| [ Total Views: 5814 | Total Replies: 134 | Thread Id: 91614 ] |
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 Paulc1964au
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| posted on July 27th, 2011 at 08:50 PM |
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Yes i am leaning towards a 1776 based on that think i'll blow both Mick and Camos bugs away, for the first 200 metres anyway then i guess they will
wave me goodbye lol
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LOWBUG
Insano Dub Head
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| posted on July 28th, 2011 at 09:13 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
I was more than pleased with my 1776, it was just going to cost more than my entire subi conversion to fuel inject it which is only reason i'm not
running it now.
Thing I dont like about 94s is the bore cuts into the case savers, not really an issue on a mild engine but most of mine seem to end up boosted and I
can see that leading to problems.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by zayus
The 94 mm barrels (cylinder) are thicker and stronger than 90.5 mm barrels.
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Who the hell told you that?
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I've running 94's in a boosted engine for some years now and have really driven it hard on the drag strip, have seen no probs with head studs.
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Joel
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| posted on July 28th, 2011 at 04:34 PM |
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Let me rephrase....possible problems.
Theres alot of factors to consider like boost levels, head stud size etc.
I had problems with 8mm headstuds stretching when I boosted one of mine but i reckon they were cheap shit brazilian ones probably made of fencing
wire, chromemoly studs fixed that, but if went 10mm with case savers in a 94mm bore half the case saver would dissapear.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on July 28th, 2011 at 07:12 PM |
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=144734
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Ollie
A.k.a.: Ollie Clarke
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Yeah Buddy
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| posted on July 29th, 2011 at 08:45 PM |
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Do many people here run motors imported from the US?
I've got one waiting to go in when the funds permit but I remember a while back all I herd were bad tales about importing them in just to see them
sh*t themself.
Any good stories?
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 matberry
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| posted on July 29th, 2011 at 09:37 PM |
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You get what you pay for, doesn't really matter what country it comes from.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on July 30th, 2011 at 05:10 PM |
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Was down at Rod Penrose today and he let me take his 1916 for a spin WOW lots of grunt and great to drive
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Ollie
A.k.a.: Ollie Clarke
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| posted on August 1st, 2011 at 05:49 PM |
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Nice Paul, are you leaning to a similar combo now?
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on August 1st, 2011 at 05:52 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Ollie
Nice Paul, are you leaning to a similar combo now?
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No I think a 1916 maybe a little too much for
My needs aim leaning towards a 1776 it maybe a little more subtle in sound etc
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Ollie
A.k.a.: Ollie Clarke
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| posted on August 1st, 2011 at 05:54 PM |
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Yeah fair enough. Well you can still def build a strong 1776 for a decent budget that will certainly cater to your needs! Keep us informed!
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scot70wagon
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| posted on August 5th, 2011 at 09:59 PM |
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spend the extra and go 1916. once you have the extra you won,t go back.. it will only go as fast as you depress the accelerator anyway.as for noise
simply run a dual inline muffler system. That way you have the power when you want to use it.
ALL GOOD THINGS HAPPEN IN NEWCASTLE. JUST ASK A NOVACASTRIAN :  !! |
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on August 6th, 2011 at 07:57 AM |
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Have decided to be an informed buyer, just bought these two books from amazon
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0760304696/ref=oss_product
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0912656034/ref=oss_product
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matberry
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| posted on August 6th, 2011 at 09:54 AM |
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Best news yet.
This way you get to see what goes into any engine. It doesn't matter what size you build (although the bigger it is the more it will cost is a pretty
good rule of thumb  ) it's in the details that make an engine last.
Countless checks and improvements is what it's all about, because the parts are not absolutly perfect out of the box, and they all have to work in
conjunction with each other. Thats just the way it is.
The bigger the engine is, the more the compression ratio is increased, so as size increases, so do the tweaks required to get a performance package
working properly.
A well built engine will not have head studs come loose or overheat or have valve train issues, or idle rough or be a pig to drive or get poor fuel
economy........I could go on.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on August 6th, 2011 at 10:05 AM |
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Thanks Matt I do value your opinion i think by reading up and gathering information i can make a well informed decision. In the end for me its about
have a nice purring engine with good response, high end speed will never be a requirement, just enough grunt to raise a few eyebrows.
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matberry
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| posted on August 6th, 2011 at 12:00 PM |
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Even a 1600 can 'raise a few eyebrows' .... no problem.
Crazy Col had a 1600 running 14.8 (correct me if I'm wrong) in a stock beetle. And knowing him it would have mostly been secondhand parts.
IMO a new block, full flow oil system are highly recommended and new barrels, pistons and heads are generally required without looking too hard, then
every engine needs carbs, exhaust, clutch, ignition, oils, filters, gaskets, and for me valve train is also a first requirement, so also throw in
solid rocker shaft kit, swivel foot adjusters and the heads don't come with valve spring shims that also need to always be fitted. I get Crankshaft
Engineering to balance and setup all bearing clearances on every engine too, also even new heads get a valve job. Then the cooling system is an area
often overlooked that can make or break an engine, even the bodywork and engine vents need to come into it.
