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 Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on September 5th, 2015 at 09:25 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bevelhead
Great ongoing build mate, i enjoy seeing your engineering solutions every month or so when i check back on progress 
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Thank you for the kind words 
Got a little bit done in the last few days.
Got to work mounting up the dual handle cutting brakes. I cut the front of the mount frame off and left it bolded to the arm pivot. And then put
everything in place on the pan so I could work out how it's going to fit.
Made up some mounting plates for the cylinders which will be welded o the tunnel.
Next up I dug out the handbrake that I will be using to check clearances. Going to be tight. I had to move the cutting handles forward a touch on the
tunnel and notch the underside of the handbrake out a bit. But it all fits and the handbrake works like normal. You can see I will have to trim the
handles back a little as the left side one doesn't clear the gearstick anymore with them moved forward on the tunnel.
And here is everything in place and welded up. I made some extended pushrods by welding a pair of nuts onto the head of some bolts I got to suit the
length. The fit is all very good and All the handles work as they should. I'm thinking I might cut the handbrake length down a bit to give more room
to grab the ends of the cutting handles.
Next up flip the pan over again so we can finally get onto mounting the stuff in the tunnel.
I started from the back and worked forward. Welding in the stauff clamps for the aircon lines first up.
Once we got up under the pedals I cleaned everything up and added a few strengthening plates across the seam where I welded the framehead on. Should
be super strong now! Then the lines could be looped around the pedals. I cut the hook off the clutch pedal to give some more room, and stop it rubbing
on the hoses.
I also added a doubler plate on the framehead where the bulkhead fittings are coming through.
Then I welded the plates to the other side of the tunnel for the oil hoses. And the smaller ones below this for the fuel hardline.
I ordered some sexy AN fittings for the fuel hardlines. I drilled the lift kit at the back for the bulkheads. Sorry about the shoddy picture, the pan
was still upside down. You can still get an idea of where they exit out the back.
Last thing I got down was to drill holes along the tunnel and weld nuts onto the inside. These are for the clamps that will hold my brake and clutch
hardlines in place. The brake is on the right of the tunnel and the clutch down the left. You can see the spots along the tunnel where I buffed the
paint off. I need to get some shorter bolts though, cause the ones I have stick into the tunnel too far where some of the hoses are going to be.
I also discover that my floorpan can stand up all by itself, even with the gearbox bolted into it
Things are getting a little busy up the back here. I still have to add a new accelerator cable tube too. But I am confident that everything will fit!
I still need to work out some way of sealing the shift linkage to the floorpan where it comes through the lift. Does anyone have any good ideas for
this??
Lastly, I bought a new second battery for the car. This one will be dedicated to running the fridge and camp lights. Whereas the other will be for
most everything else.
Still a few things I need to do in the tunnel before I paint it up and weld it shut again. Mostly fitting the front bulkheads fittings and making up
the oil hoses and fuel lines. And adding the new accelerator tube. In addition to this I have picked up my rear guards which have been repaired, as
well as the engine scoop. The front guards that I had widened turned out to be rubbish So I have taken another set to a different guy that has been
doing my glasswork and he is widening them for me again.
Still heaps to do but things are falling into place slowly.
Thanks for looking.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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bevelhead
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on September 21st, 2015 at 11:24 PM |
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For sealing your linkage you could try a round linear bearing or a marine bulkhead seal, bit over the top but it would make the shift slop free
http://www.linearbearings.com.au/products/linear-round-shaft-series/linear-ba...
http://www.pacificmarine.net/engineering/shaft-seal-systems.htm
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on October 14th, 2015 at 11:52 PM |
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Hey mate. I only just saw that you had posted. Both of those seals look great only issue is that because the shift is angled where it goes through the
pan neither of those will work. It would be perfect for a stock setup where the shifter goes straight though.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 12:24 AM |
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I haven't worked on the car for a few weeks. Spent a week at Fraser and then down south for Warwick VW drags etc.
But prior to that I got a bunch of stuff done.
Firstly I got a care package from USA. Porsche CVs!! Thanks Rich!
Then I got to work mounting up the stainless hardlines I had made. And fitting up the bulkheads where they come out the front and back of the pan.
Unfortunately I measured a tiny bit short and the clutch line didn't quite reach. I had to have to remade about 50mm longer. I had the same issues
with the brake line to the cutting brake. But was able to fix this with a banjo that has a longer end.
