| [ Total Views: 2873 | Total Replies: 54 | Thread Id: 75418 ] |
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 colonel mustard
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 10:43 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by psimitar
Mate, get some second hand 1600 heads and a die grinder. get these instead of the sump, roller adjusters and valve covers. Then you can DIY gas flow
your heads. Even with a basic clean up of the ports and some manifold port matching you should get an easy 5bhp. With the twin carbs and exhaust it
should be pretty nippy. Get rid of the 009 and fit a vac advance dizzy. This will make throttle response much better, esp at low revs. TBH i hate the
009. Wasn't great in the Ford Cortina and sure ain't any good in a bug but hey many people like them too.
and why does the photo of your bug remind me of the valley?
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Dunno why it reminds you of the valley..... Its not. Its 17 mile rocks.
Yeah, the 009 seems to work well at the moment, but i will wait till i get the kadrons on there, and i think i will be set. Your proabably right about
the exhaust, its pretty bad. It did give HP gain though, but not in a good way, im just hanging out to be able to afford the body work - then im
putting on that exhaust which is think will be a good move. I already have the mini sump and will try it and see. 
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Boozo
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 11:11 PM |
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buy the looks of the exhaust you had it was a merged fatboy style, which performance wise is alot better than the old thunderbird. i used to have the
T bird system, nice and loud but not big on performance, as psimitar said to much flow can be bad, but it is a T bird so im sure you'll have no
troubles with the 1600. i mostly had it for its tiny size with the little hotdog muffler and they way it tucked up under the body. more room for
lowering, and they are cheap so it doesnt matter if you trash it  .
avoid bolt on tappet covers, save your cash for that 1916 and when you
build it, put a windage tray in it, then you wont need the funny little deepsump pickup thingy
[size=4] '59 or Kombi?....feeling confused [/size]
'59 bug
'68 bug
'82 import T3 BUS. aircooled
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colonel mustard
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| posted on April 4th, 2009 at 02:12 PM |
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thanks boozo! The 1916 is a far way off, sadly. Probably going to run it with 40 dells... so thats just a little more that i Have.. hahaha. Cars cost
so much money. :S why do we do it!!!
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whatnow
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| posted on April 6th, 2009 at 12:19 AM |
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once the stock suspension wear is sorted, i'd be putting my cash towards shocks, swaybars and of course brakes. anyone can go fast in a straight
line. you don't need to be able to accelerate fast if you don't need to slow down for the corners in the first place (a close to stock 1600 won't
be a trafficlight warrior so save your battles for ones you know can win) .
remember that good brakes can make the difference between life/death. straight/mangled front end. plus you can gain a lot of ground on someone if you
use your brakes well (especially if they are good).
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colonel mustard
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| posted on April 6th, 2009 at 01:07 PM |
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gave up on the twin carbs, just making it nice and smooth now..
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colonel mustard
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| posted on June 4th, 2009 at 10:18 AM |
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Just as an update, I finally got the car to stop cutting out, turns out it was the coil. got a second hand on there and its going sweet. stay tuned in
the next few days for all the fun stuff thats going to happen before warwick. whooo.
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colonel mustard
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 01:44 PM |
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So, you have probs seen my 1776 thread.....
So here is how it is. I'm not building a new engine, just upgrading with a new clutch and some go fast bits. Id love some feedback on anyone that has
used some of these products. (the sump,oil pump, breather box - etc)
I have sourced a new clutch kit which will be installed when the engine comes out (for the body work that is being done..) Machine the flywheel.
New gear box mounts. (any reconmendations??)
Install an extended sump - CB performance sump for Classicveedub.
Install a maxi 2 oil pump (has the filter on the front - needed as the strainer will be removed because of the sump)
install thunder bird exhaust (already have this one..)
Install new valve covers - CB performance
install oil temp dipstick and gauge ($210 classic vee dub!)
install Kadrons ( will be purchasing from Rod Penrose in the next few weeks!)
should be some suitable upgrades there
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DavoBuggy 1641
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 06:56 PM |
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Hey Jason, I don't know if you were at Warwick last year but i was out there racing my Yellow 1600cc buggy with Kadrons. I ended up blowing it up on
the first burnout on Sunday, after about 12 runs on Saturday. When I got home and pulled the heads I found 3 stray valves and 3 damaged pistons. The
rest was ok being a stock 1600 case, crank and rods with Engle 100 cam Empi lifters custom chromemoly pushrods, fitted after destroying 4 stock push
rods, mainly from the Heavy duty valve springs to get it to rev. Stock rockers and swivel foot adjusters all being previously fitted upon building the
engine.(unsure on original price, probably owed me $2000 having built it myself.)
