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Author: Subject:  wrx drive line
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posted on June 13th, 2010 at 10:05 PM



Pity I'm not in Sydney, I could design up an adaptor and custom flywheel without too much trouble.

On my V6 I kept costs down but using as many standard parts as possible, just in weird combinations. I have the Mazda flywheel and pressure plate, but the VW ring gear, clutch plate and throw-out bearing.




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posted on June 13th, 2010 at 10:10 PM



Hey Wes, once you drew everything up in cad, what could you get one off adaptor plates and one off flywheels made for? p.s. I'm keen to retain the standard Subie flywheel and adapt it to the vw crank instead.



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posted on June 13th, 2010 at 10:53 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 76bug
a standard 5 speedsubaru box will handle 180-200kw at all 4 wheels in a full wrx with no problem, i dont know why you guys are worried about wether it will last or not in a beetle which only 900kg and driving 2 wheels. if the reverse crown will is a quality unit it is a fantastic concept.


its the ratio that is the braking point of the subaru box and Todd is on to this with a 4.44 crown wheel and pinon.

If you look at the subaru gear boxes over the years one can see what subaru did to beat the braking issue.

aussi boxes were 3.9 front & 3.54 rear there crap !
Jdm boxes 4.11 & 4.44
Now there is a 4.11 legacy box has a wave washer in 1st gear to stop the gear singing to you as you drive up to the window in macas , then there is a 4.11 wrx gear box & a 4.11 sti RA box close ratio.

The v3 sti was 4.44 ratio a good strong box , however I have three here broken 1st 2nd 3rd

Throw all the above out the window when your talking 6 speeds as the gears are massive & the box has a oil pump fitted. not like the 5 speed that is splash feed with oil.



Todd what steel is your cv flange made from ? it would be smart to have a flat rear face as the bolts come lose and I would want to fit a locking nut on the rear.


all looks good Todd




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posted on June 13th, 2010 at 10:56 PM



I know a good machine shop with all the CNC gear in Sydney if that helps ??



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posted on June 13th, 2010 at 11:05 PM



I bought a big chunk of 20mm aluminium plate for $50 from a scrap metal merchant. We made 3 adapters from it, abrasive water jet cutting cost $66 per adaptor.
http://www.offroadvw.net/bajawes/V6_baja/images/adaptor1.jpg

The flywheel cost $264 dollars. That was machining the ring gear off an old 2nd hand VW flywheel, machining up the Mazda flywheel, then pressing and welding the ring gear on.
http://www.offroadvw.net/bajawes/V6_baja/images/flywheel/flywheel.jpg

I was happy with the adaptor plate, but I think the flywheel could have been done better. Having said that 2 of them exist, and neither have had a problem.




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posted on June 14th, 2010 at 03:35 PM



Thanks Seagull, we're slowly getting there, still a few bugs to iron out but I'll keep working on things and keep developing kits. The flanges are made from 709M billet, this is a pre-hardened steel used for gear making that still lets the machine tool cut it without too much wear.

The first batch I had hand-made as I couldn't get a cnc shop to do them at a reasonable price. But I think the guy making them for me will tire of it real quick, there's a lot of steps involved and material to remove. Going to visit another cnc shop this week to see if I can get a more reasonable price. Would like to keep the manufacture in Australia if possible. Barring this I may go to a forging and just have them done at the gear factory that does my gears.

I'm a bit surprised you want a flat face to put a nut on the back - millions of flanges around the world and I've not seen any with nuts on the back. But I guess it's easy enough to incorporate and then we've got an additional feature. Thanks for the suggestion :tu:




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posted on June 14th, 2010 at 07:18 PM



Did a bit of work in fitting the subie box into a super today. Holesaw a hole a couple of cm to the right of the current shifter hole and then trim the access hole in the pan a bit to let the shift rod come through as per the pic of the shift rods above.....total work 5 min.

Now you find that the back of the box hits up against the lower lip of the body in 2 spots - where the reverse lockout is on the back of the box, and the finned ridge on top of the box. Grind off the ridge on the box, grind off the lip on the bottom of the body. Undo the body bolts and insert some washers to space it up a tad in the gearbox area. Box fits.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/in%20type%201%20pan/Subarugearboxintobeetle003.jpg

You can see here the lip that needs to be ground off the body.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/in%20type%201%20pan/Subarugearboxintobeetle002.jpg

If you really wanted it to fit nicely and have a bit of clearance for driveline movement you would need to do a little cut n shut or some persuasion with a hammer.

