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 FATBUG
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| posted on April 10th, 2005 at 05:55 PM |
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Body work questions
Hi,
Just have a couple of questions.
1. When i bought the car it had 2 cracks near the rear window on either side so i got a screwdriver and picked it off thinking it may be a thick layer
of paint but on the passanger side it was about 5mm of bog with the metal underneath with some rivets in it and was abit rippley etc.
Same goes on the drivers side but not as thick. only about 2mm thick of bog with rivets in the metal underneath. But it seems to get thicker on bother
sides near the bottom but thins out going towards the roof. (See pics below to see what i mean)
Im assuming beetles dont come like this and it has been ran up the bum and had some repairs done. so im going to have to fill the big hole and hope i
can get the same finish.
2. I have tried Paint stripper on some of the panels it seems to work ok but is it necissary to strip it back that far as it will be a big job on the
roof etc. But when i use the (rectangle) vibrating sander it doesnt sand a big area as most of the panels are rounded etc. But when i do it by hand i
can barely get through the first layer of paint and i cant imagine doing the whole car likes this.
How far back do i need to strip the paint to respray it in primer and paint?
Cheers,
Scott
[Edited on 10-4-2005 by FATBUG]
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 helbus
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| posted on April 10th, 2005 at 06:14 PM |
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First of all have a look through some of the posts in the Paint & Body section which have subjects related to what you are asking. The search
function will help you with this. You will find these same questions have been asked over and over again.
To put it simply.
If you want it done right, strip it to bare metal.
If you want to stop the rust, cut it out and weld in new metal
If it is taking too long, welcome to the world of restoration.
If you have the money, pay someone else to spend hundreds of hours doing it.
You will enjoy every minute of it. 
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LOWBUG
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| posted on April 10th, 2005 at 07:21 PM |
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Typical for a super bug, while those vents are there its going to keep on rusting
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FATBUG
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| posted on April 12th, 2005 at 12:03 PM |
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Well after stripping one panel and then sanding another to see which one is easiest i think i will just strip it right back.
The back gaurds are the worse cause they are full of bog (widened gaurds) so it needs to be bogged again in alot of spots.
As for those large bog bits around the back window which seems to be from an accident i will get them done properlly. not confident enough to get the
right shape myself. Hehe..
Just another quick question.
I have emailed a large paint supplier in Sydney (VG AUTO PAINTS) and they told me not to use a gloss coat if i want a matt finish.
But if i do want a matt finish wont it turn to shit after a few months in the sun and rain with no protection?
Cant i get like a Non gloss coat or just a semi gloss.
I have done some searches but not really found the right answers for the work im doing.
Cheers,
Scott
[Edited on 12-4-2005 by FATBUG]
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Doug Sweetman
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| posted on April 12th, 2005 at 01:07 PM |
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Trust us, its not from an accident. L bugs came from the factory with rust I think..... at least mine did.
Where the fresh air vents are behind the rear windows usually leaks, this lets water in between the two skins, where some sound deadening foam which
they thoughtfully located there soaks it up and holds it in just the right conditions for rust.
Its about the most common place for super beetles to rust, and there are some shocking repairs around out there too. Mine had a piece of flat plate
arc welded in place (tacked really) and then about 20mm of bog over that.
The rust can also continue down to the corner of the luggage area too.
See the attached photo for the repairs we had to make to mine.
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Doug Sweetman
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| posted on April 12th, 2005 at 01:07 PM |
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And on the inside too
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FATBUG
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| posted on April 12th, 2005 at 03:21 PM |
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Thanks for the help.
It doesnt look like rust.
The panel under it is just all rippled with rivets like it has had a nice whack and they have repaired it best they can before bogging it.
But i guess your right about the rust.
Thanks for the pics so i could see what you mean.
Cheers,
Scott
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Doug Sweetman
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| posted on April 12th, 2005 at 04:56 PM |
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No probs, maybe it was an accident ? is there much rust around the rest of the car ?
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helbus
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| posted on April 12th, 2005 at 05:10 PM |
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Just get the paint made in acylic and get the paint supplier to add some flattening base to make it a satin. This will not affect the durability of
the paint if it is topcoat.
If it is basecoat, then you have to put clear over it and that makes it shiny.
Acrylic solid colours can be made satin quite easily.
Metallic colours need clear on them. C.O.B (clear over base)
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FATBUG
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| posted on April 12th, 2005 at 09:01 PM |
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Isnt satin shiny?
So if they put a flattening base in it, it will last longer.
Sorry but you have totally lost me :P
I just thought there would be a sealer of some sort. But when you said flattening base to make it satin?
Does this protect it?
Sorry for my stupidness but we all start somewhere. heehe
Cheers
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malcolm
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| posted on April 12th, 2005 at 10:35 PM |
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I think SprayChiefs in Adelaide allready has it mixed I by my paint from them and I live in vic.
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on April 13th, 2005 at 09:08 AM |
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Satin is flattened but if you look from the side it still has a shine.
You sorta go in this order
Gloss > Satin > Matt with all variaces in between
Peter
| Quote: | Originally
posted by FATBUG
Isnt satin shiny?
So if they put a flattening base in it, it will last longer.
Sorry but you have totally lost me :P
I just thought there would be a sealer of some sort. But when you said flattening base to make it satin?
Does this protect it?
Sorry for my stupidness but we all start somewhere. heehe
Cheers
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FATBUG
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| posted on April 13th, 2005 at 09:16 AM |
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So if i go that matt black how do i protect it that was my question?
Cause i have heard if its not protected it wont last long as it has no coat ontop of it?
Cheers,
Scott
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on April 13th, 2005 at 03:06 PM |
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If it is top coat black with no more than 20% flattening agent it does not need to be sealed. Got It? That will be a fairly flat finish
As you add more flattening agent the paint loses other qualities, because it is becoming less like paint. So if you imagine it slowly loses more of
its elasticity, UV protection, porosity resistance etc. It does not just go "BANG" at 20% and stop being useful, it just gets less like topcoat
paint.
Speak to the people you are getting to mix the paint and they will be able to show you what percentages of flattening base brings it flatter. A truly
'matt' finish may require 40% flattening agent, which doesnt leave a lot of the original paint product. If you seal it with clear you will have a
gloss finish again.
You can put flattening agent in clear, but it has the same qualities as topcoat so all of what has been said earlier still applies.
Surely this must help?
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FATBUG
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| posted on April 13th, 2005 at 03:35 PM |
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Thanks for clearing it up.
Just need to explain things better in your first post for the novice :P
Thanks again,
Cheers
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