| [ Total Views: 17225 | Total Replies: 116 | Thread Id: 67945 ] |
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 Bugaru03
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| posted on March 9th, 2008 at 02:13 AM |
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Bugaru project
Good afternoon all,
I'm new in the forum and i feel very glad to find you.
My project is a super 1303 with EJ20NA JDM SOHC suby engine with many porsche goodies and other performance parts.
  
The electrician have done the wiring fitment with the stock ECU,radiator is fitted at the front and working with no problems,temperature is
good,but.....
always there is but....and here it is:
when the engine starts (cold) it rev's around 6500rpm with no problem(the torque is amazing!!!)but when the heat reach 70celcius it cannot pass
3000rmps!
It seems that the ECU turns the motor in safe mode but i dont know WHY???
I have built a new custom exhaust and the sensor has been added here
 
Please advice because I'm really desparate
Thanks in advance
Jim
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mackaymanx
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| posted on March 9th, 2008 at 08:02 AM |
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Do you have a speed sensor?
Do you have the heater hoses looped or blocked?
I presume the last photo is your o2 sensor
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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555bug
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| posted on March 9th, 2008 at 08:14 AM |
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hey mate nice ride  quick question for you where did you get your sump?
In relation to your issues have you tried to get the error code from the ecu? this will assist you in diagnosing the issue. If you don't have the
service manual I can probably sort you out.
Stephen
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Baja Wes
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| posted on March 9th, 2008 at 09:40 AM |
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Is your temperature guage the Subaru unit, or an aftermarket unit? And is it using the Subaru temp sender, or an additional sender?
If it's a seperate sender your reading, then maybe there is a problem with the suby temp sender and it thinks it's hotter than it is. In that case
you'd notice it turning the fans on quite early.
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flat_iv
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| posted on March 9th, 2008 at 12:18 PM |
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Nice muffler. What type of muffler do you have or where did it come from?
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ratbug
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| posted on March 9th, 2008 at 12:47 PM |
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I was thinking of the speed sensor as well. Can you short the diagnosis connector and rig up a lamp up to see what code its faulting on?
The sump looks to be one of the bug@5speed sumps from Germany.
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OZ Towdster
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| posted on March 9th, 2008 at 04:56 PM |
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I'mm just a novis when it comes to these subie ecu's but i dought it has anything to do with the speed sensor as they will drive quite happily with
out these with the main symptom of no speed censor being that they will stall when stoping as the ecu cannot map quickly enough when sudenly back at
idle as opposed to knowing it is going to stop via the speed sensor . Sorry for the dribble on but hey its hard to explain.
I would be more inclined to look at what Baja Wes suggested and also set up the engine light permantly as it will save you many hours of head
scratching and alert you to any fault at any time which depending on what fault can save you quite a few dollars etc even if its just in time alone ie
: being able to tell your mechanic or helper what it did or code etc.
By the way Jim nice car and where are you in this big old world of ours mate
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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supa74
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| posted on March 10th, 2008 at 04:00 AM |
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i agree with Flat - nice muffler. looks to be custom made, ???
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ratbug
A.k.a.: Andrew Todd
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| posted on March 10th, 2008 at 08:52 AM |
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Yeah i'm only going off my experience with the speed sensor. I have the sensor driven off the front wheels using the original speedo cable.
Everything was fine until I went to get it dyno tuned (on the dyno the front wheels don't turn). It apparently did one and a bit runs and then the
dyno operator said the ECU light came on, and then he couldnt get any power out of it and that it was cutting out. I then had to drive it home and it
wouldnt rev past 3000rpm and was severely down on power. Got home, shorted the diagnosis connector and it flashed the speed sensor signal. Reset the
ECU and then it was all good again.
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rocknrob
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| posted on March 10th, 2008 at 04:49 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by OZ Towdster
I'mm just a novis when it comes to these subie ecu's but i dought it has anything to do with the speed sensor as they will drive quite happily with
out these with the main symptom of no speed censor being that they will stall when stoping as the ecu cannot map quickly enough when sudenly back at
idle as opposed to knowing it is going to stop via the speed sensor . Sorry for the dribble on but hey its hard to explain
Ahhh! that explains occasional cutting out at the lights
I'll hook up the speed sensor one day but meantime i'm in the habit of a light foot on the pedal til its idling nice
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Bugaru03
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| posted on March 10th, 2008 at 07:48 PM |
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Folks,thanks for your kind words, this gives me the motive to continue the hard work and keep patient for any unexpected issues!
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Nice muffler. What type of muffler do you have or where did it come from?
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The exhaust is custom maded by a machine shop in Greece!The decision of the final header is mine because i love the Boxter style finishing.
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quick question for you where did you get your sump?
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The sump is from Martins shop(Bug5atspeed) in Germany with very good quality and good clearance.
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Is your temperature guage the Subaru unit, or an aftermarket unit? And is it using the Subaru temp sender, or an additional sender?
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It's definetely not a subaru unit but I don't remember it.
The temp sender is the Subaru one.
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Do you have a speed sensor?
Do you have the heater hoses looped or blocked?
I presume the last photo is your o2 sensor
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No I dont have a speed sensor.Can I by-pass it or do I have to buy a new one?
Yes the last photo shows the o2 sensor.
What do you mean looped or blocked?
I will try this week to run a test from the OBD slot in order to see what is the wrong code.
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OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
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| posted on March 10th, 2008 at 08:53 PM |
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What they mean by looped or blocked is this.
Looped ~ This is the way you should have it set up and is as follows , basicully you as suggested loop or join your two heater pipes at the engine
together with a pipe or hose etc so as water can continually flow through the system which in tern also controls your thermastat.
