| [ Total Views: 688 | Total Replies: 10 | Thread Id: 36908 ] |
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 RISKY^VW
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| posted on March 29th, 2005 at 08:29 PM |
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cylinder honing?
hi gang just got me ebay cly hone today 
just wanted to know a few tips
nice and slow?
any cutting fluid??
got no idea as i have never down it before
cheers
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pod
A.k.a.: paul mrvw061
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| posted on March 29th, 2005 at 08:34 PM |
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plenty of cutting fluid ,i use kero
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Chewy
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| posted on March 29th, 2005 at 08:56 PM |
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Did you get a bottle brush hone?
are you installing a new piston and/or rings?
There is little point in honing the cylinders if you are using older P+Rs
.
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vwking
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 posted on March 30th, 2005 at 01:19 AM |
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i find kero is the best
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 vw54
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| posted on March 30th, 2005 at 10:23 AM |
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yes lots of fluid, as said kero is best, and move the hone up and down dont keep it stationary or the cylinder will develope a wear area.
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RISKY^VW
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| posted on March 30th, 2005 at 07:28 PM |
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yeah im putting in new rings and doing some head work
not splitting the case
thanks peeps
[Edited on 30/3/2005 by RISKY^VW]
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toplessbug
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| posted on March 30th, 2005 at 09:53 PM |
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up n down fast, round n round slow, plenty of kero use a variable speed drill as slow as possible aim for a 45* crosshatch thats close enough thats
assuming its a 3 leg hone and not a dunny brush |
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koolkarmakombi
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| posted on March 31st, 2005 at 04:29 PM |
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google search it :thumb
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't
quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons,
living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer
upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this
disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
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koolkarmakombi
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| posted on March 31st, 2005 at 04:37 PM |
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http://www.pollymodelengineering.co.uk/pollyModelEngineering/technicalNotes/c...
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't
quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons,
living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer
upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this
disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
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toplessbug
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| posted on March 31st, 2005 at 07:30 PM |
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one thing i forgot to add when you finish making a mess (and you will) take the cyls into the laundry and wash them with hot soapy water and then get
a clean white rag with light oil and wipe the bores . the cyls are only clean when your rag dont get black any more. see you in a week. |
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tassupervee
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| posted on March 31st, 2005 at 08:40 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Chewy
are you installing a new piston and/or rings?
There is little point in honing the cylinders if you are using older P+Rs
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Err what?
Quite the opposite actually
A few points on cylinder honing:
Just use your hone JUST enough to "break the glaze" Aim to remove the barest minimum of metal. Dont blithely grind away in an attempt to remove each
and every scratch.
The more you remove, the more rooted you engine is!
As stated before, aim to achieve a 45 degree crosshatch.
Never let the hone stop moving up and down while it is turning.
Keep the up and down movements smooth and constant. Dont slow down near the top or the bottom of the "stroke" Excessive removal of metal from the
top and bottom of the bore results.
Dont use your hone to remove any lips from the top of the bore. Use a cylinder ridge remover for this.
Do NOT allow the stones to protrude out the top or the bottom of the bores. This results in excessive removal of metal as stated above and a convex
shaped cylinder wall and damages the stones.
Use plenty of lubricant. Kero is ok. Ensure the hone does not "chatter" or buzz whilst turning. if it does, try another lubricant or alter the
tension of the expander spring
Dont drag the hone up out of the bore when you are done resulting in verticle scratches. Stop the drill and collapse the stones by hand before
removing it.
Clamp the cylinder up LIGHTLY in the vise to prevent distortion. Just tight enough to hold it steady.
Wash it thoroughly in soap and water and then dry it and coat it thoroughly with oil to prevent rusting.
Importantly, get and old cylinder and PRACTICE with it!
More damage has been done to cylinder bores by incorrect use of hones than has been fixed by many home engine fettlers.
Happy honing!!
l8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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