Next up I fitted the new accelerator cable tube into the tunnel. And welded in the last hose mount plates.
Then I started making and fitting up the new fuel hardlines for in the tunnel.
Once that was done I did another trial fit of everything to see that it all clears and fits around the shift rod etc.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 12:42 AM |
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I soon discovered a new issue that I had created.
It was impossible to get the shift rod out through all the hoses to change the bushing.
So I went and got a new gearstick tunnel piece off a spare scrap pan I have.
And cut the original shift hole out of the tunnel.
I welded flat bar around the perimeter of this new hole and made the tunnel piece into a cover/removable shifter bushing. Very much like what a Type 3
has.
Then I had another issue. I could now remove the shift rod out the top of the tunnel. But it would hit the firewall inside the car before it came all
the way out of the tunnel. Easily fixed, just cut it in half!!
I welded a nut into one side and a bolt into the other. A locknut holds it all in place. This allows me to break it in half, but also gives me a
little length adjustability and I am able to rotate the splined end to wherever I want it too.
So the new shift bush replacement instructions are to disconnect the linkage. And remove the gearstick and then the shifter plate.
Pull the shift rod out and crack the locknut.
And then unscrew the front half and change the bushing. Simple!
Got my new clutch line back. Right length this time!!
Made the line up to the master cylinder.
[
This line was fixed with the longer banjo.
And started making up some of the rear lines.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 01:13 AM |
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I was trying to get all of the welding on the pan finished off that needed doing. Next up was the battery, solenoid and compressor mounts.
I picked up some good rubber matting to put under the batteries. And I cut some bit of angle to weld to the pan to stop them moving around. I put 2 on
each battery on diagonally opposite corners.
Next I fitted a cut down piece of angle to the tunnel for the dual battery solenoid.
Then I welded on a couple of tabs that I drilled and tapped for my battery hold downs. Cut some more angle to use as the strap. Just need to get some
bolts and it's ready to go. I will probably also add some rubber between the strap and battery too.
Then I made up a little frame for my ARB compressor that will be going next to the battery. Took me a little while to get the height and fit right but
it all looks sweet now and fits perfectly next to the battery.
Next stop was the front beam. I added plates front and back to both beam tubes. This is where the beam support will bolt on. And where the front
barwork will bolt to in the future.
Unfortunately I cooked my inner beam bushings while doing this so they had to come out. Took a bit but I got there with the slide hammer
eventually.
I fitted the outer bearings and assembled the suspension so I could cycle it for the stops.
I cut a hole in the plate and welded a cut up rear swinger snubber mount on to the plate. So I will be running rear snubbers on the front too. Added a
gusset plate. to the back too. I don't seem to have taken many pictures of this. I'm not sure if I like this setup yet. I might cut it all off and
change it yet...
I cut and ground the hole in the front of the framehead as big as I can. Not I can fit my whole arm in there. Not sure if I can with the beam on
though.
Fitted up my rear support frame and cut the tubes down to the new length needed and welded them on.
Put a plate in to block the last gap between the torsion housing and lift.
Filled in this stupid idea of a hole under the rear torsion housing. All bugs have this, I'm not sure why but it does a great job of letting crap
into your tunnel. I welded a little plate over it.
Rewelded the hooks onto the outer edge of the pan. And plated them up too. I will probably add an extra plate between the torsion housing and the pan
too.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 01:32 AM |
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Time to seal the tunnel up! Started by making up some plates to cover it up. I decided to do it in three pieces. One weird shaded piece at the back,
the main longer piece along the tunnel and the large one up the front that is also the base fro the framehead. I staggered the front join in a
different spot to where the framehead has been welded to the tunnel for maximum strength. I'm using the same 2.1mm checkerplate that my floorhalves
are made from.
Then the inside of the tunnel was buffed, ground, wirewheeled etc until I had it as clean as possible. Then I painted it all with weld-through
primer.
Next up I fitted all the hoses and lines. I added a drop of medium strength Loctite to the clamp bolts. Hopefully it all stays there for a very long
time.
I added some flatbar across the tunnel where the 3 plates were going to join each other for some extra support.
Then the painstakingly slow process of welding it all in. I first painted the inside edge of the plates with primer too. I also fitted them with the
'checks' facing inside the tunnel to give a completely smooth underside.
