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Author: Subject: chasing sub 12.5's in a 2250lb Fastback
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posted on November 21st, 2008 at 01:55 PM



So what are you running for a gearbox? I'm thinking odds are if it survives OK in a fastback should be fine in my case being in a lighter beetle.
I'm in the middle of weighing up options at the moment.

Your fuel system looks the goods by the way, sounds complex but that's what you need to get the job done.
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posted on November 21st, 2008 at 07:06 PM



James, i have the 71 turbo type 3, it made 246.4hp at the wheels on bp ultimate. i ran at warwick this year and ran 8.6 @ 83.79mph. My best 60ft was 1.9sec and im running a standard box apart from a super diff and a kombi .82 4th gear. im hoping to make over 300hp at the wheels with 20psi once i get all the other issues i have first. what is your best time so far, i am planning to run at willowbank in december so long as i get the tune right.



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posted on November 24th, 2008 at 05:18 PM



I think Troy is waiting to see if a car carrier is still on the cards for the interested parties.



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posted on November 25th, 2008 at 07:38 PM



yeah im not sure yet whether i can get time off work at the moment, would love to get there if $$$$ permits. i still have a heap of tuning to do on my car, just got the tuning program loaded onto my laptop so i will se if i can make some changes myself to improve the car.



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posted on November 26th, 2008 at 10:27 AM



IF FUNDS ARE LOW YOU KNOW
THERE'S ALLWAYS C*** FOR CAAAAAASH:lol:




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posted on January 23rd, 2009 at 06:40 AM



So how much power is it making?? Have you recorded pre/post tuning to see what the gains are?



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posted on January 23rd, 2009 at 06:19 PM



Yeah i knew it wasn't a dyno graph but just wondered if may have had it on a dyno previous or have an estimation of how much power you may have or want.

My brother is looking for something close to 300hp.




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posted on January 26th, 2009 at 06:41 PM



Was I seeing correctly with your set up being suck through with a carb? Apart from cost why not injection. The logger would have cost a bit to buy and set up. I Don't seem to have any of the probs you are having when using injection, and tunig on a dyno sorts out all the spikes and stuff your getting without tourching heads or valves.

I'm no expert maybe I just got lucky with a set up that works. I pulled an 8.1 at Warrick loosing traction in third gear, what a blast.
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posted on January 27th, 2009 at 08:35 AM



Hey James,
A friend has a boosted pinto motor running blow through carby setup make loads of power up hi as the engine was built to rev to 9K and boost comes on at around 4500. This car has its neck ringed everytime it goes out and was built for street and track use. His was also leaning out at high revs and he got around that but using a single injector that comes on with a hobb switch at high revs.
Maybe have a look, just and idea.
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posted on January 27th, 2009 at 03:58 PM



Hey Guys,
don't worry about the power potential of this set up.
James is trying to do as much of this as he can. He is learning heaps along the way.
One of the main reasons why he went old skool is because he can take care of things on his own, unlike efi where he hands it over to me and the dyno.
This way James takes care of the hole package easily.

The reason why it torched heads is because his alternator was not charging properly, running the fuel pump slower, so not providing enough fuel to the engine.
This is the same alternator that James had used for many years so who was to know.

Currently the primary side is lean [drivability] because James needs to get the power valve/jets right, not a big one but again James is learning all the time.




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posted on January 27th, 2009 at 09:14 PM



Maybe I should have mentioned that my luck has only come with my second attempt, my first turbo engine had its fair share of problems. I too understand that with air cooled engines your starting well behind the eight ball. I already had the EFI set up before the turbo was added and getting intercoolers to work properly was a challenge. The EFI made tuning and drivability much easier as well as other small areas of concern. I have also done alot of the set up and fabrication work myself and have had good guidence from those with experiance. My has engine still has a little more potential in it with fine tuning and small set up changes it should give me a little more but not to much.

As far as traction loss goes, you are spot on and addressing this is on the agender. After warrick I ran it WSID and got the back end all out of shape leading to the conclusion you pointed out. Unfortunatly time and other priorities hold me from getting to portland, hope to get to warrick and crack 7's.

I've been watching your progress for some time and been eager to see how youv'e gone since there was an absence for a while, but totaly understand as I was out of action for a while myself whilst rebuilding and getting a tuff gearbox together.

Good luck and hope to see you on the track with it sorted and ripping up the V8 boy's, man they get the shits.
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posted on January 28th, 2009 at 05:49 PM



I love it when they come up to you and say "man whats in that" and you turn and say "a vw engine". One night had a mate up it the stands bagging the shit out of the fact that there was a vw lined up for a run only to see their jaws drop when I took off and pulled a 13.6 at a 100 mph. Now thats gold. Sounds like we got some bench racing to do James.

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posted on February 15th, 2009 at 11:46 AM



Prep for Portland is nearly ready.

I was going to get the engine and car set up for a race tune and purchased good fuel in preparation.

Took the car to the dyno yesterday, and have decided that at this meet to stay in street trim. Cleaned up the lean spot on ramp up, have a nice power curve.

There is a heap more power in the engine. It wants more boost at high revs and on power. AFR when the secondaries open through to full power is 10.6.

On the dyno with 98 Octane BP Ultimate, boost @ 17, muffler and air filters on it's making a nice consistent 264hp when warm. It peaks at 275hp if the block is cool.

