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Author: Subject:  WRX + 5speed into 62 Beetle
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posted on March 3rd, 2017 at 05:43 PM
Welded Horns


Hi All

Thanks Greg and Steve for your comments.

BUT I found some 4mm flat bar that is about 3 x as thick as the original horn size. I just cut it up and welded it in and it works fine.

Good idea with the round pipe though! Greg thanks for your offer of your super bug horns.

It is more than strong enough and here is the pic before I grind back the welds......

cheers

Mark

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posted on March 3rd, 2017 at 06:17 PM
Horns completed


Hi All

I have not spent too much time on making this modification super pretty as you will not be able to see anything once the flanges and Cv joints are installed.

The main thing for me is that it is strong and it is. I deliberately put a lot more weld on than was needed just to make sure the horns will not bend with Subaru power.

Now I have done this I am thinking of bracing the whole rear end with the Kafa bars that fix the horns to the body of the car.

Cheers

Mark

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posted on March 4th, 2017 at 10:43 AM



a piece of 3mm strip on its edge welded under under the horn would help.

I bought some cheap rose joints and threaded inserts from eBay UK and made cup bars using moly tube, nice and thin and fairly cheap to make
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posted on March 4th, 2017 at 02:20 PM
Frame horns


Hi Steve

Thats a great idea with the steel bar on its side. I will do that as my next job. If I weld 2 bits of bar together (say 300mm long and 50mm wide) then run some good thick welds down the length of it on both sides it will stiffen it up a lot for minimal effort. Watch this space!

I have now put the engine and gearbox in and it fits a treat. It is so good being able to get plenty of access from the back seat area.

More welds coming up!

cheers

Mark
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posted on March 4th, 2017 at 06:42 PM



Mark, 25x5 flat bar would be more than enough, and give better underbody clearance.
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posted on March 6th, 2017 at 05:43 PM
Frame Horn Mod


Hi All

Well I went and found some flat bar and then I noticed a bit of 40mm x 40mm x 5mm angle iron and thought yep thats better than flat bar!

I looked underneath and rather than weld it directly to the frame horns I decided to weld it to the engine and gearbox mounts. Then I put a few small welds along the length of the frame horns to tie it all in.

I think this a good strong support for the engine now. Whilst it will still want to twist when the power is on but I think it should minimise it a fair bit.

Well thats my hope anyway

Thanks for your comments Greg and Steve it is appreciated.

Cheers

Mark

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posted on March 7th, 2017 at 02:10 PM



great work
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posted on March 7th, 2017 at 10:13 PM



Not bad! Happy to offer advice on welding and fabrication where I can.
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posted on March 12th, 2017 at 07:53 PM
IRS Installed


Hi All

Well its been a great week and I have got 'Vince' back on his wheels! It has been up on jack stands since last July waiting for my IRS that I never got nor my money back.

Now only 3 weeks after I got an alternative IRS from Greg in Kalgoorlie it is all installed and ready for the next section.

I feel like I am on a down hill run now with not a huge amount left to do.

In the below pics you can see what parts you need to install the IRS with a Subi gearbox. All of these axle parts I got from Brad at 'Subistuff' in the US and Todd at Subarugears it all fits a treat.

Just to recap you need.......

1. Kombi CV Joints and 8mm bolts
2. Extended Suba flange from Todd at Subarugears
3. Custom axles that are 13 3/16 OR 335mm. you only need this axle length if you are using the 'extended flanges that drop the motor 75mm lower so you don't have to cut the external body
4. Type 1 to type 2 stub axles which you need to use the kombi CV joints I got these from Rod Penrose

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posted on March 12th, 2017 at 08:03 PM
Next stage


Now he is back on all 4 wheels I will finish off all the mechanical bits like: Radiator hoses, brake and Clutch lines. As well as all the associated stuff that is attached to the engine

I used the slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch from the standard WRX gearbox mount. I have also finished the exhaust and I will take a couple of pictures soon as it is dark and wet outside.

I am not looking forward to the wiring and am also thinking of the best place to put the Engine Control Unit. I was thinking of under the back seat would probably be the best spot.

It is a bit of a pain wherever I put it as I have to connect to the steering column and dash but I will get there....

The marks you can see on the door are 'bullet holes'...I know it is tacky but I like it as it also goes with the blue fluffy dice hanging from the inside door handle!

