| [ Total Views: 17231 | Total Replies: 116 | Thread Id: 67945 ] |
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 Bugaru03
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| posted on December 25th, 2009 at 10:16 PM |
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Ha ha ha!!! My first thought was to paint it red but i wanted something more aggressive so finally decided the anthracite colour!!!
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Bugaru03
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| posted on January 1st, 2010 at 12:04 AM |
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Few hours before end of the year last unexpected thing happened..
An old lady hit me with her car in the bumper but for my good luck my mechanic was there and with my insurance all the legal staff were arranged.
So, new polyester bumper will be introduced plus the painting job.
here are the evidence...
so, its time again for engine update..
The block painted in silver colour and three more thing that need to be painted is the water tube, valve covers and timing belt cover all in
anthracite colour.
We will also re-locate the water tube in the back of the intake manifold so to achive better look from in front.
and..
and..
and..
some other good stuff purchased and new piston rings and connecting rod bearings introduced plus new head studs!
The re-assembly has begun and in the few next days I will be ready again to hit the roads!!
more to come from next year............
[B][SIZE="4"]Wish everybody Happy New Year!!![/SIZE][/B]
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JVLRacing
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| posted on January 2nd, 2010 at 08:10 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jak Rizzo
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
here splitting cases is pretty much unheard of
noone rebuilds them as its far cheaper to buy another running engine and they are built at the factory to such close tolerances that rebuilds dont end
up as good,
its the reason they run so smooth and last so long
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I disagree. I bought my wrx engine for $850 with 140000ks on it, flogged it for 15'000ks, had it rebuilt with new pistons, ACL race bearings, ARP
head studs, rebuilt heads etc for $2300 & have now put over 135'000ks on the rebuilt engine.
I agree it would have been far cheaper to buy another $850 wrx engine, but once again it's a lottery of unknown quality. Personally for me, & for
what I do with my car i went with the rebuild. U can't beat the price.
regards
Jak
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Very very true.....and u had a bloke that new wat he was doin without chewing ur leg off $$$
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DylanTheDubber
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| posted on January 2nd, 2010 at 08:55 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by colonel mustard
Brahh??
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Sorry , Just some of my Abborigonal comming out in me.
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Bugaru03
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| posted on January 12th, 2010 at 12:24 AM |
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At last... after 9 months without driving my beetle, finally the first ride take place this saturday in the road but now totally different then
before.........rebuilded and painted
The assembly of the engine is done and after painted is taking place back in to the engine bay and i must say that i am very pleased from the
result.
Everything is in the right position as it has to be!!
The first 200km after the rebulid came very smooth and easy, the rev's didnt pass the 3500rpm.I have checked the oil and water level until the first
change in 1000km.
GAZ struts in combination with bigger rear torsion bars provide better handling and gives you the feeling that it "reads" very well the road.
After the bumper will be replaced and painted by end of the next week some things may left to be introduced:
1.oil pressure gauge
2.bosch universal lamda
3.throttle reversed cable.
and a few photos from the first ride... :
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Bugaru03
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| posted on January 22nd, 2010 at 06:43 PM |
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Guys i need your help..
I've noticed that this intake solenoid is tapped after the rebuild but before the rebuild was leading somewhere..
Do you know were or maybe someone can provide a diagram for all the NA solenoids?
Thanks & regards,
Jimmy
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Joel
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| posted on January 22nd, 2010 at 07:29 PM |
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Hi Jim, thats the hose that connects to the charcoal canister
i have mine blocked off the same way
does your bug have the subaru canister installed?
if not then the connection needs to be blocked off like it is
as long as the solenoid has the wire connected to it the ECU is happy, it doesnt know the hoses and canister arent there
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Bugaru03
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| posted on January 22nd, 2010 at 07:46 PM |
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Thx Joel for the explanation!
I was worried about this but indeed i did not have a canister!
Thx again!
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colonel mustard
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| posted on January 22nd, 2010 at 07:49 PM |
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Its looking great man!
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Joel
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| posted on January 22nd, 2010 at 08:42 PM |
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no worries jim,
if the hose was there not connected to anything it would have been affecting the engines running so the mechanic has done the right thing by plugging
it off as you have no canister
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colonel mustard
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| posted on January 22nd, 2010 at 09:49 PM |
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Hey Joel, now I see why you want a no vent engine lid, looks the goods.
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Bugaru03
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| posted on January 22nd, 2010 at 10:39 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by colonel mustard
Its looking great man!
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Thx man!
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Bugaru03
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| posted on March 4th, 2010 at 08:38 PM |
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Small update...
Finally I have changed the old lamda with a new Japanese one NTK.
The old one has been damaged and the engine was running to rich.
Now the mixture is stabilized in stock conditions and maybe a dyno will show us the new results.
With half of tank I have made approx. 230km and if you consider the very short ratio transaxle and the 2.0lt engine I think it's a very good result
for me.
and two photos from my baby!
That's all for now..
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Bugaru03
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| posted on August 5th, 2010 at 12:13 AM |
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Minor updates...
New Avon ZZ3 tyres introduced in 205-45-17 for the front and 205-50-17 for the rear gives you a much better feeling & handling than the old ones
:smt023
Also i fabricate a new center console and moved the radio cd on it until i will be ready to trim the dashboard & console
In future plans these instruments will light up my interior and who knows what else.......
Now lets get back to business....
During the past days i have encounter an oil pressure problem and after the fact i've changed the oil pressure sender with new one the problem still
persists.