Once you have all the necessary stuff for a high mileage package, maybe a performance 1600 for starters, you can always upgrade later to a stroker for
reasonable money.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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48's and straight cuts
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| posted on August 6th, 2011 at 12:04 PM |
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Cool
Turbomania and the berg tech book are also great reading
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on August 13th, 2011 at 09:21 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
Even a 1600 can 'raise a few eyebrows' .... no problem.
Crazy Col had a 1600 running 14.8 (correct me if I'm wrong) in a stock beetle. And knowing him it would have mostly been secondhand parts.
IMO a new block, full flow oil system are highly recommended and new barrels, pistons and heads are generally required without looking too hard, then
every engine needs carbs, exhaust, clutch, ignition, oils, filters, gaskets, and for me valve train is also a first requirement, so also throw in
solid rocker shaft kit, swivel foot adjusters and the heads don't come with valve spring shims that also need to always be fitted. I get Crankshaft
Engineering to balance and setup all bearing clearances on every engine too, also even new heads get a valve job. Then the cooling system is an area
often overlooked that can make or break an engine, even the bodywork and engine vents need to come into it.
Once you have all the necessary stuff for a high mileage package, maybe a performance 1600 for starters, you can always upgrade later to a stroker for
reasonable money.
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Matt,
Why arent you in sydney lol, seriously though i will probably go for a new motor, received my first book yesterday so have a bit of reading to do
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JonR356
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| posted on August 13th, 2011 at 12:29 PM |
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Just sent you a PM, I've got a fair few new, unused but good quality parts if you decide to go down the 1776 route - new VW case machined for 90.5
and full flow oil, Mahle 90.5 P&Cs, ported heads cut for 90/5, CB Performance Unitech rods , Engle 110 cam etc. Should help keep the cost down.
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on August 13th, 2011 at 03:44 PM |
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Jon,
Sent you a PM
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on August 15th, 2011 at 08:37 PM |
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For a good read Jeff Spencer has posted on my Streetwise Aircooled page on facebook it is definitely worth a read
Engine Rebuild
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AUSSIE_MICK
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| posted on August 16th, 2011 at 06:13 AM |
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Jeff sure did go out of his way to inform you Paul.
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
Veteran Volks Folk
Wow ... are U reading this?
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| posted on August 16th, 2011 at 11:19 AM |
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There is a whole bunch of stuff there that I flat out disagree with.
Twin carbs not practical for a daily?
Lag from dual carbs WOT????
Taking the dog house oil cooler out ????
Over 10,000rpm?? Now how many engines can take this for more than a minute? F1
Read widely and then ask someone who builds them in Oz today and has engines that have longevity.
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JonR356
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| posted on August 16th, 2011 at 04:37 PM |
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Agreed, some absolutely nutty stuff on the info Jeff posted.
1835 is his favourite - unless he's on about the thick wall 92s with the same OD as 94s that's just crazy talk for a daily driver - the walls on 92s
are way too thin, as per the following:
.179" = 92mm thickwall
.177" = 88mm machine-in
.163" = 85.5mm
.148" = 90.5mm
.140" = 94mm
.118" = 92mm thinwall
Engle cams are extremely inefficient - yep, that's why there are thousands of bugs running around with a 110 in there.
Apparently it's impossible to balance a stroker motor for more than 6,000 RPM too, whereas an 1835 is good for 10,000 RPM. Never heard that one
before. He must be running some serious valve spring pressure, or maybe he's perfected a desmo valve train for air cooled VWs.
'Screw these guys with all their dual carbs' - rage much? You can include me in the group of people getting 'screwed'. I don't find mine too
impractical. Or get too much 'throttle lag' last time I checked.
And he doesn't like using new cases. He'd rather use an old AS41 case than a new AS41 case.
I particularly like this:
"When I build these engines I watch the actual compression, and check it w/a tranny jig b4 we ever dress up the engine or put it into the car. What
we’re shooting for here is compression in the 155-160 psi. range. I watch the actual compression rather than trying to calculate the CR of the
engine, as I’ve not been very good or successful w/that. It’s the real world that really matters here. So I’m not sure what the actual CR is
when I’m done"
Seems like a bit of a nutcase to me. But nice of him to take the time to post some info. At least he's modest:
"I do hope that U will regard the information that I have provided U with here in these discussions as some of the best that U will ever receive from
anyone in the aircooled industry, as I have been most thorough in my description of things here to U, and it comes directly from my personal 30yrs. of
experience at my Chicagoland high volume VW only shop".
Where's Chicagoland, I'm guessing it must be near Michael Jackson's Neverland Ranch?
The real warning sign for me was that he reckons he builds over 350 engines a year, and a few years back he had his first ever engine failure, on an
engine which had been built 20 years before? Doesn't stack up to me. If you build performance engines, you will have some failures. I call BS.
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shokwave2
A.k.a.: Matt Hamilton
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| posted on August 16th, 2011 at 07:56 PM |
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I just replaced my single 34 pict carb with dual Kadrons (a big cheers to Rod Penrose) on my 1600 and IMO it's good enough as a daily driver. Along
with a merged header and Phat Boy exhaust, this is so much fun to drive and gives me enough power get where i want, and to turn a few heads on the
way.