Thanks for looking and following the progress. I wanted this build to be step by step so that if you were considering doing this modification that you can have a rough idea of what you need to do....

Cheers

Mark

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posted on March 13th, 2017 at 09:06 AM



A tip with coolant hoses that I learnt, put all the bends in solid pipe and use bits of straight hose to join it all up, that way you only need a length of straight hose for repairs and after it has been running for a while give all the hose clamps another go over with a socket and rachet
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posted on March 13th, 2017 at 09:38 AM
Tip


Hi Steve

Thanks for the tip I will do that.....

cheers

Mark
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posted on April 2nd, 2017 at 07:48 PM
Engine in yay!


Hi All

Well I have now got the engine and gearbox in. Feels like there is not much left now. I have done the fuel lines and water lines.

You may notice with the water lines that I have gone the other way and made it go across the engine bay to the other side. I felt that the turn on the pipe was too tight to do it on the other side. Plus my 38mm water pipe also went along the drivers side.

I maintained the standard radiator overflow but I had to make a bracket to move it into the centre about 5 inches to make room for the air cleaner. You can see the placement in the first pic.

In the last pic you can see how much room there is from taking a pic whilst sitting in the back. Very easy to work on like this. I made some stain less steel brackets out of pipe to mount the intercooler to the gearbox.

I am hoping to have him started in the next couple of weeks. All I have left to do is the wiring (going to be a bit a headache I think). I have mounted the ECU under the back seat on the passenger side and I currently have all the marked loose wires that need to go to the front ready for connection. I bought some 7 core wire and will just use a couple of bits and that should be plenty.

There are heaps of small jobs that I have done that if you do this conversion you will need to work out how to do it. Things like the gearbox to standard shifter connection etc.


1. A question where do the 2 pipes go from the overflow????? Into another container maybe for a completely closed system????? Or just allow the excess to go on the floor???? At the moment I have no idea????

2. A question though what gearbox oil do you recommend?

3. What are the stainless steel pipes that run parallel to the intercooler??? I dont know what they are for but I connected them anyway.


Anyway thanks for looking


Cheers

Mark

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posted on April 21st, 2017 at 01:51 PM
New Dash + Wiring


Hi All

I had decided that the dash that I previously had lost something 'old looking' inside the car and I wasn't happy with it. I wanted a blend of the old and new and it seemed a lot more new than old.

SO I pulled it all out and tried numerous different combinations to get it to 'work' as per my criteria. My other half was really helpful as when I called her to have a look if it was not looking right she would say 'that looks shit' and then go on to explain why!

I tried all sorts of wraps, stainless steel, polished aluminium but in the end decided on wood!

I got a nice piece of jarrah laminate and started from there as well as getting new dash knobs and a steering wheel.

I am now really happy with how it looks and fells like a good blend.

I found a good IPad mount from JB HIFI and fixed it to the dash. It is magnetic so if you leave the car you can just remove it in a flash. I really wanted to use the IPad because of 'Dash Command" as it plugs straight into the OBD2 plug on the ECU and you can see everything it is outputting. You can even design your own dash's to display what items you consider needful. Plus for $15 what a bargain! There is also loads of custom dash's online that people have made. I like one that is a big Tacho. Another feature is that it uses the accelerometer and has a quarter mile timing section that even gives you 60 foot times. As it is on a swivel mount I can have it facing me as it is in the pic.


The wiring was giving me a real headache in trying to use the Subaru loom as well as the old VW loom. So I thought fuck this I am starting from the beginning!

So I went and bought a complete loom for a standard Street Rod ($300) that had every wire labeled where it needed to go and a new fuse box and relays also included. If you are considering re-wiring your car then I highly recommend you look at this option both for cost and ease of doing it.

Not much left to do now before he can run. But I am apprehensive and almost scared to complete him and find myself fluffing around the edges and making changes to things rather than getting on with it and getting him to go!. The dash is another example of this fluffing around however it could have waited until he was going to fiddle with that.

My other half kept saying to me 'what are you doing that for you should be getting him done not doing things 2 or 3 times! You cant see it properly in the pics but I have put in a new 'push button start' like in the latest model cars. it is where the old ignition switch was. I will wire it up so you use the key to turn on the ignition and press the button to start. Bit of 'Wank factor' but I like it!