Blocked ~ This of coarse is the oposite inthat you have the two heater lines from your motor blocked of seperatley which in tern will cause massive
overheating problems through not being able to control the thermastat.
Hope this helps explain things for now .
We all await your findings so we can all help a fellow dubber
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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mackaymanx
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| posted on March 10th, 2008 at 09:07 PM |
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Sounds like a speed sensor problem, I would suggest a VDO one as you are in Europe. I try and find the right part number for you.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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mackaymanx
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| posted on March 10th, 2008 at 09:31 PM |
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Have to check further but I think this is it,
Universal cut cable VDO 412.009 2.7mm sq
Inline suit Volvo,VW Seat, etc VDO 340.803 2.7mm sq
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on March 10th, 2008 at 10:36 PM |
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Hi
That's the one I was told to buy, it comes with all sorts of adaptors etc for different cables and threads.
Steve
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on March 11th, 2008 at 08:09 AM |
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Hi
The subject of VSS is being discussed on GermanLook here http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=5952 with some very useful information.
Steve
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71EJVan
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| posted on March 11th, 2008 at 07:37 PM |
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Brantz also make a VSS that screws on the back of the speedo. I got one from Don Barrow rally equipment in the UK.
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
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Bugaru03
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| posted on March 11th, 2008 at 10:20 PM |
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Thank you quys for all your advices and posts!!
I have found a local shop called Brantz rallymeters as 71EJVan advised me but i was wondering which of them i have to use??
Universal speedcable sensor
or this
Japanesse Gearbox
Price is 50euros.
Thanks in advance,
Jim
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VWCOOL
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| posted on March 12th, 2008 at 05:24 AM |
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You will need to use the 'speedo cable' one as the VW gearbox does not have a speedo output/drive to fit the 'Japanese' type
Pay your debts, CxxT
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ElusiveStranger
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| posted on March 12th, 2008 at 09:44 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by VWCOOL
You will need to use the 'speedo cable' one as the VW gearbox does not have a speedo output/drive to fit the 'Japanese' type
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No you don't. If the gearbox one is M18 x 1.25 thread.
They are 4 pulse per revolution, suppled by 12V, pulses are 5V. (Same spec as a Scooby one)
I've now been running mine for 18mths.
You may have to shorten the speedo cable outer by approx 1" (25mm) to make it fit.
I also had to very slightly file one end of the VSS brass drive.
Here's a link with photos to my effort:
http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?t=446
Edit: You want the FORD / GM one, not the Japanese
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VWCOOL
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| posted on March 12th, 2008 at 10:21 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ElusiveStranger
| Quote: | Originally
posted by VWCOOL
You will need to use the 'speedo cable' one as the VW gearbox does not have a speedo output/drive to fit the 'Japanese' type
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No you don't. If the gearbox one is M18 x 1.25 thread.
They are 4 pulse per revolution, suppled by 12V, pulses are 5V. (Same spec as a Scooby one)
I've now been running mine for 18mths.
You may have to shorten the speedo cable outer by approx 1" (25mm) to make it fit.
I also had to very slightly file one end of the VSS brass drive.
Here's a link with photos to my effort:
http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?t=446
Edit: You want the FORD / GM one, not the Japanese
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EDIT!
Ah - my mistake: I didn't see the 'Japanese' one here was double ended; it looked like a conventional gearbox-mounted OE-style VSS, not an inline
one
With screw-in mounting, would be the pick assuming its outout is compatible with what the Subaru PCM wants to 'see'
Pay your debts, CxxT
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gazman
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| posted on March 12th, 2008 at 11:40 AM |
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We have a similar setup to Elusive Stranger on the V6 bus, works well although our vss was custom made by V6 Conversions.
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ElusiveStranger
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| posted on March 13th, 2008 at 01:22 AM |
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| Quote: |
EDIT!
Ah - my mistake: I didn't see the 'Japanese' one here was double ended; it looked like a conventional gearbox-mounted OE-style VSS, not an inline
one
With screw-in mounting, would be the pick assuming its outout is compatible with what the Subaru PCM wants to 'see'
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Just to confirm, the Brantz Ford/GM VSS is the correct thread for T1 and T2 speedo drives
The Brantz Japanese VSS uses a larger thread size.
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Dero
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| posted on March 13th, 2008 at 01:53 AM |
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Nice thread! Oh love the sump, mine is coming in the next week or so 
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Bugaru03
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| posted on March 13th, 2008 at 11:44 PM |
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Update..
The electrician remembers that the wiring loom does not have an OBD slot and he tells me that he will try to find a 14pin slot in order to take signal
from the diagnostic machine.
Then we will be able to see if the problem is the VSS or the O2 sensor or something else..
Does anyone have a diagram of what to expect in error codes from the ECU?
Thanks in advance,
Jim
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mackaymanx
A.k.a.: Brent
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| posted on March 14th, 2008 at 11:13 AM |
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http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-codes.com/Subaru%20OBD1%20Decoder.htm
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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Bugaru03
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| posted on March 14th, 2008 at 07:51 PM |
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Thanks mate!
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71EJVan
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| posted on March 15th, 2008 at 09:00 PM |
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BTW the Brantz model I have is BR04, Fits nicely on the back of the kombi speedo.
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
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Bugaru03
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| posted on March 18th, 2008 at 03:37 AM |
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Thanks in advance for you help!
Let's see how it will goes..
Rgrds,
Jim
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Bugaru03
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| posted on March 20th, 2008 at 10:29 PM |
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This weekend I have planned to change the rear inner & outer urethane bushings and also to replace the front sway bar with a new one and a camber
kit++.
Finally we drop the rear and the result is awesome.
Next step is to adapt rear spacers with longer wheel studs!
I hope by the end of next week to solve the ECU problem..and then to enjoy quick rides!
stay tuned for more..
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