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 bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 09:10 PM |
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help before engine build
Building a mild 1916. engle 120 cam, ported heads, dual 36 dells, counter weight crank, balanced con rods, balanced flywheel but not lightened. is
there anything that i should look for that isn't normal when building a stock engine? im using an old case thats been machined, flycut around where
the barrels go in, ground out where the crank goes in and clearanced for the rods, even though i don't need it. i wanna get an idea of anything thats
different to normal so i can be ready for it. any help would be appreciated. cheers
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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 Bizarre
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 09:19 PM |
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I take it you have already got all the right bearings? Line bored the case? Cut for #1 bearing?
cc the heads maybe to work out your compression ratio once you know your deck height?
Maybe do a mock up so as you can measure deck height
Futue te ipsum!!!
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 09:22 PM |
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all the case stuff has been done, ill do the ccs and the deck hight when i put them together. i was meaning stuff like, different size rods or
anything. i got told that old rover V8 rods can be used and make the engine alot smoother cause they are slightly longer but then you gotta maching
the crank to fit. any tricks that make the engine last longer or run smoother or quicker. just the little things i might have over looked??
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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Bizarre
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 09:29 PM |
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You can offset grind your crank to suit Chev rods
This gives you a "sort" of stroker.
Jak Riz was running this set up.
A 90.5 become 1880 instead of 1776 and i think a 1916 become a 2020
Lot of work though
Longer rods are only going to give deck height problems and or spaces etc etc.
The beauty of 1916 is its simplicity.
What about some mild head work?
3 angle valve grind maybe?
Futue te ipsum!!!
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 09:35 PM |
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i got the heads off a guy who said they had 1200 dollars of work done to them, i think by vforce cause it was one of their customers. il be going to a
set of 044s once i get the money anyway. i have just heard some things about 1916s, that like they are really unreliable unless you get brand new
cases and stuff like that. are they just the same as a stock engine, by theory, but bigger??
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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Bizarre
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 09:47 PM |
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pretty much
cc's itself wont make that much power
It is cam, heads, exhaust and carbs that really do it.
Reliability is in checking things are bolted but to the right torque, rings installed properly, rocker set correctly and stuff like that.
Setting end play is a priority.
There is some that say the best case is a 8mm stud case with case savers.
I would "guess" that a 10mm studded case and no case savers might be troubel with a 1916 that had hi CR and built poorly
Pretty sure i know the heads you are talking about
Futue te ipsum!!!
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 09:51 PM |
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i think the main restriction is gonna be the heads and carbies. if i get the carbies choked out abit and stuff should be better. the cam i think would
be a problem :P its nice and big for a street car. good thing with heads is they aren't hard to change  i just want it to be reliable but at the same time im young so i want it to be quick. need to blast
commonwhores easily, i hope
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:01 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajaben
i have just heard some things about 1916s, that like they are really unreliable unless you get brand new cases and stuff like that. are they just the
same as a stock engine, by theory, but bigger??
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Well Stan Pobjoy has built close to 2000 1916cc engines, using old cases, new cases, and aftermarket cases. They have warranties and are used for
motor racing,street,strip.........1916's have more than proven themselves as reliable combo (well pobjoy ones have). You won't have any problems
with the combination of 69mm stroke and 94mm bore..................where reliability problems may occur is with the quality of the parts used and the
ability of the person building it.
People who think they are unreliable CAN'T build them.
As for Heads, the base Pobjoy 1916 runs standard 040 heads (standard valve size and unported), and they run High 15's in the 1/4 mile.
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:05 PM |
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so with the heads i got, even if they are a little better than stock i should be looking into the 15s? i like that. so a set of 044s would help when i
get the money. is the engle 120 cam gonna be a little to wild for the street or will it be fine? and should i lighten the flywheel or isn't it really
gonna be worth it for a daily driver?
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:17 PM |
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Engle 120 will be fine for the street............ far more aggressive cams out there on the street, and I would leave the flywheel standard (eight
dowel the crank and flywheel) for a daily driver.
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:18 PM |
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Alright sweet as. the stock vw clutch will hold it together won't it? or should i get a kombi clutch? or go a stage one kennedy one? thanks for all
the help
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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VWCOOL
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:23 PM |
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Stock clutch will survive - as long as you have the right 'stock' clutch
Pay your debts, CxxT
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:25 PM |
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i have got one of the better ones. is there anyone with figures of an engine similar to this one so i can have a general ball park figure of times and
power it should have.