Anyway this is the current progress which is the direct result of my fiddling around the edges!

cheers

Mark

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posted on April 21st, 2017 at 03:24 PM



Super neat work on the wiring! Only thing is get rid of is the turbocharged badge on the dash. Kinda looks tacky to me.
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posted on April 22nd, 2017 at 08:27 PM
Changed now


Hi Greg

Yep you said exactly what I was thinking!.......My other half also said the same thing!.....Truth of the matter is that the 'Turbocharged' badge was covering up some holes in the dash where the Tacho was mounted!

As the dash is leather it was a pain in the arse to redo it again....BUT I have!.....All clean and neat now!

Thanks for 'encouraging' me to fix it......Glad I have done it now.

Cheers

Mark
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posted on April 23rd, 2017 at 06:13 PM



Hi mate just read your thread from start to finish so glad i did thank you. I am doing a Superbug same conversion with Suparu gears can't reccomend Todd enough.
Do you have more photos of your firewall mods did you space it into the cab and is it screwed back on?

Cheers Kiwi
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posted on April 23rd, 2017 at 09:01 PM
Firewall mods


Hi

I made a 'box' that was the same width and height as between the rear wheel tubs and the drain under the rear grille.

I used a angle grinder and cut out the same size as the box I made.

So it also has a 'roof' to it as well. It goes as far back as it can as the original body will let you as it curves up on the floor and that is how far I went.

The metal sheet is directly behind the back seat. Then on top of this I made a wood panel to fit behind the back seat and it is covered with leather from the back window to the seat. Basically a parcel shelf to put some speakers on if you wanted to.

What I did do was make the sheet directly behind the seat removable with about 8 nuts and bolts.When I have taken pictures I am in the rear seat area.

I have welded the box to the rear wheel tubs but you could just as easy bolt it in.

This mod makes it sooo much easier to work on as you are not cramped for space at all and you cant tell from the inside that any mod has been done. With the motor installed you cant even see where it is joined to the tubs. Unless you were a real VW person you would think it was standard.

I also lined the metal box with insulation to cut down the noise...

In my opinion to not make this mod makes the conversion so much more difficult to install the engine and then work on it in the future........I am so glad I did it

Hope this helps.......

I agree Todd at Subaru gears was extremely helpful and he could of not done any more to help and advise me so I 100% recommend him to anyone considering the Subaru gearbox mod. Also the engine and gearbox mounts from him make the conversion a bolt in fit with no issues. Other than the one with my frame horns that needed mods as already shown.

I am loving doing this build. It seemed a huge headache and job before I started but now it is all worth it!. Most of the issues is finding out what you need to do! This forum is the best place to look by far!!!!

Some other info is also on VWKD in the UK and also 'shoptalk forums' is also helpful...


Cheers


Mark
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posted on May 17th, 2017 at 04:30 PM
WiFi and Dash Command


Hi All

I have just about finished all of the wiring now and therefore getting close to 'seeing if it will work' and that is scary!

Anyway I thought I was going to have to find a cable to plug into my OBD2 connector to get access to the ECU but you dont!

All you need is a WiFi 'code reader' that plugs into the OBD2 port and links in with my IPad via the 'dash command' app that I bought for $15 from the Itunes store.

I could of bought a Chinese code reader off Amazon for around $25 (US) called an ELM327. However I found out that JCar also has their own reader for $70. So I decided to go with the local version.

As my VW is not in a running state yet I connected my VE ute to it and it was easy to connect and all I had to do was download code reader software (in instructions) from ITunes and it connected in with no issues. I wanted to see if it had any lag to it but there was nothing that I could notice.

JCar have 2 options one for Ipad IOS devices and another for Android. If you have an Ipad then 'Dash Command' is required for it to run. But if you have an android then it is a program called 'Torque". In looking at the reviews of both apps they are very close to each other.

I am expecting quite a few 'error codes' when I attempt to start it and at least this will show me the codes and make it far easier for me to fix had I not had it.

For a total cost of $85 to display anything I believe is a real bargain.

Cheers

Mark

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posted on June 5th, 2017 at 12:45 PM
Starting Engine


Hi All

Well I have almost finished everything now! However I had a wiring issue with the ECU but Andrew from AGT Engineering was really helpful and pointed me in the right direction.

I now have another problem it wont start!

Fuel pump comes on, Main relay, TGV valve and I can feel the fuel line and there is petrol at the engine...It cranks..

