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posted on February 6th, 2007 at 03:56 PM
Engine rebuild questions
Hey all.
now the block is completely appart i'm trying to work out how to put it back together again. Seeing as its the first time i've ever done it, I'm in
need of some advice. its a 1600tp from the '71 super.
I would like to get a bit more power out if it, but no need for anything stupid.
I was thinking about adding a oil filter, and maybe even a remote cooler to, depending on if its required. As i was reading up on all this I noticed
that a late 71 onwards have a larger oil pump which is coupled with a different camshaft to match. Is it worth getting one of these larger pumps or
will the current one suffice.
Also what parts need to be machined and how do I work out if they need to be or not?
How do i work out what size bearings for the crank and cam to get?
How hard is it to stroke the engine at this stage. I'm trying to work it out myself but it seems to spiral out of control money and hassel wise.
Again its only to get a little extra grunt out of it. a few more cc's
Is it worth getting the stock flywheel lightened at this stage?
And is there anything else i should be thinking about?
Pheww, reckon that should do it for now. Cheers fellas
PurpleT3
Fahrvergnugen
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posted on February 6th, 2007 at 04:31 PM
First - How much do you want to spend?
My suggestions are:
1) Take your crank, cam, block and lifters to an expert engine machinist. They will machine all the parts to spec and will also sell you the correct
bearings.
2) For a little more grunt, use 87mmm pistons and barrels.
3) Don't bother with a remote cooler or lightened flywheel at this stage, save mone for the essentials.
4) If you need a new oil pump, you may as well get the larger one with the cam to suit. Otherwise, just blueprint your original pump.
4) Stroking adds dollars very fast.
5) Remember that to use the bigger capacity you need bigger carbs and a better exhaust.
Just to give you an idea, I recently rebuilt a stock 1600DP. Did all the disassembly and reassembly myself. Reused the heads and P&B. Had the crank
reground and the case line bored. All up, with a new clutch and pressure plate it cost around $600. I would suggest you spend $35 and buy http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Volkswagen-air-Cooled-Engine-models/dp/08958622... before you go any further. It tells
you all you need to know.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
Bizarre
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The artist formerly known as blue74l
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posted on February 6th, 2007 at 07:33 PM
My 2c
the motor i am running now is a 1916
BUT... it is stock rejetted Pict 34 and one of the staino stock header exhausts.
A mild cam and 94 piston and barrels.
Nothing else.
But it has added 25 -30% more power over any stock 1600 that i have seen dynoed.
No dual carbs - no ill fitting headers - no high compression ratios
Very happy with it
My mate has a 1776 built very similar except it has the CB electronic ignition.
Both are VERY drivable cars that are true dail drivers.
Both were about $500 dearer than a "decent" stock rebuild
Futue te ipsum!!!
VWCOOL
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posted on February 6th, 2007 at 08:32 PM
If it's your first engine, keep it stock: 'stock' stock, not a few bits added. Play later.
