| [ Total Views: 774 | Total Replies: 20 | Thread Id: 51404 ] |
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 urban_myth
A.k.a.: Jason
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| posted on April 26th, 2006 at 12:58 AM |
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Replacing rear main seal
Whats the proper way to put a new rear main seal in? I've already stuffed one up. Its a 1600 twin port. Is there any trick to it?
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hellbugged
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| posted on April 26th, 2006 at 07:24 AM |
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use a tool to pull em in with the gland nut.
tool is like a super oversized washer, under the nut whala!
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 vw54
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| posted on April 26th, 2006 at 07:29 AM |
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use the instalation tool to make it sit in correct
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bond
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| posted on April 26th, 2006 at 08:31 AM |
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i have always just used a rubber mallet....
with much caution obviously
nick
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urban_myth
A.k.a.: Jason
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| posted on April 26th, 2006 at 09:41 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vw54
use the instalation tool to make it sit in correct
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Where do you buy this tool?
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vw54
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| posted on April 26th, 2006 at 09:43 AM |
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I bought mine from Gene Berg bout 25 years ago, you can try Vintage 9789-1777 they may have in stock
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Euro_67
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| posted on April 26th, 2006 at 05:47 PM |
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Go Dave!
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Joel
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| posted on April 26th, 2006 at 07:46 PM |
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i've always just used a large flat piece of wood to tap in it evenly
never had any probs
just chamfer the case edge with a stanley to remove any burs that might stuff the new seal and put a bead of sealant around the seals outer edge
tap in gently & bobs ur aunty
make sure to get ur endfloat right before hand too
Joel
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on April 26th, 2006 at 08:28 PM |
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Wynns Stop leak !!
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urban_myth
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| posted on April 26th, 2006 at 11:38 PM |
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Hitting it with a flat piece of wood would get it flush with the case, but how do you push it in past this point? I can get it flush with the case
easy enough. I have also been putting it in dry. Are you meant to use any sort of lube or anything?
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Joel
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| posted on April 26th, 2006 at 11:43 PM |
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it shouldnt be in any further its meant to be flush with the case flange other wise it wont seal on the flywheel properly
Joel
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1500S
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| posted on April 27th, 2006 at 06:08 AM |
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For those with access to a lathe, this is what the insertion tool looks like.
DH
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bond
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| posted on April 27th, 2006 at 10:04 AM |
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"insertion tool"......
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on April 27th, 2006 at 10:46 AM |
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I aways use some lubricant/gasket cement or even a fine film of silastic around the seal....
Knock it in flush with a wide thick flat piece of wood or a large socket... I usually use a large socket, but My Son had a couple of special tools
made... the seal needs to go in just below flush or the flywheel can contact the seal...
also put a couple of drops of oil in between the two seal lips in the centre and run the oil around the lips with Your finger..
this stops the oil seal from wearing prematurely because its not lubricated.... an old mechanics trick...
best of luck
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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urban_myth
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| posted on April 27th, 2006 at 01:07 PM |
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Thanks for the tips guys, got it in. What happens if I dont check the endfloat and just bolt up the flywheel?
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1500S
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| posted on April 27th, 2006 at 08:38 PM |
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You should read your manual once more or get someone else to build your motor!
DH
PS. > "insertion tool"......< What do you mean Bond? We can use the term insert or install the seal in the crankcase if that is what is
puzzling.
[ Edited on 27/4/2006 by 1500S ]
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on April 27th, 2006 at 08:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by urban_myth
Thanks for the tips guys, got it in. What happens if I dont check the endfloat and just bolt up the flywheel?
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End float should stay the same if you are using the same flywheel and you have not removed or added any shims...............................if you
have changed something then.....................well expect the motor to "lock up" at some stage :P
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 Bizarre
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| posted on April 27th, 2006 at 09:09 PM |
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Push and pull once your finished.
You should hear it - not feel or see it (movement)
Your rockers move .006" so you get the idea
Futue te ipsum!!!
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urban_myth
A.k.a.: Jason
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| posted on April 27th, 2006 at 11:51 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig Torrens
| Quote: | Originally
posted by urban_myth
Thanks for the tips guys, got it in. What happens if I dont check the endfloat and just bolt up the flywheel?
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End float should stay the same if you are using the same flywheel and you have not removed or added any shims...............................if you
have changed something then.....................well expect the motor to "lock up" at some stage :P
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Well, I havent changed anything, the motor hasnt been rebuilt, I just pulled the flywheel off to change the rear main seal.
[ Edited on 27-4-2006 by urban_myth ]
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1500S
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| posted on April 28th, 2006 at 06:12 AM |
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In that case, just put it back together. Wasn't clear if it was a re-build or replace. If you can, it's still a good idea to check endfloat on a
used engine as it can also pick up a loose No. 1 bearing in its housing.
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vw54
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| posted on April 28th, 2006 at 07:16 AM |
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B 4 you put the seal and flywheel back on CHECK to see if the rear bearing is moving in the case as this is a common cause of oil leaking and no
matter how many new seasl you fit it will still leak.
fixing this requires engine stripping
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