Oh, and your new interior looks real sweet Paul 
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on August 16th, 2011 at 08:03 PM |
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thanks for your input guys yes I thought the same about some of his comments and thought it would invoke some discussion.
I am getting clarity on which way i will go more info soon
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matberry
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| posted on August 16th, 2011 at 09:26 PM |
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Thanks for posting that B/S JonR356, I don't do facebook so didn't get to see it. I don't think any sane person would take much notice.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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polak
A.k.a.: Adam Pawlowski
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on August 16th, 2011 at 10:30 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by LOWBUG
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
I was more than pleased with my 1776, it was just going to cost more than my entire subi conversion to fuel inject it which is only reason i'm not
running it now.
Thing I dont like about 94s is the bore cuts into the case savers, not really an issue on a mild engine but most of mine seem to end up boosted and I
can see that leading to problems.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by zayus
The 94 mm barrels (cylinder) are thicker and stronger than 90.5 mm barrels.
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Who the hell told you that?
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I've running 94's in a boosted engine for some years now and have really driven it hard on the drag strip, have seen no probs with head studs.
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some of the comments are gold! great for a laugh ay chris
VW - helping put oil back into the ground for over 60 years |
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cnfabo
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| posted on August 16th, 2011 at 10:32 PM |
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well i cant say i have purchased it but my next build which i have started getting parts to and have already is going to be a 1916cc for hillclimbs
and supersprints etc.....
kroc ported street elims,44x37.5,getting done as we speak..
pobjoy crank
h beams
48 idfs
cb 2289
cb lightweight lifters
twin plugged
pobjoy sump
10.5-11.1comp
aircooled.net ali pushrods
1.4rockers....
hope that makes some people drool...
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polak
A.k.a.: Adam Pawlowski
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on August 16th, 2011 at 10:37 PM |
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it was 1015pm when i called paul after he told me to check out jeff's comments, no disrespect, but when paul answered his phone i was in hysterics
and while writing this im still crying from laughing so hard, i only got to the 2nd paragraph as i couldnt take anymore, i will spread out the rest of
the answer over the next few days, gotta give it to the bloke though, although its a bit out there, u gotta give him credit for the length of the
reply, thats some solid effort!!! | Quote: | Originally posted by JonR356
Agreed, some absolutely nutty stuff on the info Jeff posted.
1835 is his favourite - unless he's on about the thick wall 92s with the same OD as 94s that's just crazy talk for a daily driver - the walls on 92s
are way too thin, as per the following:
.179" = 92mm thickwall
.177" = 88mm machine-in
.163" = 85.5mm
.148" = 90.5mm
.140" = 94mm
.118" = 92mm thinwall
Engle cams are extremely inefficient - yep, that's why there are thousands of bugs running around with a 110 in there.
Apparently it's impossible to balance a stroker motor for more than 6,000 RPM too, whereas an 1835 is good for 10,000 RPM. Never heard that one
before. He must be running some serious valve spring pressure, or maybe he's perfected a desmo valve train for air cooled VWs.
'Screw these guys with all their dual carbs' - rage much? You can include me in the group of people getting 'screwed'. I don't find mine too
impractical. Or get too much 'throttle lag' last time I checked.
And he doesn't like using new cases. He'd rather use an old AS41 case than a new AS41 case.
I particularly like this:
"When I build these engines I watch the actual compression, and check it w/a tranny jig b4 we ever dress up the engine or put it into the car. What
we’re shooting for here is compression in the 155-160 psi. range. I watch the actual compression rather than trying to calculate the CR of the
engine, as I’ve not been very good or successful w/that. It’s the real world that really matters here. So I’m not sure what the actual CR is
when I’m done"
Seems like a bit of a nutcase to me. But nice of him to take the time to post some info. At least he's modest:
"I do hope that U will regard the information that I have provided U with here in these discussions as some of the best that U will ever receive from
anyone in the aircooled industry, as I have been most thorough in my description of things here to U, and it comes directly from my personal 30yrs. of
experience at my Chicagoland high volume VW only shop".
Where's Chicagoland, I'm guessing it must be near Michael Jackson's Neverland Ranch?
The real warning sign for me was that he reckons he builds over 350 engines a year, and a few years back he had his first ever engine failure, on an
engine which had been built 20 years before? Doesn't stack up to me. If you build performance engines, you will have some failures. I call BS.
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VW - helping put oil back into the ground for over 60 years
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JonR356
Casual Dubber
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| posted on August 17th, 2011 at 07:39 AM |
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I've just read it, and enjoyed it again. It gets better, like a good comedy film.
The style of it is quite interesting too, it reads a bit like one of those scam emails you get from Nigeria, saying someone's aunt has died and left
'em $50m and you can have 10% if you have them over for a cup of tea or something.
I reckon he's a nice bloke though, it's amazing he took the time to post all that stuff up.
Anyway, got to go. Off out to the garage to remove my dog house oil cooler.
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