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Author: Subject:  Engine wiring to test engine
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posted on September 1st, 2013 at 12:03 PM
Engine wiring to test engine


Hi guys

i have a type3 engine in its frame with gearbox mounted to it, but its out of the car.
i want to test it, as i have just purchased it.
So far i have the neg coil wire to the distributor, then the positive to the battery. and battery solinoid to positive, battery neg to engine casing.
ive turned it over via a screw drive across the starter terminals.
its a 6v early motor.
im getting no spark from the coil, is this because its a 6v coil?
any help appreciated.
thanks, Muz :)
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posted on September 1st, 2013 at 12:07 PM



do you have battery positive to coil??



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posted on September 1st, 2013 at 12:13 PM



yeah, positive from battery to coil :)
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posted on September 1st, 2013 at 12:19 PM



then have you definitely got gap in your points

can you hear a click when you turn by hand?




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posted on September 1st, 2013 at 05:26 PM



If you have power to the coil + and the green wire from the distributor to the - of the coil the points should cause a spark at the coil lead when you open the points with a screwdriver,I would guess that the points are corroded particularly if it has been standing for a while. Clean the points with a bit of 220 wet & dry paper,make sure you have a gap when the rubbing block is on the cam.
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posted on September 2nd, 2013 at 08:11 PM



thanks bizarre and grumble :)
i'll give thata try on the weekend
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posted on September 2nd, 2013 at 10:02 PM



Are you using a 12v battery or 6v ? if your using a 12v battery you will need to change the coil, the 6v starter will handle the 12v but the 6v coil will NOT. You will need to change the coil.
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posted on September 3rd, 2013 at 07:23 PM



i'm using a 12v battery
i used a 6v coil first up, then changed over to a 12v coil.
still the same problems though
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posted on September 3rd, 2013 at 08:19 PM



you will need to change the condenser on the side of your distributor as well, for a 12v one.
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posted on September 4th, 2013 at 07:40 PM



do you need the condensor hooked up?
i thought this was just to suppress noise for radios.
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posted on September 4th, 2013 at 08:47 PM



There is no difference in the condensers a 12v or 6v distributor will work,the condenser is rated in microfarads not volts.
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posted on September 4th, 2013 at 09:15 PM



yes you need to hook it up, im not 100% sure if they are the same 6v to 12v but i had allways changed anyway. 100% sure you need to have it connected up.
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posted on September 5th, 2013 at 06:23 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by torana
do you need the condensor hooked up?
i thought this was just to suppress noise for radios.

The condenser is fitted to the side of the distributor and in most cases the primary wire is attached to it so unles you cut the wiring on the dist it will be ok,just clean the points or fit a new set,adjust them and try it again.
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posted on September 6th, 2013 at 09:50 PM



ok thanks guys :)
i'll be giving it a try tomorrow
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posted on September 7th, 2013 at 06:57 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by novasmic
im not 100% sure if they are the same 6v to 12v but i had allways changed anyway.


I am 100% sure.

You cannot buy a 6V condensor. They are all the same 6V,12V & 24V.




I read it on samba, so it must be correct.

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posted on September 7th, 2013 at 06:19 PM



got spark and preliminary firing...plus an actual small fire :dork:
is OK, was contained (excess fuel from filling carby)
will get some new fuel line tomorrow, as the old stuff leaked after the fuel pump finally sucked some fuel up. :smilegrin::smilegrin:


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