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Author: Subject: 32/36 DFAV - weber progressive....
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posted on July 31st, 2005 at 03:24 PM
32/36 DFAV - weber progressive....


this is a progressive weber.. i have it here with all the manifolds and what not.. any way to tell what sort of HP i can expect running it on a 1600TW with a stock exhaust with a zoom tube?

and if i set it up say next week.. using the stock exhaust get it running niceley.. if i get extractors in a few months.. will the extractors alter the carbs performance so dramatically that the car wont drive?




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posted on July 31st, 2005 at 03:53 PM


it shouldnt make that much difference, but it most likely have to ether be rejeted or retuned depending on how much difference it makes



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posted on July 31st, 2005 at 04:03 PM


after the exhaust was done i would be getting oit dynotuned which brings me to my next question.. are the progressive webers easily tuned? or are they a pain to get at? i knoq SFA about carbs btw :)



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yes.gif posted on July 31st, 2005 at 04:13 PM


No, the exhaust will make very little difference to the running of the engine....
It may be down a few Horse power with the standard exhaust than with the extractors....
If the Carby needs rejetting they will have to be pulled apart and rejetted.... which is a real pain... and takes time
Hopefully somone already has it jetted correctly....
if anything, if will probably be running rich....
which doesn't hurt the engine.....
only Your Pocket with extra fuel....

I don't know much about weber carburetors but You still have a single port engine.... I think??

My Son had to cut holes in the sides of the engine bay to access His twin Webers on an 1835cc engine in a 1956 body.... on a 1968 semi auto chassis....

Lee Noonan 68autobugnn[ Edited on 31-7-2005 by 68AutoBug ]




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posted on July 31st, 2005 at 04:14 PM


it depends on the version you have. there is one version that is a real bitch to tune cause of the adjustment screws is up against the fan housing. but there ithe newer ones that have the screws at the front this is also the one that has the electronic choke



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posted on July 31st, 2005 at 04:16 PM


hey lee this is a single carb set up



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posted on July 31st, 2005 at 04:18 PM


lee is your sons one the green oval that was on ebay a while back?

my engine is a twin wort - im running the single weber cos i can't be bothered moving the vacume gear out of the engine bay.. and can't afford duals:) it is jetted for a 1776 - but i'v been told it may be alright with the mixtures turned down?




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posted on July 31st, 2005 at 04:30 PM


yeah it should work well actually i had a similar set up on my 1700 big bore. barry(bizzare) has actually had a lot of experience with them as well



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posted on July 31st, 2005 at 07:13 PM


If it's set up for a 1776 I would think it needs re-jetting. I got mine and it was being used on a 1641 beforehand. No worries right? Wrong - it was way way out. By all means whack it on, but don't expect much out of it. Oh and make sure you have some way of heating the manifold as it will ice up big time if you don't.

I'm not speaking from reading books or from other people telling me stuff, these are just the experiences I have had with putting a centremount Weber on my 1600TP.

A final note, it's very hard to tune well without a dyno - found this out yesterday when I took mine for a dyno run. I won't tell you the result as it's laughable.




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posted on July 31st, 2005 at 09:02 PM


If you know SFA about carbs and are willing to learn then the prog is a good carb tolearn on. Single carb, cheap to jet, well made.

Now - not a whole lotta difference over stock, except they are a better built carb.

What sort of manifold do you have for the Prog?? Does it have heat risers??
Living in Melb i would stick to a stock exhaust. They feed the heat risers properly. Extractors the take off point are at the same pressure level and only pulse back and forth. A stock exhaust flows right to left.
I live in Sydney and never had heat risers and never had icing. But Sydney is a lot milder in Winter than Melb.
As for jetting - try and work on the primaries first. Look at where/when the secondaries cut in. Try and limit your throttle travel so as i doesnt cut in. Drive it on the primaries and get them right first. Then just add 5 to the secondary idle and main and take 5 off the airs.
Yes - the mixture screw is at the back on Webers and is a bitch. I use to use a washer and feed it round between my fingers. You should only have to set this for the primary idle once.
The other bitch is the mains are in the bowl - you have to pull the top off to access them.




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yes.gif posted on July 31st, 2005 at 10:39 PM


I thought You were talking twin carbs at one stage.
My Son's 56 oval has never been registered since 1985.
He painted it white with pearl over that.. Only been driven from one house to another when He moved...
Has twin Webers that must be jetted too big for the 1835
engine... Its in His shed...

Did You change the heads on Your 1500 engine Damien?
I changed heads but kept them single port...
I have a pair of kadrons I may use one day... on single port manifolds....

Best of Luck Damien...

Lee




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posted on August 2nd, 2005 at 05:42 PM


my carbe and the manifolds can be seen here...

http://www.aussieveedubbers.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=40242&page=1 

i bought them off gorn in Perth..

my engine was twin port when i bought it a few years back :)




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posted on August 2nd, 2005 at 05:47 PM


looks like one of the newer ones mate cause the adjustment screws are at the front and its got the electronic choke. have fun mate the difference is astounding from stock carbs. but you will notice a difference in fuel consumpition



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posted on August 2nd, 2005 at 05:58 PM


i have noticed a change for the good after taking my wood slat rack off :( but it looks so coooooool :'(



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