I welded very small sections at a time and worked my way round and round the plates. I didn't want to cook any of my hoses.
The end result is super tidy. So smooth under there now, nothing to get caught up on. And I think I picked up about 5mm more ground clearance as it
doesn't bulge out quite as much as the stock one with the cross hatches on it.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 01:51 AM |
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I added these plates to the lower tubes so I can make up the beam supports.
Welded on. I'm planning to add a triangle gusset plate that runs up to the upper edge of the lift kit.
Front end all assembled. It's a roller! I ended up using those stupid red urethane beam bushes for the time being. All I can say is they are the
worst, shitest, most annoying wastes of time ever invented. Never use these things. I will be changing back to needle rollers bearings when I have
time.
Rack fitted up. Put boots on it but still have to do an alignment yet.
On to the back. Started bolting everything on.
We have a rolling pan people!! Very happy with how it is sitting. But I certainly need to go up to 33s on the back. The front is a touch higher.
I just need to blow the bags up a little and put the upper bolts in.
Fitting up all the clutch and brake lines.
Pedals are all sorted.
Gearbox got new seals, caps, side adjuster locks etc.
I fitted up the handbrake and adjusted the cables. But I am not happy with the late model pivot plate on the tp of it. When you pull up on the cutting
brake handles they hit it. I'm not sure if it is going to be an issue once there is pressure in the system, the handles might not come up as far. But
I think I will piss it off and make something different.
And then I had to throw the body on the pan and move it out of the way to do some work on my dad's bug. I'm very happy with the way it is looking.
Nice and massive!!
Anyone else's bug clear a bucket?
That's all for now everyone, thanks for reading. I'm hoping to get stuck back in after this swing of work.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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grazza7755
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 05:31 AM |
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Simply amazing
What great creativity and great work.
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adlbeetle66
A.k.a.: Denver
Custom Title Time!
Under the car.........again!
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 07:43 AM |
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X2. Amazing Car!! Do you think you can get it out the roller door?? 
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bevoracing
A.k.a.: Tony Beven
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 08:51 AM |
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Hi Daniel
I noticed your quote “I ended up using those stupid red urethane beam bushes”. Funny you should say that, I had the same issue.
A bloke bought me a beam with no bushes and a set of the full length (both inner & outer bushes in 1 piece) urethane trailing arm bushes to
install. After cleaning up all the damage in the beam, from removal of the old bushes, I found these things just wouldn’t go in. They were way
too big.
The bloke was still keen so we bought another set, they were exactly the same. Ended up pressing them over a mandrel and grinding the outer diameter
in a lathe until it was round and to the correct size. Hell of a job.
NEVER again. Acetate (black bearing plastic) bushes are the way to go, easy & cheap to make, work properly, don’t squeak. The off road blokes
have been using them for years. I’m with you, urethane is crap for this job. (That should get a few responses)
Cheers
Tony
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bevoracing
A.k.a.: Tony Beven
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 09:22 AM |
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Can anyone see the 2 photos attached to that last post of mine?? Please someone let me know.
I can see they're attached in the "edit" mode but I can't see them. This happens often, some threads I can't see attached photos (linked photos
are OK) while other people can. If I log on with another person's computer I still can't see them, seems to be my profile? This forum has some
very strange issues.
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mackaymanx
A.k.a.: Brent
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 10:33 AM |
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They are visible
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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bevoracing
A.k.a.: Tony Beven
Officially Full-On Dubber
Posts: 326
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Registered: January 18th, 2009
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Location: Mount Pleasant SA
Theme: UltimaBB Vintage
Mood: Leaning against the shed wall !.
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 11:02 AM |
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So I go to "Test it out here" same photo, same network connection, same day, and I can see that one.
Admin, WTF is going on????????????????????????
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 07:05 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by grazza7755
Simply amazing
What great creativity and great work.
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Thanks mate.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by adlbeetle66
X2. Amazing Car!! Do you think you can get it out the roller door??
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They are 3m doors, I should be safe 
| Quote: | Originally
posted by bevoracing
Hi Daniel
I noticed your quote “I ended up using those stupid red urethane beam bushes”. Funny you should say that, I had the same issue.
A bloke bought me a beam with no bushes and a set of the full length (both inner & outer bushes in 1 piece) urethane trailing arm bushes to
install. After cleaning up all the damage in the beam, from removal of the old bushes, I found these things just wouldn’t go in. They were way
too big.
