| [ Total Views: 14713 | Total Replies: 154 | Thread Id: 85938 ] |
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 General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on October 20th, 2010 at 09:44 AM |
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I would like to say for the record, Hurf Durf!
My brain kicked into 1st and I remembered where to put the chains to drop my type 4. The hole in teh case split near the flywheel, as previously
stated, and... the moustache bar! Forehead slap moment. I haven't done it yet because it's a bit slow going with a nearly-one-year-old boy to look
after, but I've just about got the towbar and bumper off. Easy? For you maybe, but I bet you still have captive nuts, not standard nuts combined with
narrow rectangular holes a PO or mechanic thoughtfully ground into the side of the frame on each side for access, making it pathetically weak.
Anyhow I stopped shy at three bolts because I could only find one axle stand. Once a person has a VW bumper and towbar fall on their head once, it
becomes a priority not to let it happen again!
I'm going to strip off the peripheral tins after that, then drive it up on to ramps. Then I have to drain the oil (with a half hour of use on it!) so
I can remove that bloody oil filler tube.
My valence is staying put by the way. I would love to do it, but it just isn't quite as strong after it has been done and the back of a bay isn't
fantastically rigid. It might also flex more when towing. yeah, I have towed with my bay, with a VW engine. Not going to be towing the 7x5 as seen in
the pic though. It's enough to overpower a Windsor when empty!
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on October 23rd, 2010 at 09:57 AM |
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I finally have the VW motor out. It put up a real fight for some reason. After that I called it a day. So of course today is pouring rain, and I have
a VW on ramps with no back window and no way of moving it. ARGH!
If the back window were in, I'd just open the back hatch for a nice bit of shelter, give the bellhousing a desperately needed scrub, and shove the
EA81 in. No matter what it's going to be a dodge install at first. My D bolt wasn't a D bolt. It was a smaller diameter, really long bolt with a
hardware store washer on it. I wonder when that happened.
I don't have engine mounts yet either. Buuut the hoist is borrowed and I want to give it back ASAP. It is also the only time I should need heavy
equipment.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on October 23rd, 2010 at 04:14 PM |
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The motor is in! ...more or less. After a lot of %^$%ing around it went in. After some more I discovered that the right nuts and bolts for the
bellhousing were included.
The rear engine mounts currently consist of the towbar sitting abreast the inspection hatch with a couple of ratcheting tie downs attached to it and
the moustache bar.
Some of the wires have been connected and the cooling system hasn't been done yet. I still have to tweak some stuff on the engine to make sure it's
all good. The free floating alternator bracket is a bit weird and needs further investigation.
The alternator still needs to be connected. I think the alternator is internally regulated but this has to be checked.
I still need to reconnect the fuel hose going from the pump to the regulator. I got the shits with it and cut it off with secateurs when I was pulling
the motor.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on October 23rd, 2010 at 09:48 PM |
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good work. how bout some pics eh?
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on October 24th, 2010 at 06:15 AM |
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Will do. I was going to take photos of the type4 removal and subie installation but it would have made people quite squeamish.
I should be able to duck out soonish to take a pic or two. I'm also facing a big problem. I have to take it of the ramps in the next couple of days
when I do the cleanup for the kids' Halloween party and my son's 1st b'day. Taking it off should be easy. I just need to nudge it with the starter.
Getting it back up later is another problem entirely. It's hard for me to work underneath without ramps. I'm pretty deep chested. I actually got
caught in the engine bay hatch yesterday. Being jammed by the ribs is very unpleasant.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on October 24th, 2010 at 09:20 AM |
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Oops. left the camera outside. I came in because I'm a bit confused. That and working on the motor and keeping a baby entertained are pretty much
mutually exclusive.
I have patched most of the cooling system together. I just want it good enough that I can get it off the ramps, then back on next week. I'll probably
just strap the rad to the undercarriage for now because I have to clearance a hole in the crossmember and drill lots of holes. Don;t have time right
now.
