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Author: Subject:  PCD Change + More
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posted on October 29th, 2017 at 11:24 PM
PCD Change + More


Hi All,
I am now at the point of putting together a list of parts and associated coasts per job for my Eureka, I am looking at going to Porsche lug pattern and brakes.
Does anyone know what is involved in doing this, and where I can get the parts to do so.
I also want to run a reverse camera, I will be making a custom center-console out of fiberglass so I need to know what spaces are required so I can make the slots the required size. What have you run in your car regarding the display, I would like a touch-screen display and new speakers etc.
What is involved in re-doing the entire front beam as I have records of it being re-built in 1984, it was last registered in 87 and has been sitting since with no use so it is aged and worn, the wheels can now both point in at once and I don't know what is wrong with that.
Any and all help is welcome as I need to put a list together and start buying parts.
Thanks M
(Pic 2 is what inside looks like now and Pic 1 shows how far the wheels can turn in on both sides.)

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posted on October 30th, 2017 at 08:00 AM



Porsche calipers get expensive.
Porsche bolt pAttern is easy.

Have a look on John Sherman's website




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posted on October 30th, 2017 at 10:34 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Bizarre
Porsche calipers get expensive.


I understand this, but in a car so light (~780kgs), they have a tendency to keep going or aquaplane in the wet and I know Porsche brakes help drastically.
I have heard of a guy using every thing from a Porsche from the stub-axles out to the wheels.
M




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posted on October 30th, 2017 at 01:54 PM



What type of suspension,
K&L or BJ
Swing or IRS
I have a full set of parts needed for Type 1 BJ /IRS and lots of extra parts
Calipers, hubs, trailing arms, brackets etc
John




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posted on October 30th, 2017 at 02:24 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by BlasterTheRedBajaBug
Quote:
Originally posted by Bizarre
Porsche calipers get expensive.


I understand this, but in a car so light (~780kgs), they have a tendency to keep going or aquaplane in the wet and I know Porsche brakes help drastically.
I have heard of a guy using every thing from a Porsche from the stub-axles out to the wheels.
M


Nah Porsche brakes wont help aquaplaning.and as you do have a light car beetle disc front drum rears will give excellent results.Also far cheaper as Barry states changing to Porsche PCD is easy and cheap but brakes ?




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posted on October 30th, 2017 at 02:30 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by waltermitty
Quote:
Originally posted by BlasterTheRedBajaBug
Quote:
Originally posted by Bizarre
Porsche calipers get expensive.


I understand this, but in a car so light (~780kgs), they have a tendency to keep going or aquaplane in the wet and I know Porsche brakes help drastically.
I have heard of a guy using every thing from a Porsche from the stub-axles out to the wheels.
M


Nah Porsche brakes wont help aquaplaning.and as you do have a light car beetle disc front drum rears will give excellent results.Also far cheaper as Barry states changing to Porsche PCD is easy and cheap but brakes ?


Well with bigger brakes I have seen them done before and that improved the car 10 fold in the wet with stopping and overall control of sliding around.
M




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posted on October 30th, 2017 at 02:32 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by CH5353
What type of suspension,
K&L or BJ
Swing or IRS
I have a full set of parts needed for Type 1 BJ /IRS and lots of extra parts
Calipers, hubs, trailing arms, brackets etc
John


Hi John,
I am 99.9% sure it is Ball Joint and IRS, I will send you a Pm regarding parts.
M




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posted on October 31st, 2017 at 06:17 AM



No brakes will improve aquaplaning , if you ask questions and have the answers already, why ask the questions, if you car is light and you install bigger brakes i would suggest it could aquaplane more under brakes in the wet, I have two cars with Porsche stud pattern and Mazda RX7 calipers and the brakes are great but a great deal of work went into getting the bias correct.
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posted on October 31st, 2017 at 06:32 AM



What vwo60 said ^^. Better tyres may help more than Porsche brakes.