The bloke was still keen so we bought another set, they were exactly the same. Ended up pressing them over a mandrel and grinding the outer diameter
in a lathe until it was round and to the correct size. Hell of a job.
NEVER again. Acetate (black bearing plastic) bushes are the way to go, easy & cheap to make, work properly, don’t squeak. The off road blokes
have been using them for years. I’m with you, urethane is crap for this job. (That should get a few responses)
Cheers
Tony
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Hey mate. I can see your pictures fine.
I know what you mean about the bushes. I had to hammer them into the beam. And then fitting the arms was an even harder job. It's just a shitty half
measure solution in my opinion. Surely it isn't that hard to measure a beam and make stuff to fit inside of it.
I have ordered new micarta bushings and needle roller bearings which are on their way. But I will probably drive it for a bit with the red ones and
change them when I pull the car down for paint.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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jobie
Slammed & Awesome Dubber
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 07:21 PM |
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Did I see an episode of Mega Structures feature this car?
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on October 15th, 2015 at 08:20 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by jobie
Did I see an episode of Mega Structures feature this car?
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Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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bevelhead
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on October 21st, 2015 at 01:46 AM |
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Awesome work! its going to be a tuff looking rig 
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baghall
Custom Title Time!
Ben Hal Outlaw Bushranger
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| posted on October 30th, 2015 at 09:29 PM |
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Wow Smiley the fabrication and engineering just keeps on going, but with all that extra weight is it still gonna be any good on the sand?
68 Baja - It's a growing pain!
58 Baja ute - and the pain spreads!
85 T3 Kombi - still growing
89 T3 Kombi - parts car
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
Posts: 2125
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| posted on October 31st, 2015 at 07:22 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by baghall
Wow Smiley the fabrication and engineering just keeps on going, but with all that extra weight is it still gonna be any good on the sand?
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Of course it will! She is still way way lighter than any 4WD!
And will be especially good once I sort my engine upgrade down the track 
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Bone
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on November 6th, 2015 at 07:59 AM |
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| Quote: |
Of course it will! She is still way way lighter than any 4WD!
And will be especially good once I sort my engine upgrade down the track
Smiley
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Subaru ?????
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
Posts: 2125
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| posted on November 6th, 2015 at 08:23 AM |
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| Quote: | | Quote: | | Quote: | Originally
posted by Bone
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Of course it will! She is still way way lighter than any 4WD!
And will be especially good once I sort my engine upgrade down the track
Smiley
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Subaru ?????
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I said upgrade, not downgrade!!
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
Posts: 2125
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| posted on November 11th, 2015 at 08:29 PM |
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I had to pick up some slightly shorter bolts for my airbags as the ones I had were bottoming in the holes. Getting them in was a little bit of a paint
with the suspension assembled. But I got there in the end with a chain over the shock tower and jacked up the rear suspension to compress it a little.
Then I used a screwdriver through the frame to guide the bad into place while a pumped a little air into them with an air gun. Once I had one bolt in
the second one was easy.
While the body was off I had to finish the fuel tank frame off.
Here is the rear tank frame that I had in the car previously. It raised the tank up off the rear shelf a little with the two feet and the back edge
was bolted through the firewall. I'm basically going to build the new frame the same as this but out of 25mm box steel instead of angle.
New frame made up. But then I ran into some fitment issues. On the old frame I trimmed the inside edge of the angle so the frame was only as wide as
the tank. On this one I couldn't do that with the box so it ended up being wider. And doesn't quite fit in between the wheel wells.
I trimmed the outside edge off the box to suit. The gap between the wheel wells is tapered towards the back so they are cut on an angle to match.
Once I got the frame where I wanted it I marked out where I had to cut the floor to match. (unfortunately I ended up cutting slightly too much)
The body was back on the car by this point so I could check clearances etc. The frame is a nice tight fit and takes a few taps with a soft hammer to
get it into place. Here it is with the fuel tank sitting in place.
And you can see here I have JUST enough clearance to bleed the hydraulic clutch.
Before welding it into the car I had to add some nuts to the inside of the frame to hold the tank down. I also opted to add a few along the back edge
of the frame that faces the firewall. I can use these to mount rubber or engine sealing tins etc.