My problem is the alternator. i found this: http://aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=56697 but really need more info. There was a relay included with all the stuff
which i pretty much ignored thinking it was for the thermo fans. Today I realised it has the same wiring as the stubs on the alternator. From my
cursory observations It looks like the main charging wire (black and yellow) goes into the relay along with a long white wire and a short white wire.
There is also a really short grey wire with a ring connector.
I'll have to study it a bit more to figure out what's connected to which relay terminal but I think I can assume this:
The chunk of thick black and yellow wire is the same wire that goes to the alternator. It was cut near the alt.
the short grey wire with the ring terminal is earth and probably was screwed in behind the relay. This would be the switching output.
The two white wires are different lengths. Both have spade connectors. One male, one female. They are a lighter gage than the black and yellow one. No
idea where these go.
i would be fine to start and move it without the battery charging, but I know the alternator wouldn't be, and I can't leave the belt off because I
need the water pump. Help?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on October 24th, 2010 at 09:36 AM |
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I'll just tack something one here. Gregory's says "An electrical cut out unit is not necessary with the alternator charging system as the diodes
prevent a reverse current flow through the alternator."
So... ?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Joel
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| posted on October 24th, 2010 at 10:30 AM |
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There shouldn't really be a relay connected to the alternator.
What you may find is it actually is for the thermo fans and whoever wired it up is just taking power from the alternator to do this
Nearly all subi alternators wire up similarly
the bolt on post terminal is the B+ that goes to the battery, a single wire for the charge light and power supply wire for the internal regulator.
On the EJ alts like I have this is only live on ignition, but the EA maybe live all the time
for the sake of moving it around the yard the alt will be fine spinning with none of the wires hooked up
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on October 24th, 2010 at 10:50 AM |
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I see, I see. Thanks for that.
I managed to sneak a quick look at the back of it a few minutes ago. I saw the post terminal with the wires on it. There is also one of those T shaped
two spade connector bits, with the connector still in it. Seems I have to find out what they are. Worst case it's an unregulated alternator. If
that's the case I think the output is about the same as the VW alternator so I might be able to use the same reg. I'll have to check it all out.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Joel
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| posted on October 24th, 2010 at 11:15 AM |
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Externally regulated alternators died out in the 70s.
Those T connectors are pretty well standard across the jap alternator range
Looking at EA alt wiring the T connector has a light guage wire usually white or yellow which is the warning light and a heavier gauge one which is
the voltage sensor wire
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on October 24th, 2010 at 03:17 PM |
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I see. I'll have to find the right subie diagram for that. Anyhow, I connected most of it up, bodged together the cooling system, gave it fluids and
kicked it in the guts. Once the fuel system was primed it fired up. During cranking it sounded like one cylinder had higher compression for some
reason. A little smoke but I knew about that. A slight miss too but no real issues.
I thought there was a problem with the clutch. It's really easy to push. The one on the type 4 motor is pretty brutal.
Even though I hadn't connected the accelerator cable I could move it. It seems to pull just fine. Wasn't going to run it very long because the
thermo fans aren't connected yet.
Some photos:
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on October 24th, 2010 at 09:46 PM |
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Inane Cathode
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| posted on October 25th, 2010 at 02:55 AM |
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Haha, fantastic. I havent seen an ea engine for a while since my dad quit buying old gls. Those engines are great, underpowered, but great! They were
kinda pokey in a gl wagon how much of a boost over stock hp did you say it was? I take it you're /not/ going to be keeping the spare tire on top of
the engine then? 
Let me be the first to say this, but, what a freaking pain in the ass with all those silly inspections you guys have to do down there. Talking to
engineers, umpteen certificates, yikes! Where i live, i dont even have to get emissions inspections let alone engineering certificates done up. I
could put a northstar cadillac engine in the bug and noone would bat an eye.
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pete wood
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| posted on October 25th, 2010 at 07:55 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Inane Cathode
I could put a northstar cadillac engine in the bug and noone would bat an eye.
