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posted on February 22nd, 2014 at 12:53 PM
WTB SYD 1972 Super Beetle Fuel Sender
Hello everyone,
I am located in Sydney.
I got a super beetle recently and the fuel gauge in the speedo is not working. The Previous Owner installed a separate VDO fuel gauge. However when
the fuel gauge reads 1/3 full, in fact the tank is empty - I learnt the hard way twice (so maybe I didn't learn).
I checked the gauge and the resistance range is 9.6 - 73 Ohms, and the fuel sender is only sending out between 10 Ohms (at full) and 35 Ohms at
empty.
I think the sender is supposed to give an output of 10 to 70 Ohms.
Does anyone have a spare functional fuel sender for the super beetle (dual float sender - part number: 113 919 051F)?
Please let me know if you do, or if you can give further suggestions on what I should do.
Cheers,
Av
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scot70wagon
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posted on February 22nd, 2014 at 01:06 PM
I have one up here in newcastle. If you need one.
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rebel
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posted on February 22nd, 2014 at 02:19 PM
it looks like a good VDO sending unit to me... if it's working, that is.
Look inside the little square holes inside the sending unit. While moving the floats up or down, look to see a sort of plastic sort of deal with wire
wrapped around it--all along its length. That is your rheostat. If the wire is bunged up in there or the plastic is broken or burnt, get a new sender.
However, the Ohm test will tell you if there's a problem, for certain.
Your "Vibrator" is a device on the back of your speedometer. The power for the whole fuel-gauge system attaches to this vibrator. Another wire,
then goes from the vibrator, directly to the gauge. The vibrator's function is to reduce the 12 volts we have into about 5 volts--thus protecting our
very fine wires in the sender rheostat and fuel gauge, itself.
Your vibrator may be one of the original metal-jacketed ones. When these failed, they allowed the full 12 volts into the fuel gauge and
sender--burning out their wires.
The new vibrators (encased in black plastic)--when they fail-- do NOT allow a full 12 volts into the other parts of the system. They just fail, so
you need only replace the vibrator and not a gauge or a sender--or both.
Each vibrator type also has an "L" shaped flat metal piece that grounds the vibrator to the rest of the speedometer, by the way. You'll see this
when you access the back of your speedometer.
Do you know how to access your fuel gauge and vibrator that's attached to your speedometer? Ask, if you need help with it.
toonyboy
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posted on February 22nd, 2014 at 04:03 PM
The new fuel gauge is completely independent of the old one, it seems to be wired straight from the sender to the gauge, and the power supply to the
gauge looks hard wired to the fuse rack.
I would love to put a new fuel gauge back into the speedo, but think they are hard to find, and still at this moment think that my sender is playing
up.
The rheostat (windings) look good. Just not sure if the range of the sender is correct, it does't match the input requirements of the gauge.
scot can you tell me the resistance at full and empty (if that is not too much trouble), if it is 10-100 Ohms then mine is wrecked and I would like to
get the sender off you.
Cheers,
Av
scot70wagon
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posted on February 22nd, 2014 at 09:34 PM
Mate all I can tell you is that it was working fine when I took it out. What type of Guage is it. I may have one of those here as well.
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toonyboy
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