| [ Total Views: 1127 | Total Replies: 20 | Thread Id: 101208 ] |
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 sgetty
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 11:15 AM |
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The do's and don'ts for storage
Hey
looking at shedding our beetle for at least a few years maby longer depending on cash.
What should i be doing and not doing for storage?
Motor is not running and will be coming out in the long term.
cheers
Deon
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RISKY4LIFE
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 11:40 AM |
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i will look after it for you  you like baja's right ?
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sgetty
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 11:44 AM |
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Haha yeah! I think i will be right!
Plus there is never room in your shed
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 12:30 PM |
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Engine storage needs to be done right.
What i find, is when good motors are stored a long time, valves can be held partially open, allowing humidity, condensation, bugs and all sorts of
foreign matter in, and it can bugger it bigtime (having to pull down the heads/bores/pistons. When moisture gets in, the white chalky mess from the
aluminium corrosion is horrible, such that when you turn the motor later down the track, it just scores and scratches the bores EEK! Springs can also
loose tension when held in compression for long durations of time.
Ideal thing is to pop off both tappet covers and adjust the valves such that every valve is closed so its sealed shut. In addition, i have heard that
pouring oil to completely fill the engine case will prevent engine internals being exposed to air, moisture, condensation etc. This won't work for a
normal vw engine as with the oil sling at the front it'll pour out at that height unless you have a sand seal.
Removing the engine out of storage is another thing. The bores will be fairly dry assuming a long storage period. I'd suggest pouring a bit of oil
through each spark plug hole to lube the bores to prevent scoring, prior to turning over by hand. This will also assist in building up initial
compression for starting again too.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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sgetty
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 01:12 PM |
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^motor is stuffed and is the reason for taking off the road i was meaning for the car physically..
Sorry should have been more clearer...
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vlad01
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 01:58 PM |
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clean dry place, put those blue rat baits around as they are the only ones that they actually like to eat. Just a cloth sheet over the top to allow
breathing, like a bed sheet or 2.
chuck heaps of desiccant in the cabin and change them as required.
Ideally if you can build a true air tight tent for it, put a dehumidifier in there and fill the thing with argon  it will never rust. even Nitrogen will do.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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68BUS
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 02:18 PM |
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And he thought cash was tight before the argon filled capsule.
Grays auctions have the army selloff at the moment. See if there are any blimps and put it in there.
Seriously though - how about a really good fish oil or penetrol flood in the cavities before it goes in.
And any way possible of keeping dust off it and rats out of it.
1966 Aussie 11 Window
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sgetty
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 02:50 PM |
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Thanks fellas!
I'm near Tamworth nsw so no salt spray/humidity here...but fish oil wouldn't hurt.
wax blocks are what those rats love and they are blue.
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snitz
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 04:26 PM |
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Pure cotton sheets are the go..100% cotton wont scratch.My wifes' beetles rear brake lines deteriorated after 7 years in storage ..the inside of the
line broke down blocking the lines..this may be an issue depending on how long you rest it up for.Obviously remove tyres and rims and keep in cool
dark storage as the rubber can crack,dry out and degrade...some Pirellis are really bad for cracking.
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68BUS
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 04:28 PM |
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You could put it on blocks to save the tyres.
If blocked of the jacking points then the shocks would be gratefull for it too after a few years would they not?
1966 Aussie 11 Window
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esevwbits
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 05:44 PM |
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Container! we sell an airtight 20ft for $1800+ or 40ft for $2800+
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vlad01
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 06:18 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 68BUS
And he thought cash was tight before the argon filled capsule.
Grays auctions have the army selloff at the moment. See if there are any blimps and put it in there.
Seriously though - how about a really good fish oil or penetrol flood in the cavities before it goes in.
And any way possible of keeping dust off it and rats out of it.
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on a serious note, dust is no problem, light cloth sheet or car cover of similar material.
The rats and mice are the serious issues. The irony is its worse most of the time to keep stuff inside in hope of protection from rodents, that where
they all go during the colder months.
you can rat proof all you want but they always find a way in. My half brother knows of a guy who spend upwards of 25k to build a small rodent proof
shed just for his Porsche and they got in and cost him 12k in wiring damage, now he keeps the car outside as they leave it alone when its outside.
He still can't work out where they got in as every thing is sealed in the shed design. 
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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vlad01
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 06:21 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by esevwbits
Container! we sell an airtight 20ft for $1800+ or 40ft for $2800+
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how wide are they? sounds tempting.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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cam070
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| posted on March 12th, 2013 at 08:12 PM |
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Don't forget to drain the fuel or add a preservative as fuel goes off over time
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sgetty
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| posted on March 13th, 2013 at 08:42 AM |
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Great advice! had not thought about the fuel..
Was thinking about putting on some old tyres so i can roll it in and out if needed.
esevwbits thanks but it will be in a shed/mancave!
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sgetty
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| posted on March 13th, 2013 at 08:48 AM |
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Something like this would be nice for moving it around the shed
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_jAB6tEsYpl0/TTTfrZzX2sI/AAAAAAAAAE0/znws_PEW9uE/s16...
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on March 13th, 2013 at 09:08 AM |
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Put the "damp rid" containers in the car.........I do that for my cars and you will be surprised how much moisture/water they collect
Its also worth spraying 'armourall' on all the rubbers and letting it soak in.
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sgetty
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| posted on March 13th, 2013 at 09:13 AM |
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Off topic a bit but we dont get a lot of domestic type mice and rats but we get these type, they walk past bread to get to fruit... and can jump..
http://www.oceanwideimages.com/images/10509/large/spinifex-hopping-mouse-24T5...
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Beerboy
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| posted on March 15th, 2013 at 12:19 PM |
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back all the brakes off, dont put hand brake on. leave it on axle stands. make a schedule to clean, run remember you own it ;-)
get a cat, and dont feed him too well.
WANTED kombi drivers side rear corner for a early bay! found after six years lol
WANTED engine lid for early kombi 71
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matara
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| posted on March 15th, 2013 at 08:51 PM |
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Just for those reading, I stored my cars for a year whilst I was away in Ireland. Got some fogging oil, the stuff they use on jet-ski's to preserve
the engines whilst in storage. You start the engine, spray the fogging oil in the carb until the engine cuts out. It coats all the internals with an
oily film to stop corrosion. Just change your oil before you restart the engine and your done.
Cheers
Steve
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esevwbits
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| posted on March 16th, 2013 at 04:18 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
| Quote: | Originally
posted by esevwbits
Container! we sell an airtight 20ft for $1800+ or 40ft for $2800+
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how wide are they? sounds tempting.
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almost 8ft wide internally. i think 2335 mm from memory.
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