This picture shows the little plates I made with nut on them. I cut sections out of the frame and welded these in for the mounting nuts. For the ones
along the back edge I used angle that did both the tank nuts and rear firewall nuts.
Body is back off the car now so I can weld the frame out. I guess this is what it is like to have one of those lowered bugs?
I have been taking little projects out to work with me that I can do when I have some spare time. One of them is this.
I bought some 4mm shock cord and tied it into a sort of cargo style net. It was measured up to fit in the roof of the car. I'm planning to use this
to store light stuff like pillows and towels etc. And the roof of the bug has enough room with no headliner that it shouldn't be in the way of my
view out the rear window at all. These cars are pretty small so I am always looking at ways to use the space that is available.
As for the mounts I simply used 6mm nutserts along the top edge of the roof. And used 6mm wire ring terminals with the yellow plastic cut off and the
net tied through them. Cheap and simple. I still have yet to try it out and see f there is enough tension in it yet. But I can always pull the cord
through more and tie it off tighter.
Last shift I also bought my dash out and put some holes in it for my gauges. I didn't have any hole saws and I'm not sure that the would have cut
very nicely through the titanium anyway. So I just ended up cutting around the edge with the cutting wheel in the grinder and cleaning them out with a
rotary burr on the die grinder.
Don't throw these offcuts out! This stuff is hard to come by. Maybe I can use it for brackets or something?
Trial fitted all of the gauges. Looking good!
I still need to add a hole in the middle of the dash for the light switches. But need to get some more measurements first and work out where the
stereo and warning lights are going.
That's all for now.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
Posts: 2125
Threads: 110
Registered: October 29th, 2008
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| posted on November 28th, 2015 at 09:11 AM |
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I have gotten a little bit more done on the car in the last week or so.
Added these gusset plates between the lift kit and the beam support tubes. Then added the front brake line tubes on top of that and bent and fitted up
the last of the front brake lines.
After that I dropped the body back on and found that I had some clearance issues. I had the fuel filter bolted to the air bag frame with a right angle
bracket (You can see the holes). This was contacting the body in the position shown in the picture. So I had to move it. You can also see the air line
in this shot for my air bag. Fill point will be a schrader valve under the backseat that I can easily top off with my compressor.
So I swapped the fittings around and swapped it to the other side. I also had some concerns with the trailing arm hitting the drain valve it the
previous position on full compression. The new spot fixes all of this. I welded up the holes in the frame and welded a new bracket to the top of it
too.
While I was at the back I had a few more things to work on too. I added a small bracket in the centre of the frame to mount my fuel changeover
solenoid to.
Next I cut up a piece of angle that ties into some bolts on the side of the gearbox for the clutch line mount. First I made it fit and then cut it to
the height I needed and welded the bracket on top.
Trimmed the handle to length. Still might need some more, I will use it first then decide.
Got my old front bar to fit with a couple of small mods. This is just temporary, I am planning to make a new one later that fits better with the
bodylift and has mounts for a winch.
Put the axles together with the Porsche CVs. Thanks again Rich, I can't get over the quality of these things! The cages are incredibly thick! Only
one of the CVs had a little bit of galling on the star and that's it. And I installed it so it wasn't the load bearing side when driving forward.
Will certainly have to chase down some more for spares when I get spare time.
The angle was a little more extreme than I was expecting, nudging 25-26° at full droop. But I clocked them when assembling and the wheels spin freely
so will run them and see. I think that they should be fine, I was running 20° with the old CVs so these good Porsche ones should handle it ok. The
extra angle has developed from having to move the trans rearward and up slightly to get it all fitting nicely. I think it should all work quite nicely
if I ever get 3x3s or the like under the back of this thing.
Finished welding out the tank frame.
After lifting the body onto the pan all by myself, it was time to put some sealer between it and the pan and get them glued together. This is where I
ran into a few dramas with bolts not fitting/lining up etc. So I ended up lifting the body back off the pan. It was parked under the mezz floor in my
shed so I just ran some straps up to that and hoisted it clear. Then I die ground the offending holes into submission before redoing the sealer and
lowering the body back down into place. Both times I used long M8 bolts with the heads cut off as guides studs to lowert the body into position. After
many hours of stuffing around and setbacks I tightened the last bolt and the body was mounted.