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go on then, I dare you 
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Inane Cathode
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| posted on October 25th, 2010 at 03:11 PM |
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Well, let me clarify. There would be a lot of eye batting, but noone would/could legally challenge it, nor would it take any kind of permission asking
or kowtowing to the yokle government about it 
I dont know why you would want to do a northstar, anyway, car is /waaaay/ too light for that to be remotely tractable.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on October 25th, 2010 at 06:42 PM |
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I checked Gregory's. It said 65HP for a 1.8L type4 which is what I pulled out. The EA81 is 73HP. Torque is about the same from what I can understand.
So it gets me 3 HP up over a stock FI 2L Type4.
Since I got this bay maybe 11 years ago it has slowly transformed. It used to be auto and dual carb. then it got a 002 from a 1600, then it got a
weber progressive, and now it has an EA81 from a 1600 conversion. which reminds me and I say it again: Does anyone know where I can get the
moustache bar brackets and rubbers? Those tiedowns wouldn't exactly be RTA approved.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on November 5th, 2010 at 06:50 AM |
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Where I'm at:
I can start it and run it. the alternator works. My throttle cable isn't properly routed. Thermo fans are unknown functionality. The carb had a bent
linkage which was closing the choke when the throttle was opening. I fixed that. It has a manual choke  I'm trying to find a Weber adapter cheap.
No engine mounts still!! This is starting to get to me. I can find the rubbers but no-one seems to have the brackets.
There's a VDO temperature gauge pulled from a truck taped to the air cleaner to give a rough indicator of what's going on.
I still haven't figured out how to mount the coolant tank. Might be a trip to Bunnings for that next time I'm south of the border.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on November 5th, 2010 at 02:50 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Inane Cathode
Well, let me clarify. There would be a lot of eye batting, but noone would/could legally challenge it, nor would it take any kind of permission asking
or kowtowing to the yokle government about it
I dont know why you would want to do a northstar, anyway, car is /waaaay/ too light for that to be remotely tractable.
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la la la la la.... do it! I dare you! go on, do it!
no more girly excuses
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on November 7th, 2010 at 07:37 AM |
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I'm sick again so no real progress. Next up is pulling the thermo fan thermostat back out because I forgot to check it worked before putting it in.
No big issue there. Been trying to figure out where all the bits used to be mounted on the donor bus. Tricky work.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
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| posted on November 15th, 2010 at 07:34 PM |
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I got the engine mounts today and installed them. I decided to run it for a while.
Really smoking, running rough, and dripping oil from the bottom of the bellhousing on to the exhaust. It's up on ramps, back end up. I don't recall
it dripping before. Hmm. I'm a little worried. What bothers me is the smell of the oil. My sniffer isn;t great but it reminded me a bit of tranny
oil.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on November 16th, 2010 at 12:17 PM |
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Engine mounts are on. I just used some bog standard metric bolts and nylock nuts from the local bearing / bolt / welding / motorbike / misc place.
The accelerator cable is kind of bodged together for now. It doesn't have a strong enough return spring though.
the oil leak seems to have just been from the oil pan and running around and down the bellhousing. No biggie.
I need a little advice with the thermo fan thermostat. Judging from the voltage rating its for some kind of household application. Anyway the knob on
the control box clicks when its turned all the way anticlockwise. Is that always off or always on? It was in the clicked position. yes I know I have
to pull it off again to do the adjustment and make sure it's all good. I'm just curious what that setting is.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on November 17th, 2010 at 07:57 AM |
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Running on three and super rich. Just like before I re-jetted the Weber on the Type 4. Round and round I go. At least there is no worrying top end
noise  I also noticed that it doesn't hold steady revs. It wavers up and
down slowly, although I guess running on three cylinders doesn't help.
So much choking smoke. Blech. I need to go through and give it a thorough tune.
There is one thing that concerns me. The coil is getting hot. This is the same coil I had on the type 4, and the wiring hasn't changed in any
discernible way either. Could points being really out of whack cause this? I'm a bit uncertain.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on November 17th, 2010 at 12:39 PM |
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coils get hot. don't stress too much about that. turning 12v into 10,000v will do that.
Sounds like a stupid qu, but are the plug leads on the right cylinders? Can't happen and it will run, but not well.
btw, I'd seriously consider a rear main seal and water pump change before you get it all together for the last time. good insurance on all subaru
motors as I understand it.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on November 17th, 2010 at 04:57 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by pete wood
coils get hot. don't stress too much about that. turning 12v into 10,000v will do that.