I have damaged both of the TGV on the LHS of the engine and have removed them to get some new ones. Could this be a reason?

Any Ideas?



I have also put some 32 Ford door handles on and I am happy with them as it gives a bit of a Street Rod look! Probably crap but I like it!

Cheers

Mark

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posted on June 6th, 2017 at 04:04 PM



Great work mate not sure of your start issue is there spark when you crank?

Cheers Kiwi
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posted on June 7th, 2017 at 08:11 PM
Spark


I was not confident that I had done my loom with no errors. So I started tracing wires and then I thought beggar it I will check it all right from the start! I did find a couple of wires that I had missed!

So off came all the tape and I traced each wire to make sure I had put it where it should go. Now I have just finished putting tape back on it and putting it back into the car.......Now Iam confident that it Is all spot on now....

I know I have petrol and next I will check to see if I have a spark and then go from there.

It is so close to being able to drive. Another problem that I need to fix is the hydrolic clutch ......I used the master cylinder from the WRX thinking that it should be fine. But! It wasn't! It is pretty hard to push. I have put it down to the length of the pedal pivot. The WRX pedal is about 2 1/2 times longer than the VW and hence you have far more leverage....

So I am going to get another master cylinder with more uummppphhh....

Water is in the radiator with no leaks! I thought that my welding would let me down but all good! Next check will be the exhaust when it fires up. No fuel leaks either..

Question though has anyone had any issues with the Scat gear stick coupled to the 5 speed box?

I don't know for sure but the gear stick does not seem to move much from side to side and I think it is not enough to select all the gears. I will know for sure when I drive it..

Cheers

Mark
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posted on June 8th, 2017 at 11:03 AM



Hope it works out mate isn't there a clutch kit on that USA web site where Subugears send you to get the shorten drive shafts not sure on the gear stick I was wondering that too? I guess Todd may know is ne still in the states??

Cheers Kiwi
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posted on June 8th, 2017 at 05:16 PM



On the gear lever, I too had a short shifter, but it made the gear change quite heavy, especially the 5th gate. Ended up using a stock one and it is nice and light.
The hydraulic clutch kit I used was a in tunnel master cylinder from Paul at out front motorsports, but it had slight ly too much throw so I had to put a stopper on the back of the stock clutch pedal as not to push the pressure plate through the clutch!




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posted on November 19th, 2017 at 10:41 AM
So Close


Hi All

Well its been a while since I posted!

I have had a huge problem and have only just nearly sorted it out!

I didn't realise that I needed the original key and key reader as well as the immobiliser controller! So I had to find a matched ECU and key as well as the immobiliser controller and key reader! Anyway if you are considering doing this conversion make sure you also get the steering column as well!

Now I have sorted the immobiliser problem out I still have a problem but I have no idea what it is. I have connected a WiFi OBD reader to the ECU and there are no fault codes. I turn the ign on and the fuel pumps turn on and the engine cranks but will not start.

I dont know how to how to check if the injectors are working nor if I have a spark. I do have 12v at the coil but I dont know what triggers it to fire!

HELP!:(

I am so close yet seemingly still miles away!

Cheers

Mark
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posted on November 24th, 2017 at 10:28 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by maloo

HELP!:(

I am so close yet seemingly still miles away!

Cheers

Mark


Mark give Miles a call at (just realised the joke typing this)

http://www.amauto.com.au/am/index.php 

he's extremely helpful and has done many VW /Subaru conversions. Well worth the phone call.




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posted on February 4th, 2018 at 07:39 PM



Hopefully you have already sorted this out. For me, I too could not start my car. I took out all four injectors and let them soak in injector cleaner and also checked my fuel pressure. After doing this, it started up. My engine had been sitting for a few years and I believe that my injectors were plugged up.



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Build Thread: http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=134735 
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posted on February 10th, 2018 at 07:16 PM
FOR SALE


Hi All

Well my VDub now runs!........YYYEEE HHHHAAA

BUT I am moving to Tasmania and will not be able to take him with me to finish him off as all I will have is a block of land and building a house so I have no time.

So he is for sale!

Bargain price of $10,500......

I am in Perth WA

marknal@iinet.net.au
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posted on February 21st, 2018 at 11:56 AM
Engine running


Hi All

Sounds really nice!

I have a video of it running but is too big to post so if you would like to hear it running send me your email.

marknal@iinet.net.au

Cheers

Mark
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