| [ Total Views: 1243 | Total Replies: 15 | Thread Id: 111417 ] |
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 sander288
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| posted on August 13th, 2016 at 01:36 PM |
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Full Flow + external cooler setups?
I am looking into some modifications to the oil system on my motor ('hot' 1300, single relief F series case) as I want to add a filter and have some
proper temperature regulation of the oil.
I'll be adding the thermostat flaps to the fan housing plus thermostat but wanted the oil to be regulated also, so this led me to look into full-flow
setups etc..
I have seen some of you are running external coolers only without the OE cooler in the fanshroud. I wanted to know how this setup is, and also whether
or not the schematic below is a feasible setup?
I think doubling relief valves at the pump cover and filter bracket may be unnecessary and would like to avoid any machining on parts (like the sump)
if at all possible so would option for the pump relief over bracket if 2 unnecessary.
CSP offers all these items, pump covers, thermostats, filter brackets, blockoffs and single relief valve fittings for oil return. What I am unsure
about is how to plumb the oil to a front mounted cooler? Materials (solid pipes vs rubber/poly) routes (tunnel, heater channels, externally,
internally), and fitting of the cooler itself, some really neat examples from some german cars below.
The other options to improve oil cooling are, fitting an airflow systems 356 cooler ( 356 Cooler ) into the fanshroud OR switching over to a
doghouse setup. Neither of these add oil filtering or temperature regulation, and the doghouse requires a popped decklid which I want to avoid, along
with additional vents and the look etc... For the sake of the KISS principle the 356 could be the go, but isn't the best solution IMHO 
Any and all suggestions, comments, experiences welcomed.
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grinderman
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| posted on August 13th, 2016 at 05:42 PM |
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I'm currently setting up the oil system in my daughters 1835 powered kombi.
The case was originally tapped for full flow oiling when it was rebuilt so that's where the oil will return.
The standard doghouse cooler will still be used because I like the idea of the fan constantly blowing air over the cooler especially in traffic (as
the factory intended).
Air cooled motors especially in kombis really only get hot on the highway during the warmer months so thats when you need a second cooler but an
inline thermostat will keep oil from getting too cold.
Basically my set up will have the oil going from the high volume oil pump cover to an engine bay mounted spin on oil filter then it will go to the
thermostat which will only let oil go to the 96 plate underfloor mounted oil cooler with custom ducting to get maximum efficiency then its back to the
engine all filtered and at the correct temperature.
I'm not running a fan on the external oil cooler because I reckon the only time the thermostat will open up will be on the highway so there will be
plenty of air flow already.
This is in the process of being set-up and with an oil temp gauge when sorted I'll soon know if everything is sweet. This kombi will be driven in the
outback fully loaded and has been equipped accordingly.
Good luck with it all.
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 vw54
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| posted on August 13th, 2016 at 06:36 PM |
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I have similar cooler thermostat and filter
I would and have left the stock cooler in position it will not make any advantage removing it leave it stock KISS METHOD
the rest is good except a GOOD VW shop here can supply all the items u need without going to CSP my cooler hangers of the back torsion tube
how do you know """ I want to add a filter and have some proper temperature regulation of the oil. "" its getting hot ???
PIRTEK red oil hose is really good been on my car for 10 years or more
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1303Steve
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| posted on August 13th, 2016 at 06:47 PM |
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Hi
On my sons 1904 we're running without an internal cooler, your not making any power in traffic so it doesn't overheat. The cooler is in front of the
car behind an A/C apron, it uses an in line thermostat and once it opens that's about where the oil temps sit no matter what you.
It was running a filter pump but when we went to a A1 sidewinder header we changed to a pump to one with an in and out fitting on it and fitted a
filter under the rear mudguard.
My theory is removing the oil cooler from the dog house your plugging an air leak as with the dog house air gets expelled out the front of the motor,
so now more air can go to the rest of the motor.
Steve
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vwo60
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| posted on August 13th, 2016 at 07:38 PM |
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I have a 2054 in my green beetle with a Hayden oil cooler up the front behind the spare wheel well with a scoop, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/HDN3/1240/N0939.oap?ck=Search_N0939_... It has an thermostat and inline filter, this
is also equipped with a pressure relief valve back to the deep sump, I had an oil pressure problem when cold with the pressure at over 100 PSI, I set
the relief valve at the filter housing at 85 PSI cold, The engine is now ten years old and the oil pressure has been consistent, 20 PSI idle hot and
60 PSI hot at 3000 RPM, this is the maximum hot pressure, valve clearances are very consistent, there is also no standard oil cooler in the stock
location and have never had a over heating issue ever in any temperature, maximum oil temp I have seen is 200 F. I machined a return adaptor to
replace the oil cooler from two pieces of 12mm aluminium plate and all hoses are dash 8 except for the pressure relief line at dash 6.
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modnrod
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| posted on August 13th, 2016 at 08:51 PM |
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I'm just going to throw this out there as something to consider as a viable alternative.