From that I enlisted the help of Leon's Motors and purchased a 1641cc Piston and Barrel kit $400/500 and dropped off my sorry looking heads which he
returned with 40mm Stainless Intake valves and 35mm Stainless exuast valves with hardened seats. Mechining was done inside the cumbustion chamber and
they were also ported. A fresh set of Heavy springs and I was back in action. $1300/1400
The car was then Dyno'd and the Kadrons were jetted to suit the bigger cappacity. Ended up putting out 70bhp to the wheels!
Don't know if this helps? Just something to ponder if your engine is a bit tired!!!! To build something like this you would have to start from
scratch. There is very little point doing some mods and not the others. Saying this the engine will produce more hp simply by bolting a set of Kadrons
on and when jetted correcty can be very reliable. All depends on the condition of your motor.
As for the Exuast I have a 4 into 1 Exctractor type with a baja quiet muffler which has good flow with sufficiant back pressure and quite a nice
note(not that quiet) however I had a stinger pipe fitted when i over revved it at warwick(stupid loud) As for a bettle I havn't had to deal with that
problem yet. Interested to see what you come up with?
Check out my Drag Buggy Project on the drag racing forum!
Cheers Dave!
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colonel mustard
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 08:46 PM |
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Cheers dave!. I'm Hoping that I don't bust the 1600 straight up... but my mechanic has a 1641 sitting in his jig in his workshop waiting to go.... I
just dont have the $4000 he wants for it, otherwise it would be going in at the same time. listed above is nearly $2000 worth of bolt ons (which no
one has suggested I do...) so I guess asides from the kadrons, I could probably just save my cash and go for the better engine. Its always an option
(it just depends how much work I get in the next few months). I have learnt so far that to get an old car to the specs you want, it takes a fair bit
of cash. Thats alright with me, I dont see myself driving anything else other than air cooled old school, I just love it toooo much
Im just collectiing things slowly as I go. Probably going to order the Carbs this week, but not get the manifolds or linkage, and just look heaps @
swap meets.
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 09:29 PM |
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$4000 for a 1640cc !! ...............I have a fully rebuilt Pobjoy base
1916 (hasn't been started yet) that i can sell you for that amount of $$ !!!
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colonel mustard
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 09:45 PM |
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^ most people just don't see the point of building a 1641... I can't say i can either when Rod Penrose has long block 1916's for just under $4000.
having said that. i dont have $4000. which is why im just trying to get it reliable, cheaply. (which is why half the fancy stuff that looks cool isnt
going to happen.
It will most likely just all go back in, + a breather box and + a fuel pressure reg (on rod's recomendation) and be driven till it dies.
In saying that, brakes are getting pretty bad and need attention before major HP.
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 09:59 PM |
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you dont need a pressure reg.....
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colonel mustard
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 10:21 PM |
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really? he recons they run heaps smoother on 1.5 psi.... I dunno. Its $50 might be worth doing a few experiments and see what it brings out...
either way, the terrible economy I'm getting from the setup now (34pict3 + 009 + way too big exhaust) will be much better with the new setup (kads,
009, better exhaust that actually gets all the waste out the tail pipe.....) So, im just hoping for some smoothness and some reliability (prefer to
have all the power when i put the foot down, not this huffing and puffing and splutering rubbish I'm gettting from it now).
But then brakes will be high on the list. Oh how I wish I was given decent hours at work so i could get poor colonel running how he should be 
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psimitar
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 10:24 PM |
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a cheap and effective way of setting the pressure at a certain level is by grinding the std pumps pushrod down. people in the UK have been doing this
for years.
Does require using a pressure gauge so that you can set it properly but may be of use to you.
madness is in the eye of the beholder  |
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psimitar
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 10:29 PM |
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oh and get away from using the 009. They are crap and bad for your fuel economy. The correct vac/mech advance dizzy that VW fitted is much better and
gives much smoother ride especially from low revs.
Vac dizzys can still work with twin carbs too
madness is in the eye of the beholder |
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colonel mustard
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| posted on August 15th, 2009 at 10:55 PM |
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well, $300 later... Im probably not changing the disi out..... the issues that im having are because of the exhause being way too large and bad flow
for the engine size.
Im told the setup that i will be running will be good... just have to get it in there Im also told by most people changing the fuel pressure wont do much. but I will test it out one day
Regarding the oil setup that i mentioned above (the CB maxi pump and extended sump) has anyone run these items at all??? I think they are both a great
idea... but sadly due to have a 73, I cant just throw the pump onto a 1915 when i get it.... its a different type. Im thinking of just getting the
cover with oil in/out and getting an external cooler with oil filter adapter... thoughts?
Anyone have any brake suggestions while im on the topic...? Im hoping to go rear disc eventually..., and just get the fronts fixed up for the current
time. John sherman has larger calipers that he is recomending I use with standard discs and new seals/bearings/pads. proably just need to machine
drums and get new shoes for the rear....
ideas are all welcome.
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BiX
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 10:24 AM |
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Brakes, just make sure its all good, new seals etc and give it a good bleed and it should be fine.