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posted on October 31st, 2017 at 09:53 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by vwo60
if you ask questions and have the answers already, why ask the questions.

Well if you read the entire question, you would see where it asks, where do I get the parts from.
In future I would prefer that unless you are the only one who knows what the answer to a question that I ask is please refrain from answering the question.
Thanks
M




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posted on October 31st, 2017 at 01:22 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by BlasterTheRedBajaBug
Quote:
Originally posted by vwo60
if you ask questions and have the answers already, why ask the questions.

Well if you read the entire question, you would see where it asks, where do I get the parts from.
In future I would prefer that unless you are the only one who knows what the answer to a question that I ask is please refrain from answering the question.
Thanks
M


Thats not what he meant.




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posted on October 31st, 2017 at 05:49 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by BlasterTheRedBajaBug
What is involved in re-doing the entire front beam as I have records of it being re-built in 1984, it was last registered in 87 and has been sitting since with no use so it is aged and worn, the wheels can now both point in at once and I don't know what is wrong with that.


I doubt it is worn as you said it has been sitting around.
the beam can last forever ,
the wheels are pointing at each other as one of the tie rods is broken, bent or disconnected..




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posted on October 31st, 2017 at 08:44 PM



I have Porsche 944 Turbo brakes on my beetle, great in dry conditions but in the wet the fronts will lock up and skid, i have to keep greater distance from other cars in the wet as i can only press the brake pedal lightly, to prevent lock up. Look for my members ride thread as IIRC i put a list of parts and part numbers of the required Porsche components.



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posted on November 1st, 2017 at 05:39 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 66deluxe
I have Porsche 944 Turbo brakes on my beetle, great in dry conditions but in the wet the fronts will lock up and skid, i have to keep greater distance from other cars in the wet as i can only press the brake pedal lightly, to prevent lock up. Look for my members ride thread as IIRC i put a list of parts and part numbers of the required Porsche components.


Mate haven't you read the post - Michael's not interested in advice from people who know what they're talking about and have experience (even though he doesn't have a license yet and has never driven on the road in traffic) - He just wants to know where to get Porsche Brakes and how to fit them.




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posted on November 1st, 2017 at 06:18 PM



Finally, someone understands the question, and in regards to tires over brakes I am doing that too just I need to know where to get the parts for this before I can do that.
M




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posted on November 1st, 2017 at 06:35 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by BlasterTheRedBajaBug
Finally, someone understands the question, and in regards to tires over brakes I am doing that too just I need to know where to get the parts for this before I can do that.
M


Porsche wreckers and ebay. budget $3k at the least.




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posted on November 1st, 2017 at 06:37 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by karmann141
Quote:
Originally posted by 66deluxe
I have Porsche 944 Turbo brakes on my beetle, great in dry conditions but in the wet the fronts will lock up and skid, i have to keep greater distance from other cars in the wet as i can only press the brake pedal lightly, to prevent lock up. Look for my members ride thread as IIRC i put a list of parts and part numbers of the required Porsche components.


Mate haven't you read the post - Michael's not interested in advice from people who know what they're talking about and have experience (even though he doesn't have a license yet and has never driven on the road in traffic) - He just wants to know where to get Porsche Brakes and how to fit them.


Sorry i will go back to the cave i finally came out of. LOL




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posted on November 1st, 2017 at 07:19 PM



:lol: Just taking the piss.



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posted on November 2nd, 2017 at 06:58 PM



Quote:

Mate haven't you read the post - Michael's not interested in advice from people who know what they're talking about and have experience (even though he doesn't have a license yet and has never driven on the road in traffic) - He just wants to know where to get Porsche Brakes and how to fit them.


This is Brilliant, but you left out the part where in 6 months, Michael will also be offering advice to Newb AVD members based on his extensive experience!
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posted on November 2nd, 2017 at 09:41 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Euro_67
Quote:

Mate haven't you read the post - Michael's not interested in advice from people who know what they're talking about and have experience (even though he doesn't have a license yet and has never driven on the road in traffic) - He just wants to know where to get Porsche Brakes and how to fit them.


