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Author: Subject: ej 20 computer problems Help please * braking news guys *
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posted on July 16th, 2005 at 02:41 PM


Yes thank You John



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posted on July 16th, 2005 at 10:26 PM


Braking news >>>> subaruboxer has found me a wiring diagram , the page he has sent me looks to be correct as per my pin outs , hope to soon have this machine running .

I would like to say a big thank you to Jorg for his time in hunting down a diagram & taking the time to translate the words to english for me :thumb

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posted on July 16th, 2005 at 10:34 PM


Let us know how it goes!!!!:thumbJVLRacing
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posted on July 17th, 2005 at 12:53 AM


Are we happy????

Do we need a hug????

Been there, and it causes sleep depravation.

Matt
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posted on July 17th, 2005 at 01:18 AM


Man are we happy
Do we ned a hug , Mate I give just about any thing a hug should I ( we ) get this machine to go

sleep >>>>> your not wrong there

have some emails comming though from subaruboxer , he has done a great job with the conversion to english .
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posted on July 17th, 2005 at 08:26 AM


I can't find a fault code 39????
I think you need to check that one again Neil.
Do you have voltage between the ECU and ground for a start?
Measure the voltage between the ECU connector terminal and the body when cranking the engine.
(that's B127) No-10 to the body, you should have 9 - 10 Volts min.
nn[ Edited on 16-7-2005 by speedster356 ]




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posted on July 17th, 2005 at 01:15 PM


Seagull, when it stops, is the fuel pump still running?

ie, is it stalling because the fuel pump stops...
or is it stalling because something is cutting the ignition...

does it still stall if you try to hold the throttle open?

Have you tried wiring the fuel pump straight to the battery and seeing if it starts?

are you sure the fuel pump is pumping the correctly flow and pressure when connected to the battery?
If you have a problem such as a restriction in the fuel line, it will build pressure as you turn it on, but as soon as the injectors open and let some fuel out the pressure drops and the fuel pump can't keep up - causing it to stall again.

the next thing to do is purposely cause an error code. unplug something the engine needs and checks immediately (some things only get check and logged as the engine is running, such as 02 sensors). Any solenoids (idle control or carbon cannister purge etc) are generally check immediately in diagnostic mode. Also ensure what ever you unplug you know the error code for. Then check the error code with the engine check light and make sure it matches what you've unplugged. This should tell you that at least the error codes are being shown properly, and that you are reading them properly.




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posted on July 17th, 2005 at 07:44 PM


Cheers Wes
I have a wiring diagram ( very close to what I have )

Wes I can not get it to run full stop no power at the injectors when the key is on no ecu light comes on .

I have checked the diagram to what I have ( ecu ) its so close , but some wires are not the same , I can not see how some could go in the plug as the blad is not the same size ( have not been changed )

The main problem I have is no matter what I try the main brown relay will not come on IE > latch the silver fuel pump relay from the ecu on start.then start the fuel pump and send power to the injectors .

Now if I run a power wire to the green wire on the brown relay and run an earth to the purple wire on the silver relay the motor starts for a few seconds then stops , there is still pressure in the fuel line , and power at the injectors and ecu .

I think I tryed just about all I can at this point , ideas now guys .

I need to find out why I can not get the ecu to do any thing ie start the fuel pump .

cheers seagull :jesus



My fuel pump pressure is 35 psi at the injectors > is this to heigh ??? I am using a VL holden pump with a return to tank .




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posted on July 17th, 2005 at 09:07 PM


ARRRRRRRRRR , well I just when out to the shed with a crown larger to have a good cry >

looking at the ecu diagram I seen a yellow wire that was to power ? I have a power connected all ready ?
so what the hell is this ?????? > connected the yellow wire hit the key fuel pump come on ?? 3 seconds off ?? looks good me think , hit the key , my GOD its alive !! bugger me its running now in the shed
will see for how long , back soon seagull :kiss




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posted on July 17th, 2005 at 09:24 PM


:bounce:rudolf:beer:thumb:P:sandrineJVLRacing
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posted on July 17th, 2005 at 10:05 PM


:dork::thumb:thumb



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posted on July 17th, 2005 at 10:12 PM


So far its starts first hit of the key now .

My rpm signal wire is not doing anything this may be the wrong wire > i do not have a diagram for this one ???

I will get some more run time after work tomorrow and try to sort the rpm wire out .

I would like to say a big thank you again to Subaruboxer ( Jorg ) .With out his help in driving down to the subaru dealer in Germany and asking for a copy of the wiring diagram , then convert it to english I would not have got the ecu fired up at all .

