| [ Total Views: 1116 | Total Replies: 16 | Thread Id: 35571 ] |
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 bussboy
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| posted on March 1st, 2005 at 11:15 PM |
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LOWERING A SPLITTY
Regarding Splitty suspension. These questions no doubt has been asked before.
What is the best Transmision and axle to fit to get IRS and who makes the best kit for this.
Which is the best front end to fit.
Thses may seem dumb questions but better than dumb mistakes.
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bigbaja
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| posted on March 2nd, 2005 at 12:23 AM |
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indian automotive in sydney do all split lowering kits
http://www.kruizinwagon.com.au
[size=4] Terry - Custom Off RoadComponents[/size]
28 Hayward Street, Stafford QLD 4053
Ph: (07) 3356 4356 - Fax: (07) 3356 6765 |
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57kombi
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on March 2nd, 2005 at 07:48 AM |
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You will get differant opinions from all members.
Heres Mine.
For the front stick with the king and link pin beam and fit dropped spindles, this way you get a 2 and a half inch drop but still have a factory ride,
nice and smooth,
If you fit a lowered bay beam the ride is harsher .
For the rear, I have fitted a straight axle(cheaper) but when I can afford it, I will be fitting an IRS from Creative Engineering.
The best trans is a super bug or S bug, better gearing for the IRS.
For more advice visit
http://www.ssvc.org.uk
they have loads of posts regarding this.
Cheers
Dave
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bussboy
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| posted on March 3rd, 2005 at 11:45 AM |
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Thanks Dave
At this stage I am trying to get as much info before starting this project. My van is 98% complete only missing stub axle and brakes on front. Would
like to lower and fit better ( More modern engine and Trans as well as look at brakes ) I also have a 1972 Kombi which is a parts vehicle ( Was led to
beleive front end would fit and possibly rear end with indian kit but again the wrong info)
Cheers Paul
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57kombi
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| posted on March 3rd, 2005 at 11:53 AM |
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Front end wont fit, for a start they are about an inch or so higher so if you fitted adjusters and wanted to lower it 2 and a half inches fro stock
split height it would mean lowering the beam 3 and a half inches, this tightens up the torsion bars and gives a firmer ride.
Most people do use ball joint beams from 68 bays as they are quite cheap and still have wide 5 bolt pattern for the wheels.
Parts of the 72 could be used for the IRS but it also has a small 5 bolt pattern and it all depends on what type of wheels you want to use.
Also visit
http://www.creative-engineering.com
and read what they have to say.
Cheers
Dave
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bussboy
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| posted on March 3rd, 2005 at 12:16 PM |
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Thanks Dave
Creative is currently unavailable. Indian have said there is not a lot I can use from the rear suspension so am unsure of what direction to go, that
is why I have posted this to get answers from those who have done it. As far as wheels go I want to use BRMS with whatever bolt pattern I end up with(
Small or large) . I want to build a vehicle which is safe and comfortable to drive every day.
Cheers Paul
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57kombi
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| posted on March 3rd, 2005 at 12:49 PM |
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Thats the way to do it.
As I have said I have looked into this for about 4 years and the best for me, is dropped spindles on the front standard beam, this way it is also easy
to return it to stock if you ever want to in the future.
The straight axle was a cheap and easy way that handles O.K. for me, I am not using it as a race car .
Cheers
Dave
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t2
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| posted on March 3rd, 2005 at 10:22 PM |
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i have a 68 beam in my 65 bus and it bolts straight in , i have adjusters in it and as dave says the tubes are further appart so you have to lower it
further down than a link pin beam, as for being a harsh ride i would disagree it feels nice to me and my adjusters are all the way down, but in saying
that it would be a shit load better with some drop spindles . i have bay discs on the front and i am waying up my potions on wether to put a link pin
beam back in with adjusters and dropped spindles and also cutting out 4 inches out of the beam and adding a set of wide discs. to me that would be a
great set up you could set it a the height you want and still have discs and the great looks of being tucked in
just my opinion
gravity wont get you high
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57kombi
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| posted on March 3rd, 2005 at 10:25 PM |
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Darren.
Im doing the same to my beam, just saving for the csp wide 5 discs.
I think the stopping is a bit more important than getting the IRS.
