| [ Total Views: 675 | Total Replies: 11 | Thread Id: 68182 ] |
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 StenGuns
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| posted on March 23rd, 2008 at 12:23 PM |
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What hardware am I missing to mount body to beam?
In my resto thread, I have just put the body back onto the pan,.. I'm still a little stumped as to what hardware I am missing to fix the two body
points onto the front beam..
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=64212&page=3#pid637684
I'm guessing the rubber shockpads go "between" the beam and the body hard points.. But what then bolts down to the beam?.. Is it just a bolt with
square/spacer washer? I have some "pan" type spacers remaining which I thought were for the fuel tank.. Maybe these are to bolt down here?..
It's no biggy as I'm sure I'll figure it out but does anyone have advice as to what goes here? Pix would be nice..
I'm thinking that this piece (which I thought was for the tank) is the one that sits in here..
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on March 23rd, 2008 at 12:34 PM |
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they're the ones, middle of second row, big rubber goes under there too
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on March 23rd, 2008 at 12:39 PM |
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yes thats right, you use the rectangle like washer with a rubber spacer/pad under it.
So the order is 1.Beam 2. rubber spacer (shock pad) 3. body shell 4. rubber spacer (same as beam) 5. square washer 6. high tensile
bolt
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StenGuns
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| posted on March 23rd, 2008 at 01:19 PM |
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OK.. I didn't realise you needed two shock pads for each side.. Makes sense
Thanks Gents
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VWCOOL
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| posted on March 23rd, 2008 at 01:21 PM |
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You will probably need to loosen and drop the beam an inch or three to install the underside rubber pads; can't quite see if you have already
installed them
Pay your debts, CxxT
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on March 23rd, 2008 at 01:34 PM |
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Hi
Make sure you keep the square washer straight with screwdriver when tightening, otherwise it will cock and rub on the body support and make a
noise.
Steve
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StenGuns
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| posted on March 23rd, 2008 at 02:08 PM |
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Nothings more than finger tight at this stage so we can slip the rubbers on.. thanks
| Quote: | Originally
posted by VWCOOL
You will probably need to loosen and drop the beam an inch or three to install the underside rubber pads; can't quite see if you have already
installed them
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StenGuns
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| posted on March 23rd, 2008 at 02:09 PM |
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Cheers
| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi
Make sure you keep the square washer straight with screwdriver when tightening, otherwise it will cock and rub on the body support and make a
noise.
Steve
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 matberry
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| posted on March 23rd, 2008 at 02:35 PM |
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Also the thickness of the first rubber can be adjusted to alter the A pillar/door alignment.
This is a factory vw spec.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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StenGuns
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| posted on March 23rd, 2008 at 03:17 PM |
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Sorry, I don't get that bit.. How do I find out more?
| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
Also the thickness of the first rubber can be adjusted to alter the A pillar/door alignment.
This is a factory vw spec.
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VWCOOL
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| posted on March 23rd, 2008 at 06:08 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
Also the thickness of the first rubber can be adjusted to alter the A pillar/door alignment.
This is a factory vw spec.
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hey didn't know that, makes sense; I might 'jack' my beam to try and close up my door gaps - loose at top and tight at base of B pillar
Crash damage - I might need to 'winch' the car but I'll try that first
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on March 23rd, 2008 at 07:11 PM |
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I find that theory hard to believe.
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