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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VWCOOL
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:34 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajaben
i have got one of the better ones. is there anyone with figures of an engine similar to this one so i can have a general ball park figure of times and
power it should have.
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Hmmmm... 85hp at the wheels and a bit quicker to 100 than most P-plated VNs
And the dude who machined your case shoulda already done the deck height etc etc
[ Edited on 9-5-2006 by VWCOOL ]
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:35 PM |
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Re clutch: As long as the flywheel has been machined to increase the pressure of the stock clutch it will hold fine.If you are running larger dia
wheels it may be worth while fitting a stage one kennedy(but not mandatary!)
[ Edited on 9-5-2006 by Craig Torrens ]
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:38 PM |
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sweet. so probably should be crazy off the line then. i got a 1776 stock internals lightened flywheel and single weber and it launches like crazy off
the line. cheers for the help. ill put picks up when the build starts. oh and how fast would a vn be to 100?? like 8 sec?
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:43 PM |
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bloody hoon:beer
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:46 PM |
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im not a hoon i just like the look on commonwhore drivers faces when they get beaten by a beetle. its worth it. i know alot of people in vl non turbo
autos who give me shit about it being a beelte so i wanna beat them by as much as possible then tell them its just a beetle :P
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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VWCOOL
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:47 PM |
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lol... yeah, a bit under 8 sec from memory. Duzzent matter coz the VW will be quicker across the intersection! :vader
Pay your debts, CxxT
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 10:51 PM |
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im hoping that it will be quicker than alot of things to about 60. i love turbo lag, gives us n/a guys a change :P
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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VWCOOL
23 Windows of Awesome
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| posted on May 9th, 2006 at 11:26 PM |
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you mean 'chance'!!
Pay your debts, CxxT
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bond
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| posted on May 10th, 2006 at 08:59 AM |
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lighten the flywheel?
nick
and possibly 10mm studs?
[ Edited on 9-5-2006 by bond ]
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bat69
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| posted on May 10th, 2006 at 11:35 AM |
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The engine in my race car is a Pobjoy 1916cc 25000klm Warrenty Street Streriods engine. I have never had any problems with my engine. It gets driven
on the road in historics and it won me a state hillclimb championship and I have never had a problem. Just asked Greg Ward. He has driven his 1916 all
around Australia, raced it and driven home and he also never had a problem. I hope that helps.
White Knuckle Racing Team
"Drive it like dirt"
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 10th, 2006 at 11:38 AM |
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im running stock dia wheels but they are a bit wider than normal. about 225 from memory if not a little wider. maybe 255? i dunno about 8 inchs
anyway. how do you machine the flywheel to increase clutch pressure? i think lightening it with the 120 and being a road car might make it a bit to
jumpy.
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 10th, 2006 at 11:40 AM |
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cheers for that info what specs is your 1916 bat? do you have any dyno
sheets or 0-100 times? i know i wouldn't haha never do anything official.
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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bat69
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| posted on May 10th, 2006 at 02:53 PM |
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Its an off the shelf Pobjoy Street Steriods with PJ counter weighted crank, 044 heads (35mm ex and 40mm in), PJ steriods cam, 44 IDF webbers and
standard weight flywheel. Its very competetive and reliable for what I use it for. The best person to talk to about specs on PJ engines is Stan
himself. Give him a call.
White Knuckle Racing Team
"Drive it like dirt"
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 10th, 2006 at 07:21 PM |
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good news heads and case are at the engineers getting opened up to fit
in the 94s the combustion chambers on the heads have already been done
so don't need to be done. the case halves are being machined to fit together better and the place for the crank bearings has already been machined so
its all in the works. pics will be up when i get them back. i have been quoted 350 for all the work to be done. so i think thats reasonable
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
Scirocco Rare
6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Posts: 8040
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Location: Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Time to go Salt lake racing, and actually achieve a result.
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| posted on May 10th, 2006 at 09:59 PM |
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Stan Pobjoy prices: Machine cases for 94=$122
Machine heads for 94=$110
Line bore the case=$99
Total=$331
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Bizarre
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| posted on May 10th, 2006 at 10:26 PM |
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Does the line bore include for thrust cutting #1???
Futue te ipsum!!!
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bajaben
A.k.a.: Ben Alderson
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| posted on May 11th, 2006 at 01:18 AM |
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yeah but he is an expert and this guy is a normal engineer and i live like about 2000km away haha
[ Edited on 10/5/2006 by bajaben ]
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
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