So it will be the front, rear, radars, safari's, finished
Cheers
Dave
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ClassicVW(pacific)
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| posted on March 3rd, 2005 at 11:30 PM |
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#! Message No Longer Available !#
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bussboy
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| posted on March 4th, 2005 at 08:59 AM |
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Thanks guys starting to get an idea of which direction to go. Roy if you could get those details to me that would be great.
Thanks Paul
P.S. Roy got your catologue still trying to absorb all the parts that are available thanks.
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Kombi_Rescue
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| posted on March 5th, 2005 at 04:50 PM |
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hi guys,there is another way..you can use much of the 72 bus rear suspension...the rear trailing arms can be modified which will incorperate the 72
rear hubs.the original split spring plates need to be modified .next step weld in new torsion tube brackets and new upper shock mounts..there you
have it irs the original bus style.as the factory built in brazil .depending on engine selection all t1/3 gearboxes will work fine,the front nose
cone needs to be swapped or you can fit an adapter plate between the two .This is by far the best and most reliable way to make your ride safe..I have
fitted many and offer a kit for diy all you need is a good mig and common sense. king and link front end does offer a softer ride but the brakes are
crap,again go the ball joint and make it safe with better braking you can also use the master cylinder from the 72 with slight mods,good luck in
selecting from all the options |
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57kombi
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| posted on March 5th, 2005 at 04:56 PM |
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I agree the original king and link pin brakes are crap .
Thats why you fit the CSP wide 5 disc kit.
Best of both worlds.
Cheers
Dave
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splitbusaustralia
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| posted on March 5th, 2005 at 06:15 PM |
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Well,
having had a coupla slight run-ins with local kit manufacturers I've tended not to get into the lowering
thing lately - I don't particularly want to effect anyone's livelihood...
However, the creative kit is the one I use if IRS'ing.
It's cheap compared to local kits and all the rear end stuff
from any 1600 post 67 kombi bolts straight in - factory
geometry - no modified control arms pivoting on tighter
angles..(the more stock bits the happier certifying engineers
also tend to be....).
You do have to change the upper shock mounting points and
its not as easy to put it back to stock - but I haven't seen anyone convert
an IRS conversion back to stock so far. (Note I wouldn't personally IRS a rarer bus as seems to be all the rage
in the UK at the moment....)
I can take some pics of the Creative stuff fitted if anyone wants em.
I hate bay beams lowered 5-6 inches on adjusters. They really
suck in terms of ride and anyone who says they're OK probably thinks so cos
they've never driven the dropped spindle alternative (my opinion again). IF you up the power or drive like a maniac I agree you have to look at the
brakes on a stock splitbus.
People tend to forget that drums will probably stop you as
well as (or better than) discs on the first hard stop - more
surface area of drum and shoe. They fade much faster
with repeated hard braking as they overheat faster....
in good condition they're not
actually unsafe with stock power and sensible driving (although
the single circuit does leave a bit to be desired).
???????????????????????
regards
RobK
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twoguns
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| posted on March 5th, 2005 at 06:23 PM |
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heres one. shane had irs, but converted back to straght axle conversion via a CBB kit. front has adjusters and drop spindles.
my ute is straght axle conversion, with narrowed later beam, adjsuters and drop spindles. will post pics soon.
Simply Cruzin'...
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on March 5th, 2005 at 10:01 PM |
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Let down the tyres when it's parked, cheap and legal 
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Kombi_Rescue
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| posted on March 6th, 2005 at 09:03 AM |
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g'day rob ,you are right that the stock drums are not unsafe in a stock aplication,but on the other hand most splits are modified to be driven a
little harder than was intended in the 60's thats why the factory went to discs as the TUV regulations insisted as the engine sizes increased and
carrying capacities as did the the speed people drive ...having owned and driven with both brakes I must state that the preformance of disc out way
drums.Rob when you get a minute have a look at the set up I have made ,it took me a lot of years to perfect a simple IRS conversion as the set up is
critical in as much as ride and more important handling which also affects the braking. Having sourced a Brazilian rear end, the factory used as much
existing tooling to produce a irs with factory frame horns in place, by the way the angles on the pivot are stock ,and the most important point of all
...everything is sourced and built in australia which in turn helps our vw economy right here. the best of both worlds is a brazilian front axle which
is discs on king and link I have one and it will be the best ride/brake combo . can anyone source the later stubs ? all the split beams will remain
and the early bays may last a little longer in the back padocks cheers stephen muller |
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