Thats at 8500rpm, when the rev limiter cuts in. Engine wants to pull beyond that.

That will do me for Portland.
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posted on February 15th, 2009 at 03:03 PM



Good numbers mate. Should be nice to drive. Look forward to hearing results from Portland.



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posted on February 17th, 2009 at 12:25 PM



great to see it going james - thats some big revs looking forward to catching up
adam
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posted on February 17th, 2009 at 01:13 PM



Thanks Adam,

It's been too long since the car was at the track. I am looking forward to it.

The noise at full revs is amazing. There were guys watching the car 20 meters in front of it, not facing the engine, with the fingers in their ears. At 8k it sounds like a jet engine.

That was with the muffler on the car, yet at 3-4k RPM, its sounds like a VW.

Looking forward to seeing your car in action again as well. It went hard last year, and I am sure you have modified it to go harder this year.

James C.
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posted on February 17th, 2009 at 06:35 PM



not bad numbers on the dyno, thats some serious rpm your pulling there. i set my car up to make its power without revving it to hard, i just want it to last as long as possible. mine made 246.4hp before the clutch was fried and that was at 5700rpm. its going back to the dyno towards the end of next month to fine tune it and increase the boost to around 20psi, hoping to get around 300hp then...Troy



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posted on March 9th, 2009 at 04:18 PM



Have you beefed up the engine mounts and box mounts at all?? Type 3 engine mounts are weak as and break even on stocko 1600's. They pull through the floor and if you have no intermediate mount the engine will almost fall to the ground.

Troy has beefed up the floor with 6mm plate and replaced the threaded part of the mount with 12 mm booker rod. Rear engine bar is basically now only an auxillary mount for things like turbo etc to hang off but still helps in holding engine still. Beefy front box mount and ladder type bars from top shock mounts to 4 bell housing to engine bolts stop box and engine from moving at all.

Another thing to do is replace all the torsion bar housing bushes where it bolts to the pan. Too much movement generated through these cause the rear end to walk around under power. Troy spun up some billet alloy ones and solid mounted all of them. No movement whatsoever.

Good luck with the box. Hopefully only crown wheel and spider gears are damaged.




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posted on April 7th, 2009 at 06:15 AM
turbo fastty


hi im from the uk and have a turbo set up like yours in my fastty.got a problem wonder if you can help.engine turns over but wont fire,the fuel does not seem to be reaching the plugs(it seems to pool in the intack manifold before the turbo)its only a 1641cc with a t2.5 turbo and a twin choke weber carb,it doesent seem to draw enough air to pull the fuel to the plugs.any help would be much appreciated cheers fastty ps will post some pics tonight on forum
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posted on April 7th, 2009 at 08:35 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by custom fastty
hi im from the uk and have a turbo set up like yours in my fastty.got a problem wonder if you can help.engine turns over but wont fire,the fuel does not seem to be reaching the plugs(it seems to pool in the intack manifold before the turbo)its only a 1641cc with a t2.5 turbo and a twin choke weber carb,it doesent seem to draw enough air to pull the fuel to the plugs.any help would be much appreciated cheers fastty ps will post some pics tonight on forum


Hey Dude,
sounds like your intake valves are not sealing. Do a quick comp test. You probably need a valve grind on all valves. try checking valve lash just in case.




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posted on April 8th, 2009 at 08:17 AM



finnaly got it running,turned out to be dodgy rear seal on back exhurst hence no pressure to spin turbo blades.seams to run ok but will need a bigger carb or rejetting.i know engine is ok as its only just been reconditioned.thanks for replying your fastty looks awsome.will post video of mine running on you tube this weekend under turbo type3.cheers tony
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posted on April 15th, 2009 at 09:09 PM



And that is just the external damage. Oh, and I haven't a photo but of course the front mount is shattered on the gearbox. It also leaks like a sieve, so it will be bdly cracked in the case.
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posted on April 15th, 2009 at 10:29 PM



Not bad James good work.
2 out of 4, we did well.
Mark is getting a new set of axles for half price, how about you?




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posted on April 15th, 2009 at 10:40 PM



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posted on April 16th, 2009 at 06:31 AM



I see those are the small type one spline James.

You can order a Quaife with 002 splines or a spool with 091 size.

Hope the rest is OK inside.

Gotta stop the hop.




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posted on April 16th, 2009 at 09:39 AM



That's a bummer James....Don't let it get you down, just replace all the broken bits with stronger ones, and lets go racing!!
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posted on April 20th, 2009 at 03:42 PM



Great inspiration James, keep up the top work.

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posted on April 21st, 2009 at 12:57 AM



Oh I have so much to look forward to!

Inspirational stuff James... You are a very determined Dubber....




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posted on May 6th, 2009 at 08:03 AM



I'm no expert, but that doesn't look like a typical fracture from the axle twisting. The broken surface area is to smooth, looks more like a production failure.

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posted on May 6th, 2009 at 10:56 AM



Hey James, I have been talking about this to David Glyus. Very weird on how that broke. Hope my Quaife doesn't do the same. Anyhow I have a mate who is a retired metallurgist and engineer that could have a look at this. He is not mega bucks and not cheap but does an exceptional job. He is completely anal about anything metal and balancing things. He wrote a letter to GT bicycles in USA about building there cranks the wrong way after I broke a set of unbreakable cranks. He went on to tell them how they should be making them.
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