| [ Total Views: 399 | Total Replies: 8 | Thread Id: 40197 ] |
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 matara
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| posted on June 6th, 2005 at 12:29 PM |
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Replacing Axle Boots on a splitty?
Well first my rear brake cylinders started leaking, replaced them, but whilst the car was up on jacks I think the negative camber has cracked the
Axle Boots.
Any idea how hard it is to change them on a 65 splitty with standard box and reductions. Can they be done without a hoist?
Cheers
Steve
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nicko
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| posted on June 6th, 2005 at 01:06 PM |
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I asume they would be the same as a beetle. Best done with the weight of the car still on the wheels so that the axle angle to gearbox is straight.
Cut off the olgs boots with a stanley knife taking care not to scratch the metal underneath, clean up and fit new boots. I belive the trick is not to
tighten the clamps or screws until you have everything in place and then tighten them up.
Nicko
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VolksFolks
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| posted on June 6th, 2005 at 01:40 PM |
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Is real tricky with the motor in, i think it would be quicker and easyer to pull the motor and then refit the boots, the screws are spose to go at the
top!, this way you are sure of good clean fit, my 2c worth
Andy
They laugh because You are different, You laugh because They are all the same.
check out http://www.lowlight.com.au for low lights only.. |
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bigbaja
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| posted on June 6th, 2005 at 11:00 PM |
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make sure to take a pillow with you cause you,ll get a sore neck other wise
hehehehehehehehehehehe
anyway
juck the rear up and put stands under the the axles to give a little room under there and to take the weight off the boots
just as easy to take to the vw shop
less messy too
[size=4] Terry - Custom Off RoadComponents[/size]
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Desert Bug
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| posted on June 7th, 2005 at 12:41 AM |
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G'day Steve,
as Nicko said, same as swing axle Beetle but run it up on some ramps to keep the load on and the axles basicaly horizontal.
Sorry Andy I disagree, no need to pull the motor and the screws in the seam don't go at the top they go just higher than half way up and I always put
the seam at the rear as this puts the least amount of stress on it. When fitting the clamps position the block with the screw in it at the seam so
when it being tightened it pulls the seam together.
Cheers, Ian.
Excentric (wife says) VW nut, having owned 250+ VWs in 40 years.
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VolksFolks
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| posted on June 7th, 2005 at 11:38 AM |
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Thats ok Ian, i just found the 20 mins moving the motor out and 20 mins replacing was worth the trouble, each to there own eh! also no stiff neck!
haha
Andy
They laugh because You are different, You laugh because They are all the same.
check out http://www.lowlight.com.au for low lights only.. |
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57kombi
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| posted on June 7th, 2005 at 12:47 PM |
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I think you will find that the seam/ joint, should be horizontal as that way the seam doesnt open when it is moving.
All the books I have seen say that is how they should go on.
Cheers
Dave
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Desert Bug
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| posted on June 7th, 2005 at 11:10 PM |
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Hey Andy,
Mate I like nothing more than sitting in the engine bay of a Splitty just marveling at all that '30s-'40s Engineering and ingenuity (transaxle and
suspension particuarly), it's great stress therapy.
Cheers, Ian.
Excentric (wife says) VW nut, having owned 250+ VWs in 40 years.
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matara
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| posted on June 7th, 2005 at 11:36 PM |
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For the sake of convenience I am thinking of leaving it into to a V-dub mechanic I know that has a hoist. Being 6ft 5in I dont enjoy crawling under
the splitty and getting that oil spattered face look anymore.
Cheers
Steve
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