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posted on August 31st, 2002 at 02:00 AM
Raising a VW
Does anyone have experience (legally and practically) with raising a VW. The local transport authority mentions vaguely that people in remote areas
(like me) may make modifications to suit the local terrain. The air-cooled VW is ideally suited to our "semi-arid tropical" climate (read:
"hot to bloody hot, no rain," but is a little lacking in ground
clearance for some of the local "roads."
I've chosen most mods in order to avoid the need for an engineer's certificate; can anyone make suggestions of what I can do to raise my
vehicle a few inches? I've seen forged front spindles of up to 3'' raised advertised in US mags, anyone know if they're legal
here?
BTW, it's Ball Joint with disk front, IRS with drum rear, 1970 model with original rego.
[Edited on 30-8-2002 by 70AutoStik]
[Edited on 30-8-2002 by 70AutoStik]
kombi_kid
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posted on August 31st, 2002 at 07:48 AM
hey
over this way down in sydney call Custom bugs and Bus's that make a lift kit!
try them : ph0247229313 or fax:0247229312
cheers
rhys
p.s. whats it for?
[Edited on 30-8-2002 by kombi_kid]
Baja Wes
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posted on August 31st, 2002 at 08:44 AM
Hi,
I wouldn't bother ringing CBB. They make Kombi lift kits but you have a beetle.
It is the rough guide to vehicle mods in NSW. Most other states are similar, and they will all be the same at the end of the year when the new
australia wide rules come in. The NSW rules say:
Suspension
Besides assuring a comfortable ride, a vehicle’s suspension system controls wheel movement for
handling and road holding. Manufacturers conduct extensive test programs to develop suitable
suspension settings. Adjustments, such as lowering the vehicle, can upset the suspension characteristics
and cause unpredictable handling. Generally, roll stabilizer bars, axle locating rods, upgraded shock
absorbers or upgraded springs may be used provided they are suitable for the vehicle and are properly
fitted. However, the following suspension modifications are not acceptable:
a) welding forged components such as stub axles or control arms;
b) fitting longer, non-standard shackles to leaf springs; and
c) fitting any additional components or altering the suspension so that the wheels or tyres may contact
any component under the full range of suspension and steering travel.
d) fitting any additional components or altering the suspension ride height so that any part of the
vehicle other than a wheel or tyre can contact the road in the event of a tyre deflation.
If major changes to the suspension (such as substitution of a non standard front cross member) are carried
out, they should be done under the strict guidance of an engineering signatory.
That doesn't say much really. The QLD rules also say that the suspension travel in either bump or rebound mode cannot be modified more than 1/3
of standard. Which isn't much but not many people are going to whinge about this one. Don't know if it applies in WA.
You can easily raise the rear of your car by resetting the torsion bars. one spline will give you a fair bit of lift. Just set it so you have a bit of
wheel downtravel left (rebound) otherwise you'll get a rough ride.
The front can have adjuster installed and you can then easily vary the height of the front suspension.
Those two mods will give you good results. You can also go for aftermarket raised spindles on the front, but I would go for factory VW type 181 thing
front suspension first. It is a direct swap for the BJ front. It basically has factory raised spindles.
I would also put taller tyres on. The tallest wheels you can fit under the wheel arches would be good. I'm sure you could argue they are needed
for your local terrain.
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posted on September 3rd, 2002 at 02:22 PM
Wes said:
>I would also put taller tyres on. The tallest wheels you can fit under the wheel arches would be good. I'm sure you could argue they are
needed for your local terrain.
That's fine Wes, so long as you realise that your speedo will now under-read and the cops will love you big time..."please sir, how could I
be going 75kmh in this 60 zone - my speedo was saying only 59!"
The rest of the post was good, although I would mention that rotating just one spline on the rear axle would result in a ridiculous amount of lift,
since one outer spline results in a 8.1 degree angle change and one inner spline results in an 9 degree angle change on the spring plate.
You have to use a one-up, one-down rotation on the inner and outer splines, and each "double rotation" will give you about 1/2-3/4 inch lift
(or drop, depending on which way you do it.)
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic http://www.vw-resource.com
Baja Wes
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posted on September 3rd, 2002 at 04:22 PM
Rob,
Recalibrating the speedo is so easy I could teach my dog to do it You get
a calculator, and calculate the ratio your tyre diameters. Say the new ones are 110% percent taller. So you will be going 110% faster than what your
speedo says. So what do you do? You get a video cassette label with lots of little numbers. You take the glass face off your speedo and stick the
number labels on in the new coorect position. So on the speedo, 100kph*1.1 (110%) = 110kph. So on the 100kph mark put a 110 sticker on top. Very easy.
As for 1 turn on the rear. If he has a standard IRS beetle, it would have sagged and would have slight negative camber. part turns will get it back to
stock, but he wants it high. 1 outer turn on the rear of a standard height beetle is the perfect baja height. Trust me, I have done it many times on
various baja's and buggies and it's a good ball park adjustment for offroading. Setting them so half the spring plate cover bolt is covered
is also a good ballpark adjustment. But yes your right he may have to do somewhere in between depending on if the car has been reset in the past.
but is a little lacking in ground
clearance for some of the local "roads." 