New semisynthetic oil 15w50 and nipon oil filter introduced but the only change is to see higher pressure at cold 6.7bar and at hot idle around
0.9bar.
I have noticed some oil leak from this solenoid (i dont know how this called) and I strapped it.
Through my plans it was to cut my intake "Injen style" manifold and add the air filter as closer as i can to maf sensor.I dont know if this has a
better efficiency but i like the result!
 [/img]
After the cut and after reset the ECU some times the idle plays from 400rpm to 700rpm and i was wondering if the time has come to clean the idle
control valve & MAF but i cant locate the valve!
Also does anyone reverse the oil tube succesfully?
Any info would be appreciated guys!
Rgrds,
Jimmy
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Bugaru03
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| posted on August 8th, 2010 at 10:19 PM |
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anybody??
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BlueV2
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| posted on August 9th, 2010 at 02:04 PM |
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By oil tube, do you mean the oil filler pipe ?
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Bugaru03
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| posted on August 9th, 2010 at 05:20 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by BlueV2
By oil tube, do you mean the oil filler pipe ?
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Exactly!
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BlueV2
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| posted on August 9th, 2010 at 05:24 PM |
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Is it a plastic one ? I just modified mine last week by cutting it on a different angle and then plastic welding it back up using a soldering iron.
Was easy to do (a bit smelly), but it welds back nice and strong.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Bugaru03
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| posted on August 9th, 2010 at 06:37 PM |
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Thanks a lot for the info.
Do you have any picture from the result?
Kind regards,
Jimmy
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gerrelt
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| posted on August 10th, 2010 at 04:33 AM |
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Hi Jimmy, your car and engine looks great!
This is a very nice picture:
| Quote: |
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Joel
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| posted on August 10th, 2010 at 09:46 AM |
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Hi Jim, console looks good, just finished making one similar for mine.
With the oil leaking, thats the crank case vent valve
If your getting abit of oil leaking from there you may have high case pressure.
do you have the 2 rocker cover vents and the case vent connected to the air intake like original?
if not thats the problem.
Mine was doing the same bouncy idle thing when hot, cleaning the idle valve fixes it but just sorted itself out with regular use.
Cleanings them is not hard, theres some good links on subaru forums I'll find later.
its the brown box thing on the manifold directly below the PCV hose that you just put the clamp on
With the Oil filler tube, the turbo ones fit alot better or what i did which is rough but works is cut a section out and rejoin it with hose and
clamps
I'll get it plastic welded one day or buy a turbo one
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BlueV2
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| posted on August 10th, 2010 at 10:54 AM |
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This is easy to do yourself. You could easily make it look prettier if you wanted to. I just used a 40 watt soldering iron with a flat blade.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Bugaru03
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| posted on August 10th, 2010 at 07:27 PM |
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Gerrelt, thanks and thanks again man!!
Joel, yes the case & cover vents has been ending to the air intake. But does this means that i have a high case pressure and needs to be reliefed
from somewhere?
When i first attached the black hose in to the valve (Elusive explain me that this is not a solenoid but a 1 way valve) it didn’t fit well and
that's why i strapped it. From the moment i did this i have no oil leaks from there.
Will this be a problem? And also i have noticed that this valve can be screw-unscrew, but where is the right position to be?
The idle has been stabilized after three long rides & ECU reset and I assume that at least for the moment it’s not necessary to clean them.
As for the oil filler (thanks for the advises) I have in mind to trim a bit the tap and see if I can get more space from my rear valance
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Bugaru03
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| posted on December 28th, 2010 at 11:11 PM |
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Merry Christmas to all!!
In the last few days some minor problems came up.
1.When the engine warm up and during the ride i have instantly three or four stall, it's like that someone to cut the power or the petrol.
This only happens(dont' know if this is by accident) in winter time and i've noticed when the humidity is up.
So first came in my mind to check the fuel pump and i have in idle 2.5 bar and in full rpms 3.5bar with regular flow.
Next i thought the MAF sensor because i dont have a knock sensor.
So i buy a CRC MAF cleaner and with carefull i sprayed the MAF and let it to vaporized (like photo).Then i bolt it back and i think i have gain some
power.
Till today i have done 3 rides with no hesitation at all.
Next step( if it aint MAF) is to change the spark plugs or the coil.
Do you suggest anything else that might be checked???
2. I tapped one oil evaporasation leak and change also a handbrake cable because it brokes.
3. I re-assembly the MAF and intake air filter.
4.Change one brake hose line cause it was worn out!!!
New oil 10W-40 castrol magnatec + oil & fuel filter introduced.
5.From next week i will finally make some progress in interior(new dashboard & central console)
more photos from the progress next week.
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Bugaru03
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| posted on January 11th, 2011 at 11:08 PM |
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update..
After raised this thread http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=87474 i have realized that the dimming lights were the source of the
problem.
The driving distance is every day the same, home-work-home so back to home in the afternoon i need to open the lights and that cause the stall.
The fuse is overloaded with power and is gets really hot with result of losing power somewhere and instantly cut me off.
So the simplest test was to open the lights during the day and see if the problem comes up.
And guess..... Yes it stalls once more so it has something to do with the dim lights. I'm thinking tol bypass the big scale and send it directly to
battery or tol add a relay.
Regards,
Jim
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itawolf
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| posted on January 19th, 2011 at 10:33 AM |
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looks very good...very nice
Dim lights--glad u fig that out
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Bugaru03
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| posted on January 20th, 2011 at 07:26 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by itawolf
looks very good...very nice
Dim lights--glad u fig that out
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Thanks man! Hope that is the problem and nothing else..
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