Yes it works very well, cooler oil temps and the benefit of more air to the heads once you block of the doghouse "slot" (the Mex EFI Beetles used a
much smaller slot to get more air to the heads, so this just takes the OEM thinking all the way). If you go over bumpy corrugations all the time, like
gravel and baked clay (or perhaps Parramatta Rd?.......), it means you won't have to replace leaky oil cooler seals annually either.
Keep all the pump stuff stock. No drilling or tapping of the case for full flow, no restrictive hard-turn 90* fittings.
Stick a carefully calibrated big ugly bolt under your relief valve to hold it up tight constantly. This simulates very low oil pressure, which fools
it into thinking it's hot, which means all the oil goes to the oil cooler mount always all the time.
At the oil cooler mount fit something like this (caution: very old 70s stuff coming up!)......
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=vw+oil+cooler+bypass&client=safari&...
Run it to a oil filter mount with a thermostat head, then off to your choice of oil cooler and wherever you want it. You can add a pressure relief
either at the oil filter mount or get the Berg cover if you prefer.
Or you can do it like above too I guess.
PS: Oh, those blocks need cleaning up and/or blending inside too however, usually they are cheap and nasty.
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vwo60
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| posted on August 14th, 2016 at 08:32 AM |
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I had a berg cover and ended up removing it and putting the pressure relief valve at the filter as I found it worked better at dropping the oil
pressure.
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sander288
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| posted on August 14th, 2016 at 09:18 AM |
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Thanks for the replies!
| Quote: | Originally
posted by vw54
its getting hot ???
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Not getting hot, but also wouldn't know exactly as I don't have a gauge! (another item needed)
The main motivation is adding better oil filtration over and above the tea strainer in the sump, and by removing the cooler in the shroud getting more
air to the heads, and I also am wanting to put on a power pulley.
I Also know a particularly good shop that has CSP for same if not better prices than what I can get via their site, but I'm heading over to Europe at
the end of the year and dropping in 
The current shroud is a normal fresh air 1300 shroud (non-doghouse) so no need to block other holes etc...
VW060 do you have a picture of your front setup?
Where are most of you running the oil lines to the front? just under the pan or internally somehow?
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 Bizarre
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| posted on August 14th, 2016 at 07:18 PM |
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I would be getting a gauge first so as you have a reliable base line
Futue te ipsum!!!
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vwo60
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| posted on August 14th, 2016 at 07:39 PM |
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I ran 16mm steel hydraulic lines inside the car on the left side of the tunnel, I made nylon mounts for them and silver soldered the male AN fittings
to the tube. Penetrations under the back seat and behind the foot rest in the front.
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cnfabo
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| posted on August 14th, 2016 at 10:12 PM |
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If she's not running hot I think leave it alone.ive done the full flow thing with cooler at the front and also dry sump,its all a pain in the
arse,more lines,more leaks,more oil,bigger oil change etc etc..
And the std strainer is fine also,if vw thought it was shit they would have made it better..just another 2cents to confuse you more
Fabo
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nbturbo
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| posted on August 15th, 2016 at 12:36 AM |
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Sander, can you tell me what the colour is on your car please. That's exactly the colour I want to paint my new project.
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vwo60
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| posted on August 15th, 2016 at 05:58 AM |
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The standard strainer is not fine, ford did a study back in the day and found a full flow filter had major benefits. http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=244
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hus22l
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| posted on August 15th, 2016 at 08:16 AM |
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I was thinking of mounting an oil cooler under the rear parcel shelf in my beetle. I'm not going to use an electric fan. Ill Fashion a scoop to
direct some air to it (maybe an old engine sled tin could be re-purposed). I will likely also add a grill to protect it from road debris etc. Not
keen on running the cooler all the way to the front, whilst the distance will help cooling it may not help oil pressure - might need a bigger pump?
Return it back to the usual full flow return plug. I'll be using a berg pressure relief cover too.
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sander288
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| posted on August 15th, 2016 at 01:05 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by nbturbo
Sander, can you tell me what the colour is on your car please. That's exactly the colour I want to paint my new project.
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I never painted the car myself, but I have tried to find the exact colour. The closest I got was in the Holden colour range.
2 Options
'Warwick Yellow' - HK Monaro colour (also the 1968 Bathurst monaros colour)
'Cameo Yellow' - VH Commodore colour (probably a rehash of Warwick yellow TBH).
The colour is a little faded on the outside so does seem slightly lighter on my car.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by cnfabo If she's not running hot I think leave it alone.ive done the full flow thing with cooler at the front and also dry sump,its all
a pain in the arse,more lines,more leaks,more oil,bigger oil change etc etc..rnrnAnd the std strainer is fine also,if vw thought it was shit they
would have made it better..just another 2cents to confuse you morernrnFabo
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Thanks  When I do add a Power pulley she will run hotter than currently but a gauge is definately a sound 'low-cost' idea before
'oiling' up!
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OZ Towdster
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| posted on August 15th, 2016 at 05:34 PM |
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In regards to the inline oil thermostats , i have done fair bit of research myself of late , and have decided on the" Improved racing" thermostat
with the 165f opening temp .
It is servicable ,quality made , available with -6 to -12 fittings , and always flows 10% of the oil through the cooler so as to eliminate air locks
and cold shock when the thermostat opens , plus makes oil changes easier too
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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