Didn't get to fitting the motor/box combo as some of the back of the body needs to be cut away to fit those big heads in. More to follow in a few weeks time.




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posted on June 18th, 2010 at 05:26 PM



Pity ben the guy who owns the car at the shed still doesnt know we were drilling holes in his car!!!

All looks good!!! Especially the CV flanges that I was hoping Todd would forget he showed me and leave them there...

Single side plate with albins gears will be for sale shortly if anyone interested...

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posted on June 18th, 2010 at 07:48 PM



Todd, i have a mate with a 5 axis cnc if you want to get another cost perspective.


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posted on June 19th, 2010 at 05:16 AM



Would you guys mind getting in on my thread here ??:?:
http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?tid=2754#fp 




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posted on July 10th, 2010 at 04:48 AM



OK guys, I think we've pretty much found Nirvana for the beetle guys. We managed to get the Subie Quad Cam EJ20T and 5 speed transmission to fit under the rear decklid and guards.

Thanks to the incredibly friendly, helpful and skillful assistance of Boof and his mates at the shed, we got to work on solving all this. Before I launch into it, a round of applause for Boof (Matt) for being a true champion, there was already a cut up pan and back half body waiting for me tonight. Thanks again.

They key to making this setup fit in a beetle body is to lower the engine and transmission down as close to the frame horns as possible. We actually end up with the motor in the same spot as if you used an IRS beetle box with the banana mount reversed to move the beetle box forward.

In order to get the Subaru output shaft as low as possible, I have to produce some Subaflange output flanges that are 50mm longer and move the large part of the flange and cv outboard of the frame horns. Thus the skinny part of the output flange can sit just above the horns. This will necessitate finding or making shorter drive shafts but that was already part of this conversion anyway.

This mock-up was done with a swingaxle pan which still has round frame horns. An IRS pan already has these flatter so expect a decent amount more clearance for the cam covers on an IRS pan to what you see in these pics.

This is what we cut out of the body to get it to fit. There is a bit of cutting on the edge of the seatbelt mount reinforced plate so you would/should box this and make everything strong again. We really didn't need to cut into that firewall/parcel shelf. One bolt of the transmission just hits it. This could be 'adjusted' with a hammer or the bolt left out and the boss ground off the gearbox.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010525.jpg

We needed to cut off some of the back of the body, just after the last body/guard bolt. Also cut some of the metal off the inside of the guard to clear the cam covers. Maybe a little much was cut away here but you get the picture.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/10072010530.jpg

Left hand guard j.u.s.t. touching the top of the cam cover.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/10072010531.jpg

Without cam cover

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010511.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010512.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010516.jpg

Right hand side cam cover

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010513.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010514.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010515.jpg

Without cam cover

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010523.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010524.jpg

Output shaft to frame horn clearance

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010528.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010529.jpg

Throttle body to firewall clearance....you could get a pod filter on that for n/a and get nice cool air, or for turbo apps you could get a silicone elbow in there and route to wherever your intercooler is. No cutting of firewall for throttle (maybe around the turbo depending on location and up-pipe.)

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010527.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010526.jpg

And the finale......

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/ttriebler/Subaru%20Engine%20and%20Transmission%20in%20Type%201%20beetle/09072010509.jpg

Aircooled guys you KNOW your motors are gonna fit in here with this box easy AS. I am working on the adaptor plate and flywheel adaptor for type 1 and type 4 motors to bolt right up.




Reversed gears for Subaru transmissions.
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posted on July 10th, 2010 at 09:24 AM



boys looks ok....i would turn the throttle body,manifold around....thats wat i did!
U will get more room around the cam pulleys

Good stuff to matt:cool:
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posted on July 10th, 2010 at 11:32 AM



nice!!!!
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posted on July 10th, 2010 at 03:50 PM



We know that most turbo guys will cut more of the firewall to account for intercooler and turbo, we also wanted to show the minimum amount needed to run a high powered vw engine with a subaru box.

I am really impressed with the fit of the whole unit, a few weeks back we were very concerned about length and height. This will nearly be easier than reversing a stock box mount and moving forward 50mm, as the front intermediate mount will be similar, you do not shorten shift rod and the rear engine mount and gearbox mount is one unit. I have a seperate engine mount that attatches after the box and engine are fitted.