This is Brilliant, but you left out the part where in 6 months, Michael will also be offering advice to Newb AVD members based on his extensive experience!


Hi,
I don't fully understand why you would say this as I have never claimed to know everything nor said I know how to do certain things, THAT IS WHY I ASK FOR HELP, I DON'T KNOW HOW TO DO THE TASK. I ask questions to learn and help myself in not just getting the work done but to do it right. I have never said that I know how to do everything to a T hence my asking of this question.
I wish to know what you based you statement off as I am still a "Newb" myself and I am asking others for help because I don't know what to to or where to get the parts needed.
Michael




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posted on November 3rd, 2017 at 12:06 PM



Well it would aquaplane because it is light not the ineffectiveness of the brakes. My buggy aquaplanes with the best of them with old drum brakes on. the better the brake the more likely the wheels would lock up hence the invention of ABS brakes. I don't doubt that a kitcar weighs a fair bit less than the beetle body it replaced so bear in mind that's what the brakes were designed for.
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posted on November 3rd, 2017 at 04:23 PM



If you want to avoid aquaplaning you should look at improving down force, the easiest solution apart from driving extremely fast or not driving in torrential rain ( not a bad option for many reasons ) is lead ballast front and rear, and buy the best tires you can afford. Both of these will be cheaper and more effective than Porsche brakes and wont require an engineers certificate like they will.
But that is advice not an answer. Its good advice but yes not an answer. This is a forum after all and sometimes the best answer can be good advice even if its not the answer you want.
BTW your Eureka is awesome you are very lucky to have such a great start . I hope you can and do stick with it.
If not a cheap subie or skyline goes and handles like the clappers is more reliable and less effort BUT fuck keep away from the skyline forums those guys have all the answers and no advice. 8)




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posted on November 3rd, 2017 at 06:01 PM



Quote:

Hi,
I don't fully understand why you would say this as I have never claimed to know everything nor said I know how to do certain things, THAT IS WHY I ASK FOR HELP, I DON'T KNOW HOW TO DO THE TASK. I ask questions to learn and help myself in not just getting the work done but to do it right. I have never said that I know how to do everything to a T hence my asking of this question.
I wish to know what you based you statement off as I am still a "Newb" myself and I am asking others for help because I don't know what to to or where to get the parts needed.
Michael


Michael,
Where to start.
1. I have no filter. To all I have offended before Michael, please chime in and confirm this as fact!
2. I now have your attention.
3. Many before you have come and gone, and missed or dismissed good advice from more experienced and clever people, based on their ill informed opinion.

Now, here is the long bit......

I have been coming here on and off for years. I still manage to learn new things, even though I have been mucking around with VWs since the late 80's.

Just because you have seen or want a feature for your modified car, does not necessarily make it the best solution.

When you ask a question on a forum you will get lots of answers, and some you didnt even expect. You received some good advice about your intended Porsche brake question that you quickly dismissed as they wern't the answer you were expecting. Be open minded and consider the responses people provide as you are benefiting from their years of experience, and often expensive mistakes.

And BTW, I too agree with Mitchell, the Purvis is cool. Make it roadworthy and safe as a priority. This is easily achieved with inexpensive standard parts, especially if you are on a budget.
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posted on November 4th, 2017 at 12:43 AM



Hi,
I have not dismissed any of the answers I have been given, I understand that people think I have, but all have been noted and considered.

So, lets re-write the question I initially asked.