To all others thanks for your imput and assistance , seagull Neil




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posted on July 18th, 2005 at 12:02 AM


whoo hoo thats good news!!! :thumb



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posted on July 18th, 2005 at 12:12 AM


Nice work Neil, told you that relay was the key.

Really glad she works...sometimes seems like it never will.

Matt:starhit:
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posted on July 18th, 2005 at 12:47 AM


Matt , I was almost ready to throw the towel in I can tell you .

I had no chance to find it as it would appear the the guy who did the revamp of the wiring for me in the east had removed it .I think he may of thought it came from the subaru auto ( as it did ) BUT it when to the relay as well .

thanks for you time on the phone today Matt , seagull neil




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posted on July 18th, 2005 at 07:16 AM


Great stuff Neil. Was it the Crown Larger that did it?
:beer




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posted on July 18th, 2005 at 10:30 AM


beer fixes everything!



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posted on July 18th, 2005 at 10:37 AM


Everybody have a Beer for Seagull !!!! hooray !!!

good stuff mate. Bet it sounds nice with you custom stainless exhaust :)
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posted on July 18th, 2005 at 10:13 PM


yes and its still running !



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posted on July 19th, 2005 at 09:38 AM


That's great news!!
Just make sure you modify your wiring diagram to match what you have now for future reference.
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posted on July 20th, 2005 at 12:34 AM


yes will do Jenny .

Well I was trying to work out my RPM set up last night , started the motor had it just ticking over all very good , gave it a rev and the three bolts holding the converter snapped !

I shit my self with a racket it made !

So pulled the motor out, flex plate damaged in the three bolts holes .I looked for the problem and found the bolts for the flex plate were grade 4 ?? what the hell are these ? These should be 8.8 or 12.9 .I also did some checking and found they were also 2 mm to long and hiting the bottom of the lugs on the converter .
So now in more shit than the first settlers trying to get hold of a flex plate to put back together again .
It never ends , seagull




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posted on July 20th, 2005 at 08:19 AM


To much:beer:PIts all trial an error.JVLRacing
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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 10:39 AM


with bolts you have imperial grades, like grade 5, grade 8, etc.

Then metric you have property classes like 4.6, 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 etc

They are quite different, and as with other imperial things they don't make sense. Like imperial grade 5 is roughly the same as metric 8.8.

But the metric grades roughly make sense. The first part of the number is roughly the tensile strength in hundreds of MPa and the second number is the proportion of that tensile strength to find the yield strength.

So 4.6 is ~400MPa tensile strength with 400x0.6 = 240Mpa yeild strength. So that pretty crap and is like something you buy at the hard-ware.

It's a huge difference to 8.8 with is ~800MPa tensile and 640MPa yeild strength. Or 10.9 = 1000 & 900MPa.

So it's pretty obvious why they were simply sheared off. You need to pay attention to your bolts :)




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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 02:49 PM


:cry dude I know your pain.



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posted on July 24th, 2005 at 12:27 AM


more to the piont Wes they were shiny so being a SEAGULL I picked them up , now have it all back in and sounds good , no bang ( yet )

I need a flex plate for atype three auto if any one has one , please give a yell .




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posted on July 24th, 2005 at 01:22 AM


Guys is the a page on how to reset the stock ecu with the plugs , and a listing of fault codes ?

like what ones to put together first .

should the fault light stay on all the time ? not flashing just on ?

cheers seagull




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posted on July 24th, 2005 at 10:39 AM


http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co.uk/Scooby%20Page/ECU%20Diag%20Page.htm 
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posted on July 24th, 2005 at 09:07 PM


Thanks jenny .

I sill have this red light on the dash > plug the black plugs in , 3 short flashes followed by 9 long flashes & no I have not been driking or smoking any thing .

Lost again !

may be I should drink some thing , may find the problem again :)




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posted on July 24th, 2005 at 09:43 PM


I am still not able to get the VDO RPM gauge to work , ideas ?



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posted on July 24th, 2005 at 09:59 PM


Welcome to my world....wiring problems, motor in and out 3 times this week with the new clutch(sorted..thanks Mike), and my VDO tach is still not working either.....some have no problems or hurdles(wipe that stupid smile off your face Rizzo) and others clip every one...

I can hear the purists....."you wouldnt have had those problems if you had stuck with vw motor"

Although I wouldnt have 200+hp at the wheels either.

Not far now Neil, ride the waves out and the car gods will have to smile on our next projects.

Matt
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