, 2003 at 10:31 PM |
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Good point Mad - about the rotors - I was not aware of that resin issue,
Mine is teflon tipped and i wanted to cool this down with fuel, so different " courses ".
Another plus with your Blower position is that blow through reduces the Wet Manifold Length.
I wanted some manifold for a plenum area and also for cooling the charge - but too long will give problems with fuel separation.
My blow off valve will be very simple,
Valve spring (standard ) Three studs, plate to compress the spring - pushing a disk against a hole. Aim to O-ring the disk.
Keep the blow off valve close to the blower ( this reduces the explosion).
To adjust spring tension on blow off valve . Need to pressurize manifold " with guage attached " and adjust to suit.
I aim to run 8 Lbs boost , so think I'll try 14 Lbs blow off at first.
More later.
Regards,Glenn>
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Mad Manx
A.k.a.: Travin C.
Wolfsburg Wizard
KombiKroozin
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posted on May 16th, 2003 at 07:33 AM |
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This is what makes it all posible :thumb Its a blow back valve, came from the same Toyota I got my s/c from. Basicaly just like a cyclinder head valve
inside that is moved by the lack of vacume. the little inlet at the top has a hoseconnected to a tee piece- one end going to my boost gauge the other
to my inlet manifold under my carby (i used the line for vacume advance normally use on the dissy but i,m using a 009 so that worked out well). A WORD
OF WARNING if u are changing distrubitors and you have an aftermarket degreed crank pulley DONT trust the markings- this mistake really ruined my day-
put your motor on top dead centre first or pull the dissy cap off and hand crank your motor till its firing on cyclinder one before removing either
the crank pulley or distrubitor!!!
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- '71 Kombi (Died 24/11/05  ) - '65 manx (smick)
-'63 beetle (bent) -'73 Singlecab (new to the stable)
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Baja Wes
Bishop of Volkswagenism
V6 Baja Pioneer
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posted on May 16th, 2003 at 12:53 PM |
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Mad, nice work. However I don't think you have 150-180HP unless you got one big mother of an engine. In fact with that much HP you would be doing
low 12sec quarters. I have seen a 150HP manx do a high 12.
My mate has a rajay turbo kit on a 1600. My guess would be it has 80-90HP, the original Rajay kit was supposed to make 100HP but I don't think it
is.
It goes quite well, was pretty even with my Baja when I had a 1915.
I think a jap engine conversion is the best bang for your buck.
But I do love superchargers.
[Edited on 16-5-2003 by Baja Wes]
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moonlite6t6beetle
A.k.a.: Corey Marriott
Officially Full-On Dubber
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posted on June 3rd, 2003 at 08:06 PM |
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HA HA HA
I just got a old performance VW magazine which tells you how to modify your engine to suit a turbo which gives over 230HP for under $2k WOW.... if
anyones interested in the book let me know.
Moonlite... 54 and 66 beetle
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Mad Manx
A.k.a.: Travin C.
Wolfsburg Wizard
KombiKroozin
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posted on June 4th, 2003 at 06:37 PM |
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Moonlite, what does it mention about pistons? Forged flat tops are what I've been told to use? This will be relevent when I up the boost on my
motor.
Thanks:bounce
- '71 Kombi (Died 24/11/05  ) - '65 manx (smick)
-'63 beetle (bent) -'73 Singlecab (new to the stable)
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moonlite6t6beetle
A.k.a.: Corey Marriott
Officially Full-On Dubber
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posted on June 6th, 2003 at 10:36 AM |
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i'll u2u u
i'll u2u u when tonight, i am now home...
Moonlite... 54 and 66 beetle
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