I have a lightweight kit car therefore I would like to have it aqua-plane a lot less than what they have been known to, what would you consider as a good option for rim and tire combinations for such a car, I would like to have around a 9ish inch wheel in the back and between 5 and 7 inch in the front and no massive camber be it positive or negative.
I would like to also know what PCD would best suit a car like this that offers wheels and tyres that would suit a street car ie. not lowered and no off-road use at all.
Lastly I would like to know what brakes if not stock would help with stop and go traffic as well as a fir bit of high-way use.
All this is said with no set budget as it is mostly based on the safety of the car and that for me is one of the main priorities.
Thanks
Michael




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posted on November 4th, 2017 at 08:34 AM



My list of safety mods would be. As much extra weight upfront as possible, a very well set up front and rear end with no chinese/bendy dropped spindles etc.Pcd makes zero diffrence to saftey so it is what is is. Brakes i would go with stock on the front and wide type 3 late bug drums on tbe rear dual master cylinder and an adj bias valve,competition liningings on the rear. And as for rims and tires your gonna hate this, skinny/stock sized rims on the front with a very soft tire sometbing like a colway vintage rally snow tire.The fatter the tire and lighter the car more chance of aquaplaning. Look at any video of the. WRC 1000lakes rally especially group b quattros you can see how weight on tbe front downforce and skinny tires all combined get the job done. Sorry man im not cool never will be but when my shits not broken nobody passes me:cool:
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posted on November 4th, 2017 at 09:12 AM



Hi

Avoiding aquaplaning is easy, take it easy in the rain, I'm running 225/40x18s on the front of my bug with no issues, extra caster helps with the steering pulling into puddles.

I cant advise on what size or offset as I'm not sure how much clearance you have, check with local rego people or engineer to see what you can legally use.

Changing stud pattern opens up a lot wheel options, 114.3x5 would have the widest choice and Porsche 5x130 wheels look cool

To be legal you would need to use blank rotors and drums and have them drilled to suit your wheel choice.

Type rear drums are a good budget choice, for rear discs AU Falcon brakes can be easily adapted.

Early Type 3 front calipers have a larger piston and bolt onto any Beetle stub axle, you can pick the difference from Beetle twin pin calipers easily, the Beetle ones have 2 bleed nipples and the Type 3 have single bleed nipples.

I'm not sure about Qld but bias valves are illegal in NSW

Steve
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posted on November 5th, 2017 at 08:22 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by coletrickle
My list of safety mods would be. As much extra weight upfront as possible, a very well set up front and rear end with no chinese/bendy dropped spindles etc.Pcd makes zero diffrence to saftey so it is what is is. Brakes i would go with stock on the front and wide type 3 late bug drums on tbe rear dual master cylinder and an adj bias valve,competition liningings on the rear. And as for rims and tires your gonna hate this, skinny/stock sized rims on the front with a very soft tire sometbing like a colway vintage rally snow tire.The fatter the tire and lighter the car more chance of aquaplaning. Look at any video of the. WRC 1000lakes rally especially group b quattros you can see how weight on tbe front downforce and skinny tires all combined get the job done. Sorry man im not cool never will be but when my shits not broken nobody passes me:cool:


Hi,
I spoke to a friend who has a registered Eureka, and he said that he had to remove a lead ballast (I think that is what he called it), as in an accident all weights have to be secured according to mass so a ballast would have to be welded in, and being fiberglass there is no point in the nose that is metal.
The only extra weight I can add, and will be adding are, a spare tire and the battery. The washer bottle for the wipers is already there along with the brake fluid reservoir.
M




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posted on November 6th, 2017 at 05:52 AM



Over the last 60 or so years, I've tried just about everything to make a Beetle handle and stop. It's not easy, as it is not the ideal design for a car. ;)

That said, it is possible to improve these things greatly, without going to a lot of expense. As I've mentioned before, tyres can make a tremendous difference.

Adding too much weight in front of the front wheels can upset the high-speed handling, so beware! Even a GOOD set of stock drum brakes, with the correct front/rear bias can work very well, particularly on a light car such as yours. As Steve said, drive to suit weather conditions.

It is good to see that you are thinking about what you are doing to the Eureka...enjoy the journey!

Cheers, Greg




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