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 68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
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| posted on April 5th, 2009 at 08:19 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by gsa2at
found the hose in question tucked away at the back of the engine bay
now when i move the stick there is a lurch of the car and a whistling airy sound from the back of the car
forward gears engage ok at rest - although clunks a fair bit
reverse is still grinding like hell
i think i will replace all the vac hoses anyone got the type and dimensions required - where do i get em ??
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Hi
You need to adjust the clutch servo which is located on the LHS of the gearbox..
Here is a pic of the adjuster...
You will need to take the Vacuum hose off the SERVO
then undo the locknut about 2 turns..
use two spanners where the yellow dots are.
this is easy if you have very small hands.. or the heater box is missing...
then tighten the adjuster until it touches the locknut,,
Tighten the locknut UP....
Replace the hose on the servo... with clamp...
test run...
If It still crunches in Reverse...
repeat the process...
If it crunches in the other gears...
The contact points in the gearlever needs to be cleaned/adjusted...
You could be changing gears with the clutch servo NOT operating the clutch properly... if the points are dirty or burned..
New Hoses - 13mm or 12.7mm transmission oil hose should be OK... should be available from an auto shop or transmission shop - I found some good
12.7mm Red colored 1300PSI transmission hose locally...
If You can press or bend the hose together... it will no good - it will suck in...
1/2 inch 13mm Auto water hose is Definately NO GOOD...
cheers
LEE
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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gsa2at
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 posted on April 5th, 2009 at 09:21 PM |
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cheers lee - tis really good to have pictures that inform
i fear mine won't be coloured the same ( all greasy and black ) LOL
but i should be able to give it a try now
thanks muchly
jack the beetle rides again !!!
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ctefeh
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on April 5th, 2009 at 10:04 PM |
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gsa2at,
Fit the hydraulic hose Lee has mentioned. That brake booster hose while stiff enough is the wrong ID. You can use it but get some quality
hose clamps so it seals real good. If you want to re-use your VW originals spray with WD-40 to help loosening them.
A last tip is that Mercedes aircleaner mounts and some oil cooler mounts are a worthy replacement for your original mounting rubbers which appear
pretty stuffed in your photo.
You can only get the correct hose from one place in the US unless you want to try BMW (ka-ching!!). I got mine before the postal price hikes and when
seamail was still an option.
Enjoy
Ctefeh
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
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| posted on April 6th, 2009 at 12:59 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ctefeh
gsa2at,
Fit the hydraulic hose Lee has mentioned. That brake booster hose while stiff enough is the wrong ID. You can use it but get some quality
hose clamps so it seals real good. If you want to re-use your VW originals spray with WD-40 to help loosening them.
Enjoy
Ctefeh
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Yes, I replaced all My hose clamps with good quality Ones
the hose has lasted over 3 years, with little mileage.
I will replace them again this year..
but no signs of cracking yet with the black hose I have used.. the RED covered 1300psi hose looks like an excellent hose, which will last for
years..
You also need to check the engine oil level..
and the ATF on the RHS...
the ATF should be a red color.. if its pink it has water in it
if its black or smells burnt it needs renewing,,
cheers
LEE
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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gsa2at
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| posted on April 6th, 2009 at 05:40 AM |
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have read a bit about replacing ATF - seems involved - is it true you have to use 5L and run the engine whilst doing it ??
is that last pic where you drain it ?
being a dummy would love a laymans step through on this process
jack the beetle rides again !!!
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eraser
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on April 6th, 2009 at 09:00 PM |
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replacing atf is easy :P just empty the tank on the right then fill it with new stuff then leave the inflow pipe off and turn it by hand a few times
then put it back in ... easy :P
As for the air sound both mine make the slight woosh (i even have replaced the bladder and have a spare) when i tap the gear stick all good i know its
working  if i dont hear it i got no more vacuum left :P (time to rev the
shit out :P)
Same with reverse you may still be loosing vacuum just give it a bit of stick then take your foot off and try throw her into reverse ... (BTW i learnt
all this from my new wonderful autostick, the other one never had any issues..)
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
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| posted on April 7th, 2009 at 12:47 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by gsa2at
have read a bit about replacing ATF - seems involved - is it true you have to use 5L and run the engine whilst doing it ??
is that last pic where you drain it ?
being a dummy would love a laymans step through on this process
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Hi
No, Don't run the engine without any ATF..
the ATF pump will get scored...
I just undid the Banjo bolt under the tank, and drained all the ATF out... then do up the banjo bolt - keeping an eye on the two copper washers on
the bolt..
if You cannot take the banjo bolt out of the ATF Tank..
take the hose off where it screws onto a pipe..
You need to use two spanners -one to hold the pipe - and one to unscrew the hose.. drain the ATF ..
connect the pipe back to the hose..
Now refill the ATF tank with about 4 litres .. I used Valvoline ATF and it comes in a 5 litre container..
Now take off the hose just below the ATF cap/dipstick..
and place the end in a bucket or container..
have someone start the engine while you look at the color of the ATF going into the bucket etc..
As soon as its the correct color , have the engine stopped
this shouldn't take long..
Now, You have nice clean ATF all thru the system..
replace the Hose..
Put the remaining ATF into the ATF Tank...
Check for leaks with the engine going....
cheers
LEE
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
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| posted on April 7th, 2009 at 12:50 AM |
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Vacuum Tank
The Vacuum tank should hold enough vacuum to engage the clutch approx 6 - 8 times with the engine OFF..
I can do this with My beetle even after sitting for many weeks...
