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Author: Subject: 1600 idle problems
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posted on October 7th, 2004 at 10:12 PM
1600 idle problems


Hi guys

Our newly rebuilt 1600tp has maintained some of the issues that it had before it had been recoed and I was wondering if anyone could point to a probable cause.

The engine has all new internals etc and had retained everything on top but we replaced the carb with a new one and put a 009 in. everything else on top is the old stuff.

So the problem:
the car still hovers dangerously close to stall (with the left idiot light on) when still a bit cold at lights and stuf. This is more pronounced if we've had to brake sharply before or if we've just come down a hill to a stop (either in gear or neutral).

I know this isn't massive but it's annoying in a virtually new engine. I was thinking maybe the fuel pump or the alternator, but hey what the hell do I know!

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posted on October 8th, 2004 at 03:27 AM


What carb eg pic 30-34,what dissy vacuum or 009,what exhaust std or headers with/without carb heating :o.Then let the theories flow :duh
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posted on October 8th, 2004 at 08:55 AM


pic 34 carb, non vacuum 009, extractors (don't know much about them) exhaust is bent up to right rear wheel housing then doubles back down through muffler and exits bottom right of the car if that helps, pod filter so no heating. This problem existed when it had the standard filter though.

sorry for the lack of info:blush
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posted on October 8th, 2004 at 09:09 AM


he meant do your exhaust headers have the return pipes to warm the intake manifold.

for starters i am suprised you can get a 009 to work with a 34pict i have heard from many people who have tried this and all say it left flat spots that couldnt be tuned out.

i suppose you have already adjusted your idle screw a little higher?

my 30 pict 2 carb would do annoying things like the car would stall if i coasted for a bit and tried to take off and then after putting a gasget kit in and needle and seat, cleaning up everything in thinners and then put it all back together. gave the car a good tune and its sweet.

do you know what condition the carb you have just got is in?

also how big is your pod filter and what sort of arrangement for induction from the pod filter do you have.

i tried this with a 3 inch pod and the elbow pipe we were going to fit wouldnt fit under the rear scoop of my baja kit so we ended up making up just a flange peice that went straight up about 12cms to the pod filter. this created way to much air intake and the car died if you put your foot down hard. (just an idea)

other than that there are more knolegeable people on this forum than i

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posted on October 8th, 2004 at 10:23 AM


This sounds the same as my new 1600 tp, the carb and the exhaust and the dizzy are all the same as your setup, so I will be watching this post with interest. However I am not driving mine at the moment so I have not investigated the problem. What I will be looking at is the carby sucking air at the manifold, Valve timing and points timing after that I dunno! Hope you fix yours (and mine)



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posted on October 8th, 2004 at 10:31 AM


I tend to agree with Anthiron, I've had similar problems in the past. Check you idle jets.



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posted on October 8th, 2004 at 12:15 PM


Oops. Don't know if I should have called the filter a 'pod' but it's a replacement that is circular stainless with a green filter element inside. I've seen them a fair bit on cars in the forum. It's probably about 2 inches high, right on top of the carby.

speaking of which the carby is brand spanking new. We used to think the old one was the problem (it was pretty worn) but apparently not.

Sorry for my lack of knowledge about the intake heating!
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posted on October 8th, 2004 at 12:23 PM


ok so the filter you are talking about isnt a pod filter so i doubt the problem is too much airflow.

i dont mean to make u sound stupid but have u adjusted the idle screw to a bit higher idle?
if you have a tacho the idle should be about 850rpm

oh and dont worry about not knowing things my first question on this forum was how to get the hubcaps off my superbug........im still embarresed. lol

try draining the float bowl on the carbie and catch the fuel. check for lots of muck in the fuel. unscrew the main jet and blow it out and then put it back in and do the same for the air jet.




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posted on October 8th, 2004 at 02:11 PM


has the fuel filter been changed? i know the style of filter you are using and it shouldnt be a problem unless it needs changing due to being full of crap. but the 34 pict 2 is a hit and miss carby you ether get a good one or one with a flat spot in it, but thats not the problem here im thinking more like a low idle or restriction in the fuel line maybe? possibly an air leak in the manifold, ether a crack, split boot or manifold mounting surface not flat?



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posted on October 8th, 2004 at 04:08 PM


It comes back to the fact that the problem is the same even though the engine has had so much changed. I have altered the idle screw in the past and had the same fluctuation in idle speeds. The carb is completely new and doesn't have any of the flat spot problems. I thought it may have been some of the old stuff (not that there's much left).

thanks again guys.
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posted on October 8th, 2004 at 04:48 PM


did you change the the manifold in the rebuild or is it the same one as before. you can check the manifold mounting plate for warping with a ruler.



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posted on October 9th, 2004 at 07:17 AM


Hey ruckus,put your hand on the intake manifold an inch or two below the carb after the engine has been started and idling for a few minutes,if its very very cold yuv got an icing problem.:o
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posted on October 9th, 2004 at 08:17 AM


You can fix this the easy way or the hard way...........

Easy way: Throw the 009 as far as you can. Get a SVDA (single vacuum dual advance) dizzy and fit. You love life will improve. You will smile lots. Your walk will have an extra step. You may even win lotto.

Hard Way: Google up SVDA vw or 009 pict3 and read aircooled net and Boston bobs pages. Essentially you make it run really rich and solder the vent in the throttle disc, and time it much much more advanced. You will swear more, you probably will not have much success in your love life, you will stoop and probably dissolve into tears easily.

Been there and tried all sorts and I reckon the SVDA is worth lots more than you will ever pay for it. If you put an ad in the buying selling forum you may get one. You dont need to buy the air cooled net one, any beetle one will do.


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posted on October 9th, 2004 at 03:03 PM


i still think that the distributer is not the problem as ive seen documentation to say that there is a problem with the 34 pict 2 carb from as far back as the initial release



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posted on October 9th, 2004 at 06:25 PM


its funny because i know a fella running a 34 pict on his 1776 manx with a 009 and no issues at all. but everyone else tells me it wont work.



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posted on October 10th, 2004 at 12:09 AM


im running a 34 pict on the sbug at the moment and its a pain in the arse because of the flat spot



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posted on October 10th, 2004 at 08:40 AM


hi rob

Is it only doing it cold ?

I had the flat spot the guys are talking about and when cold and choke was on it went like a gun but when warm it was a piece of shit of the bottom

Have been told to do the points static and plug the hole.

But if your is cold problem icing or choke

Hanks your man and pan is stripped now if you want to check it out

OH shit bathurst is on cya

[Edited on 9-10-2004 by beerdoc]




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posted on October 11th, 2004 at 05:12 PM


Hey ruckus,dont despair your not alone check this out http://www.vw-resource.com/hestate4.html  luck dude;)


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