Sounds like a stupid qu, but are the plug leads on the right cylinders? Can't happen and it will run, but not well.
btw, I'd seriously consider a rear main seal and water pump change before you get it all together for the last time. good insurance on all subaru
motors as I understand it.
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That's good advice, but the motor is in. I'm not pulling that out for quite a while. Water pump I can do any time thankfully. It's right at the
front of the motor. As in furthest end from the flywheel.
I haven't checked the spark plug order. I think it's right though.
I pulled the plugs and put in a fresh set of correct ones. Number ...err ...Whatever the one that is in #3 position on a VW was really gunky and had
not been firing. The rest were black. This is all waaaaay too familiar. Absolutely identical to what I went through with the Weber on the type 4
recently.
Instead of stuffing around, while it was running I just kept winding the idle mixture screw down until it hit the stop. Near the stop there was a
marginal improvement in its running and a reduction in smoke.
So my choices are to keep f'ing with this Hitachi or put the Weber on which I have done all this, replaced parts and rejetted already.
I'll try a baseline adjustment on the Hitachi tomorrow or something and see what happens. It's possible the throttle plate is too far open or
something. Either that or the fuel reg has taken a dump again. I'll really have to put the pressure gauge back on. I forgot to do it today.
I want to do the points and timing but the lack of timing marks on the flywheel like OE has me scratching my head a little. About all I can think of
is to put a strobe on it, see what the nick on the crank pulley lines up with, hope it's kind of right and work from there.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on November 18th, 2010 at 10:47 AM |
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Well, the Hitachi is pretty messed up. Mixture screw does SFA, I had to turn the throttle plate screw over a turn before it did anything. There was a
vacuum leak from a disconnected stepdown plug thing. It's on the same circuit as the coasting bypass vale and the power valve. Hit the carb with carb
cleaner and got heaps of carbon crap off it. Fuel pressure is fine at a bit over 2psi. Yanking that vacuum line so it sucks heaps of air stops the
smoke and ups the revs. No real surprise there.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on December 18th, 2010 at 04:30 PM |
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G'day.
Mostly been battling with that motor and cleaning things up.
I decided to start preps to mount the radiator properly.
Long story short, I can't. There's a big pipe in the way near the frame rail on the right hand side. Wiring maybe? I had a bit of a look and kind of
got a bit frustrated and gave up for the day. Didn't feel like lyiong in a big pool of water to figure it out,. It's a Camira radiator.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline
Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on December 21st, 2010 at 10:52 AM |
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The radiator! She doesn't fit! Absolutely everything is in the way. Every tube, brake line etc. and even if I did something drastic like cutting the
side tabs off the radiator the thermo fans would be crushed flat by being pushed into the clutch cable tube and friends. I don't get it. Ideas
anyone? I can just barely get the radiator to hook in by the top of the tabs (when lying flat) so most of the rad is below the frame line. Tilting it
is impossible unless I tear out absolutely everything in the undercarriage which obviously isn't going to happen.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline
Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on January 4th, 2011 at 02:32 PM |
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline
Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on January 6th, 2011 at 12:33 PM |
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On a roll here. besides the pretty rainbow water, i found out today that both thermo fans are stuffed. one is seized and the other the fan freewheels
on the shaft.
I pulled the rad out to grind the notch out to fit around the wiring harness tube and found more than I bargained for. I think I can make a good fan
from the two. Anyone recognise them and know where I can get another?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline
Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on January 28th, 2011 at 08:27 AM |
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Because I've been stuck and have only been doing minor things my thoughts turned to heat buildup in the engine bay. I have heard this is problematic.
What are people's experiences with it?
This has lead me to think about making some tinware for the motor. nothing as elaborate as VW, or as well sealed because that would be a disaster.
More like something to help deflect heat from the exhaust and work as a splash/ stone guard mostly up the front.
What do people think of this? Is there another way? I'm just not fond of the idea of the vehicle being stationary and slowly barbecuing everything
near the engine bay.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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