Posts: 137
Threads: 43
Registered: May 16th, 2005
Member Is Offline
Location: PERTH Western Australia
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
posted on May 8th, 2007 at 06:11 PM
Front End Help needed
Hi, I'm chasing the know how to remove or alter the torsion leaves in the front torsion, so I may be able to run coil overs. Do I cut out the centre
retainer? Help would be appreciated. Thanks Mike
xornge666x
Wolfsburg Wizard
Posts: 460
Threads: 15
Registered: September 17th, 2006
Member Is Offline
Location: Providence RI, USA / Melb OZ
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: agnostic
posted on May 11th, 2007 at 01:38 PM
I would use a piece of steel square stock, the same size as the leaves stacks, and remove the centre locator from the 2 beam tubes. You would weld in
a piece of tube in the place of the removed sections.
Then drill the indents in the steel stock for the grub screws to keep the trailing arms in place.
Hope it helps...
tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
Custom Title Time!
That really hurts doesnt it!
Posts: 1171
Threads: 25
Registered: September 21st, 2003
Member Is Offline
Location: Huon Valley SouthernTasmania
Theme: UltimaBB Psyche Blue
Mood: Moody!
posted on May 12th, 2007 at 10:32 AM
Stock thing to do with an older LP beam in Formula Vees.
As an aside, the later BJ beam retains one entire spring pack in the upper tube and that is still not stiff enough whereas we remove at least 3 full
leaves from the LP beam.
We simply remove the unwanted sections of leaves from between the turkey legs at each end and the centre spring retainer and the remaining bits of
leaves are tack welded back to the spring pack.
Grind chamfers onto the outside leaf "packers' to allow for easier inserting into the centre retainer.
If you want to remove the spring leaves altogether, which is what we do on the bottom tube of the Vee beam, you can replace that with whatever sized
solid bar you like but remember, that solid bar becomes a swaybar.
Double that if you remove both spring packs
If you remove the centre retainer, you can insert steel tube (up to the inside dia of the beam tubing if your brave) with square ends welded to pick
up in the turkey legs up to the inside diameter of the beam tube.
I cant remeber now but there is a mathematical formula to convert the rotational stiffness of solid bar to tubing, factoring in the wall thickness of
the tube as well.
We use almost anything for the swaybar material, even mild steel works, as the amount of opposite rotation of the turkey legs does not exceed the
"springing" limit of the mild steel material where it will actually take a permanent "set" but this is in fairly limited travel and lightweight
road race car.
I usually make my own rollbars out of properly heat treated "spring" steel from a spring works (not expensive at all) and then weld on the square
ends to locate into the turkey legs. This wire is available in plenty of diameters if you want to experiment with different rate swaybars.
Lolts of things to consider for you M8.
Best of luck!
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
