| [ Total Views: 6105 | Total Replies: 134 | Thread Id: 91614 ] |
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 Paulc1964au
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on August 17th, 2011 at 06:19 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by JonR356
I've just read it, and enjoyed it again. It gets better, like a good comedy film.
The style of it is quite interesting too, it reads a bit like one of those scam emails you get from Nigeria, saying someone's aunt has died and left
'em $50m and you can have 10% if you have them over for a cup of tea or something.
I reckon he's a nice bloke though, it's amazing he took the time to post all that stuff up.
Anyway, got to go. Off out to the garage to remove my dog house oil cooler.
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don't forget to remove the twin carbs as well, I will give you $50 since they dont work to well
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
Veteran Volks Folk
Wow ... are U reading this?
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| posted on August 17th, 2011 at 06:26 PM |
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There was so much that was nuts and off the wall that I couldn't even think about responding to any points.
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t_tuffnut
Wolfsburg Wizard
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Mood: Rust free for 12 months
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| posted on August 19th, 2011 at 07:03 AM |
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I would double check some of the advice in that How to hot rod Vw engines book. I have the same one and read about the small increase in hp that
blocking off the manifold preheat pipe at the exhaust affords - roughly 4hp according to the book.
I asked on here about it and people thought I was mad.
Turns out it was already blocked full of carbon and that the cause of my icing up problems.
So, take it all with a grain of salt.
By the way, does anyone want to buy a copy of How to hot rod a Vw engine? 
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 matberry
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Go hard or go home
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| posted on August 19th, 2011 at 08:28 AM |
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Colder air charge = more hp.
Manifold preheat is for a daily, purely for drivability and cold weather performance.
***There is nothing wrong with the book, just the interpretation.***
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Brass Munky
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| posted on August 19th, 2011 at 01:35 PM |
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I recently built a 1916 for my car... While we are still tinkering and waiting to put it on a dyno its more than fun enough for now... Theres a
supercharger on the bench...
It was a build that got out of hand from a simple rebuild. Counter weighted crank, lightened flywheel, forged 94's, Los panchito Heads etc etc... But
its a shi#load of fun...
Luckily All I had to pay for was parts... Machining cost me a Magnum of Coopers Sparkling, and assembly was food for me and the lads over the nights
we did it.
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LOWBUG
Insano Dub Head
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| posted on August 19th, 2011 at 08:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by cnfabo
well i cant say i have purchased it but my next build which i have started getting parts to and have already is going to be a 1916cc for hillclimbs
and supersprints etc.....
kroc ported street elims,44x37.5,getting done as we speak..
pobjoy crank
h beams
48 idfs
cb 2289
cb lightweight lifters
twin plugged
pobjoy sump
10.5-11.1comp
aircooled.net ali pushrods
1.4rockers....
hope that makes some people drool...
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Na not really
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Super1302
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on August 19th, 2011 at 09:22 PM |
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for me  i have.
autolinea 2332cc
94 x 84
5.5 4340 I Beams
040 heads, (44 x 37)
fk 10 cam, advanced couple of degrees.
1.4 rockers
AA straight cuts.
48 ida's
Compufire DIS IX ignition
 and all i have done with it is run it in the driveway, no k's as
yet. i am hanging out, once the weather pee's off and i get my ignition back in i will be right.
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on August 24th, 2011 at 06:26 PM |
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Read both books back to back and I am convinced a 1776 is what suits me best the better of the books was the performance book.
Why a 1776 well from what i have read it will have the following features
1. higher torque lower in the power band so good at start
2. Engine will be reliable
3. less fuel consumption than a 1916
Other things I learnt were
good heads ported and polished, a engle 110 and delorto 40's make a good combination with a 11/2 inch exhaust.
I am sure there will be lots of arguments but for what i require this spec seems to suit my needs
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Brass Munky
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| posted on August 24th, 2011 at 06:50 PM |
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| Quote: | Why a 1776 well from
what i have read it will have the following features
1. higher torque lower in the power band so good at start
2. Engine will be reliable
3. less fuel consumption than a 1916
Other things I learnt were
good heads ported and polished, a engle 110 and delorto 40's make a good combination with a 11/2 inch exhaust.
I am sure there will be lots of arguments but for what i require this spec seems to suit my needs
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Having no experience with a 1776, I can't comment, what I can tell you is the 1916 in my car is an absolute torque monster. The other engine we
built, a 2000cc odd, is slightly quicker in the top end, but I'll give it a helluva run all the way there!
At the end of the day, only you know what you want, and only you can decide the best way to get it from the engine. The only advice I can give you
is... DO IT THE PROPERLY THE FIRST TIME.
Buy the best parts you can afford, If a new part is available for something you might reuse at very little cost, do it, you know the spiel... Don't
do things on the cheap!
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Paulc1964au
Custom Title Time!
Posts: 1627
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| posted on August 24th, 2011 at 07:13 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Brass Munky
| Quote: | Why a 1776 well from
what i have read it will have the following features
1. higher torque lower in the power band so good at start
2. Engine will be reliable
3. less fuel consumption than a 1916
Other things I learnt were
good heads ported and polished, a engle 110 and delorto 40's make a good combination with a 11/2 inch exhaust.
I am sure there will be lots of arguments but for what i require this spec seems to suit my needs
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Having no experience with a 1776, I can't comment, what I can tell you is the 1916 in my car is an absolute torque monster. The other engine we
built, a 2000cc odd, is slightly quicker in the top end, but I'll give it a helluva run all the way there!
At the end of the day, only you know what you want, and only you can decide the best way to get it from the engine. The only advice I can give you
is... DO IT THE PROPERLY THE FIRST TIME.
Buy the best parts you can afford, If a new part is available for something you might reuse at very little cost, do it, you know the spiel... Don't
do things on the cheap!
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I agree nothing off the current engine will be used, all new going into this build
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Paulc1964au
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on September 5th, 2011 at 09:02 PM |
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bought this from amazon today
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matberry
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| posted on September 5th, 2011 at 09:28 PM |
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That's a great book, the blue section is really detailed and gives a pretty good description of the checks required for a good build.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Paulc1964au
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on September 10th, 2011 at 04:00 PM |
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thinking about one of these distributors
Comes with these standard features:
- 21 x 21 Fully programmable spark table
- Tune as you drive technology
- Built-in Data logging
- Built-in programmable Two-Step Rev Limiter
- Built in programmable High RPM Rev Limiter
- Built-in 2.5 Bar MAP Sensor
- Works on Normally Aspirated and Forced Induction Engines
- Fully adjustable RPM and load boundaries.
- Live Online Software Support (Internet Connection Needed)
- Precision CNC housing, Black Anodized Finish
- Roller Bearing shaft support for exact timing accuracy
- Each MS-Digital Distributor is shipped with software, installation instructions, communication cable, fittings and vacuum plates for easy
installation.
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cnfabo
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| posted on September 10th, 2011 at 04:26 PM |
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spend the money on something else dude...just a basic one like cb's magnaspark kit will be suffice......yeah its cheaper then a full msd set up but
you don't need it if you are not racing....
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on December 21st, 2011 at 09:01 PM |
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ok just an update hope to get the motor built in the new year. What exhaust should i get for my 1776?
A good friend recently had a 1916 installed with a python exhaust however the car is way to loud.
I want the car to be relatively quiet so what do you recommend for a good exhaust that is quiet yet still provides performance?
What about a vintage speed muffler?
Here is a link to what i was thinking of
Vintage exhaust
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