You keep mentioning that you want a reliable engine..... yet you keep talking about mods........ there is a saying you can three of the below
1. reliable
2. fast
3. cheap
Having been in your posistion, student trying to get a car going etc I know whats it like. I also raced mine, so there was allot more emphasis put on
power and performance. All I can say is, it will be a money pit.
I had a 1600, stock.... nice then i started playing with it..... that engine lasted 6 months before it needed a rebuild. Then it became a 1776 with
twin 40mm dells... nice street motor but being flogged most weekends it last about 3 years on the track...... then the 1999cc was built, it cost a arm
and leg... it built to be fast and reliable (see above, so you can assume the price) and I love it. But i am back to square one. Need to get the rest
of the car back up to standard to start back at the track.
I suppose waht i am trying to say is you need to know what you want to do.... how much money you have and what you are willing to live with. And jsut
go for things as required....... you cna plan all you want for the future but jsut get you car on the road an enjoy what it has! The best mods I ever
did were an exhaust, carbies and get everything well balanced and built properly. If you mod the 1600 and rev it more, flog it more. You will be
needing to build that 1776/1916 allot sooner than what you first thought!
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
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colonel mustard
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 11:17 AM |
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Thanks for the advice BiX!!
Right now what is really most important is the brakes.... I'd rather stop than go too fast and not be able to stop.
I guess the pay is going towards brakes for the next few weeks....months (4 hours a week means months..)
any tips on where to get shoes and wheels cylinders for the rear from....???
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silver
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 11:32 AM |
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the most important thing is good insurance the best money you will ever spend
Keeping it real !
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psimitar
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 12:01 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by colonel mustard
Thanks for the advice BiX!!
Right now what is really most important is the brakes.... I'd rather stop than go too fast and not be able to stop.
I guess the pay is going towards brakes for the next few weeks....months (4 hours a week means months..)
any tips on where to get shoes and wheels cylinders for the rear from....???
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Brakes? Have you got std size rims or aftermarket larger diameter? Wondering as there's a guy selling an upgrade kit on the buy/sell forum. It's a
vented disc with big Holden calipers but only goes with aftermarket wheels. Vintage may do a vented kit for yours too. It's a personal thing but if
your gonna upgrade the brakes then go vented on the front. I feel safer with vented brakes cos you can hammer them harder before you get brake fade
but like I said thats just me. Most folks find the solids to be fine. A bigger caliper on a std disc would definately help increase braking pressure
and larger pads would give more grip too.
take a look at these guys for vented kits
Machine7UK
As for your engine dude. I had a 1600tp in my 1303. Std pushes out 50bhp I had twin 34ICT's, bit of home porting to the heads and bugpack 4-1
manifiold and quiet pack.
Gave me just under 70bhp and was enough to annoy the local rice boys. If you want cheap carbs then search on Ebay UK. much more stuff available and
for smaller item the shipping ain't much.
As others have said tho, don't rev the nuts off the engine otherwise it won't last long. For a long lasting VW you need a CW crank with everything
else balanced too. Possibly using a wasserboxer or ali case as these are stronger but then this is what you'd do when it comes to building a bigger
engine. Not much point for a 1600 unless you're going to turbo it
madness is in the eye of the beholder |
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colonel mustard
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 12:05 PM |
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I've got that.... I just like having brakes because lots of other
drivers are stupid... very stupid indeed.
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BiX
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 12:12 PM |
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With a stock motor a well maintained and set up stock brake setup will be fine.
For new wheel cylynders, micks, or leons etc...
Make sure you have new fluid in the system and its well bled.
Simple upgrade is type 3 rear drums, little wider in the pad area
make sure all the rubber lines are new and not bulging when brakes are one.
I run std pads in mine, even when it went to the track... jsut meant it was for sprints only (up to 3 laps at QR was the max) and needed changing
rather ofthen.
Try aI think its Queensland Friction materials or simialr, they will put a new compound on std backing paltes. I have used these on a rally car, and
they work fine......
best bet, got a do a skid pan day with the car, and learn to brake properly!!! and also learn car control. It made more difference for me than any
perfomace mod i made, most cost effective to!
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
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cnfabo
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 01:28 PM |
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hey mr mustard man, i wouldnt be worried bout no 1776 when craig said hell sell you a fresh pobjoy rattler base 1916cc. $4000 bargain...you will be a
happy camper....
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colonel mustard
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 01:37 PM |
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I'd be a very happy camper.... If I had $4000... I'd so be there... If I had $4000
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cb john
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| posted on August 16th, 2009 at 04:45 PM |
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Jason, you starting to sound like an old woman...if you do not have $$$, don't dream about quick VW...stay with a good stock and enjoy it...talking
about power at the time, when you did not sort your brakes and probably steering, suspensions etc. are shot too ...doesn't sound right...
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