| [ Total Views: 2089 | Total Replies: 14 | Thread Id: 101273 ] |
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 ArtyP
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on March 18th, 2013 at 04:26 PM |
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Do I Glue, Weld,or Rivert ???
I have some new sections to fit to my buggy (401 ) and not being very experienced I just dont know how to fix them . I have drilled out the spot
welds got the bad bits off and am ready to attach new bits but am not sure which is the best way.Has anyone any ideas please ?? Thanks Arty P.
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ArtyP
Seriously Crusin Dubber
Posts: 118
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Registered: September 20th, 2009
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Location: Port Stephens& Upper Myall.NSW
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| posted on March 18th, 2013 at 04:48 PM |
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Do I Glue, Weld,or Rivert ???
I have some new sections to fit to my buggy (401 ) and not being very experienced I just dont know how to fix them . I have drilled out the spot
welds got the bad bits off and am ready to attach new bits but am not sure which is the best way.Has anyone any ideas please ?? Thanks Arty P.
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waveman1500
Custom Title Time!
Also rides a Honda
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| posted on March 18th, 2013 at 06:34 PM |
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All panels need to be welded, and welded properly. Aluminium pop-rivets are nowhere near strong enough to replace spot welds. I strongly recommend
that you take the car to someone else who is qualified to do the work! If you have to ask this question, then you shouldn't be replacing structural
parts of your car.
If you are determined to do it yourself, then you need to get yourself a welder and practice on some scrap sheet metal until you can confidently weld
the steel with adequate penetration. You can test your practice welds by trying to break them or chisel them off with a hammer and cold chisel. If the
weld is good, then you shouldn't be able to get the panels apart without cutting them.
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nils
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on March 18th, 2013 at 06:51 PM |
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depending on how neat you took out the old sections, you may be able to spot or tac the new sections in using the old spots, but vote is for weld
Quit calling rust patina
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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Mad fabricator, paint and body
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| posted on March 19th, 2013 at 05:20 PM |
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Weld wherever possible. There are only a few places where you can panel glue.
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58camper
A.k.a.: Bill Moore
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| posted on March 20th, 2013 at 06:31 AM |
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Art,
The panels have been there along time on your vehicle now so dont do anything but weld in the new panels.
Country Buggies do allow a little tolerance when welding in that the existing weld spots are not the smoothest or best you would ever see but in
saying that I personaly would never try welding. Accountants should never weld and vice versa.
With your background and a bit of practice I am sure you will do a great job.
countrybuggybill
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bevoracing
A.k.a.: Tony Beven
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| posted on March 20th, 2013 at 12:20 PM |
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Hi Art
What panels have you got to fit? What sort of welding equipment have you got to choose from? We may be able to give you a tip two.
For instance (and I’m no expert) I found that as soon as you complete the “spot” weld, TIG or MIG, if you hit it with the air gun while it’s still
red, it’ll shrink it nicely and almost eliminate the warping. Need to clamp as close as you can because the warpage pulls the panels apart before the
weld even pools. It takes time, but an extra moment spent cleaning and clamping makes all the difference. I made a big clamp.
Good luck.
Tony
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ArtyP
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on March 25th, 2013 at 06:58 AM |
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Thanks for the feed back everyone The trouble is the more I ask the more options I am given,Just for the record the pop rivert option was a bit tongue
in cheek.I have been welding for about 60 years (yes I am an old bloke) and have oxy welded 1 mm aluminium but its the distortation that worries me
and I have a few panels to repair its the flat corners that are the tricky ones especially when they are about 800 mm long . 2 Panel beater friends
have suggested tack weld through the holes where I have drilled the spotwelds out, about every 150mm and glue the rest .That would mean applying the
glue leaving a bit of a gap where I am going to weld ( apparently there are some pretty good glues in the motor trade nowdays) The type of welder I am
going to use is Oxy and that could start another discussion but I have already butt welded some sections successfully so thats no problem.Any feedback
will be appreciated.Also thanks Tony for the tip on the Air gun never thought of that and that bottom panel in your photos is one of my problems .I am
posting 2 Pics of what I am talking about
Arty.
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bevoracing
A.k.a.: Tony Beven
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| posted on March 28th, 2013 at 09:32 AM |
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Nothing’s impossible Arty.
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11CAB
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
If ya got it....Baja it
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| posted on March 28th, 2013 at 10:20 AM |
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Good to see they're all the same, mine has the section in front of the bonnet rusted, as well as the firewall and heater channels
65 Meyers Manx
68 Country Buggy (KO 367)
68 Country Buggy (KO 669)
68 Country Buggy (KO 789)
68 Country Buggy (KO 815)
68 Baja Bug
76 Baja Kombi Twincab
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ArtyP
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 03:32 PM |
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Next Question ? Does anyone know what sort of sheetmetal was used on the back of the seats I want to replace one ,It looks like sheet Zinc fairly
light gauge 22 in the old scale I think thats about .08 in the modern scale it is very soft and malleable.
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cb john
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 05:55 PM |
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Hi Arty,
in commercialy available gauges of sheetmetal what you can get is 0.55 mm, 0.75, 0.95, 1.15, 1.55, 1.95 .....thicknes variation +/- 15%... pretty tight isn't it?
zinc seal is a bastard to weld, I'd recommend Cold rolled steel..
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bevoracing
A.k.a.: Tony Beven
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| posted on May 28th, 2013 at 04:28 PM |
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Trouble is they're curved in both directions, I expect they were stamped. Unless you have an English Wheel (and even if you do) they'll be a bugger
to make. I'm glad I don't have to do one. What's the trick with that sort of thing John, is there one? What's your plan Arty?
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cb john
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| posted on May 28th, 2013 at 07:16 PM |
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If you have an English wheel , it is a big advantage....what I did is calculate the blank size and started tack weld into the frame on the top
horizontal curve starting at the centre one tack each side...then tackweld vertical curves alternately on both sides, than finished with the bottom
horizontal curve. I've used 0.9 mm CRS, which is easy to force to the shape of the frame.
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ArtyP
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on June 2nd, 2013 at 11:09 AM |
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I am temped to leave the original sheet there (which has a few dings) and spot weld a new sheet on the back I will try one soon as soon as I get it
back from the sand blaster I still havent worked out what type of sheet was there in the first place yet but it is very soft and it is .95 thick I am
going to use Zincanneale and thanks John on the gauge sizes ( Its like getting your head around MM when you were brought up with inches & feet) By
the way I have already had a practice run with the spot welder and it seems to work.
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