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Author: Subject: How to modify teh EJ20 Sump for clearance
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posted on September 20th, 2003 at 10:43 PM
How to modify teh EJ20 Sump for clearance


Here is a webiste that I think will help people out. Thanks to Col for teh link.

http://www.mcn.org/b/roadcow/oilpan.html




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posted on September 21st, 2003 at 05:40 PM


:thumb
Cheers for that snippet of info might come in handy ;)




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posted on September 21st, 2003 at 07:19 PM


Cool. I don't think it would be ideal for hi performance use tho, since I'm assuming it cuts down the amount of oil the motor has access too. Coupling it with a dry sump however :-D
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posted on September 21st, 2003 at 08:15 PM


Have a close look at it cam, it seems to be wider and longer so I don't think it loses any capacity.



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posted on September 22nd, 2003 at 12:24 PM


is there anywhere in australia (or preferably victoria) that could do that? i would love to lower my kombi, but i cant at the moment because my exhausts and sump hang soooo low. the exhausts i can get fixed, but is there anywhere i can get the sump done?



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posted on September 22nd, 2003 at 08:23 PM


I see now. Looks cool, but I dunno, gives me the ifs and butts:( But maybe thats just me.
Would be interesting to see what the works rally teams use in the WRC cars.
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posted on September 22nd, 2003 at 08:49 PM


Cam, I believe the capacity is exactly that of the original. They retain the original windage tray so I dont think there should be any problem with foaming etc.
there is really no advantage in going dry sump with the subie motor as far as i see it as there is still the exhaust clearance issue.
In the factory wrx's they use stock sumps because the engine is higher in the car and clearance is not a problem.

Busbaycamperkid, as far as i know no-one in oz makes those sumps. You would want to be careful in ordering one someone else has made like the kenedy eng. one because it may not be compatible with your crossmember. i intend to build my own and i will post some pics on the forum when it is done but it may be a while,
I suggest you make friends with someone who has a mig or preferably tig welder.

Col
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posted on September 22nd, 2003 at 09:30 PM


thanks. i wondered if someone like castlemaine rod shop might have done that sorta thing?



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posted on September 22nd, 2003 at 09:55 PM


just thought I'd add some eye candy :) found this when I was trying to figure out the sump problem...never managed to find one available off the shelf...tho this one looks pressed? or just some really....really nice sheet work!!
they look great without the cam belt covers huh!


[Edited on 22-9-2003 by dan]

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posted on September 23rd, 2003 at 08:17 AM


man that sump looks nice!! cant tell if it is pressed or just nicely fabricated by a trickster

pitty the pic isn't from below,

they do look good without the cam belt covers, not too practical though
my harmonic looks nothing like that un
must be for an air plane of something i think
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posted on September 23rd, 2003 at 08:22 AM


I think sharpbuilt in Queensland has them on the way or already is making them. I sent him an email but no reply yet.
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posted on September 23rd, 2003 at 08:49 AM


that sump looks like it might also be die cast aluminium. Similar texture to the valve covers?



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posted on September 23rd, 2003 at 11:38 PM


just modify it yourself :) just make sure that when you tig it up that the remnants of the sump are still bolted to the block. Kit car guys do this all the time.
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posted on October 14th, 2003 at 12:40 PM


Mike Sharp of Sharp Built in Toowoomba QLD http://www.sharpbuilt.com.au 
sells adaptor plates to mate Subaru motors to VW transaxles. He will also have available by Xmas a shortened alloy sump. The sump is 3 inches (75mm) shorter than stock and carries the same oil capacity as stock. I read somewhere that you shouldn't shorten the sump more than about 2 ½ inches as you will end up with oil frothing problems. I will try and find out where that came from, as this may have also been in relation to a reduced oil capacity. I don't know how much shorter the KEP sump is, but it does maintain the original capacity. Any way, see Mike's comments below:

"To modify a stock sump like KEP do it will cost about $250-$300
This is why:
A new steel 'sump box' has to be made and welded up, holes are then
cut to let the oil sucker tube go through and extra hole's made to let the
oil fall into the sump, and the dip stick tube has to be repositioned.

The donor sump then has to have the baffle plate removed and then the
sump is cut to the new level and the new 'sump box' welded on

I can make a brand new alloy sump for about the same price as a welded
one and there is no exchange required, that's why I am making one for my
EJ 2.5 engine going into my new dune buggy, It will also look much nicer
than a welded up sump.

Regards Mike Sharp"

[Edited on 14-10-2003 by Jenny]

[Edited on 14-10-2003 by Jenny]
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posted on October 14th, 2003 at 07:29 PM


what is the price on the sumps he is geting in for christmas? are there any for an ea81?



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posted on October 15th, 2003 at 12:45 PM


He said he could make it for about the same cost as a modified steel one ~ $250 to $300, but I don't know what he's going to sell them for.
The sump will fit all EJ's - 20/22/25. Don't know about your motor.


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