| [ Total Views: 1346 | Total Replies: 16 | Thread Id: 103586 ] |
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 HendrikO
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| posted on September 27th, 2013 at 02:12 PM |
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Left rear Hub nut... Options?
So I have gone at the left rear hub nut with everything i've got, essentially two bars jammed between the nuts in the wheel and the center to prevent
the whole wheel from turning as well as a breaker bar with another bar on it that makes it about 2 meters. The weak point is what i use to jam the
wheel to stop it turning, no matter what i use it ends up being bent.
My question is: Do i try and cut the hub nut off very carefully? Or there another, preferably free, option?
Thanks in advance for any help :D
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on September 27th, 2013 at 02:18 PM |
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There is a special tool you can get that creates enough torque to crack the nut open. They use it also for the type 1 gland nut at the flywheel.
Maybe you could hire one from your local classic vw parts shop.
Heat on the nut is another open. It will allow it to expand, this combined with putting a socket over it, and whacking it with a hammer, can help free
the stub axle thread from the nut thread with rust etc binding it together.
Persistance is the next thing you need.  Cutting has big risks
associated with damaging the stub axle.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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HendrikO
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| posted on September 27th, 2013 at 02:45 PM |
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Awesome! I'll have a look for something to heat it up a bit with, i didn't even think about it...
If that still doesn't work I'll have to go and see a VW guy i guess.
Thanks for the suggestions, appreciate it.
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 matberry
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| posted on September 27th, 2013 at 03:20 PM |
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Before using heat, I'd recommend you make a plate that bolts to the brake drum using 3 of the lug nuts, then attach a long strong pipe/shs/rhs with a
wall thickness substantial enough to do the job.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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 vw54
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| posted on September 27th, 2013 at 05:48 PM |
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as per above
make a plate and get a LOOOOOOOOOOOnger breaker bar leverage is the answer
ive never had one yet that I couldn't undo
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AA003
A.k.a.: Phill
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| posted on September 27th, 2013 at 05:53 PM |
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Put the car on the ground with the handbrake on and chock the wheels. Remove the split pin and push down, not up.
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.
Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!
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grumble
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| posted on September 27th, 2013 at 06:10 PM |
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Last resort drill several holes in the flat of the nut near the cotter pin slot almost to the axle,get a sharp cold chisel and a lump hammer and a
couple of good whacks will either split the nut or loosen it enough to undo. This means a new nut but is a lot better than wasting time buggering
around unless you enjoy that sort of thing.
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on September 27th, 2013 at 09:33 PM |
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Right tools make all the difference. I used to struggle and think I would break something etc...
Full weight car Adjusted drums and tight handbrake. 3/4" 36mm socket and very stiff breaker bar and crack she undoes. No weak points or flex I the
chain of components and you'll get it every time.
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grumble
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| posted on September 28th, 2013 at 07:15 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by HendrikO
So I have gone at the left rear hub nut with everything i've got, essentially two bars jammed between the nuts in the wheel and the center to prevent
the whole wheel from turning as well as a breaker bar with another bar on it that makes it about 2 meters. The weak point is what i use to jam the
wheel to stop it turning, no matter what i use it ends up being bent.
My question is: Do i try and cut the hub nut off very carefully? Or there another, preferably free, option?
Thanks in advance for any help 
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Here is an idea shag around for a week,make brackets etc,adjust brakes,chock wheels,get big bars and extension pipes etc and then drill the nut hit it
with a cold chisel and either split it or undo it and think 'why didn't I do that a week ago?".
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HendrikO
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| posted on September 30th, 2013 at 08:05 PM |
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HAhaha, amazing help guys! I messed around with different bars and what-not for a while there before i resorted to asking a VW mechanic and borrowing
his rattle gun/impact wrench...
Nothing.
Here is the image of the actual thing - http://s900.photobucket.com/user/hendriknicoosthuizen/media/1384355_661970867...
The front of the kombi being to the left... Just to be sure, thats the direction im supposed to be turning it right? to the left?
I guess im just gonna have to saw/chisel/drill it off tomorrow.
Once more, thanks for all the help
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AA003
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| posted on September 30th, 2013 at 08:30 PM |
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Why is the wheel off?
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.
Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!
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tar76
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| posted on September 30th, 2013 at 08:44 PM |
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turn anti clockwise to loosen. Rattle gun didn't budge it??
"Obey your Dreams"!
62 Std beetle.
65 11 wnd Split "The Cross".
6? coming very soon!!!!
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on September 30th, 2013 at 09:09 PM |
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Other option I once drove to local vw shop asked them to crack the tension put the pin back in the castleated nut drove home slowly and undid it
easily?
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on September 30th, 2013 at 10:54 PM |
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Does the kombi run?
Set up a steel breaker bar on the nut, drive in the direction that will put the cars weight on the nut. Ensure the nut/socket is 100% aligned...
Time to cut it off anyways i rekon, if all the above hasn't worked...
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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grumble
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| posted on October 1st, 2013 at 01:00 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
Does the kombi run?
Set up a steel breaker bar on the nut, drive in the direction that will put the cars weight on the nut. Ensure the nut/socket is 100% aligned...
And pray like buggery that the bar doesn't flip off,come through the window and hit you on the head.
Time to cut it off anyways i rekon, if all the above hasn't worked...
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
23 Windows of Awesome
The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 672.
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| posted on October 1st, 2013 at 01:49 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by grumble
And pray like buggery that the bar doesn't flip off,come through the window and hit you on the head.
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sure! why not  ... or just be careful.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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grumble
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| posted on October 1st, 2013 at 07:22 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
| Quote: | Originally
posted by grumble
And pray like buggery that the bar doesn't flip off,come through the window and hit you on the head.
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sure! why not ... or just be careful.
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Sorry Chris but after 45 years in the trade i have seen the results of this sort of thing so many times with vehicles,parts damaged and people
injured,the easiest,quickest and cheapest way is to drill and cut the nut.
my last post on this subject and good luck Les
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