If You have a hole in the bladder, or a loose hose or loose
hose clamp
Vacuum will escape...
it should only take a minute to fill the Vacuum take up again
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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jedidan
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| posted on April 7th, 2009 at 08:55 AM |
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lee, i am still in awe with the amount of different colours you have used - I can only imagine what ur paint shelf looks like !
[size=3]IF I'M GOING TO HELL, I'M GOING IN A VW BEETLE[/size]
My Family's Swiss VW Buggy Legacy --------> CLICK
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
Posts: 11654
Threads: 449
Registered: August 31st, 2002
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Location: SCONE in UPPER HUNTER VALLEY NSW
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Mood: Really Mentally Ill - all of the time -
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| posted on April 7th, 2009 at 04:55 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by jedidan
lee, i am still in awe with the amount of different colours you have used - I can only imagine what ur paint shelf looks like !
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I need more yellow ..... and Green.....
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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gsa2at
Slammed & Awesome Dubber
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| posted on April 7th, 2009 at 08:04 PM |
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Lee i am stoked with the description and pics - thanks
shame the grease covers the original VW colors you have demonstrated
even i should be able to figure this out
unfortunately away over easter and will have to wait til next week to try to make little "Jack" happy again
will let you know how it goes!!
jack the beetle rides again !!!
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gsa2at
Slammed & Awesome Dubber
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| posted on April 30th, 2009 at 10:04 PM |
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progress
finally got time to work on Jack today
degreased the engine bay and under the car
then replaced spark plugs and engine oil
as for the auto trannny
changed the servo's over as i had a spare one from a working system
i have tried to flush the ATF as per Lee's instructions
found that the return pipe to the reservoir had completely disintegrated ( what a mess on the drive way !!!)
fortunately i had a replacement hose off the spare tranny that came with the car
back in business after a bath in dirty transmission fluid while fitting the "new" hose - we flushed the system and after around 3litres of dirty
fluid coming out of the transmission and the reservoir running low i decided to call it a day until i had more replacement fluid ( having already used
the 5 ltr valvoline)
i am yet to check the contact points and adjust the clutch nuts - will do that this weekend
the car goes into gear with some clunking - sometimes it grinds into reverse sometimes it goes in smoothly
jack the beetle rides again !!!
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colonel mustard
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on April 30th, 2009 at 10:12 PM |
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I know all cars are different, but from memory when i was doing flushes on mazda 3's and 6's....... a flush was either 7 or 9 litres..... Im not
100%. I guess as long as its a good level and really clean you're sweet. make sure the level is right. Auto fluid is usually checked with the engine
running (ask lee or dan to check this) - might be different cause its a different system.
be sure the level is right, a good level means good changes 
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gsa2at
Slammed & Awesome Dubber
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| posted on May 5th, 2009 at 10:06 PM |
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servo change over
my previous post should have read that i changes the control vavle ( the one in the engine bay)
i have flusjed the ATF system with about 5litres of new type D valvoline ATF and filled the reservoir again
the servo diaphragm appears to be shot
i disconnected the hose and blew in it (yuck) and there was air leaking from the servo
i have a spare one which doesn;t leak
is it just a simple as undoing the bolts from the servo to the car body and the adjuster+ locknut to the servo then putting the new servo in place and
adjusting ??
i have also cleaned the contacts on the stick shift and reinstalled - any tips on adjusting this tricky sucker would be appreciated!!
jack the beetle rides again !!!
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on May 5th, 2009 at 10:23 PM |
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2 mins of having ign on, and touching the shifter to hear the clutch servo relay tick when you put your hand on it... If it stayed on with hand off,
unscrew a little and retry... if it didn't go on with hand on, screw down.
thats what i did :P
Man i miss that tech. would ahve saved me alot of time. pity the gearing was high though.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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ctefeh
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on May 5th, 2009 at 11:11 PM |
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Gsa2at,
Undo the bottom lock nut, screw down until the upper stick section is locked, back off 1/2 turn and then try to get the slot running
fore/aft. Back off rather than tighten.
You may have to undo the top locknut to achieve this. Biatch of a job, more compilcated if the stick has to come out if it proves to be so &^$^%
tightly done up...
If it is a stick out job, scribe around the mounting plate on the frame tunnel. Undo one bolt, scribe inside the elongated hole onto the steel stop
plate. Do that bolt up and then undo the second one and scribe that hole too. Then whip out the wire from its under-seat connector, undo the bolt and
remove gearstick. Acres of fun to adjust it. Putting it back in will be a real thrill. Best to have a paperclip handy to get that stop plate (under
the gearstick) positioned "just so" when you are aligning all the scribe marks.
Your choice....
HTH
Ctefeh
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
Posts: 11654
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 posted on May 6th, 2009 at 03:01 AM |
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the gearlever should be spring loaded
with the gear knob/lever resting on the RHS..
the spring is located under the oval plate under the rear seat...
I can move My gearknob sideways without any thing
happening...
I need to move it forwards or backwards to engage the
control valve..
cheers
LEE
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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gsa2at
Slammed & Awesome Dubber
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| posted on May 6th, 2009 at 10:32 PM |
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Thanks guys - i knew you would come up with answers
thursday is day off work VW day - will replace servo and fine tune stick shift
progress video to follow!!
jack the beetle rides again !!!
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gsa2at
Slammed & Awesome Dubber
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| posted on May 7th, 2009 at 07:19 PM |
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up and running !!
An exciting day !!!
thanks to everyone's advice !! - this is a brilliant website
got the replacement servo in (boody hard to get to but eventually got there !!
resoldered the wire into the contact on the stick shift
away we go !! - the gear changes are easy and smooth like clock work
now for RWC after flor pan repairs and indicatorshort repairs !!!
jack the beetle rides again !!!
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