Looks like the superbug will be expecting an engine sooner than I expected.....with my bug getting a gearbox swap shortly after.

Matt
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posted on July 11th, 2010 at 09:31 AM



lol i see some more panels were fitted after i made my exit, missed the photo shoot :)



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posted on July 11th, 2010 at 10:09 PM



Wanna get rid of those cam covers? Let me know if you do.
Thats a great fit. Glad I haven't cut the firewall and floor of mine yet.
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posted on August 17th, 2010 at 07:30 PM



Made a video of the test buggy going down the freeway today. EJ25, entry level 5 speed box with VW cable clutch and bowden tube, 3.9 final drive ratio, 31" tall tyres

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvcGwHuaCdY




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posted on August 18th, 2010 at 04:16 PM



I am trying to make a better video than Todd :lol:

Here is my effort from my drive to work this morning.

[url] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKu0ZtXXGCk[/url] 




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posted on August 18th, 2010 at 11:43 PM



Now its time to show how tough they are :yes:



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posted on August 19th, 2010 at 06:15 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by crimson ghost
Now its time to show how tough they are :yes:


True. Other than doing burn outs have you got any other ideas to show how strong it it ?

Not sure I can spin the 31 inch tyres much anyway - maybe I am not trying hard enough :blush:




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posted on August 19th, 2010 at 11:07 PM



I've just gone through this thread and it's been a great read, with pics to boot.
Am curious about the 6 speed though ;)
cheers
D
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posted on August 19th, 2010 at 11:46 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by BlueV2
Quote:
Originally posted by crimson ghost
Now its time to show how tough they are :yes:


True. Other than doing burn outs have you got any other ideas to show how strong it it ?

Not sure I can spin the 31 inch tyres much anyway - maybe I am not trying hard enough :blush:


A higher RPM launch would be nice.
Thanks




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posted on August 20th, 2010 at 02:38 PM



I tried this morning, but had trouble holding the camera steady and launching at the same time :). ttriebler is bringing over some spy dvd sun glasses as we speak, so I will see what I can get done on the weekend.



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posted on August 20th, 2010 at 04:12 PM



OK here's the definitive answer on the 6 speed gearboxes. There are two types. Firstly there is the 6 speed STi box. This thing is 40kg heavier than our beloved 5 speed, built like a truck gearbox and doesn't fit into any VW based pan. The thing is huge. I am not and will not be doing reversed gears for it and they are completely different to the 5 speed gears.

Now, there's a second type of 6 speed out and it's in the 2010 Outback and some Forester/Liberty cars around the world. It is also behind the turbo diesel with 350nM torque from the factory. This 6 speed is a revised version of the beloved 5 speed. They changed reverse gear from a dog gear that moves on a shaft to a constant mesh gear. This made room inside the housing for an extra forward gear. So the 5 speed is now a 6 speed and incorporates all of Subaru's latest design updates and double cone carbon synchros, plus a revised case casting that has extra stiffening ribs. Interestingly it is cable operated instead of shift rod and this mechanism is interchangeable with 5 speeds.

My reversed ring and pinion bolt straight into this 6 speed. So for whoever wants to have a 6 speed just for the sake of it, you can now have your cake and eat it.




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posted on August 20th, 2010 at 05:04 PM



So when am I getting a 6 speed to test !!! LOL !!!



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posted on August 20th, 2010 at 09:03 PM



As soon as you find one!!!



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posted on August 21st, 2010 at 03:33 PM



The only thing I am pissed off about with this conversion is, that I have a swing axle floor pan :-(

Great work guys.

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posted on August 21st, 2010 at 06:13 PM



Can you get me a 5 speed thanks Toddy, also do you have paint options... i would like it Blue.

When are you coming out to the shed for another sleepless night?


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posted on August 21st, 2010 at 11:46 PM



Kev buy a pair of weld in IRS boxes and get with the program. You know your bug will handle heaps better as an IRS to boot.
Matt I picked up those widened flanges today, the blue paint on them is almost dry. Going up the shed tomorrow (Sunday?) we can give them a quick trial fit on the rig if you have time. And I can take your 180rwkw beastie out for a thrash.




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posted on August 22nd, 2010 at 11:54 PM



you get out there today and play with the flanges ?

know what im sayin
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