Once this was done I dropped the engine in it too, and ran into more problems. Seems that the engine mounts I have chosen are too soft and the way
they are mounted exacerbates this condition. With one finger I can rock the engine back and forward about 100mm. I am going to add a rear engine
support bar like a bus has with 2 more mounts on it. I am also going to mount them sideways which gives them a better load holding ability. It this
doesn't work I will have to go back to square one and come up with something better for the drivetrain mounts.
The rear barwork was also bolted into place. I had to move it back close to 75mm to get it to clear the engine now that it is further back because of
the way the gearbox is mounted. The plan is to redo the rear barwork also, but I am going to wait until after my engine change and make it to suit.
I enlisted my girlfriend as slave labour to help with bleeding the brakes. That was a bit of a mission in itself. But we ended up getting them to
bleed up nicely after raising the back of the car to get air out etc.. I could work out why we weren't getting good pedal even though there was no
air coming out of the system. So I said let me had a feel of it and jumped in to try the pedal, I instantly noticed that half the pedal travel was
free play as I hadn't set the pushrod on the brake pedal. Adjusted that up and it is very good now, not as good as it was in the past but I am
blaming the cutting brakes for that, I might give it another bleed once I drive it a little.
I bolted the seats in and the shifter. it changes gear nicely and I really like the long shifter, I think I'm keeping it. Sitting in the car just
feels right
The drivers position is good, the seat height is god, the shift is good. I think I might have fluked it and got some stuff right It's nice to know I am slowly dragging myself closer to be able to drive
this thing after 2 and a half years downtime.
This is how she sits presently. The front is on the stops and needs to get loaded up so it will come down, and the back is way too low. I think I got
the torsion bar settings very wrong and they will need to be reset. the rear tanks, spare tyre etc still need to go on so it will drop plenty more. I
also need 33s on the back too.
Oh, and I fitted the side windows too.
Thanks for reading.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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beetleboyjeff
A.k.a.: Jeff Walsh
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| posted on November 28th, 2015 at 12:49 PM |
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Great work as usual Smiley. You must nearly be able to taste the finish now.
From your ole' mate Jeff
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Bone
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| posted on December 2nd, 2015 at 09:03 AM |
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I also need 33s on the back too.!!!!!!!!!
33"s on the back of a beetle is crazy talk Smiley! Who would do that?
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 3rd, 2015 at 11:05 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bone
I also need 33s on the back too.!!!!!!!!!
33"s on the back of a beetle is crazy talk Smiley! Who would do that?
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Dave has run them for about 10 years. So I figured it was time I caught up. I have more suspension travel then him, but he has bigger wheels, so we
have pretty well identicle clearance under the back. This might give me the edge
Will worry about it after it is on the road cause I will have to cut down some springplates.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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pv370
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| posted on December 3rd, 2015 at 03:06 PM |
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great build going on there...............
love looking at what people are up to and thinking wish i had the time ,the patience and the knowhow to do all this stuff.
did you sort out your handbrake lever problem ??????
dont know about beetles but early type 3 handbrake lever has 2 loops eitherside for the cable to go through.
would be better than scratching sh** out of your hand on the bracket thingy....
the early loop ones are longer in the handle than the one you have by the look of it....
might be able to weld some loops on the side of the later lever you have there.....
just my 2cents worth
cheers Peter
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 3rd, 2015 at 05:54 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by pv370
great build going on there...............
love looking at what people are up to and thinking wish i had the time ,the patience and the knowhow to do all this stuff.
did you sort out your handbrake lever problem ??????
dont know about beetles but early type 3 handbrake lever has 2 loops eitherside for the cable to go through.
would be better than scratching sh** out of your hand on the bracket thingy....
the early loop ones are longer in the handle than the one you have by the look of it....
might be able to weld some loops on the side of the later lever you have there.....
just my 2cents worth
cheers Peter
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Yeah mate. That's the plan.
I had the early bug one in previous to this one and I swapped to the late one to give me some room up the front to grab the cutting brake handles. The
later handles are shorted than the early ones. But it is still a touch too long at the moment. I'm going to pull it and probably shorten it up a bit
more. And then will add little loops for the cables to keep them in tight to the the handle so they don't catch the other handles. I also have some
little spacers to put in the back which will shorten the amount of cable sticking out the front. Or I might even just pull them and get some new
shorter cables to suit.
Thanks for reading and thanks for your input. It is always appriciated.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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pv370
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| posted on December 3rd, 2015 at 08:38 PM |
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keep up the good work
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