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Author: Subject:  Stirring rather than changing
MemberJazzyG
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sad.gif posted on April 25th, 2006 at 12:22 AM
Stirring rather than changing


Ok, so I've ventured into the world of the VW (Cheers Liam:)) in the form of a little blue 68 Notch which is pretty cool, but I'm having a few issues. Mostly the car feels pretty good, but the gear changes are like stirring a big bowl of porridge. What could be causing this? Is there a linkage kit that might fix the problem? Or is it something more sinister/expensive? I'm also having issues getting the horn to work (although this may be a problem with my inability to follow a wiring loom :o) Finally, the suspension is a bit bit bouncy (read, very) and I reckon I need new shocks, at least in the rear (one side is sitting lower than tuther, taht would be a dodgy shock, right?) What do people recommend for replacements? And what's an average cost for them?

Sorry for all the questions, but you know what it's like when you're a newbie :smilegrin:

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posted on April 25th, 2006 at 08:08 AM



the monroe gt gas shocks work really in the back of a vw in my opinion. also check the linkage bushes for wear because thats what it sounds like to me



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posted on April 25th, 2006 at 09:43 AM



At the top of Tech Help there is a "tech resources" manual posted.

Go there and look for
1) Shift rod bushing - ths supports the shift rod near the gear stick
2) rear coupling - joins the shift rod to the gear box

Total value is ..... say $25.00

When you change the rear coupling you are probabally better off keeping the original housing and just replacing the worn out rubber blocks with new urethene ones.

Add a short shift kit for a couple of more $$$ and it will be one of the best bang for buck improvements you can ever do




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posted on April 25th, 2006 at 10:25 AM



If one side is lower than the other at the back it is most likelyone torsion bar sagging more than the other.... usually not big deal, you can remove and rotate them to obtain the ride height you are after
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posted on April 25th, 2006 at 01:06 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Doug Sweetman
If one side is lower than the other at the back it is most likelyone torsion bar sagging more than the other.... usually not big deal, you can remove and rotate them to obtain the ride height you are after


Check out my post for instructions on how to do it...

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=19010&page=5 

It may be a little different to a T3, but not by much I'll presume.. good luck




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posted on April 25th, 2006 at 08:30 PM



Cheers guys, I'll be on the dog and bone tomorrow to source the bushings/coupling. I also need front brake hoses, what sort of money is reasonable for those?

Had a little incident this morning whilst taking the wheels off. All the wheel nuts were extremely and I mean extremely tight, to the point that I snapped the head of my wheel brace :mad:. Consequently what's the best way to loosen the wheel nuts without breaking another wheel brace? (two wheels are still on the vehicle btw wheel brace broken by this stage, lucky I wasn't stuck in the middle of nowhere!)

Thanks again for the advice, it's very much appreciated:)
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posted on April 25th, 2006 at 11:07 PM



might have to try some WD40.. carefull not to contaminate your disc brake rotor though (if you got em) otherwise, try a hard bang with a large hammer (that sounds rude) to 'break the seal' soemtimes it works..



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posted on April 26th, 2006 at 10:48 AM



Rattle gun them off, neversieze them and put them on with your wheelbrace.

I have bought batches of all that stuff from Mick Motors with good success. No affils etc

Put the quickshift in too. Change the gearbox oil for synthetic and put half a tube of nulon gearbox treatment in the box. You will be in heaven!


Quote:
Originally posted by JazzyG
Cheers guys, I'll be on the dog and bone tomorrow to source the bushings/coupling. I also need front brake hoses, what sort of money is reasonable for those?

Had a little incident this morning whilst taking the wheels off. All the wheel nuts were extremely and I mean extremely tight, to the point that I snapped the head of my wheel brace :mad:. Consequently what's the best way to loosen the wheel nuts without breaking another wheel brace? (two wheels are still on the vehicle btw wheel brace broken by this stage, lucky I wasn't stuck in the middle of nowhere!)

Thanks again for the advice, it's very much appreciated:)




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posted on April 26th, 2006 at 10:51 AM



You need a big 17 mm allen key for the plug. I bought the socket from suercheap when I bought the oils



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posted on April 26th, 2006 at 09:02 PM



Thanks again folks.

Did a little ring around today looking for brake hoses. So after 4 calls, 3 in Canberra and 1 in Sydney, I got a spread of prices ranging from $20 (Classic VeeDub) and $45 bucks at the (Canberra VW Centre). In their defence, the Canberra VW Centre did say "they're the good German ones ....." but are they $25 better? Don't get me wrong, I'm keen on safety, but if the $20 buckers will do the job................... So, where is the best place to source parts?
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posted on April 27th, 2006 at 09:06 AM



I had my brake hoses made by ABS, don't know if you have them in Canberra. Try your local brake specialist, they may be able to make them up for you. Mine cost $30 each.



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posted on April 27th, 2006 at 09:35 PM



I decided to go with "the good german" ones ... they just better be gooduns!


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