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Author: Subject: Stripping paint and crap off a pan
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posted on April 24th, 2003 at 07:36 AM
Stripping paint and crap off a pan


Got a question for all the assembled more experienced folk.
I have stripped my pan down to basics (ie: nothing attached) and want it taken back so I can repaint it (with POR15). It has some rust in the tunnel that I can see, and the bit that I can reach is where it looks worst, but is only surface rust.
Now my two options are;
a. Chemical dip, or
b. Sand blasting.
Chemical dip will do the entire pan, inlcuding removing the rust (and the paint from the inside of the tunnel), while b, (so I have been told by the operator) will not go down the tunnel, therefore will not touch the rust).
What would you all recommend?

[Edited on 23-4-2003 by penguin]




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posted on April 24th, 2003 at 07:42 AM


Mate just get the underside sand blasted n paint it pretty as no one sees the inside unless you dont run carpets.

too many hidden holes to chemically strip the chassis and VW used some great seam sealer which will last forever.




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posted on April 24th, 2003 at 08:10 AM
Blasting


So you reckon blasting, and just the underside? I was thinking of getting the top done as the tar paper/tiles are torn and ragged. I want to be able to put new ones down, and try to sound proof this thing as best as possible. I have been told that ovals are bloody noisy.



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posted on April 24th, 2003 at 08:32 AM


Another method is a wire wheel on an angle grider. Worked well for me.



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posted on April 24th, 2003 at 08:33 AM


yeah OK then do the top... only to clean the residue off... scrap the old tar crap with a paint scraper otherwisae it will take twice as long.. cause it flexiable.

I found that rubber underlay for carpet is pretty good as a sound deadner dont glue it down so it makes cleaning easier




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posted on April 24th, 2003 at 09:22 AM
Cool


Okay then, so blasting it is. The underside and the tunnel (top of). Not too excited about a wire brush option (too lazy, far too lazy), I think watching someone else (or even not watching) do it is easier, and at least I know it'll be clean.
The POR15 I can get locally, in fact I may buy some today on the way home from work, so I can put it down pretty much straight away.
I'll put new tiles on the tunnel top, thanks for the tip with the rubber mats though, I'll leave them loose under the carpet. Did you mean underlay, like for normal carpet? or the rubber insulating mats you can get around the place?
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posted on April 24th, 2003 at 09:37 AM


The underlay Dunlop Brand its white and smooth both sides about 8 mm think or so.

go along to yr local carpet shop n see what they have not the stuff with the bumps in it... and dont glue it




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posted on April 24th, 2003 at 10:12 AM
Underlay


Cool,
will take a look there. I have a Clarke rubber near me as well, so they may yield results as well.




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posted on April 24th, 2003 at 02:00 PM


I had to scrape the stuff off the top of the pan with a paint scraper. Man that was hard work. I had surface rust getting slowly worse under the stock tiles.

I tried sand blasting the underside, but the fish oil / body deadener layer I had under there seemed impervious to conventional weapons. The sand blaster got some off, but not all. My compressor must not have had enough power. So I resorted to the wire brush wheel on the grinder to finish things off.

I hammertoned the underside of the pan, which seems to be holding up very well considering the offroad abuse and scraping on the ground.

The top side I put heaps of coats of kill rust, followed by thick body deadener. Then I got automotive carpet underlay with marine carpet on top. not glued.




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posted on April 24th, 2003 at 04:43 PM
Pan


Yeap,
wwell I have booked the pan in at the blasters for next week. I drop it off Thursday and pick it up (hopefully) friday afternoon. In which case I can take it home and coat the underside with one coat of POR15 straight away. That way i can flip it over on Saturday/Sunday and give the top a coat and try to reach as far down the tunnel as I can to coat all the metal down there.
After a coat or two of the POR, I plan on using some sound deadener (not sure which yet, there is some really funky gear floating about). Replace the tiles on the tunnel, I have been told that they are really good for killing vibration and noise anyway. After all that, then I will get some underlay (thanks Dave) and cut it to shape, and hopefully await the body to get its cancer cut by the surgeons (panel beater).




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