Board Logo
Go To Bottom

Printable Version  
[ Total Views: 579 | Total Replies: 6 | Thread Id: 48381 ]
Author: Subject:  Separating heat exchangers from heads?
MemberPurple Martin
A.k.a.: Martin
Fahrvergnugen
****


Avatar


Posts: 913
Threads: 141
Registered: February 13th, 2003
Member Is Offline

Location: Canberra
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: warm & fuzzy

question.gif posted on January 27th, 2006 at 04:56 PM
Separating heat exchangers from heads?


I'm tearing down my kombi's 2L Type IV motor. The heat exchangers seem to be stuck to the heads, I've taken off all the nuts and I can't get them apart. Is there a trick to this?



1959 red & white Beetle
1975 Kombi camper
MemberGeneral_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
*****


Avatar


Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline

Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!

posted on January 28th, 2006 at 11:33 AM



Wiggle. WiggleWiggleWiggleWiggleWiggle. Swear. WigglewiggleWiggle-Wiggle-Wiggle... Wiggle ......Wiggle. Take a break. Repeat.

The type IV heat exchanges can get very stuck. It is also common for their attaching studs to be slightly misaligned due to whatever reason, which makes them a pain to get off and near impossible to get back on. Some people seem to use some kind of loctite or something that makes the job even worse.

Because of the way they are, once they are unjammed you have to keep them as aligned as possible and do mini-wiggles if you have to because the heat exchanges tend to bind on the stud threads. Then at a certain point they'll try to drop off. Keep them straight! Because they'll try to put a lot of bending force on one stud. Stupid things.

I have to take mine off again. I forgot the O gasket things.




If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
MemberPurple Martin
A.k.a.: Martin
Fahrvergnugen
****


Avatar


Posts: 913
Threads: 141
Registered: February 13th, 2003
Member Is Offline

Location: Canberra
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: warm & fuzzy

posted on January 30th, 2006 at 08:21 AM



Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately they are rock solid, there is no "wiggle" at all. Maybe there is gasket goo or something in there. So I have to figure out a way to somehow get them unstuck before I can wiggle them off.



1959 red & white Beetle
1975 Kombi camper
Memberoval TOFU
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Bitte, ein Bit!
******


Avatar


Posts: 2946
Threads: 234
Registered: July 10th, 2003
Member Is Offline

Location: Pt Cookie, Melburg
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Grey
Mood: :booM

posted on January 30th, 2006 at 09:40 AM



does it look like it has 'rust welded' itself to the head? otherwise, spray degreaser on the gaskets, let it soak and try wiggling it again... good luck



...and Robert's ya father's brother...
Member76camper
Fahrvergnugen
****


Avatar


Posts: 884
Threads: 89
Registered: January 13th, 2005
Member Is Offline

Location: sydney, northern beaches
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: happy :-)

posted on January 30th, 2006 at 09:04 PM



take your time, You dont want to have to end up helicoiling your exhaust studs. You will find there at pretty bad angles and may be holding onto the exchangers... Make sure a wiggle is just a wiggle not big push and pull.

good luck.




MemberPurple Martin
A.k.a.: Martin
Fahrvergnugen
****


Avatar


Posts: 913
Threads: 141
Registered: February 13th, 2003
Member Is Offline

Location: Canberra
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: warm & fuzzy

posted on February 1st, 2006 at 09:25 AM



I did it!

I've found an easy way to get them off, even when they are rusted to the heads:

Have the motor the right way up, so that the head exhaust studs are pointing straight down, becuase gravity will help the heat exchangers to drop off the studs.
Put one hand under the body of the heat exchanger to catch it when it drops off: you don't want to damage it by dropping it on a concrete floor, and you don't want to break a toe. Be careful because it is heavy.
With the other hand, use a hammer to tap on the big flange where the heat exchanger bolts to the muffler pipes. This flange is thick enough that you can tap it without damaging it. Tap it downwards at first, until the rearwards exhaust manifold just comes away from the head: you have now broken the rust seal on this manifold. Now tap it upwards until the forwards exhaust manifold comes away: you have now broken the rust seal on both manifolds, so if the studs are straight the heat exchanger will drop straight off. If the studs are not straight and are still holding it on, tap that same flange some more, gently, and alternating between downwards taps and upwards taps. This will wiggle the whole thing off the studs. You don't need to pull it down at all, gravity will do the work for you.

You will find that you can get both off in as little time as it took you to read this post!


http://users.cyberone.com.au/mbudden/kombi/rebuild/heatexchanger.jpg

[ Edited on 1-2-06 by Purple Martin ]




1959 red & white Beetle
1975 Kombi camper
Super Administratorhelbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
Super Administrator
Mad fabricator, paint and body
*********

Rank Avatar

Avatar


Posts: 7386
Threads: 312
Registered: September 1st, 2002
Member Is Offline

Location: In the garage chopping cars into bits
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: In the thinking chair

posted on February 1st, 2006 at 01:20 PM



Legendary :) :thumb





  Go To Top


Powered by GaiaBB, © 2011 The GaiaBB Group
(C) 2001-2025 Aussieveedubbers

[ Queries: 40 ] [ PHP: 3.4% - SQL: 96.6% ]